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Old 09-29-2013, 11:57 AM   #18241
Bench Racer
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Location: BEND Oregon
Oddometer: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Nope, you leave the idle system well alone, in fact I'd revert to the 68S again.
You need to change the main, obviously, as anything above ~1/8 throttle is fed by this jet. Run rich? Smaller main, and vice versa. And, only when you've got the main ballpark you start fiddling with the needleclip, as this thing only finetunes.
Before all though, clean airfilter, clean tank, fuel filter, clean carb with correct float level set is what you make sure of.
Thanks for the help. I changed the main from a 168 to a 162. What a difference. It runs great. I changed the pilot back to the 65s too. It did help with the idle. The bike sounds good and runs strong.
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:50 PM   #18242
1bigrn
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Carb running out of fuel. After 600-700 meters.

I put the stock carb back in today after pulling out the Mikuni. The stock carb fired straight up and idle quite well once the air/fuel and the idle adjustment was massaged.
Once I took it for a short ride it powered up well and pulled like it should. However within 600-700 meters (straight line, paved asphalt) it began to bog and eventually stall like it was running out of fuel.

I was thinking that perhaps the float valve was sticking and not allowing in fuel or the petcock/fuel line has some sort of obstruction.
What does the group think?
Anyone had a similar issue?
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:35 PM   #18243
KustomizingKid
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Does anyone else have gearing recomendations for dual sport usage?
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:41 PM   #18244
jm-2008
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[QUOTE=1bigrn;22440960]I put the stock carb back in today after pulling out the Mikuni. The stock carb fired straight up and idle quite well once the air/fuel and the idle adjustment was massaged.
Once I took it for a short ride it powered up well and pulled like it should. However within 600-700 meters (straight line, paved asphalt) it began to bog and eventually stall like it was running out of fuel.

I was thinking that perhaps the float valve was sticking and not allowing in fuel or the petcock/fuel line has some sort of obstruction.
What does the group think?
Anyone had a similar issue?


Basics,
  1. Check fuel flow out the carby supply hose
  2. Check fuel tank breather hose
  3. Remove rubber seal under the fuel tank cap and check breather passages are clear
  4. Check carby float bowl breather hoses are not blocked or kinked (cut an inch or so off their length to ensure no blockages)
  5. Check fuel filter (if you have one)
Regards,

JM-2008
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:52 PM   #18245
lstzephyr
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Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
Does anyone else have gearing recomendations for dual sport usage?
I like 15/48 or 45. The 48 is for more dirt, 45 for less dirt.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:30 PM   #18246
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
I like 15/48 or 45. The 48 is for more dirt, 45 for less dirt.
That's about what I use most frequently. Or 14/45 for quicker changes I only have the 14/15 front and 45/48 rear. So I just use those combos


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Old 09-30-2013, 07:29 AM   #18247
bigtrailie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocAxeYarYar View Post
Ive been running the Globetrottin subframe and its worked out well.

http://www.globetrottin.com/Steel-su...650R_p_16.html


The subframe held up well, happy with it!




I could be wrong on this one, but I recall a few years back someone posted a problem with using the steel subframe. The extra rigidity of the subframe caused the mounting points in the Aluminum main frame to crack. Am I all wet here? I've been resisting the move to a steel sub-frame for this reason.
I hope I'm wrong.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:48 AM   #18248
xr6
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Giant loop mojavi + rear rack?

Hi!

I have a "Moto Pro Billet" rear rack on my BRP.

I donīt really like carrying to much weight on the rack because of weight distribution issues + that fact that i have problems putting my leg over the beast at technical woods riding .

I like what I have read concerning the The Giant Loop Mojavi.

1. Will It work together with my rack? (havent seen picutres of Mojavi + rear rack)

2. I, like most BRP owners, have done some drilling in the left side panel, will the Mojavi bag cover this holes?
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:48 AM   #18249
FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtrailie View Post
I could be wrong on this one, but I recall a few years back someone posted a problem with using the steel subframe. The extra rigidity of the subframe caused the mounting points in the Aluminum main frame to crack. Am I all wet here? I've been resisting the move to a steel sub-frame for this reason.
I hope I'm wrong.
You are correct.
In the case of an accident type load the extra stiffness can greatly increase the potential to break the casting on the right side of the frame more so as the stiffness of the sub frame increases.

And while repairing cast aluminum is Doable, It usually is always less structural than before. Possibly rendering your frame useless.

I don't crash often but when I do its usually hard, for that reason I stuck with the stock sub frame.

I would rather replace a sub frame than the main frame.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:17 PM   #18250
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
Thanks guys!

I don't really understand the usefulness of the stock looking sub frame. Ok, it's steel. But, you can't tie in a pannier system to it. Now the sub frame with the rack over the rear fender. That at least looks like you could tie in a pannier systen to the sub frame.

Am I missing something...?

At one time he offered bolt on side racks that were nearly perfect for Wolfman luggage. That's what I have.

I used both the Wolfman and Coyote on my trip.
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Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 09-30-2013, 03:41 PM   #18251
digga1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyGuy View Post
You are correct.
In the case of an accident type load the extra stiffness can greatly increase the potential to break the casting on the right side of the frame more so as the stiffness of the sub frame increases.

And while repairing cast aluminum is Doable, It usually is always less structural than before. Possibly rendering your frame useless.

I don't crash often but when I do its usually hard, for that reason I stuck with the stock sub frame.

I would rather replace a sub frame than the main frame.
the steel bracing in the top legs of the sub frame is specifically placed to ensure any load put forward to the main frame is directly inline, greatly reducing the possibility of a frame breakage.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:50 PM   #18252
jimmyx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xr6 View Post
Hi!

I have a "Moto Pro Billet" rear rack on my BRP.

I donīt really like carrying to much weight on the rack because of weight distribution issues + that fact that i have problems putting my leg over the beast at technical woods riding .

I like what I have read concerning the The Giant Loop Mojavi.

1. Will It work together with my rack? (havent seen picutres of Mojavi + rear rack)

2. I, like most BRP owners, have done some drilling in the left side panel, will the Mojavi bag cover this holes?
I had the same rack on my pig, Personally I didn't like it with the GL bags, GL did their homework, the bags work great on dirt-bikes. I have the Coyote and mojavi and Man- Racks rear fender/ subframe brace?( bags work fine without it though). Pm me your email and I'll shoot you some pic's if you want. ADVrider is not letting me post photos for some reason.

Jim
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:08 PM   #18253
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
At one time he offered bolt on side racks that were nearly perfect for Wolfman luggage. That's what I have.

I used both the Wolfman and Coyote on my trip.
Pictures of combined set up, please...
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:15 PM   #18254
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtrailie View Post
I could be wrong on this one, but I recall a few years back someone posted a problem with using the steel subframe. The extra rigidity of the subframe caused the mounting points in the Aluminum main frame to crack. Am I all wet here? I've been resisting the move to a steel sub-frame for this reason.
I hope I'm wrong.
That sounds possible. But, I'm no engineer. I'm never going to camp off the bike. So, it's hotel for me. That means the GL bags that I have will work.

I'm planning a BMW HPN build. That bike will have hard luggage on it.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:34 AM   #18255
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
Pictures of combined set up, please...

Pictures in my "Go, Get Lost - Heading South" ride report on the sig. Weight and packing was revised (or lost) in Baja, but I think there are some pictures of the racks, etc.

Currently I just have the subframe mounted and the bolt on racks are off. If I end up selling my XRR, the whole set-up will be for sale. No idea if and when that would happen though. I'd part everything aftermarket on the bike and just sell XRR stock.
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Tour of Idaho T1 Challenge - https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php...551f1642711d75
Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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