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Old 09-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #18241
digga1111
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: wynnum
Oddometer: 3,305
http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgu...ed=0CD4Q9QEwAw
chalk and cheese if you ask me
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[QUOTE=troy safari carpente;24254589]
... the XR is the greatest off road motorcycle ever constructed. There's nothing it can't do, hasn't won or will not outperform.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:37 PM   #18242
Lostsaffa
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
Couldn't agree more! I haven't seen either in the flesh but this one seems far insuperior on finish and strength. Personally I would expect to pay more than the globetrottin if they were sat on a shelf side by side.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:28 PM   #18243
hontri
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Summerland B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
No inmate listed, for that name.
Here:http://www.globetrottin.com/Steel-su...650R_p_16.html
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:15 PM   #18244
Garthe
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Arizona
Oddometer: 4,298
Thanks guys!

I don't really understand the usefulness of the stock looking sub frame. Ok, it's steel. But, you can't tie in a pannier system to it. Now the sub frame with the rack over the rear fender. That at least looks like you could tie in a pannier systen to the sub frame.

Am I missing something...?

Garthe screwed with this post 09-27-2013 at 10:22 PM
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:53 PM   #18245
digga1111
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Location: wynnum
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the point is.... with the steel sub frame, you can do what ever you want
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[QUOTE=troy safari carpente;24254589]
... the XR is the greatest off road motorcycle ever constructed. There's nothing it can't do, hasn't won or will not outperform.
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:05 AM   #18246
Sean-0
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Oztraya Mate
Oddometer: 4,175
globe trotters and the 1 we have are nothing alike .....the Aussie frame is plug and play exact copy of the stock frame trotters is a lil different ....
cost ....you get what you pay for considering the stock part from Honda is quite expensive and has weak points they twist and snap .....I spent 3 weeks in our hardarsed land loaded up and rode 7,000miles ...cartwheeled my bike and didn't even tweak that subframe ...as for adding pannier supports to it .it would be a simple job as its steel..so easy to weld

I have tried panniers of different types and loading options ....I got myself a giantloop coyote best system I have used on this bike yet and no need for pannier racks

another bonus is it can be fixed in the field ..ally is much harder to get sorted

for carrying big loads on hard ground you cant beat the poppy-frame
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:03 AM   #18247
DocAxeYarYar
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 755
XR650R sub frame

Ive been running the Globetrottin subframe and its worked out well.

http://www.globetrottin.com/Steel-su...650R_p_16.html

I got the one without a built in rack because I already have a small Manracks to use, and with a bigger rack I would be tempted to load up too much gear.

I am quite sure because it does not flex around as much, I could carry my gear with more security. I never lost a single item off the back of my bike on my 2,000 mile New Mexico trip. Riding through miles and miles of whoops, dips, and ruts the subframe held up where the stock one would be flexing all around, and could eventually crack.

It think it also helps when you dump the bike, its more sturdy for picking up and lifting the bike around when needed.

Yes, its a bit pricey but I figure on keeping my XRR for a long time, so was OK with spending the extra coin for peace of mind.


The subframe held up well, happy with it!





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Old 09-29-2013, 07:12 AM   #18248
slogger
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I've got a subframe insert just spinning in the subframe. It's the lower right one that holds the side panel on.
Any solutions for this?
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:57 AM   #18249
Bench Racer
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Location: BEND Oregon
Oddometer: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Nope, you leave the idle system well alone, in fact I'd revert to the 68S again.
You need to change the main, obviously, as anything above ~1/8 throttle is fed by this jet. Run rich? Smaller main, and vice versa. And, only when you've got the main ballpark you start fiddling with the needleclip, as this thing only finetunes.
Before all though, clean airfilter, clean tank, fuel filter, clean carb with correct float level set is what you make sure of.
Thanks for the help. I changed the main from a 168 to a 162. What a difference. It runs great. I changed the pilot back to the 65s too. It did help with the idle. The bike sounds good and runs strong.
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:50 PM   #18250
1bigrn
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Carb running out of fuel. After 600-700 meters.

I put the stock carb back in today after pulling out the Mikuni. The stock carb fired straight up and idle quite well once the air/fuel and the idle adjustment was massaged.
Once I took it for a short ride it powered up well and pulled like it should. However within 600-700 meters (straight line, paved asphalt) it began to bog and eventually stall like it was running out of fuel.

I was thinking that perhaps the float valve was sticking and not allowing in fuel or the petcock/fuel line has some sort of obstruction.
What does the group think?
Anyone had a similar issue?
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:35 PM   #18251
KustomizingKid
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Does anyone else have gearing recomendations for dual sport usage?
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:41 PM   #18252
jm-2008
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Location: South Eastern Australia
Oddometer: 478
[QUOTE=1bigrn;22440960]I put the stock carb back in today after pulling out the Mikuni. The stock carb fired straight up and idle quite well once the air/fuel and the idle adjustment was massaged.
Once I took it for a short ride it powered up well and pulled like it should. However within 600-700 meters (straight line, paved asphalt) it began to bog and eventually stall like it was running out of fuel.

I was thinking that perhaps the float valve was sticking and not allowing in fuel or the petcock/fuel line has some sort of obstruction.
What does the group think?
Anyone had a similar issue?


Basics,
  1. Check fuel flow out the carby supply hose
  2. Check fuel tank breather hose
  3. Remove rubber seal under the fuel tank cap and check breather passages are clear
  4. Check carby float bowl breather hoses are not blocked or kinked (cut an inch or so off their length to ensure no blockages)
  5. Check fuel filter (if you have one)
Regards,

JM-2008
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:52 PM   #18253
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
Oddometer: 1,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
Does anyone else have gearing recomendations for dual sport usage?
I like 15/48 or 45. The 48 is for more dirt, 45 for less dirt.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:30 PM   #18254
mitchn06
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Joined: May 2012
Location: SoDak
Oddometer: 518
Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
I like 15/48 or 45. The 48 is for more dirt, 45 for less dirt.
That's about what I use most frequently. Or 14/45 for quicker changes I only have the 14/15 front and 45/48 rear. So I just use those combos


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Old 09-30-2013, 07:29 AM   #18255
bigtrailie
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Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Jackson, MI
Oddometer: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocAxeYarYar View Post
Ive been running the Globetrottin subframe and its worked out well.

http://www.globetrottin.com/Steel-su...650R_p_16.html


The subframe held up well, happy with it!




I could be wrong on this one, but I recall a few years back someone posted a problem with using the steel subframe. The extra rigidity of the subframe caused the mounting points in the Aluminum main frame to crack. Am I all wet here? I've been resisting the move to a steel sub-frame for this reason.
I hope I'm wrong.
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