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Old 11-19-2013, 07:51 PM   #18586
brayjay
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Same here. Got two 650r's and both clutches look like that, maybe not quite as grooved though.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:29 PM   #18587
Capt. Egregious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
Yep, my spacers from W9 weren't marked, but the PDF file had them mislabeled. But, I woke up last nite thinking that the length of the spacer changes the relationship between the sprocket and the swinger, as well as the alignment with the counter sprocket. It doesn't affect the relationship of the sprocket to the rim.

You guys that are running Warps, did you have to change the offset of your wheels to fit them? The inmate that sold me these said he had them on an XR-R and that they were built by the factory for that bike. But he could have been blowing smoke... If you get a chance get me the distance (clearance) from the sprocket to the swinger when the wheel is installed, por favor! I bet I just need to move the rim over on the hub, just wanna see what others have before I start fooking with it.
Swing arm to sprocket clearance is roughly 7mm. I did measure swing arm to rim also, this # will change with axle position but gives ya the idea. 37mm on chain side and 30mm on rotor side. Mine is roughly 7mm offset. The wheels have not been messed with since purchased new(checked tension that's it).
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:53 AM   #18588
babuja
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Hey guys, just dismount water pump for full flush...



Do you recommend further maintenance? Cheers

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Old 11-20-2013, 04:45 AM   #18589
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBD View Post
Nooooo he means turn each nipple on one side an equal 180 (half turn)
Do this for the entire circumference
Then take up the 1/2 turn 'slack' you've created on the opposite side.
Thank you OBD, you clearly do have a healty brain LOL
Piney, 180 deg's gave you 0.5mm? Then you'll have to turn them a lot more next time, but to get to 7mm offset I'd do it in phases in any case.


Babuja mate,
did you take the thermostat out before flushing?
Looks to me it flows a bit freely, but then again this might just be the pic.
And yes, you do need a thermostat
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:39 AM   #18590
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
The W9 PDF file says to offset the rim 1mm off the rotor, but without a diagram I don't understand what that means (which side of the rotor are they measuring from?).


I would bet they mean off the inside of the rotor (spoke side), this would be the same point of measurement shown in the Honda manual.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:13 AM   #18591
FlyGuy
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Originally Posted by ride4fun562 View Post
Is this wearing on the Clutch center and clutch press normal? For some reason im gonna guess no.

That wear is from centrifugal force. Clutch basket spinning, forces the spring outward.
Its normal to have that wear
If you clutch is working good ignore it
Stiffer springs will somewhat reduce the amount of wear you are indicating.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:29 AM   #18592
babuja
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Babuja mate,
did you take the thermostat out before flushing?
Looks to me it flows a bit freely, but then again this might just be the pic.
Nope, didn't take thermostat out...just removed anti freezing liquid from all system, washed radiator with water to remove some "sand"...and flushed system from water pump (as pic shows).

How do you do a full cooling system flush mate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
And yes, you do need a thermostat
Hmm..why is that?
Your sure i need one in Angola? :)


Hey man,

Looking to hear some news from you and how your going around your BRP ��
Cheers



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babuja screwed with this post 11-21-2013 at 12:54 AM
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:12 AM   #18593
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
How do you do a full cooling system flush mate?
You did, just empty the coolant tank also - and refill too (ahem )


Hmm..why is that?
Warming-up (this is when an engine wears most!) goes a LOT quicker, and it ensures the temp will never drop below the set value.
Your sure i need one in Angola? :)
Same as here, definitely.


Looking to hear some news from you and how your going around your BRP
December should bring me time, hence some work done. Hopefully a machinist-friend of mine can do some turning work then too.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:56 AM   #18594
babuja
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
👍

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Old 11-21-2013, 03:13 PM   #18595
PineyMountainRacing
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Respect ...

For you guys that have mastered wheel building. I'm not worthy !



Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I would bet they mean off the inside of the rotor (spoke side), this would be the same point of measurement shown in the Honda manual.

What does it say the normal offset should be? I still have my original wheel and rotor, so I can measure that and see what I started from.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Thank you OBD, you clearly do have a healty brain LOL
Piney, 180 deg's gave you 0.5mm? Then you'll have to turn them a lot more next time, but to get to 7mm offset I'd do it in phases in any case.


Babuja mate,
did you take the thermostat out before flushing?
Looks to me it flows a bit freely, but then again this might just be the pic.
And yes, you do need a thermostat
I "eye-balled it" and it looked like I needed to shift the rim towards the rotor at least 5 mm so I figured I'd go 7 mm to be safe. I've got it almost 7 now, but I've run out of threads on the rotor side, like the spokes are too long for that amount of adjustment. And I can't finish truing it towards the 7, so I guess I'll need to move it back and look for a total offset of 6mm, that will take some pressure off the rotor side spokes. The rim having a bent spot didn't help any, so much for "no damage, like new" but I've about got it worked out.

If the 6mm isn't enough, then I'll need different spokes, at least on the rotor side. On the sprocket side I'm seeing 2-3 threads now, they may need to be a little longer.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:46 PM   #18596
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
For you guys that have mastered wheel building. I'm not worthy !






What does it say the normal offset should be? I still have my original wheel and rotor, so I can measure that and see what I started from.



I "eye-balled it" and it looked like I needed to shift the rim towards the rotor at least 5 mm so I figured I'd go 7 mm to be safe. I've got it almost 7 now, but I've run out of threads on the rotor side, like the spokes are too long for that amount of adjustment. And I can't finish truing it towards the 7, so I guess I'll need to move it back and look for a total offset of 6mm, that will take some pressure off the rotor side spokes. The rim having a bent spot didn't help any, so much for "no damage, like new" but I've about got it worked out.

If the 6mm isn't enough, then I'll need different spokes, at least on the rotor side. On the sprocket side I'm seeing 2-3 threads now, they may need to be a little longer.


19mm according to the manual using oem rim from the INSIDE of the rotor to the outside of the rim. You are going to need to use a bit of math to convert it for your wider rim.
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:06 AM   #18597
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What do you guys think of the guy on eBay selling the Service Manual in CD form? I mean I doubt he is selling any, but come on, really?


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Old 11-22-2013, 06:13 AM   #18598
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
I "eye-balled it" and it looked like I needed to shift the rim towards the rotor at least 5 mm so I figured I'd go 7 mm to be safe. I've got it almost 7 now, but I've run out of threads on the rotor side, like the spokes are too long for that amount of adjustment. And I can't finish truing it towards the 7, so I guess I'll need to move it back and look for a total offset of 6mm, that will take some pressure off the rotor side spokes. The rim having a bent spot didn't help any, so much for "no damage, like new" but I've about got it worked out.

If the 6mm isn't enough, then I'll need different spokes, at least on the rotor side. On the sprocket side I'm seeing 2-3 threads now, they may need to be a little longer.

Yip, by the sounds of it you'll need different spokes, I actually thought you might. You're offsetting (off-middle) quite a bit, and it may be that your wider rim also has the spoke-holes offset more ('wider', further apart axially) than the std rim has.
Ask a wheelbuilder/company what you will need, but measure (accurately, use a vernier) the lengths you currently have/need first. Know that the hub needs certain angles of the spoke heads, but these they probably know - that is if it's the std hub?
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:23 AM   #18599
crypto666
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Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
What do you guys think of the guy on eBay selling the Service Manual in CD form? I mean I doubt he is selling any, but come on, really?


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There is a sucker born every minute.
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:14 AM   #18600
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This sucker is heading for a Barstow to ride to las Vegas. Go ride boys !
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