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Old 02-24-2013, 12:29 AM   #16156
duckfart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
Fartduck, I have the Manrack for my XR650R and very happy with it. I like it because its not too huge, and wont be tempted to overload it. I had mine powder coated red. It comes with a support under it that bolts to the subframe too. Overall very nice and I recommend it.

Did it help with the fender wooble at all?? Im tired of replacing blinkers.It looks good in red.
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:13 AM   #16157
Capt. Egregious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckfart View Post
Did it help with the fender wooble at all?? Im tired of replacing blinkers.It looks good in red.

If you are tired of the rear fender shaking, build a new license plate fender support like the one I made.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:32 AM   #16158
Xmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdlak View Post
Finally got the motivation to grease the swingarm on my XRR today. My bike has around 1000 miles on it. Here's what the bolt looked like...



Luckily it came out easy. Lots of water, little grease in the bearings...



Couple hours later...



Back end is ready to go! Waiting for shims and seals to finish the forks.
I just did mine yesterday. My bolt looked the same but bearing had to be replaced. I also made a the tools for torquing the bearings.

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Old 02-24-2013, 05:57 AM   #16159
Knobbiethrower
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Originally Posted by Xmoto View Post
I just did mine yesterday. My bolt looked the same but bearing had to be replaced. I also made a the tools for torquing the bearings.

Nice work!
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:05 AM   #16160
mdlak
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Agree. Nice work xmoto!
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:42 AM   #16161
supernick
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:07 AM   #16162
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I'll add one more recomendation for the carb work. Verify that your disassembly screwdriver is "JIS" head, not just "Phillips" head. They do fit slightly differently. May not be a problem in AUS. Not sure what your local standard is.

I second completely removing the flapper plate.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

Sounds like someone's been reading their latest issue of MCN...
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:20 AM   #16163
slickwill
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MCN?

No, I've just worked on enough Japanese bikes to have learned the difference.

I've also learned that JIS screws are made of a material similar in consistency to swiss cheese.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:35 PM   #16164
DocAxeYarYar
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XRR Fender Wobble

Quote:
Originally Posted by duckfart View Post
Did it help with the fender wooble at all?? Im tired of replacing blinkers.It looks good in red.
Hi, the ManRacks has a small sheet metal support under the fender. It bolts to the end of the subframe, and comes up with a large tab that supports the rack. It helps stabilize the fender somewhat......I dont run turnsignals so cant say about the extra weight that signals may add. Overall I think the rack works real good!
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:11 PM   #16165
achile
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Fork tool by-pass

Hey, guys!

I just did the drilling, shimming and oil change on my piggy's front fork. I wanted to make the fork tool, but a seasoned grease monkey instructed me on by-passing the tool.


You don't need any special tools if you don't want to change the seals. Just folow these steps:
- set the adjusters to fully open
- go to a vice
- turn the fork leg upside-down
- wrap a piece of cloth around it and tighten the vice leaving, about 10 cm between the floor and the upper cap
- take 32mm socket an put it under the cap's hexagon to protect the adjuster screw; compress the fork by pulling twards the vice and put something underneath the socket to keep it compressed
- untighten the lower cap(upper, when it's upside-down); the compression will keep it from rotating(so, no special tool)
-drain the oil
-take out the leg from the vice and do your stuff.

Put it back using the same technique. You can do it whitout a vice compressing it with your body weight, but the vice saves you time and it's damn handy.

Another way of avoiding the fork tool is to use a pneumatic wrench with adjustable torque.
#when screwing it back on, do it by hand at first;
-then tighten it to the appropiate torque(54Nm)

Have fun!
Dragos
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:06 PM   #16166
medisyn
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Yeah I tried to use a normal screwdriver on my JIS screws in my carb. They almost all stripped. I had to use a dremel to slot them and get them out. I have replaced them all.

I now also own a JIS screw driver.
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:22 PM   #16167
Sean-0
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Think jis is standard here in Aus ....mine fit fine
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:26 PM   #16168
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
MCN?

No, I've just worked on enough Japanese bikes to have learned the difference.

I've also learned that JIS screws are made of a material similar in consistency to swiss cheese.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Motorcycle Consumer News had an article on using JIS screwdrivers on Japanese-made motorcycles (and other machinery/vehicles, I would presume). I believe it is the March 2013 edition, right on the back page. I just read it on Friday, so your statement was very timely. Mine, not so much....
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:16 PM   #16169
mitchn06
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getting my parts list for 2013 ready, including the oil sight tube. for anybody who has done it, would the rotating swageloc fitting fit the bill, or would it cause issues? Here is the LINK to the fitting.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:25 PM   #16170
zoro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
getting my parts list for 2013 ready, including the oil sight tube. for anybody who has done it, would the rotating swageloc fitting fit the bill, or would it cause issues? Here is the LINK to the fitting.

Mitchn06, I have 13 years experience with hydraulic/ pneumatic equipment and IMO I would prefer to use a tapered fitting ( BSPT or NPT) for this application. Using the parallel thread that you have shown in the link would be great if you could ensure the sealing surface it was going to mate to was indeed flat. A tapered thread will be cheaper as well.
In all honesty I would use a brass fitting and tapered NPT or BSPT, these are a dime-a-dozen as opposed to the Swagelok fittings in SS316.
However when using compression fittings and clear nylon tube as seen in this modification it would be wise to use a spigot. It is basically a small tube type design that slides up the internal ID of the tubing and this allows the compression olive to bite into the tubing a bit better, provides a backbone to the connection.
These compression fittings are usually used with steel tubing, when an olive compresses onto the tube it will not deform like a piece of flexible clear nylon tube will. Thus allowing the olive to bite into the tubing more effectively.

Just my opinion, but save yourself some $$$'s and use a tapered brass fitting with a spigot.
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