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Old 11-19-2013, 07:53 AM   #18586
Capt. Egregious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
Yep, my spacers from W9 weren't marked, but the PDF file had them mislabeled. But, I woke up last nite thinking that the length of the spacer changes the relationship between the sprocket and the swinger, as well as the alignment with the counter sprocket. It doesn't affect the relationship of the sprocket to the rim.

You guys that are running Warps, did you have to change the offset of your wheels to fit them? The inmate that sold me these said he had them on an XR-R and that they were built by the factory for that bike. But he could have been blowing smoke... If you get a chance get me the distance (clearance) from the sprocket to the swinger when the wheel is installed, por favor! I bet I just need to move the rim over on the hub, just wanna see what others have before I start fooking with it.
I will measure tonight when I get home from work. What brand of tire are you using? Tire to chain interference is unavoidable with some brands. I have a Avon rain 160/?? that will never fit but I also have 170/?? Tire that will.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #18587
PineyMountainRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
No spacers.
No tyres on either, all off - and lube the nipple heads from the rim-side so they will turn nicely.
Mount in truing stand and find a way how you're going to measure the offset youre going to get/want/need - and of course this value comes from your bike where you did measure (? you did ?).
Oh, use only real decent spoke/nipple spanners, a shifting spanner or why will screw things up.
Then loose all nipples on the 1 side (same side from which the rim has to move to the other), say all 180 degrees, then tighten the other side by same. A marker-pen will come in handy for this.
Once this is done measure what difference this made offset-wise, and continue according to your findings.
Once you have obtained your offset then tighten all spokes so that, ideally, all have the same tension whilst the rim runs perfectly true.
This last bit is of course the tricky bit but with a healthy brain and some fiddling one gets some experience under his belt, but it's no rocket science.
Degrease & clean rim afterwards, you don't want oil on the tube/tyre.
seriously, I'll try it this way. do you just do "half" of the wheel at a time (180 degrees)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Egregious View Post
I will measure tonight when I get home from work. What brand of tire are you using? Tire to chain interference is unavoidable with some brands. I have a Avon rain 160/?? that will never fit but I also have 170/?? Tire that will.
it's an old 150/60 Conti SM, I just stuck it on for testing. I have some 160 takeoffs from my SV, IDK if they'll work on a 4.125 rim, but I'm shopping for a tire I can run at the track and use for commuting, maybe a Road2. It's hard to not square a tire off down here in Florida.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:07 PM   #18588
winch
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Originally Posted by galland1 View Post
Can you thread it in from the inside and let the "bolt" straighten out the threads as you screw it in from the inside?

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I tried this. For some reason I couldn't get it to thread that way either. It was a pretty frustrating hour in the garage.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:11 PM   #18589
ride4fun562
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Is this wearing on the Clutch center and clutch press normal? For some reason im gonna guess no.

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Old 11-19-2013, 04:00 PM   #18590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
seriously, I'll try it this way. do you just do "half" of the wheel at a time (180 degrees)?
Nooooo he means turn each nipple on one side an equal 180 (half turn)
Do this for the entire circumference
Then take up the 1/2 turn 'slack' you've created on the opposite side.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:24 PM   #18591
FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBD View Post
Nooooo he means turn each nipple on one side an equal 180 (half turn)
Do this for the entire circumference
Then take up the 1/2 turn 'slack' you've created on the opposite side.
I like the the above method
I would make clock marks on the spokes and rim (sharpie) to help keep track
Also you may need to re- set torque on final adjustment
And for gods sake use the swing arm as your truing jig its the most perfect way to do it.
Its the only way i will do rims I lace.
with the tire removed, squared with swing arm bolt, tighten axle, then I use a paint stick taped on the swing arm, right at the edge of the rim with markers for the rim edge.
Now square rim up where you need it to be
spin and true from there.
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:20 PM   #18592
PineyMountainRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBD View Post
Nooooo he means turn each nipple on one side an equal 180 (half turn)
Do this for the entire circumference
Then take up the 1/2 turn 'slack' you've created on the opposite side.
Got it, after I went back and read BuRPa's reply. I went around the wheel twice doing 90 deg at a time. Loosen sprocket side, then tighten rotor side, repeat. I oiled all the threads, some seem tighter than others. The W9 PDF file says to offset the rim 1mm off the rotor, but without a diagram I don't understand what that means (which side of the rotor are they measuring from?). So I'm planning to move the rim 7 mm towards the rotor side, that should give me the clearance I need, and a CH to spare. It looks like my efforts tonite moved it 0.5 mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyGuy View Post
I like the the above method
I would make clock marks on the spokes and rim (sharpie) to help keep track
Also you may need to re- set torque on final adjustment
And for gods sake use the swing arm as your truing jig its the most perfect way to do it.
Its the only way i will do rims I lace.
with the tire removed, squared with swing arm bolt, tighten axle, then I use a paint stick taped on the swing arm, right at the edge of the rim with markers for the rim edge.
Now square rim up where you need it to be
spin and true from there.
I've already got it in the truing stand, and its at a more comfortable height to work at. But I thought about just sticking it back between the swinger. The paint stick is a good idea, and I already figured out tonite I need tape and marks to keep track. The rims are black so a Sharpie by itself isn't much help.

And now that its in the stand, I see it's got a little dent in the rotor side, so something else to work out. IDK if I have the patience to do this but I'll give it my best shot
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:23 PM   #18593
mitchn06
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@ride4fun562

I also have these marks on mine from the springs, i don't believe its a big deal, but i'm not for certain.
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:51 PM   #18594
brayjay
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Same here. Got two 650r's and both clutches look like that, maybe not quite as grooved though.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:29 PM   #18595
Capt. Egregious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
Yep, my spacers from W9 weren't marked, but the PDF file had them mislabeled. But, I woke up last nite thinking that the length of the spacer changes the relationship between the sprocket and the swinger, as well as the alignment with the counter sprocket. It doesn't affect the relationship of the sprocket to the rim.

You guys that are running Warps, did you have to change the offset of your wheels to fit them? The inmate that sold me these said he had them on an XR-R and that they were built by the factory for that bike. But he could have been blowing smoke... If you get a chance get me the distance (clearance) from the sprocket to the swinger when the wheel is installed, por favor! I bet I just need to move the rim over on the hub, just wanna see what others have before I start fooking with it.
Swing arm to sprocket clearance is roughly 7mm. I did measure swing arm to rim also, this # will change with axle position but gives ya the idea. 37mm on chain side and 30mm on rotor side. Mine is roughly 7mm offset. The wheels have not been messed with since purchased new(checked tension that's it).
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:53 AM   #18596
babuja
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Hey guys, just dismount water pump for full flush...



Do you recommend further maintenance? Cheers

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Old 11-20-2013, 04:45 AM   #18597
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBD View Post
Nooooo he means turn each nipple on one side an equal 180 (half turn)
Do this for the entire circumference
Then take up the 1/2 turn 'slack' you've created on the opposite side.
Thank you OBD, you clearly do have a healty brain LOL
Piney, 180 deg's gave you 0.5mm? Then you'll have to turn them a lot more next time, but to get to 7mm offset I'd do it in phases in any case.


Babuja mate,
did you take the thermostat out before flushing?
Looks to me it flows a bit freely, but then again this might just be the pic.
And yes, you do need a thermostat
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:39 AM   #18598
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
The W9 PDF file says to offset the rim 1mm off the rotor, but without a diagram I don't understand what that means (which side of the rotor are they measuring from?).


I would bet they mean off the inside of the rotor (spoke side), this would be the same point of measurement shown in the Honda manual.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:13 AM   #18599
FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4fun562 View Post
Is this wearing on the Clutch center and clutch press normal? For some reason im gonna guess no.

That wear is from centrifugal force. Clutch basket spinning, forces the spring outward.
Its normal to have that wear
If you clutch is working good ignore it
Stiffer springs will somewhat reduce the amount of wear you are indicating.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:29 AM   #18600
babuja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Babuja mate,
did you take the thermostat out before flushing?
Looks to me it flows a bit freely, but then again this might just be the pic.
Nope, didn't take thermostat out...just removed anti freezing liquid from all system, washed radiator with water to remove some "sand"...and flushed system from water pump (as pic shows).

How do you do a full cooling system flush mate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
And yes, you do need a thermostat
Hmm..why is that?
Your sure i need one in Angola? :)


Hey man,

Looking to hear some news from you and how your going around your BRP ��
Cheers



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babuja screwed with this post 11-21-2013 at 12:54 AM
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