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Old 09-07-2010, 07:51 AM   #5326
tarzan30
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Question Front and Rear stock Rotors are then interchangeable?

Looking for a guru to help with some part issues. Is the front an rear rotors interchangeable? If not can someone help with a rear rotor part source?

Looking to replace my rear rotor it has a wave . The specs say they are both 240mm so i just want to make sure i can use the stock front on the rear if possible.

Thanks in advance!

If you have one lying around let me know too!
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:31 AM   #5327
fiep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarzan30
...front an rear rotors interchangeable ...
different OEM part numbers
different MSRP

cheapest I found was 100 for an EBC rear rotor
had a search ad up for a while now, need both rear and oversized EBC-front, no offers so far,
XR250 definitely does not fit
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:53 AM   #5328
tarzan30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiep
different OEM part numbers
different MSRP

cheapest I found was 100 for an EBC rear rotor
had a search ad up for a while now, need both rear and oversized EBC-front, no offers so far,
XR250 definitely does not fit
talked to a honda shop and the mech said it may just be a little thicker in the rear?
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Old 09-07-2010, 11:11 AM   #5329
mung
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Mt 21 140

I am using the mt 21 140 with no problems. Decent all around tire. Good on the street and good in hard dirt terrain-fair in sand or deep mud. I got 2400 miles on last one. The one I am using now will not go quite as far.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:30 PM   #5330
Purcell69
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Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarzan30
Looking for a guru to help with some part issues. Is the front an rear rotors interchangeable? If not can someone help with a rear rotor part source?

Looking to replace my rear rotor it has a wave . The specs say they are both 240mm so i just want to make sure i can use the stock front on the rear if possible.

Thanks in advance!

If you have one lying around let me know too!
I had to replace my rear rotor last year due to wave. The stock replacement was around $100. I found the rear disc for the Transalp would bolt up and was a little heavier than the stock rear rotor. I found one on feebay for $45 shipped. It's been working well for me on the street, 5,000+ miles so far.

-Joe
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:15 PM   #5331
Akunin
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Anyone selling their XR650R?

PM if you are considering it! Looking to buy come February! Looking for low hours and like new condition! Hoping to find one that someone just hasn't found the time for.
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:52 PM   #5332
cdogg44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkey
Im running MT21's 90/90 front and a 120 rear. The 130 will easily fit, I'll be trying this one next time

Sean
130/90 and a 90/90 MT21 are on the way. Also some tire irons.

This will be my first tire change EVER. My buddies are begging me to take it to a shop. I've done everything else to the bike so far so how hard could it be, right?
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:05 AM   #5333
lstzephyr
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Its not hard, just take your time and understand you will probably go through a couple tubes before you figure it out. I've done a bunch now, and its easy enough I find it relaxing actually. I have a beer, and toss a tire on nice and quick.
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Old 09-08-2010, 01:47 AM   #5334
Purcell69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44
130/90 and a 90/90 MT21 are on the way. Also some tire irons.

This will be my first tire change EVER. My buddies are begging me to take it to a shop. I've done everything else to the bike so far so how hard could it be, right?
I usually install new tubes when I do my tires. To make it easier, I inflate the new tube just enough to give the tube its shape. With one bead on the rim, I slip the new tube in the tire and then remove the valve core to let the tube deflate. I insert my stem fishing tool through the hole in the rim and thread it into the valve stem, pull the stem into place on the rim and get the rest of the tube onto the rim before installing the second bead. Just take small bites with the tire irons, maybe an inch or so at a time, and use lots of Windex to lube up the process. Once both beads are on and the valve stem is secured in place, air up the tire to set the bead. Once the beads have set, install the valve core and inflate/deflate as necessary.

Have another beer.

-Joe
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:21 AM   #5335
modette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr
Its not hard, just take your time and understand you will probably go through a couple tubes before you figure it out. I've done a bunch now, and its easy enough I find it relaxing actually. I have a beer, and toss a tire on nice and quick.
And to think back in the day a large flathead screw driver is what I used as a kid...just got to be careful not hard to change a tire/tube at all.
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:29 AM   #5336
cdogg44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69
I usually install new tubes when I do my tires. To make it easier, I inflate the new tube just enough to give the tube its shape. With one bead on the rim, I slip the new tube in the tire and then remove the valve core to let the tube deflate. I insert my stem fishing tool through the hole in the rim and thread it into the valve stem, pull the stem into place on the rim and get the rest of the tube onto the rim before installing the second bead. Just take small bites with the tire irons, maybe an inch or so at a time, and use lots of Windex to lube up the process. Once both beads are on and the valve stem is secured in place, air up the tire to set the bead. Once the beads have set, install the valve core and inflate/deflate as necessary.

Have another beer.

-Joe
I ordered new tubes as well for my tires. However, is it standard practice to change them if they are working out ok? Also, are the $30 tubes any better than the $12 tubes?
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:37 AM   #5337
modette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44
I ordered new tubes as well for my tires. However, is it standard practice to change them if they are working out ok? Also, are the $30 tubes any better than the $12 tubes?
They are much much heavier rubber...and thus will help you to not get pinch flats. Some people change tubes often, but it seems like a lot of people are CHEAP and wait till it leaks on a trail *shrug* I went with the Tubliss system, so I don't worry now at all. As you can see why a good tube is $30...and me being anal would want to change them every tire change or at least every other tire change so at $30 a piece that adds up quick...the Tubliss system is $85-$89 a wheel....now instead of a tube I just carry a plug kit and a hand pump.
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:39 AM   #5338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44
I ordered new tubes as well for my tires. However, is it standard practice to change them if they are working out ok? Also, are the $30 tubes any better than the $12 tubes?
The only difference in tubes is the thickness. You can get HD (heavy duty) tubes if you are worried about punctures or pinch flats but they are more expensive and heavier.

For whatever its worth, I only change the tubes when I get a hole in them. keeps the cost down.

EDIT: Ha, he beat me to it ^^^
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:37 AM   #5339
RideFreak
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I'd go with the HD tube. In 2 years, 5 rear tires (XR eats 'em up) with the same HD tube. They are heavy, but it works out cheaper (and easier) in the long run since they don't puncture as often. We ride some pretty rocky stuff that can be hard on a tube.



Of course I'll probably rip the valve stem out next ride since I wrote this

I've heard allot of good things about the tubliss setup.

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Old 09-08-2010, 07:48 AM   #5340
dirtyoffroad
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I use the tubliss on my Berg,setting the pig up for DP and not sure yet what I'm doing for tires/tubes.I do have spare tubliss setup if I go that route.
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