XR650R Thread!

[Coastie3202]

Pulled the spark plug on my 05 650R this morning just to see how it was running.

I am running a stock carb with 165 main, 65 pilot, needle clip in center position, and have the air fuel mixture screw out 2.5 turns. Bike is fully uncorked. Riding at 5,000 to 8,000 foot elevations.

The plug is black and sooty. What's it telling me?

Thanks for your input.

[Ironwood]

Clean your air filter??

Start there if you haven't already.

Joe

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by Coastie3202

The plug is black and sooty. What's it telling me?

Thanks for your input.

Thermostat broken and stuck open or you're not running one.

[opcocrg]

I might as well ask a question as well......

the stock carb on this thing has been a pain in the rear since I got and I'm doing all the work myself with nothing more than the internet as my teaching tool. I do have a new TM40 on the way but for my own knowledge I'd like some opinions on what could be wrong with my stocker.

it took a lot of fiddling to find what seems to work best for getting this thing started and once it's running I have no issues with it, BUT.......it seems the choke on mine doesn't work right. If I try and start it cold with just the choke on it takes forever (5 or 6 good kicks following the starting procedure) and once it starts it doesn't rev like the choke is even on, it just idles like normal. What I found works is to turn the idle adjuster up about 2 full turns with the choke on full and then it starts on the first or second kick and actually revs like the choke is on. then I flip the choke down to half or off because half doesn't rev any different than off and then I have to turn the idle adjuster back down till it idles at a normal rpm. after all that it runs and starts fine as long as it's relatively warm.

on another note, sometimes it seems as though it has a mind of it's own at stop lights. it doesn't happen all the time but occasionally it wants to idle really high and sometimes blipping the throttle brings it down and sometimes it doesn't. other times it feels like it's going to die and I need to keep the throttle on a little bit so it won't.

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by opcocrg

it took a lot of fiddling to find what seems to work best for getting this thing started and once it's running I have no issues with it, BUT.......it seems the choke on mine doesn't work right. If I try and start it cold with just the choke on it takes forever (5 or 6 good kicks following the starting procedure) and once it starts it doesn't rev like the choke is even on, it just idles like normal. What I found works is to turn the idle adjuster up about 2 full turns with the choke on full and then it starts on the first or second kick and actually revs like the choke is on. then I flip the choke down to half or off because half doesn't rev any different than off and then I have to turn the idle adjuster back down till it idles at a normal rpm. after all that it runs and starts fine as long as it's relatively warm.

on another note, sometimes it seems as though it has a mind of it's own at stop lights. it doesn't happen all the time but occasionally it wants to idle really high and sometimes blipping the throttle brings it down and sometimes it doesn't. other times it feels like it's going to die and I need to keep the throttle on a little bit so it won't.

Are you sure it has a choke flap? Most of them get taken out because they fall apart and get sucked into the engine.

Take the bowl off the carb and make sure the jam nut is tight on the emulsifier tube or whatever it's called. I had a bunch of the same symptoms and that jam nut wasn't tight which let that tube fall down to the bowl and it won't fall all of the way out until you take the entire bowl off.

[Coastie3202]

Originally Posted by larryboy

Thermostat broken and stuck open or you're not running one.

Interesting suggestion. I hadn't thought of that, if you're being serious. Can the thermostat be pulled without draining the coolant system? I have noticed that it seems to run a little on the cool side most of the time. Usually just below 200 degrees.

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by Coastie3202

Interesting suggestion. I hadn't thought of that, if you're being serious. Can the thermostat be pulled without draining the coolant system? I have noticed that it seems to run a little on the cool side most of the time. Usually just below 200 degrees.

If you have hose pinchers you can clamp the hoses on either side of the t-stat housing and take it out, it's no big deal to just dump the coolant.

Yes, I'm serious. If it doesn't run hot enough it'll run rich even when jetted right. My bike did the same thing and I'm jetted the same as you. I'm at sea level and pulled the plug to make sure I'm not too lean, black and sooty.

This is what I found:

[Beserker]

Originally Posted by RideFreak

You'll have plenty of opportunity to stretch the XR's legs.

Some awesome footage...Thanks for the post.

[ODSC1]

I just bought an Acerbis tank off another inmate. The tank is new but didn't come with petcocks or mounting hardware. So, my questions;

What type of petcock is used for the left side? Hose facing forward, rearward or to the inside? Just from a test fit it looks like a forward or inward facing hose would work best.

And, what sort of hardware is used or included for the lower mounts to the rads?

Thanks,
Brian

[seabee1]

if i'm not mistaken, the left petcock faces rearward.
the lower mounting points don't mount to the radiators, but to the brackets that are supplied with newly bought tanks. i went with the tanker brace sold by an inmate here in the vendor forum. hoodakaguy, or some such thing. very nice brace. well worth the $. there are some rubber grommets and metal sleeves you'll need as well. i was told to contact acerbis directly for the parts for the tank.

[ODSC1]

Originally Posted by seabee1

if i'm not mistaken, the left petcock faces rearward.
the lower mounting points don't mount to the radiators, but to the brackets that are supplied with newly bought tanks. i went with the tanker brace sold by an inmate here in the vendor forum. hoodakaguy, or some such thing. very nice brace. well worth the $. there are some rubber grommets and metal sleeves you'll need as well. i was told to contact acerbis directly for the parts for the tank.

I did get one of the Tanker braces with the tank which was a real plus. Looks like a nicely made part.

Where does the T fitting go that connects the petcocks? I was thinking on the right side behind the petcock

Brian

[seabee1]

that's where i did mine. on the right side.
i just developed a leak in the left lobe on todays ride. :(

[cdogg44]

Can the auto decompressor on the cam "wear out"?

I only ask because on my newest XR I have had a heck of a time setting the valves this time around. I kept getting them too loose, which I know is opposite of what usually happens when the auto decomp engages.

Through the several times I checked them I noticed the auto decomp would engage instantly and not always when I expected it too. Although after messing with it for so long I was kind of low on concentration and maybe it was like it always was.

I only ask because I nailed my first valve adjustment ever on my other XR, but this one took me several times to finally dial in.

Also, is there any valve overlap with the stock cam? A point where the exhaust and intake are both engaged? I swear I noticed some. Also (and I am NOT an engine guy) my intakes opened immediately after the T mark on the flywheel, and I always thought TDC was the top of the compression stroke which would put the exhausts first to open on the pistons way back up, not the intakes. It's been a looooooong day, so go easy on me if that's not right.

[KASUYAHO]

Originally Posted by cdogg44

Can the auto decompressor on the cam "wear out"?

I only ask because on my newest XR I have had a heck of a time setting the valves this time around. I kept getting them too loose, which I know is opposite of what usually happens when the auto decomp engages.

Through the several times I checked them I noticed the auto decomp would engage instantly and not always when I expected it too. Although after messing with it for so long I was kind of low on concentration and maybe it was like it always was.

I only ask because I nailed my first valve adjustment ever on my other XR, but this one took me several times to finally dial in.

Also, is there any valve overlap with the stock cam? A point where the exhaust and intake are both engaged? I swear I noticed some. Also (and I am NOT an engine guy) my intakes opened immediately after the T mark on the flywheel, and I always thought TDC was the top of the compression stroke which would put the exhausts first to open on the pistons way back up, not the intakes. It's been a looooooong day, so go easy on me if that's not right.

Yep it has camshaft overlap. every camshaft has it.

The only time the intake will open just after the T mark is at camshaft overlap, at the same time the exhaust will be closing too.
If you see that your out by 360 degree's.

What i do Dogg is go look for camshaft overlap, i look for when the exhaust is closing and the intake opening (camshaft overlap) then look to where the T mark is at a glance and then turn the crank 360 degree's and stop on the T and set the valve clearance.

Another thing i do as old habit, when on T use my hands and rock the rockers, both intake and exhaust should move, free play due to valve clearance.

[Beserker]

Originally Posted by KASUYAHO

What i do Dogg is go look for camshaft overlap, i look for when the exhaust is closing and the intake opening (camshaft overlap) then look to where the T mark is at a glance and then turn the crank 360 degree's and stop on the T and set the valve clearance.

Another thing i do as old habit, when on T use my hands and rock the rockers, both intake and exhaust should move, free play due to valve clearance.

Not an engine guy myself, the first time took me for ever, till I realised the above...now it takes me minutes.

Good advice by KASUYAHO