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Old 07-31-2013, 08:22 PM   #17701
Gunga Galunga
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Northwest Back 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
Just thought I would post this pic of the 1x build so far for those who haven't seen the build thread yet:



If anyone knows of a Johnny Campbell Signature (blue anodized) triple clamp for sale please, please, please get in touch
It is looking beautiful

You were the first person to know what the WR is, at least in mention. She is a bit girthy in the torque department, but she likes to dance.
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:59 AM   #17702
Lostsaffa
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Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunga Galunga View Post
It is looking beautiful

You were the first person to know what the WR is, at least in mention. She is a bit girthy in the torque department, but she likes to dance.
I would love a WR500, you're a lucky man to have both the XR and that. The power-band must be glorious!

If only they were road legal too (to ride in state forests here). There was an immaculate one here in Australia for sale recently and it was a tough one to resist buying on a whim
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:55 AM   #17703
digga1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Well, I'm momentarily stuck, sort of.
Digga, there's very few things I will actually put my cock on a block for, I love the bugger too much for that. But this is one of them: no ways this tank will fit with the std rads in the std position/mounting holes! (Edited: I do not mean the outlet(s), the bottom bin's in the way, actually the halves are somewhat lopsided, they differ in height)
The RHS is the culprit, the LHS is fine.
So, I have to mod the R-rad, modify the bottom 'bin' - but I'd rather not do that to the std rads, I'll get myself a dual-row set first. Of course that's also why Kasuyaho's post was a bingo-one, I'll get myself a set.
Also, the, again RHS-half, touches, oh hell, pushes hard on the floatchamber of the TM40, without some mild violence it simply will not fit.
But, there's good news too, which is that all these niggles are overcomeable (scroo Inlis 2 :). I've got some engine hangers/brackets drawn which, once lasercut, will help with all this.
So all will become well eventually.

Mind though, I have to re-route the oil-return line, as is it is in the way of the (yeah, again the RHS) bottom bolt trough the tank's hole. How did you do this? Pls send a pic to my email, would appreciate.
Also, the two top bolts 'clamping' the tank-halves will on my bike do just that - which means that the entire tank-assy will be only secured by the bottom two bolts. This is of course why I make these points sturdy, hence the new engine mountings. Again, how did you do this, the top bolts, they sit secured to the frame maybe? Piccie please 2 Mate, will really help even if I might do different.
trust me dude it fits. if it does not fit, stop what you are doing, cause your doing it wrong. I will try and take some picxs on the weekend. my top bolts secure the tanks also
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:19 AM   #17704
BuRPsa
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Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
I will try and take some picxs on the weekend. my top bolts secure the tanks also
Right, that's me on hold then
Appreciate!!
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:17 AM   #17705
Cpt. Ron
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Originally Posted by sintax View Post
I'm gonna play devils advocate here...

The more radical the engine, the more heat is produced, the shorter engines last. Depending on what you use the bike for, I'd consider sticking with factory specs.

Increasing the bore and stroke, compression, and cam choice can often result in negative effects on long term reliability.

IF i was building a true dual sport with emphasis on a honest performing engine capable of putting some miles down, i think I'd keep it as stock as possible.
I'll add that it isn't often when I say to myself, "Gee, I wish this had more power..." That being said, more power on asphalt is always fun. But that means more wear-and-tear (if not tickets and accidents) on many things besides the engine. Transmission, chain, tires, brakes...they're all related. In comparison, as much as I love my 950, it has way too much power for most off-asphalt situations (except sand).
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:35 AM   #17706
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Right, that's me on hold then
Appreciate!!

Sorry I didn't get some pics earlier. I have been fighting with the wife, and I don't think a picture of my left radiator and 3.6 gallon tank will do much to help you.


I think my wife is going mental, or always was and maybe it is just coming out. It is hard to tell.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:38 AM   #17707
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
I'll add that it isn't often when I say to myself, "Gee, I wish this had more power..." That being said, more power on asphalt is always fun. But that means more wear-and-tear (if not tickets and accidents) on many things besides the engine. Transmission, chain, tires, brakes...they're all related. In comparison, as much as I love my 950, it has way too much power for most off-asphalt situations (except sand).

After building my motor in to a 680 or whatever, I figure I use that extra power about 5% of the time in the dirt. Basically it only comes in to play on long straight roads or long sandy washes.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:26 AM   #17708
FlyGuy
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Location: Middle of Highway 1 California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
I'll add that it isn't often when I say to myself, "Gee, I wish this had more power..." That being said, more power on asphalt is always fun. But that means more wear-and-tear (if not tickets and accidents) on many things besides the engine. Transmission, chain, tires, brakes...they're all related. In comparison, as much as I love my 950, it has way too much power for most off-asphalt situations (except sand).
Angels advocate here


What you guys don't need no more stinking power?
Power robs you of reliability?
Power can kill ya?
Shit you might consider staying at home cause once you start your bike its losing reliability just being started.
LOL

If you need to rebuild from the crankshaft out what are you gona do ?
Stock crank? you cant buy a stock rod. So to remain stock you need to purchase a crank.
Or you can buy a Known better than stock rod for less than a new crankshaft (including installing it)
what ya gona do?
Valves same thing

OK I have two nearly identical XRs One has a stock uncorked motor The other has a higher performance motor. which Bike do I ride 97% of the time and make long trips on?

Reliability is relative to many things but the one thing we should agree upon is reliability relative to how much power is applied, And here is where more power and the ability to throttle has the advantage

I Have the ability to use the throttle and make that decision.

One other thing my modded bike gets better fuel mileage than the stock bike even with the same carburetor it is simply more efficient, its also smoother in output and easier to ride on slick hardpack.

Holy Shit my bike is too powerful any one want to sell there old cork parts.

Individualism is a great thing or we would all be the same. Do what you think is right for you, and you wont be able to to blame any one else.
And long live the XR650R stock or modded
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:08 AM   #17709
sintax
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Looking for input from Giant Loop Coyote users.


I'm mocking mine up for my trip next month and it looks like the right side front mounting strap looks crazy close to the header pipe. Does anyone have any issues with it melting the strap? I know that pipe gets way hot.

Am I worrying about something I dont need to?
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #17710
jules083
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Location: Richmond, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Looking for input from Giant Loop Coyote users.


I'm mocking mine up for my trip next month and it looks like the right side front mounting strap looks crazy close to the header pipe. Does anyone have any issues with it melting the strap? I know that pipe gets way hot.

Am I worrying about something I dont need to?
I run my strap different on that side. Lower I think, I can double check when I get home. Look around a bit, there's a spot there somewhere.

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Old 08-01-2013, 02:11 PM   #17711
PeteN95
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Location: Muk, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunga Galunga View Post
You were the first person to know what the WR is, at least in mention. She is a bit girthy in the torque department, but she likes to dance.
I miss my WR500, it was a handful, but a lot of fun. And it could do almost anything, I even road raced it! Here it is in flat track mode.

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Old 08-01-2013, 04:05 PM   #17712
Shibby!
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Location: Currently - Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Looking for input from Giant Loop Coyote users.


I'm mocking mine up for my trip next month and it looks like the right side front mounting strap looks crazy close to the header pipe. Does anyone have any issues with it melting the strap? I know that pipe gets way hot.

Am I worrying about something I dont need to?

No issues.

Wrap it around that cross beam and avoid the brake line.

I run the FMF Powerbomb header which is paper thin and gives off a ton of heat. Never had an issue.
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:07 PM   #17713
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
No issues.

Wrap it around that cross beam and avoid the brake line.

I run the FMF Powerbomb header which is paper thin and gives off a ton of heat. Never had an issue.
Ok sounds good.

I'm running the full PC.
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:30 PM   #17714
tannerc
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Location: SOuth dakOTA
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Question Question

I swapped out my clutch for aftermarket steels and fibers. A while late I started to get the clutch noise/howl at idle that disappears when you pull in the clutch. The pressure plate bearing appears to be fine, the steels and fibers still appear new. I cant figure out what would be causing the noise. Also I was playing with the basket and noticed a little play/wiggle/wobble to it is this normal?

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Old 08-01-2013, 07:49 PM   #17715
Stonethrowa
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Australia
Oddometer: 21
Fork Guards

Has anyone had neoprene fork guards on there XR if so any issues
If not which size worked best ,Thanks for any help in advance.
As to the last post will be watching closely as mine makes rattly noise when cold but not with clutch pulled in then get better as it warms up,
Hope its nothing serious
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