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Old 07-31-2013, 02:54 PM   #17686
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
the rad tanks will fit. you need to rotate the bottom and top pipes to fit. cut them off and re-weld in the right direction. sorry I haven't been of much help mate, where are you up to with the build?
Well, I'm momentarily stuck, sort of.
Digga, there's very few things I will actually put my cock on a block for, I love the bugger too much for that. But this is one of them: no ways this tank will fit with the std rads in the std position/mounting holes! (Edited: I do not mean the outlet(s), the bottom bin's in the way, actually the halves are somewhat lopsided, they differ in height)
The RHS is the culprit, the LHS is fine.
So, I have to mod the R-rad, modify the bottom 'bin' - but I'd rather not do that to the std rads, I'll get myself a dual-row set first. Of course that's also why Kasuyaho's post was a bingo-one, I'll get myself a set.
Also, the, again RHS-half, touches, oh hell, pushes hard on the floatchamber of the TM40, without some mild violence it simply will not fit.
But, there's good news too, which is that all these niggles are overcomeable (scroo Inlis 2 :). I've got some engine hangers/brackets drawn which, once lasercut, will help with all this.
So all will become well eventually.

Mind though, I have to re-route the oil-return line, as is it is in the way of the (yeah, again the RHS) bottom bolt trough the tank's hole. How did you do this? Pls send a pic to my email, would appreciate.
Also, the two top bolts 'clamping' the tank-halves will on my bike do just that - which means that the entire tank-assy will be only secured by the bottom two bolts. This is of course why I make these points sturdy, hence the new engine mountings. Again, how did you do this, the top bolts, they sit secured to the frame maybe? Piccie please 2 Mate, will really help even if I might do different.

BuRPsa screwed with this post 07-31-2013 at 03:26 PM
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:35 PM   #17687
rpmwfo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So I need to go in and talk to Jason and Andy, but it looks like with the amount of work that it needs for a rebuild, I either say fuck it, and take a $3500 bath in the bike and accessories I just bought, or I drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast. Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.
Go big. Bikes are like any hobby- you pour money into them for fun. You hardly ever get the money back out of them that you put in. A big bore XR would be a blast!
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:56 PM   #17688
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I'm gonna play devils advocate here...

The more radical the engine, the more heat is produced, the shorter engines last. Depending on what you use the bike for, I'd consider sticking with factory specs.

Increasing the bore and stroke, compression, and cam choice can often result in negative effects on long term reliability.

IF i was building a true dual sport with emphasis on a honest performing engine capable of putting some miles down, i think I'd keep it as stock as possible.
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:50 PM   #17689
stevh0
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Broke that off while struggling with the fuel line. How bad is it and can I leave it off? Seems to be a vacuum hose that vents downwards?
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:46 PM   #17690
Lostsaffa
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Just thought I would post this pic of the 1x build so far for those who haven't seen the build thread yet:



If anyone knows of a Johnny Campbell Signature (blue anodized) triple clamp for sale please, please, please get in touch
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:11 PM   #17691
FlyGuy
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Rebuild parts cost and suppliers

Well I see another crank has bit the dust, Sorry to hear.

I just went through my motor and thought I would share my experience.
First off I do all my own work so labor isn't Included. But I can say that I easily put 25 hrs into removing , rebuilding and installing (More like 35-40 hours it seems) So the average shop in my area will get $2500 to do a similar job(central California). and that does not include parts.

Parts were from three locations

At XRs only/ I got good service and talked to someone who actually knew motorcycles (actually a rare thing these days)
I was happy to do business with them and purchased

Ross piston
Falicon rod kit (includes pin and bearing)
Hrc copy cam
My purchase here was $670.

Factory parts were purchased using a online catalog At Babbitts on line
They seem to have one of the best prices
Service is OK and parts arrive in less than 2 weeks
These parts include ALL ball and roller bearings in the engine, gaskets and seals.
Too many parts to list but cost to me $425

Lukes Racing is where I purchased Kibbles valves $26.00 each
and a timing chain
They know motorcycles too

Cost there $160

So my total parts $1245.
I admit that includes a few improvements
So Its not cheap to rebuild but is it worth it? "HELL YA"

But on a similar rebuild with a KTM or BMW the honda would seem cheap
Long live the XR650R
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:17 PM   #17692
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
i'm gonna play devils advocate here...

The more radical the engine, the more heat is produced, the shorter engines last. Depending on what you use the bike for, i'd consider sticking with factory specs.

Increasing the bore and stroke, compression, and cam choice can often result in negative effects on long term reliability.

If i was building a true dual sport with emphasis on a honest performing engine capable of putting some miles down, i think i'd keep it as stock as possible.

+1
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:22 PM   #17693
mitchn06
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Suspension Springs

Are suspension springs for our bikes still being manufactured or are they just harder to find in the stiffer rates, cuz if either one is the case i should probably snatch one up before its too late!
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:11 PM   #17694
Gunga Galunga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
So it was the crank... Unfortunately I was also right as I blew my bottom end as well. cylinder needs re-sleeved, the valves are leaking, and all in all, it'll be around $1700 to get it all rebuilt and put back together...

So I need to go in and talk to Jason and Andy, but it looks like with the amount of work that it needs for a rebuild, I either say fuck it, and take a $3500 bath in the bike and accessories I just bought, or I drop another $2000 - $2200 to build it into a 685cc beast. Any thoughts? $5-$6k for more than a decade old dirt bike seems outrageous... But if it will last another decade after the build, then I may consider it.
I agree with Sintax. I love fast anything, but I really am taking a hankering towards reliability. I enjoy spending money on other mods more. I can't tell you how to spend your money, but I have never gotten back out what I put into bikes. I accept that as a cost for my enjoyment. I say bite the bullet, still cheaper than swapping to orange. It's like trading gf's, they all have their issues.
On a positive note I got my bike fired up today and am going to take a little spin tomorrow. I still don't have all the electrical wrapped up though.
Good luck on whatever you decide, I still hope to hit the trail with you.
A couple weeks ago

Today
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Gunga Galunga screwed with this post 07-31-2013 at 09:34 PM Reason: edit
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:22 PM   #17695
Gunga Galunga
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Location: Northwest Back 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
Just thought I would post this pic of the 1x build so far for those who haven't seen the build thread yet:



If anyone knows of a Johnny Campbell Signature (blue anodized) triple clamp for sale please, please, please get in touch
It is looking beautiful

You were the first person to know what the WR is, at least in mention. She is a bit girthy in the torque department, but she likes to dance.
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:59 AM   #17696
Lostsaffa
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Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunga Galunga View Post
It is looking beautiful

You were the first person to know what the WR is, at least in mention. She is a bit girthy in the torque department, but she likes to dance.
I would love a WR500, you're a lucky man to have both the XR and that. The power-band must be glorious!

If only they were road legal too (to ride in state forests here). There was an immaculate one here in Australia for sale recently and it was a tough one to resist buying on a whim
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:55 AM   #17697
digga1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Well, I'm momentarily stuck, sort of.
Digga, there's very few things I will actually put my cock on a block for, I love the bugger too much for that. But this is one of them: no ways this tank will fit with the std rads in the std position/mounting holes! (Edited: I do not mean the outlet(s), the bottom bin's in the way, actually the halves are somewhat lopsided, they differ in height)
The RHS is the culprit, the LHS is fine.
So, I have to mod the R-rad, modify the bottom 'bin' - but I'd rather not do that to the std rads, I'll get myself a dual-row set first. Of course that's also why Kasuyaho's post was a bingo-one, I'll get myself a set.
Also, the, again RHS-half, touches, oh hell, pushes hard on the floatchamber of the TM40, without some mild violence it simply will not fit.
But, there's good news too, which is that all these niggles are overcomeable (scroo Inlis 2 :). I've got some engine hangers/brackets drawn which, once lasercut, will help with all this.
So all will become well eventually.

Mind though, I have to re-route the oil-return line, as is it is in the way of the (yeah, again the RHS) bottom bolt trough the tank's hole. How did you do this? Pls send a pic to my email, would appreciate.
Also, the two top bolts 'clamping' the tank-halves will on my bike do just that - which means that the entire tank-assy will be only secured by the bottom two bolts. This is of course why I make these points sturdy, hence the new engine mountings. Again, how did you do this, the top bolts, they sit secured to the frame maybe? Piccie please 2 Mate, will really help even if I might do different.
trust me dude it fits. if it does not fit, stop what you are doing, cause your doing it wrong. I will try and take some picxs on the weekend. my top bolts secure the tanks also
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:19 AM   #17698
BuRPsa
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Location: Pretoria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
I will try and take some picxs on the weekend. my top bolts secure the tanks also
Right, that's me on hold then
Appreciate!!
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:17 AM   #17699
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
I'm gonna play devils advocate here...

The more radical the engine, the more heat is produced, the shorter engines last. Depending on what you use the bike for, I'd consider sticking with factory specs.

Increasing the bore and stroke, compression, and cam choice can often result in negative effects on long term reliability.

IF i was building a true dual sport with emphasis on a honest performing engine capable of putting some miles down, i think I'd keep it as stock as possible.
I'll add that it isn't often when I say to myself, "Gee, I wish this had more power..." That being said, more power on asphalt is always fun. But that means more wear-and-tear (if not tickets and accidents) on many things besides the engine. Transmission, chain, tires, brakes...they're all related. In comparison, as much as I love my 950, it has way too much power for most off-asphalt situations (except sand).
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:35 AM   #17700
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Right, that's me on hold then
Appreciate!!

Sorry I didn't get some pics earlier. I have been fighting with the wife, and I don't think a picture of my left radiator and 3.6 gallon tank will do much to help you.


I think my wife is going mental, or always was and maybe it is just coming out. It is hard to tell.
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