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Old 04-12-2014, 09:31 AM   #20536
DocAxeYarYar
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 780
Oil in frame

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
I'm not trying to drain it. I just thought some oil draind back into the crank after the bike quits pumping it. No oil had drained back after 5 hours. I thought maybe my down tube filter was maybe plugged, but it's clean.
Yes, the oil level should drop down a bit from when its hot. The main thing is not to have the motor overfilled with oil. You may still have oil showing on the dipstick when cold, but when hot it should rise up higher on the dipstick. If the oil level is correct when hot, your good to go.

Watch your oil consumption, mine burns about 1/4 quart every 700 or so miles, so dont run it low. Depends on how fast you run the bike, gearing, and load.
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:57 AM   #20537
El Caballo Loco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigkuri View Post
Why on earth resleeve? As in, it is a plated bore, so you'd need to drill it out and press in a iron sleeve. Just get it bored and re-plated... :)
I'm not to familiar with the Nikasil coatings. I thought they had a short window before they were considered scrap.
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Old 04-12-2014, 01:32 PM   #20538
stevh0
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Location: Cape Town, ZA
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99 out side and I decided to go to the dunes.



In its element.
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Old 04-12-2014, 08:07 PM   #20539
npcaldwell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigjockey View Post
ok i'm gunna have to throw the red bs flag here. How in the world could they be more sensitive? perhaps the old ones had a air bubble in it. I'm pretty sure by the size of them they are all pretty much the same exact things. Something is wrong here how the hell can a bike brake apply more pressure than a truck with power assisted brakes. lets try and keep it believable.rotf
Wow, what a nice slam bud! My experience with my K S switches is that I'd have to apply enough force to do a stoppie to get them to work, so I don't use them I think they're junk. I installed the baja switches and the problem went away.

By the way I turned wrenches for the local Honda shop for years and never had anyone come back with problems after I worked on their brakes. There was no air in my brakes either. Maybe i just got some bad switches, thats why I cited my experience with them.
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:53 PM   #20540
pwrtrippin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Caballo Loco View Post
I'm not to familiar with the Nikasil coatings. I thought they had a short window before they were considered scrap.
Nikasil lasts a very long time. Generally the only reason it fails is a catastrophic failure of something else.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:00 PM   #20541
pwrtrippin
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Location: Woodland Park,CO
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Acerbis 6.3g and boiling fuel.

So basically I use my Piggy for all types of riding from fast 2tracks to slow single track and everything in between. Last weekend was the second time I experienced my gas boiling and flooding me out with to much pressure to the carb. Anyone else experience this and what did you do to fix it? I'm thinking about ceramic coating and maybe heat wrapping the exhaust, then maybe heat shielding on the bottom of the tank since it seems to be the exhaust side that boils.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:26 PM   #20542
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrtrippin View Post
So basically I use my Piggy for all types of riding from fast 2tracks to slow single track and everything in between. Last weekend was the second time I experienced my gas boiling and flooding me out with to much pressure to the carb. Anyone else experience this and what did you do to fix it? I'm thinking about ceramic coating and maybe heat wrapping the exhaust, then maybe heat shielding on the bottom of the tank since it seems to be the exhaust side that boils.
I've had the fuel boil and it's a little unnerving, you're thinkin, if this thing blows there goes my sex life

Shielding is good, fan is better if you can work it out with the electrics, it'll run all the time in those conditions though. I've never been a fan of wrap on a dirtbike for rust reasons but I hear it helps. Are you running a check valve or straight hose. Many of the caps have a check valve installed inside of the cap, toss it and the stubby little check valves. Run the plain old hose into your steering stem and the pressure issues will go away.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:26 PM   #20543
pwrtrippin
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I do like the idea Freak. I have had one day where it was boiling hard enough to pressurize even without the check valve. I thought of rust too but that was why I was thinking of ceramic coating first. Gas burns like hell when applied in liberal doses to your crotch. Had lots of slow going Friday on Golden Spike trail in Moab.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:58 PM   #20544
Keyz
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Blue hills west maryland

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Old 04-14-2014, 04:15 PM   #20545
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Caballo Loco View Post
Thanks, I really appreciate your info. Is there a preferred XR650R head guru/machinist that can do a resleeve as well?

Don't resleeve, there is no sleeve oem. You want it replated. It is the better option.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:18 PM   #20546
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocAxeYarYar View Post
I know this sounds silly, but did you remove the small drain bolt that is just under the front down tube? There are two drain bolts, the larger one on the engine and the small one on the frame down tube.

The oil should drain instantly....otherwise you may have a gopher or tribble living in there....

A long time depending on temperature and pump wear.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:24 PM   #20547
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrtrippin View Post
I do like the idea Freak. I have had one day where it was boiling hard enough to pressurize even without the check valve. I thought of rust too but that was why I was thinking of ceramic coating first. Gas burns like hell when applied in liberal doses to your crotch. Had lots of slow going Friday on Golden Spike trail in Moab.
That's one for your KTM
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:17 PM   #20548
brayjay
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Joined: Oct 2013
Location: British Columbia
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Advice

So I installed my head and instead of applying oil to the inside of the nuts as stated in the manual I used my finger and just smeared small amounts on the threads of the studs. Torqued down the head bolts to proper torque and all was fine. Then I noticed a little bit of oil squished out of the base gasket and head gasket after it was torqued. No doubt the oil ran down the studs and made its way there. Will this destroy the base and head gasket? Should I tear it down and use new gaskets?
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:27 PM   #20549
zoro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brayjay View Post
So I installed my head and instead of applying oil to the inside of the nuts as stated in the manual I used my finger and just smeared small amounts on the threads of the studs. Torqued down the head bolts to proper torque and all was fine. Then I noticed a little bit of oil squished out of the base gasket and head gasket after it was torqued. No doubt the oil ran down the studs and made its way there. Will this destroy the base and head gasket? Should I tear it down and use new gaskets?
Don't worry bout that, all good
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:39 PM   #20550
brayjay
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I hope your right, The one side of the base gasket is wet. What a dumb thing to do!!
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