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Old 09-24-2011, 03:01 PM   #10246
islano
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Ballistic

Could you show me how the battery is strapped please?
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:22 PM   #10247
iqbaliqbal
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Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
yep that will work too
but i forgot to mention that you have to have the cover press up againt the engine while your tucking as to hold it in place until your all the way around and some grease can also hold it in a little for you as you work

I'll try the Tuck N Stuff method first...thanks Gents!
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Old 09-24-2011, 04:51 PM   #10248
XRx
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BD DSK Park Light Bulb Part Number? Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit

My bulb fell into the bike and I couldn't find it. Now I don't know what bulb I need to find. I can't find on the BD website either, they only seem to sell the whole mini harness that comes with the bulb and doesn't mention what bulb. Also tried a thread search and a google search and no luck, so maybe one of you guys has it apart and can look which bulb it would be much appreciated thanks.
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Old 09-24-2011, 04:55 PM   #10249
RideFreak
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Location: Out in the NM Dez somewhere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqbaliqbal View Post
I'm losing my mind trying to get a new o-ring to fit in the groove of my '03 XR650R Clutch Cover!

I cleaned the groove hoping to get the o-ring to seat as "deep" as possible.

I also tried the o-ring-in-the-freezer trick, and I still have about 1/4 inch of excess o-ring.

Does anyone of an alternate trick? I'm dangerously close to cutting the o-ring and using a dab of silicone!

Thanks guys!
Mine was slightly large also, the method I used was to put very small dabs of silicone in the grove about every inch (very minimal amount) and then inserted the oring and let it setup a little, just enough to hold it. There was some minor budging of the oring between each of the silicone spots but when spread out over the entire circumference it was barely noticeable and the oring was seated enough to put the cover on without pinching the anything. I set the oring in the sun prior to make it more pliable. I've also seen it done with dabs of grease.
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Old 09-24-2011, 05:17 PM   #10250
Johnny55
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Has anyone had good luck with the Renthal Alloy rear sprockets? I bought it and now I am having second thoughts. I have a steel sprocket now that has an untold amount of miles on it. I know I have put atleast 3000 on it and it was half worn out when I bought the bike. I have the steel Renthal front sprocket and Regina chain. I want them all to last about the same amount of time as replacing one component at 4000 miles(estimate) is obviously bad for the other 2. Advice?
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Old 09-24-2011, 06:04 PM   #10251
iqbaliqbal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Mine was slightly large also, the method I used was to put very small dabs of silicone in the grove about every inch (very minimal amount) and then inserted the oring and let it setup a little, just enough to hold it. There was some minor budging of the oring between each of the silicone spots but when spread out over the entire circumference it was barely noticeable and the oring was seated enough to put the cover on without pinching the anything. I set the oring in the sun prior to make it more pliable. I've also seen it done with dabs of grease.
Thanks RF! I got the Tuck N Stuff to work...I'll see how it holds up, but initially, it looks like its holding up. I know this wont be my last time to remove that cover, so the next time, I'll try you method.

Now, I need to sort out my my Edelbrock has a slight over-rev/lean condition!
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:01 PM   #10252
aiMhi
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: SODE- Colorado
Oddometer: 686
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordMDP View Post
Hey Guys: i'm trying to hardwire my garmin 2720 GPS to my stock XR

I bought the Garmin motorcycle hardwire kit

I put bullet connectors on the red and black leads and plugged them into my tail light connectors under the seat to see if it would work

IT DIDN'T

it turns on when I connect it directly to a battery

so whats the problem--all I need is a 12v DC source from my bike, right?

Hi -You dont need to spend $500 on a BAJA kit.

I also run a stock XR650R and I dont run a battery at all and no capacitor. I run my cellphone, and whatever needs 12v DC off my cigarette lighter that I connected to a 25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier from Radio Shack, it cost me $3.49. Just tap one of the legs coming from the stator and wire it up to the Bridge Rectifier. Let me know if you need pictures of the specifics. My 35W headlight burns bright (I dont ride at night but is fine), my SPAL fan works just great and my rear LED brake light functions. I am thinking of converting my front headlamp to a LED bulb replacement....that I want to assemble...will see how that goes.

It works awesome, my GPS is an Android Incredible and then use GAIA GPS app that you can download full topographic maps for free over wifi and then upload it to the phone. It gives me everything a regular GPS gives, waypoints, upload GPX tracks, download it, track my position real-time except my screen is a little glossy.

Anyways, it has worked for over a 1000 miles to Moab and riding the Rocky Mountains in Colorado.

Less is more
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:14 PM   #10253
JTucker
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Location: West By God Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarkBRP View Post
Hi -You dont need to spend $500 on a BAJA kit.

I also run a stock XR650R and I dont run a battery at all and no capacitor. I run my cellphone, and whatever needs 12v DC off my cigarette lighter that I connected to a 25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier from Radio Shack, it cost me $3.49. Just tap one of the legs coming from the stator and wire it up to the Bridge Rectifier. Let me know if you need pictures of the specifics. My 35W headlight burns bright (I dont ride at night but is fine), my SPAL fan works just great and my rear LED brake light functions. I am thinking of converting my front headlamp to a LED bulb replacement....that I want to assemble...will see how that goes.

It works awesome, my GPS is an Android Incredible and then use GAIA GPS app that you can download full topographic maps for free over wifi and then upload it to the phone. It gives me everything a regular GPS gives, waypoints, upload GPX tracks, download it, track my position real-time except my screen is a little glossy.

Anyways, it has worked for over a 1000 miles to Moab and riding the Rocky Mountains in Colorado.

Less is more
I'd like to see this setup, what stator are you using?
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:59 AM   #10254
SpeedoJosh
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I'm about to lose it with this tank. I just got this thing out of the classifieds, and can not get it to stop leaking. Yesterday I put a small amount of gasket maker down in-between in the petcock and tank, tightened up the screws, let it sit for awhile. Still leaked from in-between the tank and petcock. Repeated process with a generous amount of gasket maker, worked for about 3 minutes, then started leaking again.
It appears that one of the anchors for the screws hangs out just slightly from the petcock outline, which I'm guessing is affecting the seal. Not sure though, this is my only stock tank, so all stocks one could be like that for all I know. Anyone have success stoping a leak from their tank like this. I can't see any cracks, so it has to be a seal issue, and can't figure out why the gasket maker didn't work. I used the non hardening gasket maker, think I should switch to the stuff the gets rock hard?
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:29 AM   #10255
JTucker
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Try some gasket maker that will work for gas. Just double up on the seals. It usually works.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:33 AM   #10256
larryboy
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Buy another tank, good grief.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:38 AM   #10257
jungleplant
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Location: ManRacks, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedoJosh View Post
I'm about to lose it with this tank. I just got this thing out of the classifieds, and can not get it to stop leaking. Yesterday I put a small amount of gasket maker down in-between in the petcock and tank, tightened up the screws, let it sit for awhile. Still leaked from in-between the tank and petcock. Repeated process with a generous amount of gasket maker, worked for about 3 minutes, then started leaking again.
It appears that one of the anchors for the screws hangs out just slightly from the petcock outline, which I'm guessing is affecting the seal. Not sure though, this is my only stock tank, so all stocks one could be like that for all I know. Anyone have success stoping a leak from their tank like this. I can't see any cracks, so it has to be a seal issue, and can't figure out why the gasket maker didn't work. I used the non hardening gasket maker, think I should switch to the stuff the gets rock hard?
sounds like the hole is split or cracked and the more you screw it in the bigger the crack gets , if thats the case you cant fix it, , unles you drill bigger hole and retap
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:31 PM   #10258
Big_John
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Oddometer: 2,985
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Its about as easy as it gets, but you need to swing the subframe up, or really man handle the airbox connector to get at the top mounting bolt. What really helps is a closed end wrench on the nut and a allen key ball end to get to the bolt at an off angle.

The bottom fork bolt is torqued to 33ft-lbs. If I recall correction the top one is around 51 ft-lbs I think. Really tough to get a torque wrench on the top one because of lack of room. If required I can find out tonight.

Remember to torque the nuts, not the bolts. It does matter.

Once you have the shock off, simply remove the locking ring, then the preload ring (wind them off the threads to the top of the shock). Flip the shock upside down, pull the bumper down the damper shaft, take the retaining cup/ring off and the spring will pull right off.

Put new spring on and assemble in reverse. Really easy. Most difficult part is taking the shock off the bike. Lube the top bearing while you have it off the bike.

Preload to a MAXIMUM of 15mm (just over 1/2inch)

Install and enjoy. I beleive you said your forks were re-sprung already so you should now enjoy a balanced bike! It'll feel much, much better.

Yeah, it was a piece of cake. The hardest part was getting the Shock out of the bike to work on it.

The 12.0kg is way, way better.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:25 PM   #10259
jungleplant
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rear tire bottom out point

is there a bump stop on the rear tire so it wont hit the rear fender, ? if so what and where is it, mike
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:13 PM   #10260
larryboy
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 14,849
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
is there a bump stop on the rear tire so it wont hit the rear fender, ? if so what and where is it, mike

There is a rubber bumper inside the spring on the shock shaft. Air it out and the tire can touch the fender if the spring is too soft.
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