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Old 08-01-2013, 11:08 AM   #17701
sintax
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Looking for input from Giant Loop Coyote users.


I'm mocking mine up for my trip next month and it looks like the right side front mounting strap looks crazy close to the header pipe. Does anyone have any issues with it melting the strap? I know that pipe gets way hot.

Am I worrying about something I dont need to?
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #17702
jules083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Looking for input from Giant Loop Coyote users.


I'm mocking mine up for my trip next month and it looks like the right side front mounting strap looks crazy close to the header pipe. Does anyone have any issues with it melting the strap? I know that pipe gets way hot.

Am I worrying about something I dont need to?
I run my strap different on that side. Lower I think, I can double check when I get home. Look around a bit, there's a spot there somewhere.

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Old 08-01-2013, 02:11 PM   #17703
PeteN95
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Originally Posted by Gunga Galunga View Post
You were the first person to know what the WR is, at least in mention. She is a bit girthy in the torque department, but she likes to dance.
I miss my WR500, it was a handful, but a lot of fun. And it could do almost anything, I even road raced it! Here it is in flat track mode.

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Old 08-01-2013, 04:05 PM   #17704
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Looking for input from Giant Loop Coyote users.


I'm mocking mine up for my trip next month and it looks like the right side front mounting strap looks crazy close to the header pipe. Does anyone have any issues with it melting the strap? I know that pipe gets way hot.

Am I worrying about something I dont need to?

No issues.

Wrap it around that cross beam and avoid the brake line.

I run the FMF Powerbomb header which is paper thin and gives off a ton of heat. Never had an issue.
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:07 PM   #17705
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
No issues.

Wrap it around that cross beam and avoid the brake line.

I run the FMF Powerbomb header which is paper thin and gives off a ton of heat. Never had an issue.
Ok sounds good.

I'm running the full PC.
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:30 PM   #17706
tannerc
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Question Question

I swapped out my clutch for aftermarket steels and fibers. A while late I started to get the clutch noise/howl at idle that disappears when you pull in the clutch. The pressure plate bearing appears to be fine, the steels and fibers still appear new. I cant figure out what would be causing the noise. Also I was playing with the basket and noticed a little play/wiggle/wobble to it is this normal?

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Old 08-01-2013, 07:49 PM   #17707
Stonethrowa
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Location: Australia
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Fork Guards

Has anyone had neoprene fork guards on there XR if so any issues
If not which size worked best ,Thanks for any help in advance.
As to the last post will be watching closely as mine makes rattly noise when cold but not with clutch pulled in then get better as it warms up,
Hope its nothing serious
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #17708
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonethrowa View Post
Has anyone had neoprene fork guards on there XR if so any issues
If not which size worked best ,Thanks for any help in advance.
As to the last post will be watching closely as mine makes rattly noise when cold but not with clutch pulled in then get better as it warms up,
Hope its nothing serious
They work great! Just get the long ones any diameter should work.

Conventional fork seals are tough by design, I've only had to clean mine and never replaced them. The neoprene boots keep them as good as the rubber stock ones imo.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:58 PM   #17709
Twatwaffle
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Hey guys. New owner of a 2000 650R here. About 6 years of sportriding but no real time in the dirt. Previous owner uncorked the bike, but no modifications otherwise. Admittedly, I was going for a newer KTM but the deal on this was too good to pass up. I've just got a couple questions before I start throwing money at it:


1. At 5'11" and 170 with about a 30" inseam, I've been trying to figure out the basics regarding riding posture, and getting used to standing up while riding. I'm not really sure what the norm is for dirt-oriented dualsports/dirtbikes in general, but I feel like I'm either leaning too far back, and subsequently pulling back on the handlebars, or I'm too far forward, and pushing down on the bars. I try to grip the forward part of the seat and back of the tank with my knees, but it seems like I'm too far forward on the bike when I'm doing this, and my waist and shoulders are well forward of my feet. And a huge point of concern is the bars themselves....they feel like they're way too low, even for my 'average' height. Even with my knees bent and torso forward, I feel like I'm grabbing down by my waist, and it's impossible to get my forearms far from a near-vertical angle. I'm looking at some new fatbars from Pro-Taper, but am not sure what bend to go with (I'd like to keep the stock cables for now). This leads into the second problem:


2. I've realized pretty quick that I've gotta get the suspension sorted - make sure sag, comp and rebound are all set for my weight, and replace the 'whale snot'. That being said, I've noticed that this bike suffers from some pretty serious headshake in pretty much all riding at speed on anything other than hardpack. As such, I'm already looking at either a Scotts or GPR stabilizer. Seeing as I'm a cheap bastard, I'd like to grab a used stabilizer off ebay/the flea market over the winter. I'm just wondering what the cheapest/easiest way of mounting it up would be...and something compatible with Protaper fatbars. Any recommendations? I see RSW makes an upper triple with holes for a Scotts stabilizer, but I don't know what other hardware is required. Is there a top mount solution that would work with the OEM triple and not set me back a quarter of what I paid for the bike itself? Before I go and buy the bars and a fatbar adapter for the OEM top triple, I'd like to make sure I'm picking the right stuff that's going to be compatible with a stabilizer in the near future.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:16 PM   #17710
jules083
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Raise the bars somehow. I run atv high right now, probably switching to cr high with risors over the winter.

New riders sit too much normally. Get used to standing up, you generally have more control.

If your suspension is correct, tires have air, and nothing is crooked the xr should not have headshake. I've has mine on many different trails at many different speeds and never had a bit of twitch even. It's probably the most stable bike I've ever ridden. The bike was built for high speed dessert racing.

Your year has a potential for clutch bushing problems. I'd probably put the newer style bushing in for piece of mind. Apparently it can cause major problems if it fails.

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Old 08-01-2013, 09:21 PM   #17711
OR Trail
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[QUOTE=

2. I've realized pretty quick that I've gotta get the suspension sorted - make sure sag, comp and rebound are all set for my weight, and replace the 'whale snot'. That being said, I've noticed that this bike suffers from some pretty serious headshake in pretty much all riding at speed on anything other than hardpack. As such, I'm already looking at either a Scotts or GPR stabilizer. [/QUOTE]

The big XR is pretty stable and head shake is bad. You may want to find out why instead of trying to mask it (get the damper after the bike is sorted). You mentioned getting sag correct, geometry can be a factor. How are the steering head bearings? Wheels true? Front tire running true and balanced? Dragging brake rotor?
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:30 PM   #17712
MingRidesBikes
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thanks for all the replies. It's such a hard decision only because I'm tight on budget right now... Question is, what's the difference between a rebuilt crank from XR's only vs the stock crank in the bike? What says the crank won't go out again?


As a feeler, any parts off an XR you guys need?
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:35 PM   #17713
Twatwaffle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
The big XR is pretty stable and head shake is bad. You may want to find out why instead of trying to mask it (get the damper after the bike is sorted). You mentioned getting sag correct, geometry can be a factor. How are the steering head bearings? Wheels true? Front tire running true and balanced? Dragging brake rotor?

I guess I should elaborate...no headshake on pavement or nicely packed dirt roads, but when there's loose stuff forming grooves from 4 wheel traffic it can get pretty bad. I'll definitely start playing with the suspension a bit and see if I can work it out.


Any recommendations on bar bends? I see a lot of people going with CR High, but not much detail regarding these rider's height.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:45 PM   #17714
Trl Rdr
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My 2 XR's don't shake, not even a quiver between 1-95 mph. Check the items in the post above.

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Old 08-01-2013, 10:12 PM   #17715
Gunga Galunga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonethrowa View Post
Has anyone had neoprene fork guards on there XR if so any issues
If not which size worked best ,Thanks for any help in advance.
As to the last post will be watching closely as mine makes rattly noise when cold but not with clutch pulled in then get better as it warms up,
Hope its nothing serious
I just got some but haven't put them on yet as I want to service the forks at the same time. I hear you need to keep the forks clean under the guards to avoid abrasion.

TannerC
On the clutch noise, I assume the fibers were presoaked in oil? Sorry, I don't know about the movement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
I miss my WR500, it was a handful, but a lot of fun. And it could do almost anything, I even road raced it! Here it is in flat track mode.
Pete and 95, awesome! I completely rebuilt it, sold it to a friend, and was lucky enough to buy it back, albeit not in the same condition, Next project!
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