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Old 03-01-2013, 10:58 PM   #16246
cognugget
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
YES, they can be intermittently bad. the solder connections on the board can break causing a poor or intermittent connection.

The common solution is to replace with a xr400 cdi of a certain model range. it has a different curve and higher rev limit.

Or play it safe and get an original one.

never understood why you would need more rpms out of these things they flatten out power wise pretty quick in the rpm range. (radical mods not withstanding).
Bike started 1st kick this morning. I was on my way to work, 5 miles down the road, at about 40% throttle (50mph) and i just lost power over 25% throttle, i nursed it to an exit, where she died after getting too low in rpm. Right now, she runs great. At one point, it wouldn't start when I heated the CDI up with a heatgun, and would when I cooled it off, now it starts either way... very odd... I think im going to cancel my saturday and monday ride plans.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:04 PM   #16247
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I don't know, but i would be leary of the china aftermarket ones. I've seen at least 3 different ones on ebay ect,,, the thought crossed my mind....

Best probably to go oem.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:05 PM   #16248
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
I don't know, but i would be leary of the china aftermarket ones. I've seen at least 3 different ones on ebay ect,,, the thought crossed my mind....

Best probably to go oem.
If I need a CDI, I will get an OEM.
$130
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:15 PM   #16249
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http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...0-MBN-671.html
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:22 PM   #16250
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Before I'd accuse the CDI I'd have meticulously checked all connections, plugs, earth's etc, up to the last seemingly unimportant bit. Clean to 'new', use contact spray for this plus some grease before reconnecting, and know a bit of paint or a sque conncetor can throw the spark off. Obviously a new unit won't help here then, just my 2 c's..
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:23 PM   #16251
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Before I'd accuse the CDI I'd have meticulously checked all connections, plugs, earth's etc, up to the last seemingly unimportant bit. Clean to 'new', use contact spray for this plus some grease before reconnecting, and know a bit of paint or a sque conncetor can throw the spark off. Obviously a new unit won't help here then, just my 2 c's..
I will. This has been a huge pain.....Its running great right now. But i have no faith in it...... more tests tomorrow. it had this issue, then ran great for 150 miles, then issue again.

How do you test the stator, and pulse receiver?
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:33 PM   #16252
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Nothing worse than chasing electrical gremlins by replacing parts. Been there done that, no fun and a waste of money/time.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:36 PM   #16253
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Nothing worse than chasing electrical gremlins by replacing parts. Been there done that, no fun and a waste of money/time.
Yeah , Im pissed....

I dont know if i trust it to ride this monday
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:04 AM   #16254
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I prefer the Factory Honda Service manual. There are a couple areas that it isn't clear in the OEM manual for an engine build but nothing major. I've built the engine twice in the last year using the OEM manual and haven't had any trouble.

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Old 03-02-2013, 12:16 AM   #16255
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I prefer the Factory Honda Service manual. There are a couple areas that it isn't clear in the OEM manual for an engine build but nothing major. I've built the engine twice in the last year using the OEM manual and haven't had any trouble.

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I have the european service manual. do you know the specs for the stator ohms/volts
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:39 AM   #16256
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Quick question-- I obviously changed the coolant yesterday when I put in the new thermostat. I haven't started the engine since. Will coolant have transferred over to both radiators even without the engine starting, or can I get away with not draining the coolant if I'm taking the thermostat out again?
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:48 AM   #16257
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
I will. This has been a huge pain.....Its running great right now. But i have no faith in it...... more tests tomorrow. it had this issue, then ran great for 150 miles, then issue again.

How do you test the stator, and pulse receiver?
I've got an 87 XR600 out in the garage that does the same thing,I got sick of messing with it now its just an ornament.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:17 AM   #16258
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
Has anybody had a bad CDI on their xrr? I think i may be fighting an intermittant cdi. More testing to come, but she died a few weeks ago and was a beezy to start.... now, 150 miles later it happened again on my way to work..... it runs fine again now. when testing spark, sometimes it would just randomly not spark/ and or backfire.
Double check the spark plug wire as it passes under the frame and over the valve cover. It has been known to chaff allowing current to pass to ground. Or just replace it. Plug wires (meaning the insulation) does go bad after years of heat and flexing.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:40 AM   #16259
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Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I prefer the Factory Honda Service manual. There are a couple areas that it isn't clear in the OEM manual for an engine build but nothing major. I've built the engine twice in the last year using the OEM manual and haven't had any trouble.

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Just curious why you had to rebuild it twice in the same year?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:43 AM   #16260
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Originally Posted by nigelcorn View Post
Quick question-- I obviously changed the coolant yesterday when I put in the new thermostat. I haven't started the engine since. Will coolant have transferred over to both radiators even without the engine starting, or can I get away with not draining the coolant if I'm taking the thermostat out again?

Yup, there are hoses connecting the rads so it fills both. The stat is the device the stops / redirects flow of the coolant once started, but otherwise both rads fill.

Keep in mind you should try to burb the engine/coolant. Try to get all the air out and double check once you put it through a heat cycle that that coolant is still full (obviously only opening the cap once cooled down).
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