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Old 08-11-2013, 11:05 AM   #17806
WunderfulLusterful
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Pete, let me get this correct:
- this fits into the clutch if you (I would think) take a few plates out and put this in?
- when done this will 'auto-operate' the clutch PLUS still leaves the normal manual operation present?

Yes, you replace 2 or 3 steels and friction plates with this plate. From what I read, the clutch lever will still disengage the clutch but obviously it will not engage it. They say that the disengagement "area" is always in a different spot depending on engine rpm. I have been looking locally for a Rekluse-equipped bike to test out before I drop the coin on one. Reviews on the EXP have all been very positive.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:14 AM   #17807
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Originally Posted by bigkuri View Post
After I stopped I checked the oil level again, and it was about 4cm from end of dip stick.

Asides from the rattle terrible noise it was actually running ok. There was no sign of tight exhaust valves or anything.

Any guesses? I figure either:
A. Ran low on oil and I've cooked the head, tappet's, cams etc. But as said, the oil was reading mid to low, but not at all near empty?
B. The last service didn't tighten the tappet lock nut, and it's come off
C. Something loose in decompression assembly?

I had this happen to my 2000 two years ago. Same symptoms as you describe. I ended up having to do the cam, rockers and tappets. I lucked out and catch it before it took out the wrist pin or crank. I did the rings, timing chain, timing guides, valve seals and a few other small parts all at the same time. I did find that my intake valves were worn out too. I put another 1000 miles on those valves before I had to do the head rebuild too. Just be prepared for the cam, rockers and cam bearings to need replaced. I didn't replace the cam bearing with the rest of the parts but not ever 20 miles after the rebuild the bearings came apart. They are cheap, like $12 each so it is well worth it because you know they were starved of oil too.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:32 AM   #17808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WunderfulLusterful View Post
I had this happen to my 2000 two years ago. Same symptoms as you describe. I ended up having to do the cam, rockers and tappets. I lucked out and catch it before it took out the wrist pin or crank. I did the rings, timing chain, timing guides, valve seals and a few other small parts all at the same time. I did find that my intake valves were worn out too. I put another 1000 miles on those valves before I had to do the head rebuild too. Just be prepared for the cam, rockers and cam bearings to need replaced. I didn't replace the cam bearing with the rest of the parts but not ever 20 miles after the rebuild the bearings came apart. They are cheap, like $12 each so it is well worth it because you know they were starved of oil too.

many thanks. That's what I figure....
Will see in a few days when my mechanic is back! So frustrating not knowing, but I know as ex mech that it's so much better getting the whole job and not a partially stripped bike :-)
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:49 AM   #17809
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Originally Posted by bigkuri View Post
many thanks. That's what I figure....
Will see in a few days when my mechanic is back! So frustrating not knowing, but I know as ex mech that it's so much better getting the whole job and not a partially stripped bike :-)


You can pull the valve covers off and look in there. You can see the lobes of the cam, if they are no smooth and shiny then you will need a cam. If they are rough at all, the cam is junk as are the rockets. You can have your old rockers hard-surfaced and reground. There is a guy on ebay that does it for around $180 which is the same price of a new set of 3 rockers.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:52 AM   #17810
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Also, another quick way to inspect things is to pull the oil filter and look between the pleats. If there are chunks or alot of metal debris there is some internal damage. The oil that is in the bike will tell you the whole story of what is going on.




This is what you will more than likely find in there, note the discoloration of the "follower" end of the rocket.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=3668

WunderfulLusterful screwed with this post 08-11-2013 at 12:00 PM
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:58 AM   #17811
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Thanks! But not in England! Cheaper here to buy new :( We just don't have the shop mechanics you guys have :(

I gave lifted many heads, just a bit bummed as just bought the damned thing....
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:59 AM   #17812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WunderfulLusterful View Post
Also, another quick way to inspect things is to pull the oil filter and look between the pleats. If there are chunks or alot of metal debris there is some internal damage. The oil that is in the bike will tell you the whole story of what is going on.
Thanks! Great idea :)
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:02 PM   #17813
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Originally Posted by bigkuri View Post
Thanks! But not in England! Cheaper here to buy new :( We just don't have the shop mechanics you guys have :(

I gave lifted many heads, just a bit bummed as just bought the damned thing....

Opps, I didn't notice you were in England.
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:02 PM   #17814
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XR650R Thread!

In idahoe and my exhaust (muffler ) on my big gun system is fucked. Anybody out here got a shop or a spare sparky/muffler that may fit on the headers? Thanks!!!


Edit: twin falls area ,
MSE mobile
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:58 PM   #17815
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just a question for all the BRP experts on here.
I have a 2005 xrr and it seems to have a bit of a stumble at low throttle (cruising and not using much throttle), It also has quite a bit of popping on deceleration. Could this be running a bit lean?
I just got the bike about a month ago and haven't torn into it to much yet, (having too much fun riding it!) but it has been uncorked (hrc tip and air box mods) and all the smog stuff has be removed. The p.o said there was some "go fast" parts in the engine but didn't know what had been done. Is it normal to get popping with this exhaust set-up,
Any ideas on the stumble would be helpful its getting kinda annoying (throws you forward a bit kinda like you just closed off the throttle completely.) Only happens at 1/4 throttle or less
thanks again
Kris
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:03 PM   #17816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Pete, let me get this correct:
- this fits into the clutch if you (I would think) take a few plates out and put this in?
- when done this will 'auto-operate' the clutch PLUS still leaves the normal manual operation present?
Correct, just remove 2-3 plates and install the Rekluse unit.
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:49 AM   #17817
stevh0
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Can anybody comment on the maxxis it front tire on the brp? I want to take the mitas xt644 off and put that on my adventure instead.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:18 AM   #17818
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Which tires? Desert IT rear tire is awesome! Front... not my favorite.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:42 AM   #17819
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Which tires? Desert IT rear tire is awesome!
Jesus, that's what I read so bought one. It chuncked knobs in one day riding, and after 3 of those it still is usable... but it's also my last, won't consider it again. Maybe good in soft stuff, but show it harder stuff and it greets farewell on sight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
Correct, just remove 2-3 plates and install the Rekluse unit.
Thanks, and we know you are a diehard supporter of these auto clutches. Is this what you've got or got the full kit (name escapes me), rear brake instead of clutch etc?
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:07 AM   #17820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Which tires? Desert IT rear tire is awesome! Front... not my favorite.

I have the rear too, but Im sure my BRP will destroy it. Might run it for fun though.


Right now im happy with my C02. Its been really impressive.

Might run the E09 Dakar (excuse my 950) next time

but for now, this is pretty good.
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