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Old 03-08-2013, 04:44 PM   #16396
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
not what i wanted to hear, not at all.
I hear ya , kinda like seeing a letter from the IRS

there could be more garbage down below
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:23 PM   #16397
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I have carried 40-50lbs on my rack without any mods to the subframe, and no issues. Upgraded all related to fasteners to the highest grade I could get a hold of. Just don't be a jackass and act like a superstar racer with your luggage on. And carry an extra long bolt, maybe even find a longer one.

My replacing of a crank case side resulted in a complete rebuild too; also needed the c-rod.
Thanks. Bad intake valves turns into a look at the small end of the C-rod which turns into a look between the cases which leads to many new internal parts. Mostly because I don't want have split the cases again.

They still make the XR650R. You just have to buy it one piece at a time.



-dod
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:29 PM   #16398
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muffler for sale

Muffler for sale in the flea, don't know if this against the rules but here it is. This is probably the most free flowing muffler you could ever find.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=869028
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:56 PM   #16399
slickwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
what do you guys think of this wrist pin and rod small end?
That's what mine looked like when the big end bearing went. That's definitely "done." You may find that the crank is buggered up from whatever toasted the small end.

What did your oil look like when you drained it?

If someone else drained it before you got to it then you need to check everything. Screens, oil pump, etc.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:17 PM   #16400
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOD View Post
Thanks. Bad intake valves turns into a look at the small end of the C-rod which turns into a look between the cases which leads to many new internal parts. Mostly because I don't want have split the cases again.

They still make the XR650R. You just have to buy it one piece at a time.



-dod
Looks like you and I are in similar positions here. damn

Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
That's what mine looked like when the big end bearing went. That's definitely "done." You may find that the crank is buggered up from whatever toasted the small end.

What did your oil look like when you drained it?

If someone else drained it before you got to it then you need to check everything. Screens, oil pump, etc.
the oil was black when i drained it. i rode it all summer long mostly. it burned a quart of oil every 100 miles about. I have a build thread in my signature with more background. case screen was cleaned out last spring with minimal metal fragments, and downtube screen checked every oil change. i think it ran low on oil at some point without my knowing. guess i needed to pay better attention. well i guess after this mess i'll probably be installing the oil sight tube mod.

any recommendations on C-rods? i'm basically stock except for normal uncork, hotcams S1, and TM40. i don't think i will be able to afford a $400 crank. what are some other options that are decent or OEM like?
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:56 PM   #16401
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I am finally going to put on the new right crankcase cover tomorrow. Does anybody know what is used to seal the plugs that go into it? I know two of them are red loctite, (off the old warped one) but the others are a sealant/thread locker that is dark grey. Should I just use red loctite on them all?
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:23 PM   #16402
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Well after a long sabbatical to SE Asia Im back, just before I left last June I blew up the lower rod bearing and crankcase at 70mph on the freeway, thank god I was quick on the clutch cause she locked up tighter than a nuns asshole. .. Now its rebuild time.



Got a new (used in great shape) case and have all the bearings pulled out, steam cleaned and sparkling, just sent out the crank for a press and balance with new rod, re nikasil the cylinder, hard face weld the rockers, and a valve job replacing everything. Also throwing in a hot cams stage 1 and cutting out the rear side panel so she'll breathe better



One question Ive got after cleaning and inspecting the oil pump today is should I be worried about the pump if both sides are at their service limits? I plan on replacing the parts after the build up but am I going to see any significant loss in pressure for cam break in, some short runs, etc, the service limit is .008 and its a real snug fit?

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Old 03-08-2013, 08:38 PM   #16403
bill pierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Gnar View Post
should I be worried about the pump if both sides are at their service limits?
I would replace it before you fire it up. It's not the place to save money on.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:40 PM   #16404
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I assume that means the cover itself as well right?
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:46 PM   #16405
slickwill
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Got any pics? I've assembled my engine twice recently following the book exactly and didn't use any red loctite but I may not have had to remove what you are talking about. I used Hondabond 4 for the cases and valve cover and really liked working with it. I used a small paint brush from my kids watercolors to apply it and it worked great.

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Old 03-08-2013, 08:56 PM   #16406
slickwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post

any recommendations on C-rods?

If you never had massive amounts of shavings your big end may be intact. I went with a Falicon rod but I had the entire Falicon "Supercrank" mod done at the same time which was around $850 with the new rod. My engine is really far from stock and I had already blown one stock crank/rod combo so I look at it as a preemptive strike.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:13 AM   #16407
FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Gnar View Post
I assume that means the cover itself as well right?
yes the aluminum will wear faster than the steel parts you are measuring in the picture above.
I can see that your pressure side gear rotor has had quite a bit of particulate matter go through it and that will wear the case, so a new gear rotor can be sloppy in a old case.
Honda also recommends replacing the oil pump with the case 1/2 as a set.
Also look at the filter cover for wear.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:51 PM   #16408
digga1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
If you never had massive amounts of shavings your big end may be intact. I went with a Falicon rod but I had the entire Falicon "Supercrank" mod done at the same time which was around $850 with the new rod. My engine is really far from stock and I had already blown one stock crank/rod combo so I look at it as a preemptive strike.
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what is this supercrank mod you speak of?
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:03 PM   #16409
AJ..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Gnar View Post
Well after a long sabbatical to SE Asia Im back, just before I left last June I blew up the lower rod bearing and crankcase at 70mph on the freeway, thank god I was quick on the clutch cause she locked up tighter than a nuns asshole. .. Now its rebuild time.



Got a new (used in great shape) case and have all the bearings pulled out, steam cleaned and sparkling, just sent out the crank for a press and balance with new rod, re nikasil the cylinder, hard face weld the rockers, and a valve job replacing everything. Also throwing in a hot cams stage 1 and cutting out the rear side panel so she'll breathe better



One question Ive got after cleaning and inspecting the oil pump today is should I be worried about the pump if both sides are at their service limits? I plan on replacing the parts after the build up but am I going to see any significant loss in pressure for cam break in, some short runs, etc, the service limit is .008 and its a real snug fit?

hey man,on gour SE Asia trip,did you happened to dropby Singapore for a.set of tyres?
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:03 PM   #16410
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street riding

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