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Old 09-05-2010, 04:30 PM   #5311
KASUYAHO
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Ridefreak,
did you find that when you lowered the float it became lean in the mixture screw? and you had to richen it up a little there.

I found that if i adjust the mixture screw so it was nice at idle, then it became a tad hard to start when the motor was warm.
Then i over came that by a few kicks to prime the carby.
Did you find the same?
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Old 09-05-2010, 04:37 PM   #5312
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by header
Don't care if its fuel vaporization or flooding, the outcome is the same. Also, when mine is dropped 6 kicks won't get me very far. I need to do about ten before it will try and start, many before it actually starts.
There is a difference between flooding and fuel vaporization.

Vaporization fills the air box with vapors, we have to get rid of that vapor
out of the air box, otherwise it will never start.

Try leaning out your mixture screw.
I adjust mine by, the bike at idle, turn the screw in and when the mmotor starts to dies slightly, turn it out a touch.
Then try that, if it becomes hard to start when warm, either do, a few kicks with decomp in with no throttle and ignition on, this seems to prime the carby.
If it is still hard to start turn out the mixture screw a touch,
this is what i did and seems to work well.

Float height will change the mixture screw setting, so set the float height first.
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:13 PM   #5313
header
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Ill chech the float and see what its at, then get back to you guys.
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:24 PM   #5314
badcooky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by header
I want an edelbrock carb. But I don't have the money for a new one. Yes the performance upgrade that would come from putting a pumper on would be awesome but I really just need to get the bike to start easier after a fall. I know the drill and it does work but clearing it out (on mine) takes 20-25 kicks before its completely cleared out. Even if I do the race start it still takes a good ten kicks to clear it out enough to start, unless its just barely flooded.

Is there anything I can do to get rid of that horid flooding or do I need to find the cash for an edelbrock? If so how cheap can I get one?
Just get a pumper carb any pumper carb the stock carb is a POS.
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Old 09-06-2010, 04:10 AM   #5315
TurboZX-14dragracer
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Whatever happened to the XR 650 R? Why did Honda do away with it in favor of the old school XL 600/650?
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Old 09-06-2010, 04:20 AM   #5316
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboZX-14dragracer
Whatever happened to the XR 650 R? Why did Honda do away with it in favor of the old school XL 600/650?
Honda dropped the XR650R to make room for the CRF450 to run at
Baja 1000.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:14 AM   #5317
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO
Ridefreak,
did you find that when you lowered the float it became lean in the mixture screw? and you had to richen it up a little there.

I found that if i adjust the mixture screw so it was nice at idle, then it became a tad hard to start when the motor was warm.
Then i over came that by a few kicks to prime the carby.
Did you find the same?
Not really, it's a bit lean though but I purposely left it that way as I ran the stock carb on a recent ride up in the rockies, we hit upwards of 13,500 feet and it was starting perfectly the whole week. It was 2 kicks cold and one hot. I'm running a TM40 most of the time, it was untested at that alt so I swapped the stock carb back in for the ride. I always do a priming kick or 2 when cold, like a clearing kick, ign off and roll on the throttle as I kick it through, we got really low humidity here and the priming kick really helps.
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:15 AM   #5318
dirtyoffroad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by header
How much was the Edelbrock? New or used?
$300 very little use.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:09 AM   #5319
modette
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Or make sure everything is setup right, and one kick without priming or anything...so what is wrong with the stock carb. I will admit sometimes the bike will have a mind of its own though.

Method, sit on seat and push down, bike starts. Even if you have to do 10 kicks its not hard...now it is when you do 30 kicks, its 95 degrees outside and your tired and the bike is flooded...but once I got that down...clear it 1-2 kicks, and then start...or if I am on a hill go down and bump start.
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:30 PM   #5320
lstzephyr
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Just a little update on my clutch squealing. I ran it a little low on oil the other day and I bought some pennzoil 10w40 from a gas station(all they had). I haven't been able to get the clutch to squeal since. So maybe the oil I was running is the problem(rotella 10w40, and castrol gtx 10w40 for the last 10 oil changes, I bought them in gallon jugs). I had switched to rotella right before heading to mexico and getting the bike hot, so that could be the issue. I'm still not sure.

I'll find out one way or the other. But for now, I'm switching back to honda oil and running it.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:29 PM   #5321
badcooky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboZX-14dragracer
Whatever happened to the XR 650 R? Why did Honda do away with it in favor of the old school XL 600/650?
They weren't selling dude.
Ya buy one every 10 years or so,so they were dropped.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:37 PM   #5322
brucifer
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Hey all, I have an Edelbrock I'd sell to one of youse guys if your interested. It comes with the cables and throttle assembly, AND as an added bonus, grip heaters. I was too lazy to remove the one from the throttle tube. lol. I'm not actively trying to sell this thing, just thought I'd throw it out there to the XR650R thread community.
I will only ship to the lower 48 states. PM me for details.
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:28 PM   #5323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucifer
Hey all, I have an Edelbrock I'd sell to one of youse guys if your interested. It comes with the cables and throttle assembly, AND as an added bonus, grip heaters. I was too lazy to remove the one from the throttle tube. lol. I'm not actively trying to sell this thing, just thought I'd throw it out there to the XR650R thread community.
I will only ship to the lower 48 states. PM me for details.
Pm sent.
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:52 PM   #5324
cdogg44
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My Michelin AC10's are shot and I'm fixing to order some Pirelli MT21's. Good call? I want something that's not scary on the street, won't wash out on gravel roads, and then from their I'll deal with the rest if they suck in the gnarly stuff.

Anyway, I'm having trouble with sizing. I am looking at the 130/90 rear and 90/90 front. How do those sizes compare to the 110/100 and 80/100 I'm currently running in AC10's? I'd like a little bit more meat up front and something wider to hook up better in the rear.

Thanks
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:27 AM   #5325
Burkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44
My Michelin AC10's are shot and I'm fixing to order some Pirelli MT21's. Good call? I want something that's not scary on the street, won't wash out on gravel roads, and then from their I'll deal with the rest if they suck in the gnarly stuff.

Anyway, I'm having trouble with sizing. I am looking at the 130/90 rear and 90/90 front. How do those sizes compare to the 110/100 and 80/100 I'm currently running in AC10's? I'd like a little bit more meat up front and something wider to hook up better in the rear.

Thanks
Im running MT21's 90/90 front and a 120 rear. The 130 will easily fit, I'll be trying this one next time

Sean
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