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Old 03-02-2013, 10:26 AM   #16261
Jayrod1318
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http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/565810-faq/

get the manual about halfway down in list.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:29 AM   #16262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/565810-faq/

get the manual about halfway down in list.
That link does not work for me. I have the european shop manual
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:29 AM   #16263
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Yup, there are hoses connecting the rads so it fills both. The stat is the device the stops / redirects flow of the coolant once started, but otherwise both rads fill.

Keep in mind you should try to burb the engine/coolant. Try to get all the air out and double check once you put it through a heat cycle that that coolant is still full (obviously only opening the cap once cooled down).

It'll draw from the overflow bottle if it needs more coolant, just add there.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:30 AM   #16264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/565810-faq/

get the manual about halfway down in list.
Seems to be working in Iinternet Explorer. This is the one I have.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:36 AM   #16265
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Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
I need to buy a shop manual and was wondering if the factory Honda manual is better than the Clymer.

Anyone with both?
i have the clymer and the factory manual pdf, i seem to be referring to the pdf more and more as the clymer is not correct on many things, ie. bolt sizes torque specs, its handy for pictures, but kinda junk really
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:42 AM   #16266
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From Ricky Stator
Exciter, Black/Red to brown= 90 ohms
Pule Generator, Blue/Yellow to Green/White= about 250 ohms
Lighting coil, green to White/Yellow= 0-1 ohm



Another odd issue, as I revved the bike, the voltage coming off the regulator was at a normal~13 at idle, but as I reved it up to around 5k, the voltage dropped to ~10 volts...
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:46 AM   #16267
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:39 AM   #16268
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Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Just curious why you had to rebuild it twice in the same year?
The first time the big end bearing went on the rod. I sent the crank for a very expensive rebuild with new knife rod, polish, balance, etc. When I got it back a tooth had been damaged when the counterbalance drive gear was pulled for the rebuild. I had to send it back to have a new gear pressed on. When it came back the second time the new gear was either just a bit warped or had been pressed on slightly wrong. It had just a bit of excess lateral runout. It wasn't something that I could identify with it in pieces. When I got back together there was a slight knock in the bottom end. I raced it that way last summer but then pulled it apart again this winter. I bought a blown crank and sent both of them to a different shop this winter to have the gears swapped. I replaced the crank bearings then put it all back together again. Even though I had to do a complete disassembly I was able to leave the new top end untouched. It sounds great now with no knock anymore.

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Old 03-02-2013, 11:53 AM   #16269
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
NigelC,

a good habit is to smear some copperpaste/anti seize compound on a sparkplug's thread. First it'll never seize, second it conducts heat well, and thirdly it will aid in sealing-off the thread-gap from the combustion chamber.
But you, rebuilding this engine, should use it at many places, as stuck bolts are a pain when dismantling an engine.
I think the only place on the entire engine that you should use anti-seize is the spark plug. There are a few places the manual specifies locking agents, and a couple places that it specifies engine oil but nowhere that it calls for anti-seize. Bolts on the frame, and the chain adjusters are a different story.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:55 AM   #16270
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Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I think the only place on the entire engine that you should use anti-seize is the spark plug. There are a few places the manual specifies locking agents, and a couple places that it specifies engine oil but nowhere that it calls for anti-seize. Bolts on the frame, and the chain adjusters are a different story.

Not even on the spark plug unless it's a super old plug made in 1975 with black threads. NGK says that their plugs that have silver threads are anti-seize coated metal already.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:41 PM   #16271
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Does anybody know the Ohms that the ignition coil should put off the primary and secondary?
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:48 PM   #16272
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Not even on the spark plug unless it's a super old plug made in 1975 with black threads. NGK says that their plugs that have silver threads are anti-seize coated metal already.
I've never used it on my NGK plugs but I do think that it may have a role when you are reusing a plug.

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Old 03-02-2013, 12:59 PM   #16273
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
Does anybody know the Ohms that the ignition coil should put off the primary and secondary?

Primary, 200-800 ohms

Secondary, 2,000-4,000 ohms
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:18 PM   #16274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I think the only place on the entire engine that you should use anti-seize is the spark plug. There are a few places the manual specifies locking agents, and a couple places that it specifies engine oil but nowhere that it calls for anti-seize. Bolts on the frame, and the chain adjusters are a different story.
Definitely on any sparkplug (irrespective on the material of the head), and also on any steel (or stainless) bolt going into the alu casings - for obvious reasons, steel in ali, they'll electrocorrode together in time, the chainadjusters a perfect example.
But convince yourself of this by 'lubing' the carb's floatbowl screws with this stuff. The next time you undo them they'll come loose in a normal way, without stripping the heads or worse, needing an impact driver.
I use copaslip on any thread or use a locking compound, the only exception being the head or other crucial torqued nuts/bolts (conrods or why) - as the oil in it will result in a wrong torque setting.
Oh, I lie, the drainplugs get nothing, ditto a screw-on oilfilter
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:45 PM   #16275
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well, she was running well, stgarting easy, took her 1/4 mile and it started acting up again. was like hitting a rev limiter at 1/3 throttle. Then it was impossible to start. Valves are in spec. I let it cool down... started 1st kick... in think im going to replace the cdi.
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