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Old 02-17-2013, 12:14 PM   #16066
Mur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXRaziel View Post
Bad news , decided to adjust the chain for the first time today , i knew about the problems otheres have had with the adjustment screws , and did loads of soaking with release oil in preparation for the operation (started weeks in advance ) , did the right side , cleaned and lubed , moved to the left side , it felt siezed , i was carefull but the left side screw snapped i am so angry , the design its flawed so badly , even if you know about the problem ,



if the screw rusted from inside you are fu..ed , more farkling neded and not enough time
I feel your pain. I had to put helicoils in mine, when I first got my bike.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:34 PM   #16067
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What Timing!
Did mine today on a fairly unmolested xrr I picked up in October and same deal. Right side workable and removed but drive side seized half way out. Lots of back and forth and kept getting tighter until no motion and twisting of the bolt was evident.

Out comes the drill and a well placed hole on top. Front end high in the air and fill the end of the swingarm with PB Blaster. Heat. Soak. Tap with hammer. repeat for two hours.
Finally backed it out with the help of a battery op impact driver using a back and forth until it would come all the way.

I will use the plugged hole I drilled to periodically shoot some wd or similar lubricant in and pay much more attention to these adjusters.

Hope this helps someone else. FYI had the snapped adjuster issue on an 05 crf. Same design. Still love me a Honda though
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:14 PM   #16068
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seasider View Post
What Timing!
Did mine today on a fairly unmolested xrr I picked up in October and same deal. Right side workable and removed but drive side seized half way out. Lots of back and forth and kept getting tighter until no motion and twisting of the bolt was evident.

Out comes the drill and a well placed hole on top. Front end high in the air and fill the end of the swingarm with PB Blaster. Heat. Soak. Tap with hammer. repeat for two hours.
Finally backed it out with the help of a battery op impact driver using a back and forth until it would come all the way.

I will use the plugged hole I drilled to periodically shoot some wd or similar lubricant in and pay much more attention to these adjusters.

Hope this helps someone else. FYI had the snapped adjuster issue on an 05 crf. Same design. Still love me a Honda though
What angers me is the fact that i knew about this problem and kept spraing it with WD40 since i got the bike , it was waste of time the fecker snapped anyway . , Shitty design , simple .
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:21 PM   #16069
Sean-0
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I do agree it's a bad design ....thoi have never had a problem ..wd40 would not be my choice

i use a never size past and it works well .. i do run 2 types o wheels so i do change them a bit ....but every time i do i wind them out and put the past on
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:13 PM   #16070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXRaziel View Post
What angers me is the fact that i knew about this problem and kept spraing it with WD40 since i got the bike , it was waste of time the fecker snapped anyway . , Shitty design , simple .
That's not exclusive to Honda, most modern dirt bikes have hollow swing arms, we all want light bikes, this is part of the price. All bikes that use a forward facing adj bolts that penitrate into the hollow area are susceptible to this problem. You need to fully remove and grease the bolt every time you remove the rear wheel and it will quit being a problem, takes all of 10 min. It really should be part of every dirtbike owner's normal maint routine.

Unfortunately WD40 is almost worthless for a alum2steel corrosion problem like the adjusters. Some folks drill drain holes, not sure if I agree with that as it adds another entrance point for water. Plain old grease seems to work very well.
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RideFreak screwed with this post 02-17-2013 at 06:50 PM
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:41 PM   #16071
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Someone once mentioned to me that you can remove the swing arm and then pour some ATF/acetone 50/50 mix into the swing arm from the topside. Let it sit a few hours. The fluid will soak thru the threads and then you can remove the adjuster bolt. Never tried it but sounds like it might work.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:43 PM   #16072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiko View Post
Someone once mentioned to me that you can remove the swing arm and then pour some ATF/acetone 50/50 mix into the swing arm from the topside. Let it sit a few hours. The fluid will soak thru the threads and then you can remove the adjuster bolt. Never tried it but sounds like it might work.

People's ATF and Acetone mix is used a penetrating fluid. I'm sure he could just spray it from the outside as well.

How come I'm the only one who never has this issue? Lol. I do anti seize them once and awhile.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:48 PM   #16073
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
How come I'm the only one who never has this issue? Lol. I do anti seize them once and awhile.
Shibby, you're not alone, we don't post when we successfully remove the adjuster only when someone breaks it off.

This should be a sticky.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:52 PM   #16074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiko View Post
Someone once mentioned to me that you can remove the swing arm and then pour some ATF/acetone 50/50 mix into the swing arm from the topside. Let it sit a few hours. The fluid will soak thru the threads and then you can remove the adjuster bolt. Never tried it but sounds like it might work.
Worked for me with penetrating oil. I let it soak overnight, came out the next day and it came out easy.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:20 AM   #16075
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This stuff works very good. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...usemilkoil.php
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:03 AM   #16076
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
That's not exclusive to Honda, most modern dirt bikes have hollow swing arms, we all want light bikes, this is part of the price. All bikes that use a forward facing adj bolts that penitrate into the hollow area are susceptible to this problem. You need to fully remove and grease the bolt every time you remove the rear wheel and it will quit being a problem, takes all of 10 min. It really should be part of every dirtbike owner's normal maint routine.

Unfortunately WD40 is almost worthless for a alum2steel corrosion problem like the adjusters. Some folks drill drain holes, not sure if I agree with that as it adds another entrance point for water. Plain old grease seems to work very well.
There was no water inside , i have had them out when bought the bike and aplayed some copper grease slip , it was hard to take apart but it worked , then during winter kept spraing the WD40 all over the beast just to be safe as the bike sits in the garage for few months ,all this did nothing to help . The screw adjust is designed for racing i think , its meant to be moved often , if it stands for longer periods of time the ALU/Steel reaction starts
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:10 AM   #16077
Sean-0
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wd 40 aint a good thing ....anti seize those bolts they will be fine for long periods ..wd40 turns to a tacky mess ....use a silicone spray much better if you must do that .... i would just cover with a blanket and put on a lift .....i have left my bike sit for months like that with no issues at all
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:12 AM   #16078
ZXRaziel
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Brake /clutch fluid mixed with aceton works , Heat works where possible and this is my favorite
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4000624717...84.m1438.l2649

Loctite freeze release works good and no damage to the surrounding parts . Too bad i had none left when i did the damage
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:16 AM   #16079
jm-2008
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Seized Bolts

[QUOTE=RideFreak;20748406] You need to fully remove and grease the bolt every time you remove the rear wheel and it will quit being a problem, takes all of 10 min. It really should be part of every dirtbike owner's normal maint routine.

+1 on that suggestion
I use a high heat anti-seize compound on the bolts and ditto no issues.
(for that matter its a good idea to remove/antiseize every bolt you can see, especially under the rear guard as these will defiantly seize into the nutcerts)
Just plain grease will work fine also if done regularly (when the wheel comes out)

The small white plastic rear brake hose retaining clip is a good place for water to get into the swing arm
Has a locating spigot to orientate it correctly but there is a matching hole in the top of the swing arm for it.
Suspect thats one of the places mine gets mine gets water ingress.
If you suspect there is water in there when you get the bolts out squirt some methylated (Metho) spirits in there and let drain.
Water and Metho mix and its a sure fire way to get water out of awkward places.

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Old 02-18-2013, 01:18 AM   #16080
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
wd 40 aint a good thing ....anti seize those bolts they will be fine for long periods ..wd40 turns to a tacky mess ....use a silicone spray much better if you must do that .... i would just cover with a blanket and put on a lift .....i have left my bike sit for months like that with no issues at all
Thank you for the advice Sean-0 , i think the WD40 actualy flushed the copper grease out allowing the metals to bond and the screws have already sufered some stress with the previous owner , its a old girl after all ,
lesson learned .

But i still love her
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