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Old 12-07-2008, 02:06 PM   #76
badcooky
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You will end up revalving it anyway so get it all done at the same time.
I'd go straight rate as well.
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Old 12-08-2008, 05:18 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badcooky
You will end up revalving it anyway so get it all done at the same time.
I'd go straight rate as well.
Thanks Badcooky,
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Old 12-09-2008, 06:33 AM   #78
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PCV Valve?

Has any one put a PCV valve on the BRP? I know a lot of KLR riders put them on there bikes, to stop the blow by of oil.

Also, Does any one know any body with a used TM40?
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:28 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOSCERVASAS
Has any one put a PCV valve on the BRP? I know a lot of KLR riders put them on there bikes, to stop the blow by of oil.

Also, Does any one know any body with a used TM40?
I'm not 100% familar with the function of the PCV but does it filter out the oil? I thought it was more a valve and that mist of oil would get by? You may be correct at its function, I guess I haven't seen much blow-by symptoms to bother me yet.
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Old 12-09-2008, 10:47 AM   #80
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BRP valve adjustment

The book says to pull your left side case and spin to Top Dead Center with a wrench to line the "T" up with the "notch", but there's a nice little hex plug that you can take out to see the "T"... is it ok to put the bike up on a stand and instead of spinning to TDC with a wrench, just spin the wheel in gear to line up and then adjust the valves? Seems reasonable (and a lot easier) than pulling the side cover off.
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Old 12-09-2008, 10:52 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GISkev
The book says to pull your left side case and spin to Top Dead Center with a wrench to line the "T" up with the "notch", but there's a nice little hex plug that you can take out to see the "T"... is it ok to put the bike up on a stand and instead of spinning to TDC with a wrench, just spin the wheel in gear to line up and then adjust the valves? Seems reasonable (and a lot easier) than pulling the side cover off.
are you going to do valve adjustments?

I've had good results like you described ...better with the wheel than with the kickstarter, I find the kickstarter has a tendency to make the flywheel bounce backwards at time and not be as smooth and if you have a stock cam the autodecompressor will engage causing your valve adjustments to be off. So make sure its a constant slow movement to TDC and I think you should be fine!
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:19 PM   #82
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Oil Blow by

Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Rking
I'm not 100% familar with the function of the PCV but does it filter out the oil? I thought it was more a valve and that mist of oil would get by? You may be correct at its function, I guess I haven't seen much blow-by symptoms to bother me yet.
I didn't explain my self very good. This goes on your case breather, so on long runs you do not loose oil, mist, out of your case breather.

I am looking to go 1000 miles (for my iron butt patch), and I have heard of loosing a lot of oil on long slab running.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:34 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Rking
are you going to do valve adjustments?

I've had good results like you described ...better with the wheel than with the kickstarter, I find the kickstarter has a tendency to make the flywheel bounce backwards at time and not be as smooth and if you have a stock cam the autodecompressor will engage causing your valve adjustments to be off. So make sure its a constant slow movement to TDC and I think you should be fine!
I've got a friend that showed me how last weekend... I sort of helped, and it seems all went well. The only part that made me nervous was that before the adjustment we dialed it to TDC a few times with NO movement in the rockers, which made me think that we weren't at TDC, but my friend said that my valves were just way too tight, and that i should have done it awhile ago. I just had the bike out and it feels fine. I read that it should sound like a sewing machine if it's done correctly, and i don't think it has that sound really.

Should i ride it around and then go check the tolerances again? I'm amazed at how "easy" it is to get in there and tinker!
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:27 PM   #84
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Never use the kicker to get TDC as it brings the auto decomp on.
Turn the crank backwards at the flywheel.
I don't have an auto decomp so i'm good.
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:30 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOSCERVASAS
I didn't explain my self very good. This goes on your case breather, so on long runs you do not loose oil, mist, out of your case breather.

I am looking to go 1000 miles (for my iron butt patch), and I have heard of loosing a lot of oil on long slab running.
You did fine, and I followed you I just never thought of a PCV valve limiting oil blow by since it would be in suspension in the air? But I'm not saying you are wrong just haven't thought of it for limiting oil loss? for a cheap piece I don't think it could hurt anything.

I did 700 miles in one weekend and didn't notice any oil volume loss. I have heard about these piggies loosing oil as well but understood it to coincide with hard accelerations and such (I've noticed it more after a few weekends of offroad only riding) but I haven't ridden a consistent 1000 miles in under 24hrs, I'd think consistent speeds should limit oil loss but let us know how it goes!
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:33 PM   #86
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what about a Procom aftermarket high performance CDI Box/ Rev. Kit/ Igniter.

Worth having?

also, what's "reasonable" valve adjustment schedule? book says 600 miles. ya, right... I was thinking i'd do 'em every time i put a new back tire on.
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:34 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badcooky
Never use the kicker to get TDC as it brings the auto decomp on.
Turn the crank backwards at the flywheel.
I don't have an auto decomp so i'm good.
Agreed...

Quote:
I've got a friend that showed me how last weekend... I sort of helped, and it seems all went well. The only part that made me nervous was that before the adjustment we dialed it to TDC a few times with NO movement in the rockers, which made me think that we weren't at TDC, but my friend said that my valves were just way too tight, and that i should have done it awhile ago. I just had the bike out and it feels fine. I read that it should sound like a sewing machine if it's done correctly, and i don't think it has that sound really.

Should i ride it around and then go check the tolerances again? I'm amazed at how "easy" it is to get in there and tinker!
also this bike won't sound like a sewing machine because its noisy by nature and if you have an aluminum skid plate it amplifies it and directs it up!

its better for valves to be on the noisy side than on the tight side. But you can't hurt anything by learning if you want to recheck the clearance.
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:54 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GISkev
what about a Procom aftermarket high performance CDI Box/ Rev. Kit/ Igniter.

Worth having?

also, what's "reasonable" valve adjustment schedule? book says 600 miles. ya, right... I was thinking i'd do 'em every time i put a new back tire on.
Not familiar with the aftermarket CDI but as far as the valve adjustment goes I'd at least check it per recommendations or ...every couple of months (depending on how much you ride a month), with these valves known for sinking into the soft head its major problems if it gets away from you. Its < 10 min process if the tank is already off. I check mine every oil change and sometimes more often because I have my tank off frequently just tinkering and its so easy to pop the covers and rotate to TDC and slip a gauge under...usually it doesn't require adjusting and I throw it back together! So I know you don't want to hear it and it is your bike so the ultimate decision is yours but they recommend 600 miles for a reason. Better than the CRF which requires it like every few riding hours! Just my opinon.
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:02 PM   #89
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after seeing how easy it is i'm not as concerned about the interval... I could use a little practice anyway...

I'll be watching this thread!
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:34 PM   #90
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GIS kev the xr400 CDI bolts straight on and gives 2 more advance from idle about the same all in advance but revs to 9500 or so where the stocker revs to 8300.
In the USA you have to get the same box as the 96 model as it's got the full 2 degrees at idle.
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badcooky screwed with this post 12-10-2008 at 02:56 AM
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