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Old 03-02-2013, 09:09 AM   #16261
cognugget
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
Double check the spark plug wire as it passes under the frame and over the valve cover. It has been known to chaff allowing current to pass to ground. Or just replace it. Plug wires (meaning the insulation) does go bad after years of heat and flexing.
It has been checked many times.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #16262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
Double check the spark plug wire as it passes under the frame and over the valve cover. It has been known to chaff allowing current to pass to ground. Or just replace it. Plug wires (meaning the insulation) does go bad after years of heat and flexing.
This is also a very low hour bike.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:58 AM   #16263
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
This is also a very low hour bike.
Faulty kill switch or wiring?
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:00 AM   #16264
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Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
Faulty kill switch or wiring?
The kill switch does not seem to be the issue, as it was having the issue with killswitch dissconectedd. the bike runs fine now. I just got to wait for 150miles down the road when she decides to die again :( Im going to spray some water in the connector that comes up from the stator that powers the ignition.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:07 AM   #16265
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
The kill switch does not seem to be the issue, as it was having the issue with killswitch dissconectedd. the bike runs fine now. I just got to wait for 150miles down the road when she decides to die again :( Im going to spray some water in the connector that comes up from the stator that powers the ignition.
That would be where I'd go next. Sounds like you're doing all the right things, as frustrating as they are.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:21 AM   #16266
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Does anybody know what the Resistance should be for the coils?
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:26 AM   #16267
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http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/565810-faq/

get the manual about halfway down in list.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:29 AM   #16268
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/565810-faq/

get the manual about halfway down in list.
That link does not work for me. I have the european shop manual
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:29 AM   #16269
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Yup, there are hoses connecting the rads so it fills both. The stat is the device the stops / redirects flow of the coolant once started, but otherwise both rads fill.

Keep in mind you should try to burb the engine/coolant. Try to get all the air out and double check once you put it through a heat cycle that that coolant is still full (obviously only opening the cap once cooled down).

It'll draw from the overflow bottle if it needs more coolant, just add there.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:30 AM   #16270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/565810-faq/

get the manual about halfway down in list.
Seems to be working in Iinternet Explorer. This is the one I have.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:36 AM   #16271
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Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
I need to buy a shop manual and was wondering if the factory Honda manual is better than the Clymer.

Anyone with both?
i have the clymer and the factory manual pdf, i seem to be referring to the pdf more and more as the clymer is not correct on many things, ie. bolt sizes torque specs, its handy for pictures, but kinda junk really
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:42 AM   #16272
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From Ricky Stator
Exciter, Black/Red to brown= 90 ohms
Pule Generator, Blue/Yellow to Green/White= about 250 ohms
Lighting coil, green to White/Yellow= 0-1 ohm



Another odd issue, as I revved the bike, the voltage coming off the regulator was at a normal~13 at idle, but as I reved it up to around 5k, the voltage dropped to ~10 volts...
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:46 AM   #16273
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Link to my build in progress : CLICK HERE
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:39 AM   #16274
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Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Just curious why you had to rebuild it twice in the same year?
The first time the big end bearing went on the rod. I sent the crank for a very expensive rebuild with new knife rod, polish, balance, etc. When I got it back a tooth had been damaged when the counterbalance drive gear was pulled for the rebuild. I had to send it back to have a new gear pressed on. When it came back the second time the new gear was either just a bit warped or had been pressed on slightly wrong. It had just a bit of excess lateral runout. It wasn't something that I could identify with it in pieces. When I got back together there was a slight knock in the bottom end. I raced it that way last summer but then pulled it apart again this winter. I bought a blown crank and sent both of them to a different shop this winter to have the gears swapped. I replaced the crank bearings then put it all back together again. Even though I had to do a complete disassembly I was able to leave the new top end untouched. It sounds great now with no knock anymore.

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Old 03-02-2013, 11:53 AM   #16275
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
NigelC,

a good habit is to smear some copperpaste/anti seize compound on a sparkplug's thread. First it'll never seize, second it conducts heat well, and thirdly it will aid in sealing-off the thread-gap from the combustion chamber.
But you, rebuilding this engine, should use it at many places, as stuck bolts are a pain when dismantling an engine.
I think the only place on the entire engine that you should use anti-seize is the spark plug. There are a few places the manual specifies locking agents, and a couple places that it specifies engine oil but nowhere that it calls for anti-seize. Bolts on the frame, and the chain adjusters are a different story.
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