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Old 03-02-2013, 10:55 AM   #16276
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I think the only place on the entire engine that you should use anti-seize is the spark plug. There are a few places the manual specifies locking agents, and a couple places that it specifies engine oil but nowhere that it calls for anti-seize. Bolts on the frame, and the chain adjusters are a different story.

Not even on the spark plug unless it's a super old plug made in 1975 with black threads. NGK says that their plugs that have silver threads are anti-seize coated metal already.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:41 AM   #16277
cognugget
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Does anybody know the Ohms that the ignition coil should put off the primary and secondary?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:48 AM   #16278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Not even on the spark plug unless it's a super old plug made in 1975 with black threads. NGK says that their plugs that have silver threads are anti-seize coated metal already.
I've never used it on my NGK plugs but I do think that it may have a role when you are reusing a plug.

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Old 03-02-2013, 11:59 AM   #16279
larryboy
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
Does anybody know the Ohms that the ignition coil should put off the primary and secondary?

Primary, 200-800 ohms

Secondary, 2,000-4,000 ohms
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:18 PM   #16280
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I think the only place on the entire engine that you should use anti-seize is the spark plug. There are a few places the manual specifies locking agents, and a couple places that it specifies engine oil but nowhere that it calls for anti-seize. Bolts on the frame, and the chain adjusters are a different story.
Definitely on any sparkplug (irrespective on the material of the head), and also on any steel (or stainless) bolt going into the alu casings - for obvious reasons, steel in ali, they'll electrocorrode together in time, the chainadjusters a perfect example.
But convince yourself of this by 'lubing' the carb's floatbowl screws with this stuff. The next time you undo them they'll come loose in a normal way, without stripping the heads or worse, needing an impact driver.
I use copaslip on any thread or use a locking compound, the only exception being the head or other crucial torqued nuts/bolts (conrods or why) - as the oil in it will result in a wrong torque setting.
Oh, I lie, the drainplugs get nothing, ditto a screw-on oilfilter
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:45 PM   #16281
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well, she was running well, stgarting easy, took her 1/4 mile and it started acting up again. was like hitting a rev limiter at 1/3 throttle. Then it was impossible to start. Valves are in spec. I let it cool down... started 1st kick... in think im going to replace the cdi.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:25 AM   #16282
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cdi

cognugget,

I'm in Portland. I have a stock cdi box, cause I changed to the older xr400. If you are interested you can borrow it to see if it is your problem, if it is, I can make you a deal on it. If it is not then you will know! It is just sitting in a box! Let me know, if I can help!
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:23 PM   #16283
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LED Power ON!! with Vison X SOLO 15º







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Old 03-03-2013, 12:49 PM   #16284
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One single Led ? that must be some badass LED
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:45 PM   #16285
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Thumb new fairing


I picked the(Kenaroo !) fairing up from an inmate for a great price and swapped the led off my old fairing. Thanks looper and Kenaroo!
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:55 PM   #16286
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One single Led ? that must be some badass LED
They're bright, but not THAT bright.

Good if you don't plan on riding at night and still blinding cars. haha. Bad if you actually want to ride at night with speed.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:19 PM   #16287
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Finally finished up the sumo/ dual sport project and got it plated of Friday. Did a little riding yesterday.

I think I messed up on the gearing a bit. I went 14t front 40t rear. It's really a bit tall. Think I'll try a 13t on the front and see how that feels.

Plating dirt bikes is pretty new in Washington just became legal last year.

This bike is going to be fun.


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Old 03-03-2013, 08:26 PM   #16288
hontri
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[QUOTE=bill pierce;20857613]Finally finished up the sumo/ dual sport project and got it plated of Friday. Did a little riding yesterday.

I think I messed up on the gearing a bit. I went 14t front 40t rear. It's really a bit tall. Think I'll try a 13t on the front and see how that feels.

This bike is going to be fun.


Just my opinion but i think your going the wrong way on the gearing unless your using it for something different than i use my sumo for. For street riding i use 16/42. I was using 15/38 which is close to the same as the 16/42 but the 16/42 was smoother due to the bigger front sprocket. This thing is a rip especially in the twisties!
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:35 PM   #16289
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a 13 on a sumo ...and a 40 ... id be worried you would be chewing out your swingarm ....16/45 is the go
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:57 PM   #16290
babuja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
They're bright, but not THAT bright.

Good if you don't plan on riding at night and still blinding cars. haha. Bad if you actually want to ride at night with speed.
This is superb light but if you need extra light for night rally ride you should add some 45º/15º LED light.

With this combination you'll have better light than your car:



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babuja screwed with this post 03-04-2013 at 08:19 AM
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