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Old 09-14-2011, 10:08 AM   #10156
larryboy
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sect8dr View Post
I have a 2009 KTM 690 SMC and i have the chance to trade an inmate for a 2000 XRR, it has had a lot of work done to it, engine has been completly rebuilt by millenium technologies, suspension has eibach springs front and rear, has full supermoto setup and a set of excell dirt wheels too, it is for sale in the flea market, the deal is his bike plus 3000 for my bike, my bike has 4600 miles on it and a tank bag, other than that it is stock, just wondering if it would be a good deal or not, any input would be helpfull. Sounds like a decent deal just dont feel like getting boned any more

I'd do it, I haven't been able to sell a bike outright since the market tanked, trades are where it's at. Best of both worlds for that XRR.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:28 AM   #10157
sect8dr
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trade

Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'd do it, I haven't been able to sell a bike outright since the market tanked, trades are where it's at. Best of both worlds for that XRR.
Thats kind of what i am thinking, been hearing some funny things about those 690's and i am not looking forward to having it in the shop all the time
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:26 PM   #10158
lstzephyr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Turns out I *might* have found my issue last night.

I've put some thought into this and had an idea of what might be causing it. Without trying I noticed it might be the case. It has something to do with what you mentioned above.

I was coming home, driving up my driveway and stopping in gear. My driveway has a slight incline so the bike would roll back a bit and stop with engine compression while putting it on it's sidestand.

What I think this is doing is causing my kickback decompression to engage, and with storage the oil is being drained away from the mechanism causing it to "hang" come time to restart.

Well last night, after doing the same thing I pulled in the decomp lever to find it's already fully engaged. Small turn of the motor and it released itself.

I think my issues are with me storing the bike for a few days/weeks, etc with the kickback decomp engaged and as mentioned, causing it to not want to release leaving me with little compression.

I'm fairly confident that if I take note of this I'll likely never have the issue again. Thoughts?

Sounds like a perfectly reasonable explanation to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sect8dr View Post
Thats kind of what i am thinking, been hearing some funny things about those 690's and i am not looking forward to having it in the shop all the time
Sounds like a good trade to me. Especially with the sm and upgraded dirt wheels. 3000 extra can't hurt either. The XR should be more reliable in the long run.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:00 PM   #10159
cdogg44
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Who is running Unabiker radiator guards? Would you have any pics of how they mount? Especially the back right side?

I took my Devol guards off when my bike was running hot and it seemed to help some (although not as much as I'd hoped), and am now contemplating going back with Unabikers because there isn't much too the Devols.

In fact, does anybody make a set of radiator guards that are just the frame around the radiators and not the "screen" in front of them? Just basically crash bars and then I'd run the stock plastic fins in front. I'd hate for a direct drop on a rock to ruin a Fluidyne, but I do think it runs cooler (10-15*) with the stock plastic fins.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:03 PM   #10160
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44 View Post
Who is running Unabiker radiator guards? Would you have any pics of how they mount? Especially the back right side?

I took my Devol guards off when my bike was running hot and it seemed to help some (although not as much as I'd hoped), and am now contemplating going back with Unabikers because there isn't much too the Devols.

In fact, does anybody make a set of radiator guards that are just the frame around the radiators and not the "screen" in front of them? Just basically crash bars and then I'd run the stock plastic fins in front. I'd hate for a direct drop on a rock to ruin a Fluidyne, but I do think it runs cooler (10-15*) with the stock plastic fins.

I'll see if I can get pics. I have them and love them. The downside for you is they do cover the front of the rads and have braces going across the back and between rad cages.

I can understand in different terrain the frontal protection isn't wanted, but for riding bush it's highly needed. Plus they tend to be a lot stronger then the exterior frames which I tend to stay away from for that very reason. I've seen many of those frame style bend the rads, where I have yet to see a caged, quality, rad guard bend (within reason).

I should have pics at home and will try to upload tonight.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:20 PM   #10161
jm-2008
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[QUOTE=Shibby!;16853584]Turns out I *might* have found my issue last night.

I've put some thought into this and had an idea of what might be causing it. Without trying I noticed it might be the case. It has something to do with what you mentioned above.

I was coming home, driving up my driveway and stopping in gear. My driveway has a slight incline so the bike would roll back a bit and stop with engine compression while putting it on it's sidestand.

What I think this is doing is causing my kickback decompression to engage, and with storage the oil is being drained away from the mechanism causing it to "hang" come time to restart.

Well last night, after doing the same thing I pulled in the decomp lever to find it's already fully engaged. Small turn of the motor and it released itself.

I think my issues are with me storing the bike for a few days/weeks, etc with the kickback decomp engaged and as mentioned, causing it to not want to release leaving me with little compression.

I'm fairly confident that if I take note of this I'll likely never have the issue again. Thoughts?


Good to hear you may have found some direction.
Be sure to post an update.

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Old 09-14-2011, 05:01 PM   #10162
KASUYAHO
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Aussie Land
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
[QUOTE=Shibby!;16853584]Turns out I *might* have found my issue last night.

I've put some thought into this and had an idea of what might be causing it. Without trying I noticed it might be the case. It has something to do with what you mentioned above.

I was coming home, driving up my driveway and stopping in gear. My driveway has a slight incline so the bike would roll back a bit and stop with engine compression while putting it on it's sidestand.

What I think this is doing is causing my kickback decompression to engage, and with storage the oil is being drained away from the mechanism causing it to "hang" come time to restart.

Well last night, after doing the same thing I pulled in the decomp lever to find it's already fully engaged. Small turn of the motor and it released itself.

I think my issues are with me storing the bike for a few days/weeks, etc with the kickback decomp engaged and as mentioned, causing it to not want to release leaving me with little compression.

I'm fairly confident that if I take note of this I'll likely never have the issue again. Thoughts?


Good to hear you may have found some direction.
Be sure to post an update.

What type of oil are you using JM ?
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:11 PM   #10163
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
What type of oil are you using JM ?
I don't think it has any relevance so I'll leave the name out of it. It is an oil rated for wet clutch.

I don't know how the kickback mechanism works so whatever is causing it to "stick" or hang could be something completely different then oil. I'll try to look into it but I have a feeling storing the bike this way is the reason it's doing it.
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:35 AM   #10164
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
I don't think it has any relevance so I'll leave the name out of it. It is an oil rated for wet clutch.

I don't know how the kickback mechanism works so whatever is causing it to "stick" or hang could be something completely different then oil. I'll try to look into it but I have a feeling storing the bike this way is the reason it's doing it.

The auto-decomp has a one way clutch on the end of the camshaft.

It is called a sprag clutch, the same design as what is in automatic transmissions like the Chrysler Torqueflite.
Basically rollers and waffer springs that relocate the rollers.

What happens if you run an oil that is know not that good of quality of oil the oil breaks down,
or oil changes are not frequent.

Broken down oil if you have seen what it is like it sticky, when it is not hot.
I believe this is what your experiencing with your non compression issue.
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:08 AM   #10165
jm-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
What type of oil are you using JM ?
Belray Thumper 20/50

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Old 09-15-2011, 08:35 AM   #10166
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
The auto-decomp has a one way clutch on the end of the camshaft.

It is called a sprag clutch, the same design as what is in automatic transmissions like the Chrysler Torqueflite.
Basically rollers and waffer springs that relocate the rollers.

What happens if you run an oil that is know not that good of quality of oil the oil breaks down,
or oil changes are not frequent.

Broken down oil if you have seen what it is like it sticky, when it is not hot.
I believe this is what your experiencing with your non compression issue.
Using Rotella T. The non-synth version (15-40 i think). Currently has 900km (562miles) on it.

Got out testing the XRR / TM combo last night again. 142.5 pulls noticeably stronger then the 140main. I'll be reverting to and keeping it at 142.5. (3450ft, 16 degrees Celcius, 47% humidity)

I have yet to play with the needle, but it depends how easy my tank is to reinstall if I'm going to play around more with that. It pulls pretty good, but my mind always wonders if it can be better.

I've decided I'll change out the pilot too to the next size larger. I do need some help and feel stupid asking this question, but I'm assuming the 22.5 is RICHER then a 25?

When I had the 20 in I had the A/F screw all the way in, now with the 25 I have the a/f screw almost all the way out (2-7/8)

Being that the screw is on the fuel side it's generally known as a fuel screw vs an airscrew. So just looking for confirmation that a 22.5 (richer then a 25) would likely net me around 1.5 turns out on the fuel screw... I think I'm confusing myself. haha.

With mains isn't the larger number richer? Yet the pilots on the TM's are leaner? Or am I on crack?Maybe it's an air screw and not a fuel screw..
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095


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Old 09-15-2011, 09:13 AM   #10167
Garthe
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Location: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post

I should have pics at home and will try to upload tonight.
If you don't have one...I might be able to take one. I run the fluidynes and unibiker. The rad guards (and Fliudynes) are a pain in the ass to install. It's nobodys fault, it just is what it is. It's worth the effort...
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:04 AM   #10168
cdogg44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
If you don't have one...I might be able to take one. I run the fluidynes and unibiker. The rad guards (and Fliudynes) are a pain in the ass to install. It's nobodys fault, it just is what it is. It's worth the effort...
Would you rate them any better than Devol guards? I'm wanting to mount a fan to my bike, but want to get settled in on my radiator guards before I finally do. However, I will say that my bike didn't get the proper airflow at low speeds to cool itself down in hot weather with the Devol guards, and while not much better, the stock plastic fins did seem to work better. And that has me wondering if the Unabikers are going to be just as restrictive as the Devols seem to be.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:58 AM   #10169
JIPPERR
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Location: Vancouver Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Being that the screw is on the fuel side it's generally known as a fuel screw vs an airscrew. So just looking for confirmation that a 22.5 (richer then a 25) would likely net me around 1.5 turns out on the fuel screw... I think I'm confusing myself. haha.

With mains isn't the larger number richer? Yet the pilots on the TM's are leaner? Or am I on crack?Maybe it's an air screw and not a fuel screw..
I think you got that backwards Shibby! Bigger numbers for richer pilot jets on the TM40, unscrewing the mix screw makes it richer. With my open header and pipe i ended up at a 30 pilot jet and 1.1 air jet. Not sure how many turns out (at sea level in 60 degree f temps)

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Old 09-15-2011, 10:58 AM   #10170
JIPPERR
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TM40 tuning guide just in case you don't have it :)

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hs40_manual.pdf
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