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Old 07-30-2013, 11:17 PM   #17686
KASUYAHO
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Aussie Land
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigkuri View Post
This is one huge thread, so apologies if this has been posted before....

I currently have a KTM 950 SuperEnduro. I love it, but time for a change.

Any opinions of going from the 950 to the BRP?

My background is childhood of semi-pro enduro, and I now do circa 15k miles per year road touring, plus 20 odd days of off road. I don't want two bikes, and my road riding is so quick I have to limit myself with power (speeding tickets etc)

I've always wanted a BRP, as I ended my racing career on a KX500 just as the Honda came out. Just a bit worried about all my miles.... Figuring an oil cooler to boost oil quantity and increase service intervals?

Any thoughts appreciated :)
I am looking at a SE at the moment.

It will be my second bike as I won't sell the 650R.
There just too good of a bike to part with.

Honda recommend changing to oil at 1,000 miles,
why I believe they state this is because the bike was made to race Baja flat
out all day.
So IMHO I think the oil change intervals can be stretched out to larger intervals if a good oil is used for non racing.

Myself I use a good synthetic oil and change the oil at 5,000km's / 3,100 miles.
I have never had the oil analysed but will do at the next oil change.
When I freshened up my engine there were no scuff makes on the cam,
rockers, valve tips.
If the oil had broken down that would be the first area's problems would appear.

This bike / engine oil capacity is 2 litres.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:54 PM   #17687
MingRidesBikes
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Location: Boise, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunga Galunga View Post
Bummer. That is a great crew down at Moto 1. Mine is a 2001 and fresh purchase also so I would be very interested to hear what Jason finds in there. They have been very helpful on my build and I would prefer to avoid your situation if at all possible.

So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So I need to go in and talk to Jason and Andy, but it looks like with the amount of work that it needs for a rebuild, I either say fuck it, and take a $3500 bath in the bike and accessories I just bought, or I drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast. Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:01 AM   #17688
Lostsaffa
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Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So I need to go in and talk to Jason and Andy, but it looks like with the amount of work that it needs for a rebuild, I either say fuck it, and take a $3500 bath in the bike and accessories I just bought, or I drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast. Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.
Sorry to hear that.

However, there is no other bike like it, and its only money at the end of the day (time can heal that assuming you have an income) :)
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:56 AM   #17689
jules083
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Build it!!


All serious though, you're kind of stuck. It sucks, I have an xr250r in a similar but not quite as bad situation. It's either build it or give it away basically.

To part out your bike then buy another one would be a bit less money, but your taking another gamble. Same thing with buying a used motor.

If you have the money, the most expensive part of the xr is going to be new when you're done. You'll likely get many miles of fun out of it when you're done. The killer is going to be that you'll have $6000 invested in a $3000 bike. Still less than buying, say, a used ktm though. If you decide to part it out you'll probably get about $1000 back from it, give or take. Maybe $1500.

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Old 07-31-2013, 11:08 AM   #17690
DocAxeYarYar
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
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To rebuild or part out?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast? Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.
Hey, that sucks and sorry to hear about condition of the motor. If you are very comitted, you could rebuild the motor.....but back to STOCK specs. Building it up into a hot rod will invite more problems, and you could regret it. Dont go hog wild on the motor, use as much OEM parts as you can.

Keeping the motor stock will give you the most reliability and long life. But, some better aftermarket valves would be a good mod.

If your not committed to the process, then part out the bike to recover what you can, then start looking again.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:19 PM   #17691
crypto666
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Joined: May 2011
Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So I need to go in and talk to Jason and Andy, but it looks like with the amount of work that it needs for a rebuild, I either say fuck it, and take a $3500 bath in the bike and accessories I just bought, or I drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast. Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.

BUILD IT!

You will have a badass bike that will pay for itself in smiles. I had the same thoughts, but I don't regret my build one bit.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:54 PM   #17692
BuRPsa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
the rad tanks will fit. you need to rotate the bottom and top pipes to fit. cut them off and re-weld in the right direction. sorry I haven't been of much help mate, where are you up to with the build?
Well, I'm momentarily stuck, sort of.
Digga, there's very few things I will actually put my cock on a block for, I love the bugger too much for that. But this is one of them: no ways this tank will fit with the std rads in the std position/mounting holes! (Edited: I do not mean the outlet(s), the bottom bin's in the way, actually the halves are somewhat lopsided, they differ in height)
The RHS is the culprit, the LHS is fine.
So, I have to mod the R-rad, modify the bottom 'bin' - but I'd rather not do that to the std rads, I'll get myself a dual-row set first. Of course that's also why Kasuyaho's post was a bingo-one, I'll get myself a set.
Also, the, again RHS-half, touches, oh hell, pushes hard on the floatchamber of the TM40, without some mild violence it simply will not fit.
But, there's good news too, which is that all these niggles are overcomeable (scroo Inlis 2 :). I've got some engine hangers/brackets drawn which, once lasercut, will help with all this.
So all will become well eventually.

Mind though, I have to re-route the oil-return line, as is it is in the way of the (yeah, again the RHS) bottom bolt trough the tank's hole. How did you do this? Pls send a pic to my email, would appreciate.
Also, the two top bolts 'clamping' the tank-halves will on my bike do just that - which means that the entire tank-assy will be only secured by the bottom two bolts. This is of course why I make these points sturdy, hence the new engine mountings. Again, how did you do this, the top bolts, they sit secured to the frame maybe? Piccie please 2 Mate, will really help even if I might do different.

BuRPsa screwed with this post 07-31-2013 at 02:26 PM
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:35 PM   #17693
rpmwfo
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Joined: Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So I need to go in and talk to Jason and Andy, but it looks like with the amount of work that it needs for a rebuild, I either say fuck it, and take a $3500 bath in the bike and accessories I just bought, or I drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast. Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.
Go big. Bikes are like any hobby- you pour money into them for fun. You hardly ever get the money back out of them that you put in. A big bore XR would be a blast!
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:56 PM   #17694
sintax
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I'm gonna play devils advocate here...

The more radical the engine, the more heat is produced, the shorter engines last. Depending on what you use the bike for, I'd consider sticking with factory specs.

Increasing the bore and stroke, compression, and cam choice can often result in negative effects on long term reliability.

IF i was building a true dual sport with emphasis on a honest performing engine capable of putting some miles down, i think I'd keep it as stock as possible.
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:50 PM   #17695
stevh0
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Location: Cape Town, ZA
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Broke that off while struggling with the fuel line. How bad is it and can I leave it off? Seems to be a vacuum hose that vents downwards?
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:46 PM   #17696
Lostsaffa
Half Man Half BRP
 
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Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
Oddometer: 611
Just thought I would post this pic of the 1x build so far for those who haven't seen the build thread yet:



If anyone knows of a Johnny Campbell Signature (blue anodized) triple clamp for sale please, please, please get in touch
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:11 PM   #17697
FlyGuy
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Location: Middle of Highway 1 California
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Rebuild parts cost and suppliers

Well I see another crank has bit the dust, Sorry to hear.

I just went through my motor and thought I would share my experience.
First off I do all my own work so labor isn't Included. But I can say that I easily put 25 hrs into removing , rebuilding and installing (More like 35-40 hours it seems) So the average shop in my area will get $2500 to do a similar job(central California). and that does not include parts.

Parts were from three locations

At XRs only/ I got good service and talked to someone who actually knew motorcycles (actually a rare thing these days)
I was happy to do business with them and purchased

Ross piston
Falicon rod kit (includes pin and bearing)
Hrc copy cam
My purchase here was $670.

Factory parts were purchased using a online catalog At Babbitts on line
They seem to have one of the best prices
Service is OK and parts arrive in less than 2 weeks
These parts include ALL ball and roller bearings in the engine, gaskets and seals.
Too many parts to list but cost to me $425

Lukes Racing is where I purchased Kibbles valves $26.00 each
and a timing chain
They know motorcycles too

Cost there $160

So my total parts $1245.
I admit that includes a few improvements
So Its not cheap to rebuild but is it worth it? "HELL YA"

But on a similar rebuild with a KTM or BMW the honda would seem cheap
Long live the XR650R
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:17 PM   #17698
Garthe
ROCKS ARE YOUR FRIENDS...
 
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Location: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
i'm gonna play devils advocate here...

The more radical the engine, the more heat is produced, the shorter engines last. Depending on what you use the bike for, i'd consider sticking with factory specs.

Increasing the bore and stroke, compression, and cam choice can often result in negative effects on long term reliability.

If i was building a true dual sport with emphasis on a honest performing engine capable of putting some miles down, i think i'd keep it as stock as possible.

+1
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:22 PM   #17699
mitchn06
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Location: SoDak
Oddometer: 522
Suspension Springs

Are suspension springs for our bikes still being manufactured or are they just harder to find in the stiffer rates, cuz if either one is the case i should probably snatch one up before its too late!
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:11 PM   #17700
Gunga Galunga
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Location: Northwest Back 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So I need to go in and talk to Jason and Andy, but it looks like with the amount of work that it needs for a rebuild, I either say fuck it, and take a $3500 bath in the bike and accessories I just bought, or I drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast. Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.
I agree with Sintax. I love fast anything, but I really am taking a hankering towards reliability. I enjoy spending money on other mods more. I can't tell you how to spend your money, but I have never gotten back out what I put into bikes. I accept that as a cost for my enjoyment. I say bite the bullet, still cheaper than swapping to orange. It's like trading gf's, they all have their issues.
On a positive note I got my bike fired up today and am going to take a little spin tomorrow. I still don't have all the electrical wrapped up though.
Good luck on whatever you decide, I still hope to hit the trail with you.
A couple weeks ago

Today
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Gunga Galunga screwed with this post 07-31-2013 at 08:34 PM Reason: edit
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