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Old 08-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #17716
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonethrowa View Post
Has anyone had neoprene fork guards on there XR if so any issues
If not which size worked best ,Thanks for any help in advance.
As to the last post will be watching closely as mine makes rattly noise when cold but not with clutch pulled in then get better as it warms up,
Hope its nothing serious
They work great! Just get the long ones any diameter should work.

Conventional fork seals are tough by design, I've only had to clean mine and never replaced them. The neoprene boots keep them as good as the rubber stock ones imo.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:58 PM   #17717
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Hey guys. New owner of a 2000 650R here. About 6 years of sportriding but no real time in the dirt. Previous owner uncorked the bike, but no modifications otherwise. Admittedly, I was going for a newer KTM but the deal on this was too good to pass up. I've just got a couple questions before I start throwing money at it:


1. At 5'11" and 170 with about a 30" inseam, I've been trying to figure out the basics regarding riding posture, and getting used to standing up while riding. I'm not really sure what the norm is for dirt-oriented dualsports/dirtbikes in general, but I feel like I'm either leaning too far back, and subsequently pulling back on the handlebars, or I'm too far forward, and pushing down on the bars. I try to grip the forward part of the seat and back of the tank with my knees, but it seems like I'm too far forward on the bike when I'm doing this, and my waist and shoulders are well forward of my feet. And a huge point of concern is the bars themselves....they feel like they're way too low, even for my 'average' height. Even with my knees bent and torso forward, I feel like I'm grabbing down by my waist, and it's impossible to get my forearms far from a near-vertical angle. I'm looking at some new fatbars from Pro-Taper, but am not sure what bend to go with (I'd like to keep the stock cables for now). This leads into the second problem:


2. I've realized pretty quick that I've gotta get the suspension sorted - make sure sag, comp and rebound are all set for my weight, and replace the 'whale snot'. That being said, I've noticed that this bike suffers from some pretty serious headshake in pretty much all riding at speed on anything other than hardpack. As such, I'm already looking at either a Scotts or GPR stabilizer. Seeing as I'm a cheap bastard, I'd like to grab a used stabilizer off ebay/the flea market over the winter. I'm just wondering what the cheapest/easiest way of mounting it up would be...and something compatible with Protaper fatbars. Any recommendations? I see RSW makes an upper triple with holes for a Scotts stabilizer, but I don't know what other hardware is required. Is there a top mount solution that would work with the OEM triple and not set me back a quarter of what I paid for the bike itself? Before I go and buy the bars and a fatbar adapter for the OEM top triple, I'd like to make sure I'm picking the right stuff that's going to be compatible with a stabilizer in the near future.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:16 PM   #17718
jules083
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Raise the bars somehow. I run atv high right now, probably switching to cr high with risors over the winter.

New riders sit too much normally. Get used to standing up, you generally have more control.

If your suspension is correct, tires have air, and nothing is crooked the xr should not have headshake. I've has mine on many different trails at many different speeds and never had a bit of twitch even. It's probably the most stable bike I've ever ridden. The bike was built for high speed dessert racing.

Your year has a potential for clutch bushing problems. I'd probably put the newer style bushing in for piece of mind. Apparently it can cause major problems if it fails.

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Old 08-01-2013, 09:21 PM   #17719
OR Trail
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[QUOTE=

2. I've realized pretty quick that I've gotta get the suspension sorted - make sure sag, comp and rebound are all set for my weight, and replace the 'whale snot'. That being said, I've noticed that this bike suffers from some pretty serious headshake in pretty much all riding at speed on anything other than hardpack. As such, I'm already looking at either a Scotts or GPR stabilizer. [/QUOTE]

The big XR is pretty stable and head shake is bad. You may want to find out why instead of trying to mask it (get the damper after the bike is sorted). You mentioned getting sag correct, geometry can be a factor. How are the steering head bearings? Wheels true? Front tire running true and balanced? Dragging brake rotor?
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:30 PM   #17720
MingRidesBikes
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thanks for all the replies. It's such a hard decision only because I'm tight on budget right now... Question is, what's the difference between a rebuilt crank from XR's only vs the stock crank in the bike? What says the crank won't go out again?


As a feeler, any parts off an XR you guys need?
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:35 PM   #17721
Twatwaffle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
The big XR is pretty stable and head shake is bad. You may want to find out why instead of trying to mask it (get the damper after the bike is sorted). You mentioned getting sag correct, geometry can be a factor. How are the steering head bearings? Wheels true? Front tire running true and balanced? Dragging brake rotor?

I guess I should elaborate...no headshake on pavement or nicely packed dirt roads, but when there's loose stuff forming grooves from 4 wheel traffic it can get pretty bad. I'll definitely start playing with the suspension a bit and see if I can work it out.


Any recommendations on bar bends? I see a lot of people going with CR High, but not much detail regarding these rider's height.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:45 PM   #17722
Trl Rdr
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My 2 XR's don't shake, not even a quiver between 1-95 mph. Check the items in the post above.

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Old 08-01-2013, 10:12 PM   #17723
Gunga Galunga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonethrowa View Post
Has anyone had neoprene fork guards on there XR if so any issues
If not which size worked best ,Thanks for any help in advance.
As to the last post will be watching closely as mine makes rattly noise when cold but not with clutch pulled in then get better as it warms up,
Hope its nothing serious
I just got some but haven't put them on yet as I want to service the forks at the same time. I hear you need to keep the forks clean under the guards to avoid abrasion.

TannerC
On the clutch noise, I assume the fibers were presoaked in oil? Sorry, I don't know about the movement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
I miss my WR500, it was a handful, but a lot of fun. And it could do almost anything, I even road raced it! Here it is in flat track mode.
Pete and 95, awesome! I completely rebuilt it, sold it to a friend, and was lucky enough to buy it back, albeit not in the same condition, Next project!
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:15 PM   #17724
OR Trail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twatwaffle View Post
I guess I should elaborate...no headshake on pavement or nicely packed dirt roads, but when there's loose stuff forming grooves from 4 wheel traffic it can get pretty bad. I'll definitely start playing with the suspension a bit and see if I can work it out.


Any recommendations on bar bends? I see a lot of people going with CR High, but not much detail regarding these rider's height.
Also check if your forks are slid down in the triple clamps, which steepens the head angle (twitchier). If the front is sprung too soft vs the rear it can have the same effect. Too tight a (hand) grip on the bars can amplify the effects in loose stuff too.

I like to find a comfortable bar then move it around with (Rox) risers. Try a few on other people's bikes, or buy used to resell if/when you guess wrong. I'm super tall so no help there for your size. Risers are something to think about with top vs under mount dampers.
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Old 08-02-2013, 06:46 AM   #17725
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
I swapped out my clutch for aftermarket steels and fibers. A while late I started to get the clutch noise/howl at idle that disappears when you pull in the clutch. The pressure plate bearing appears to be fine, the steels and fibers still appear new. I cant figure out what would be causing the noise. Also I was playing with the basket and noticed a little play/wiggle/wobble to it is this normal?

what year is your bike Tanner? if its one of the first two years it could be the older style clutch bushing?
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:41 AM   #17726
tannerc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunga Galunga View Post
.

TannerC
On the clutch noise, I assume the fibers were presoaked in oil? Sorry, I don't know about the movement.

Yeah everything was soaked in new oil, about a week before I could get around to installing it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
what year is your bike tanner? If its one of the first two years it could be the older style clutch bushing?

2003
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:51 AM   #17727
mitchn06
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http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...TCH/parts.html

if you look at this diagram, it looks like the only thing that would allow the basket to wiggle like that would be the clutch bushing.
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:57 AM   #17728
tannerc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...TCH/parts.html

if you look at this diagram, it looks like the only thing that would allow the basket to wiggle like that would be the clutch bushing.

Thats what I thought, bad bushing. I ran into a post some where that said there is supposed to be a bit of play in the basket.
I figured I would check here before unstaking and ordering a bushing.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:20 AM   #17729
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
Thats what I thought, bad bushing. I ran into a post some where that said there is supposed to be a bit of play in the basket.
I figured I would check here before unstaking and ordering a bushing.


The howl is because the inner and outer basket fingers are hammered...like done, junk. See all those neat little indentations where the clutch fingers engage the basket fingers? Yeah, they're not supposed to be there.

Get a Hinson outer basket and a new Honda inner hub. If money is tight you can file/sand the ridges out and get some more life out of it.

The in/out basket play is normal, but a new bushing won't hurt.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:23 AM   #17730
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
Also I was playing with the basket and noticed a little play/wiggle/wobble to it is this normal?
I don't think so, hunch it's the bush if not the internal rubber cushions (cush).
I'd check the bush first, and a new one won't hurt anyway. If it's the cush blocks then bad news...
But wait until Larryboy chimes in, I know he's swapped his basket for a Hinson already.




As a totally unrelated remark, Thanks2Those who help me, either here or via PM. Much appreciated, it shows this forum is attended by a breed of very international pals indeed
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