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Old 01-28-2013, 03:02 AM   #15871
BuRPsa
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Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Xmoto - congrats, it looks the biz!
And now go change your avatar to a single then?


TJE, Welcome, and - you didn't expect anything else here did you? - you bought the best bike there is!
I'd start taking the carb off, apart and clean it - so you know it's not that. Floatlevel 19mm (not 18) will prevent pissing fuel when leant over. Also, on the lhs there's a small cover under which a spring & membrane lives, and the cover itself has a tiny hole/passage in it... block it, use a droplet of epoxy or silicon. This system leans off the mixture on overrun, and may be the cause of what you experience.
But, allow me to be thick, your bike is "un-corked", like in opened up? Scratch here using the search function if you dunno how to check, but this bit you need to do first in any case - and luckily for you that includes disassembly of the carb in any case (to change a few parts).
And, new2you means checking oilscreen(s), renewing oilfilter & checking/cleaning airfilter, fresh oil incl checking the oil-level - go read how the latter must be done first before you call me thick indeed
And read a lot here in this thread, you'll learn plenty which you must know about this bike.
Have fun doing all this, it's a grrreeaat bike!
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:08 AM   #15872
Lostsaffa
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJE View Post
Hey guys!

Noob here! Got a BRP this weekend and is well impressed with it. My other bike is an XVR750, so really enjoying the torque and the lightness of the XRR ...

I have one 'issue' that bugs me a bit ... when I let go of the gas in 1st or 2nd, and the engine starts to decelerate, it's really hard to smoothly pick up acceleration again. It's like it'll only catch on quick, giving a sudden yank, not a smooth pick up. I'm not talking about bringing it down to very low revs ... just engine breaking a bit.

Does that make sense? Since this is my first thumper, I have no idea if this normal?

The same seems to happens when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. Very hard to do it smoothly, unless I rev 1st gear a bit more than I would think is necessary.

Thanks in advance!

/Thomas
If you are not used to dirt bikes, which don't have Cush drives like road bikes it does seem like they jerk when tapping on and off the throttle, especially a beast single like the XR650R. It may be something like Burpsa suggests, but could also just be because these types of bikes are new to you.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:15 AM   #15873
Xmoto
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Can someone tell me if a front wheel from a XR650L will fit a R.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:16 AM   #15874
Xmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Xmoto - congrats, it looks the biz!
And now go change your avatar to a single then?
Thanks. I still have a twin also .
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:24 AM   #15875
RideFreak
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: County Lockup, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
Mur, I was lucky enough to have a local guy in Texas powdercoat them for me, but he is no longer doing this. He was a true artist!
Buell, I like the red!

Powdercoating is def the way to go if you want a decent rehab of the cases, I just finished building an XR4 and had the cases done in a flat black satin powdercoat, it ran about $100 which is pricey bit it really made the bike look better (I painted in the lettering to add a little bling )

Sand out any scratches before taking it to them and make sure you wash out everything very well afterwards, they have to bead blast the parts prior to the PC and there will probably be some silicate left on the internals.

crappy phone picture.





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Old 01-28-2013, 06:10 AM   #15876
jules083
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Location: Richmond, Ohio
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Ridefreak, that bike is sweet.


I'm finally getting around to my winter maintenance, planning on a rear suspension grease/check, remove the lowering block and restore factory height, fork rebuild, grease steering stem bearings. Motor shouldn't need touched at this point, just a valve check and oil change.

For the guys with the 'left' rear fender, How'd you fix it? It's more of an annoyance than anything, but on mine the tire rubs on the side of the fender and the muffler is shimmed out about 3/4". The goal is 'better' rather than 'perfect', but I'd accept perfect also. Pictures coming as soon I hope, internet is running slow today.

Any surprises I'm going to run into pulling the swingarm? I'm partway through making the swingarm tools, and have a shop manual. Just wondering if I'm going to run into something. As you all know the manual keeps talking about special tools that we don't have.

Grease- I normally use Mobil one synthetic, should I use something else? I've never heard good or bad about the mobil one, I just know we use it on some very expensive things at work. From my experiance things made for motorcycles are triple in price compared to similar automotive or industrial items but may not be any better quality,
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:55 AM   #15877
walkergreenlabel
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Oakville, ON
Oddometer: 184
petcock gasket

I thought i read on the thread where you can get a replacement gasket for the stock petcock. i did search but didnt find it. i think i need a new one. anyone know where to get one cheap? i would get the clarke petcock for $20 but its on/off only, no reserve. i would be stuck in the woods for sure if the reserve reminder wasnt there.
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:28 PM   #15878
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkergreenlabel View Post
I thought i read on the thread where you can get a replacement gasket for the stock petcock. i did search but didnt find it. i think i need a new one. anyone know where to get one cheap? i would get the clarke petcock for $20 but its on/off only, no reserve. i would be stuck in the woods for sure if the reserve reminder wasnt there.
I haven't been able to find the gasket only, ended up having to get a $45 OE petcock off e-bay from Honda of Toledo. I had a Clarke petcock on a Clarke tank, couldn't get it to seal along the edge for anything, I tried a making a gasket, different sized orings, fuel sealant goop, go figure. I replaced it with the new OE unit and it sealed up fine right off the bat so I'll sell ya a Clarke petcock cheap
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:30 PM   #15879
Xmoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Schodack,NY
Oddometer: 2,107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmoto View Post
Can someone tell me if a front wheel from a XR650L will fit a R.
After doing a little reading I see This question is asked a lot. Looks like no, different axle sizes.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:16 AM   #15880
TJE
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Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
TJE, Welcome, and - you didn't expect anything else here did you? - you bought the best bike there is!
I'd start taking the carb off, apart and clean it - so you know it's not that. Floatlevel 19mm (not 18) will prevent pissing fuel when leant over. Also, on the lhs there's a small cover under which a spring & membrane lives, and the cover itself has a tiny hole/passage in it... block it, use a droplet of epoxy or silicon. This system leans off the mixture on overrun, and may be the cause of what you experience.
But, allow me to be thick, your bike is "un-corked", like in opened up? Scratch here using the search function if you dunno how to check, but this bit you need to do first in any case - and luckily for you that includes disassembly of the carb in any case (to change a few parts).
And, new2you means checking oilscreen(s), renewing oilfilter & checking/cleaning airfilter, fresh oil incl checking the oil-level - go read how the latter must be done first before you call me thick indeed
And read a lot here in this thread, you'll learn plenty which you must know about this bike.
Have fun doing all this, it's a grrreeaat bike!
Many many thanks, RideFreak, BuRPsa and Lostsaffa!!! I should have given a bit of background on the bike. Sorry about that. It's gone 11k km, and is indeed uncorked. It also has a new carb (original) and standard jetting. Exhaust is standard, and there's a 4.6 gallon IMS tank on it. She's been very well kept, and had most other things like cables, handlebars, pegs, airfilter replaced. Oils been replaced every 1000km, and she has a non-standard ratio sprockets.

One issue I forgot to mention, and which may also be due to my inexperience with big thumpers, is a metallic clanking noise coming from the cylinder area. I'm thinking valves or a loose bolt, but then again, I'm not even sure I know what bad valves sound like. Best description would be a metallic rattle, like something is loose, but I can't find anything loose. Judging by some youtube clips of other XRR's, it does indeed sound different. Doesn't sound like it's coming from the clutch area, but I need to check again to make sure.

She really pulls very well, but then again, I don't know what standard is, and my AT is certainly nothing to compare by!

I think I'll make a video and try to catch the rattling noise, and post here.

Thanks again, much appreciated!
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TJE screwed with this post 01-29-2013 at 01:30 AM Reason: new info
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:47 AM   #15881
BuRPsa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Grease- I normally use Mobil one synthetic, should I use something else?
"Normal" greases will dissolve in water, and it is for this reason why I use 'water-resistant' grease. A 1Kg jar lasts a long time when used for wheelbearings, swingarm & wheel axles, steering stem etc, and by all means fill any handlebar-switchgear with it too.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:05 AM   #15882
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
Oddometer: 1,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmoto View Post
After doing a little reading I see This question is asked a lot. Looks like no, different axle sizes.
My understanding was that the xr650l/xr600r front wheel will fit with a bearing change. I know that nx250 front wheels do fit with a bearing change. I have a cbr900r front rim on my bike with a ....bearing change. If you check the bearing OD spec of different wheels you can figure out if the wheel can be made to fit. A spacer may be needed but spacers are pretty straightforward.

It is probably easier to just fit a R wheel as they run close to the same price.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:07 AM   #15883
supernick
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Location: Moscow, Russia
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It is the Russian Houston. Near the space center.

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Old 01-29-2013, 10:26 AM   #15884
stuntheavy
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Tejas
Oddometer: 150
What kind of range are you guys gettinf out of the 4.3-4.6gal tanks? I'm building a bike for the TAT.

Think its doable? Or should I go for the 7?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:07 AM   #15885
Shibby!
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Currently - Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuntheavy View Post
What kind of range are you guys gettinf out of the 4.3-4.6gal tanks? I'm building a bike for the TAT.

Think its doable? Or should I go for the 7?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Donno about the TAT, but the 4.3 has issues with the CDT.

My 6.3 handles better then my 4.3 almost all the time. No comparison. I love the Acerbis better than my 4.3, which sits on a shelf..
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