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Old 05-31-2011, 08:26 AM   #8821
slabm7
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Cochrane, AB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
hey someone want to offer me advice on the price/things to check for on this? not sure about year either.

really wanting a dual sport right now

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mcy/2406730577.html
Seems like a fair deal to me, that bike looks to be in pretty good shape.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:03 AM   #8822
cdogg44
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Location: 50 Miles From Oark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
hey someone want to offer me advice on the price/things to check for on this? not sure about year either.

really wanting a dual sport right now

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mcy/2406730577.html
I'm in Ft. Smith, Arkansas, which is close enough to OKC to be in the same market. I sold a 2002 XR650R in great shape that had been uncorked and with Cycra handguards and different bars along with a clear title and tag back in April for $2850. I had it listed for $3000 and was happy with what I got.

If it's clean with an absolutely 100% legit title and tag (the hardest thing to find) then it's worth $3000 but $2700 or so should be possible depending on the seller.

Hope that helps.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:28 AM   #8823
PeteN95
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Location: Muk, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonebag View Post
Will the XR still do a wheelie on command with an auto clutch..forgive my weakness..just never rode a bike with one. What are the benefits outside the obvious single track ones? Thanks
Yes, easily in 1st thru 3rd, and with a rise or tug in 4th, that's with 15/45 gearing. My CRF450R will wheelie in all 5 gears with the auto clutch. Advantages of auto clutch include, no stalling, never in wrong gear (because it will automatically slip to power), hole shots if racing, ability to add rear hand brake, increased rear tire life, and basically reduced rider workload.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:34 AM   #8824
jtworldwide2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyMoto View Post
Gatos,

I've never run a set on an XRR, but I can say that there was a big difference, to me, between a conventional fork 1999 EXC300 and a USD 2000 EXC300, ridden back to back. Not so much on the big hits or cruising, but on all the little stutter bumps and also on the square edge stuff.

That loss of unsprung weight on the lowers seems to make it react quicker on those types of bumps. My two cents, anyway.

I'd be interested to try a set of USD's from a 2006 or newer CRF that were revalved by Precision Concepts like the conventional set I have on there right now, so it would be an apples to apples comparison. I'd probably want to do so with Emig's new design triples that mimic the XRR factory offset, too, to keep it even more "alike".

Now the hard part, finding someone to finance the comparison .
I have a set of Ohlins sumo CRF forks on my piggy. Granted its setup for supermoto so the stockers sucked to begin with, but the Ohlins stuff is lights out better than the stockers.
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:09 AM   #8825
Bonebag
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Wisconsin..Hot,Cold and everything in Between
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
hey someone want to offer me advice on the price/things to check for on this? not sure about year either.

really wanting a dual sport right now

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mcy/2406730577.html
Looks pretty clean..if he hasn't uncorked it yet and it's clean all the way around..snag it, change oil, uncork it and flail the living hell out of it!! My .02

If he has uncorked it..perfect..less work for you. Look for wear around the frame and on the sides of the motor to give you an idea on mileage..the less wear..the lower mileage..if there is no or barely any wear..chances are nobody rode it with off road boots on
Probably a low mileage stocker that rarely saw off road conditions..that said..swing arm bearing maintenance would be on my list shortly..
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:55 AM   #8826
Purcell69
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,828
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
hey someone want to offer me advice on the price/things to check for on this? not sure about year either.

really wanting a dual sport right now

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mcy/2406730577.html
I'd have to wonder why he's only put 400 miles on it since he bought it and is now looking to sell. Also the 2001's still had issues with the clutch bushing. Not much of an issue until you get into traffic. You may want to confirm the clutch bushing has been updated. From the pictures, it looks clean, though I doubt I'd give full asking price, the bike is 10 years old. Try to find out what history you can from the seller, but with so few miles since purchased, he may not be much help. Don't take his word for gospel, he's trying to sell you the bike.

FWIW, I bought my plated '02 in Missouri in 2009 for $2800 and pretty much ride several times a week. I've added over 7,000 miles to it since purchase with no real issues other than rear wheel bearings.

-Joe
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:09 PM   #8827
aaronp1264
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hey thanks, i'm trying to get all the info out of the guy that I can. the more i think about having an enduro the more comfortable i feel with dropping 90% of my savings on a bike. internet message boards can be so damn helpful.
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:45 PM   #8828
RallyMoto
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Location: Monterey Bay, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
hey thanks, i'm trying to get all the info out of the guy that I can. the more i think about having an enduro the more comfortable i feel with dropping 90% of my savings on a bike. internet message boards can be so damn helpful.
I can't speak about that particular bike, but the XRR is about the best "do it all" moto there is. Incredibly reliable and simple to work on. Parts are decently priced, too.
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:43 PM   #8829
Big_John
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
hey thanks, i'm trying to get all the info out of the guy that I can. the more i think about having an enduro the more comfortable i feel with dropping 90% of my savings on a bike. internet message boards can be so damn helpful.

Buy a 650R if you have dirt riding, handy and available. If you are going to be doing more pavement/fire roads.....you should point yourself toward a KRL or a Beemer 650 Dakar or VStrom (all three can be purchased used for $3-$4k).



Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyMoto View Post
I can't speak about that particular bike, but the XRR is about the best "do it all" moto there is. Incredibly reliable and simple to work on. Parts are decently priced, too.

I will mostly agree.....but the XR650R is not an Adventure Bike, so to speak. In other words, there is no way I would buy this bike for rides that would involve long pavement runs....coast to coast ADV Rides, etc. I can only stand about about 100 miles on the pavement at highway speeds.
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:49 PM   #8830
Purcell69
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Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
hey thanks, i'm trying to get all the info out of the guy that I can. the more i think about having an enduro the more comfortable i feel with dropping 90% of my savings on a bike. internet message boards can be so damn helpful.
PM sent.

-Joe
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:10 PM   #8831
Rydah
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Clear Lake, TX
Oddometer: 210
Question Desperate!!!

Guys, need to remove my swingarm, and wanted to see if anyone on here has a set of those swingarm locknut removal sockets that I could borrow. I'll be of course glad to pay for shipping to/from you, and I need them ASAP.
Thanks.

Please email me at rrjadus@gmail.com

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Old 05-31-2011, 07:25 PM   #8832
AKASY
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Sockets

I made a set--heck it would be quicker to just make them up.
http://www.xr650r.us/preload/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydah View Post
Guys, need to remove my swingarm, and wanted to see if anyone on here has a set of those swingarm locknut removal sockets that I could borrow. I'll be of course glad to pay for shipping to/from you, and I need them ASAP.
Thanks.

Please email me at rrjadus@gmail.com
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:34 AM   #8833
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydah View Post
Guys, need to remove my swingarm, and wanted to see if anyone on here has a set of those swingarm locknut removal sockets that I could borrow. I'll be of course glad to pay for shipping to/from you, and I need them ASAP.
Thanks.

Please email me at rrjadus@gmail.com

I don't have the ones I made anymore otherwise I would offer them up. In about 2 weeks I will be in a place to be able to make some again, and could send you a pair. I have access to a whole drawer of old sockets to cut up. I will be making two more for me anyway as my swinger needs to come off again.

But its not expensive to buy a grinder(30ish) and get a couple old sockets from a used tool place. Spend 30 minutes doing it and there you are. I use my grinder for everything. A hacksaw, a grinder, and a drill are three tools I should have bought a long time ago.



And a pic of my Xr just for the hell of it. Its got a busted transmission/clutch/something and will be getting rebuilt(again) in a couple weeks.

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Old 06-01-2011, 04:58 AM   #8834
BuRPsa
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Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Gents,

got a Question.

I'd like to run my Spal-fan also (got 2 diff tanks) under my 7G IMS-tank but, as you may know, this tank won't allow that space-wise.
I have read that some of you, Jesus one of them, have an FCR-carb mounted, and one needs to "make space" for this thing, by 'denting' the tank. This is done by heating & deforming, + I presume keeping it there whilst it cools off.


My tank is clear/translucent, I'd hate to burn or burn-mark it when heating up. Also, I'm presuming that it is made of HDPE, but correct me if I'm wrong pls.

Those who have done this before, pls tell me how to proceed, what to watch out for - and especially, what not to do, which went wrong when you did it?
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:03 AM   #8835
JustinT OP
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: The Great US
Oddometer: 952
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtard View Post
i need to replace the headgasket on my pig, and im thinking of doing the cam chain at the same time. does anyone have any tips on doin the chain and what chain to use(oem or a wiseco)? how do i remove the chain from the bottom sprocket since there is that piece of the case that doesnt let it come off? also thinkin of doin a stage one cam....maybe. anything else to do why im in there? i just replaced the cam chain guides but i had to button it up with the used gasket cause i didnt have time to wait for a new one at the time
I have heard of some using a Cam Chain tool and breaking the cam chain on some bikes to prevent from removing the rt crank case cover. so maybe someone will chime in on that. (may not be an option for our bikes...I didn't even try)

I don't have a chain breaker so I just got the gasket and removed the right crank case cover. remove the clutch, and the the primary gear that is adjacent to the clutch. (you will put the clutch outer back on so you can hold the primary gear still while you break the lock nut free) From there with the cam removed you can get the cam chain on and fish it up and reinstall the cam. (if you have had the head off then you know the rest of it.)

There are some O-rings, Gaskets, and an oil screen that can be cleaned/replaced while its open.

As far as OEM vs Wiseco? For something like this I'd go OEM and maybe even the HRC Cam chain and sprockets?
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