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Old 11-21-2011, 04:44 PM   #11461
DualSport650
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Joined: Apr 2004
Location: Bend, Oregon
Oddometer: 624
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealbigman View Post
Cool , where did you get it , and how much for the xrr kit , I think I saw them thru Sudco for like 750.00 any luck with any less than that.

I got it on eBay for $383 delivered from "keihin-fcr"
http://myworld.ebay.com/keihin-fcr/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

It's a 39mm but we're going to bore it out to 41mm.

If you want to pay full price, www.Sudco.com
has the whole kit for your XRR for around $700.

OR, you can buy one cheaper on eBay and buy a
couple/few parts from Sudco.com to fit your XRR.

Matt Worbes over at www.MTechMotorcycles.com
said you need an OLDER (few years older) FCR
with the BOLT-ON "flange" that attaches to the
carb in-between the carb and the airbox boot.

You need the right "flange" that works with the XRR
airbox boot.

When searching on ebay, look at the pictures
of the FCR carb and make sure it has the bolt on
"flange" on the airbox side.

It bolts on with 2 hex bolts I believe.

Here's the one I snagged...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270842100079...84.m1497.l2649

Then get the random XRR parts from Sudco.com


DualSport650 screwed with this post 11-21-2011 at 04:53 PM
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:27 PM   #11462
Rut Runner
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How to start XR after dropping it on right side

After a recent trip where I dumped my XR countless times, I have to finally ask the best procedure to restart it. It appears my XR will idle fine while completely horizontal on its left side, but will die quickly and become very hard to start if its dumped on its right hand side.

I know this question must have been asked before but the search engine didn't turn up anything.

Mike
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:29 PM   #11463
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rut Runner View Post
I know this question must have been asked before but the search engine didn't turn up anything.
Your the first...

The starting drill is the same...no matter which way the bike falls.
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:37 PM   #11464
DualSport650
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When mine won't start I do this...

* Open the throttle wide open.
* Then get it to TDC (Top Dead Center)
* Pull the decompression lever a little
* And give it a good HARD kick (with throttle WIDE OPEN)

Usually starts right the FVCK up!!!
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:45 PM   #11465
jungleplant
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Location: ManRacks, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rut Runner View Post
After a recent trip where I dumped my XR countless times, I have to finally ask the best procedure to restart it. It appears my XR will idle fine while completely horizontal on its left side, but will die quickly and become very hard to start if its dumped on its right hand side.

I know this question must have been asked before but the search engine didn't turn up anything.

Mike
I have heard a lot of guys say this
I just did a few laps around the Office and when i parked the pig inside the the office she peed all over the oak floors , so i took the float bowl off and yep set to high , and looked up in there and couldn't figure out why to fall over left or right , why should it matter every thing in the carb seems to be even left and right , but the wide open thing works
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:54 PM   #11466
seabee1
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Well, I finally did the deed. I swapped the mighty thumper for a 450. The xrr was a great ride, but apparently I wasn't up to it with the more technical stuff I like to do these days. Thanks for all the advise and tricks you guys taught me along the way!
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:03 PM   #11467
skibootdog
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baja

good move, 9 of the top 10 bikes at this years baja 1000 were CRF450X
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:23 PM   #11468
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabee1 View Post
Well, I finally did the deed. I swapped the mighty thumper for a 450. The xrr was a great ride, but apparently I wasn't up to it with the more technical stuff I like to do these days. Thanks for all the advise and tricks you guys taught me along the way!

Pictures...
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:30 PM   #11469
Shibby!
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carbs are to be mounted vertical, otherwise your float height will be wrong, the fundamental setting of jetting.

It'll work, but they "should" be vertical.

FCR was too pricey for this guy. Went with the TM and have been happy. My stock carb didn't have the studder others talk about.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:50 AM   #11470
BuRPsa
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Thanks RF, that makes sense.


I've got the Ross (std bore!) 11:1 piston at home, from XRsOnly, waiting for time to mount. I had it (optional) ceramic-coated, which turns out to be a surprisingly thin layer of stuff on the crown, almost transparent.
The skirt (under ring fields) is also coated, with (I presume, dunno for sure) Teflon or similar, slippery stuff. I didn't expect this to be so but don't complain, I have to assume this is part of the 'ceramic coating' option (ask them?).

I bought it from them when they had only 1 'ad' listed, where it was specifically mentioned that one did not know what brand one would get. Turned out to be a Ross which, visually, is a work of art, I just know you will like it. I recently bought a Wiseco piston (for a CRF230F, also h/c), but this Ross-one looks a lot better finished (if that is a fair comparison at all).

I see there's 2 different 'ads' on XRs' site now - which are confusing to say the least, they mix brands it would seem!
Anyway, they list the weights of the various pistons:
  • AL BAKER'S XR'S ONLY / ROSS PISTON - 334 grams
  • HONDA OEM PISTONS - 348 grams
  • JE PISTONS - 404 grams
  • WISECO PISTONS - 404 grams
If you're going to buy one I'd phone them to make sure you'll get what you want.

These weights do not correspond with what was posted here - where the std piston is reported to be substantially heavier than the Ross. Might be due to the pin, dunno.
Tonight I'll weight the parts and will post the respective weights.
Mind, don't have the OEM to weigh, only the (coated) Ross, may just help someone.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:43 AM   #11471
seabee1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
Pictures...
coming today!
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:41 AM   #11472
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabee1 View Post
coming today!
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:11 AM   #11473
backdoc
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Usd

SO...I was finally able to take the pig riding after finishing the CRF-XRR USD conversion. I must admit that I like the look of the bike now a whole lot better as i'm partial to the gold anodized look. It mathces my gold anodized Unabiker radiator guards . AS for the handling on and off road..IMHO I think it handles much better than stock on the road and even better on the dirt. For all of the imates that helped with advise during the conversion a big THANK YOU is in order . I originally swapped the Clarke tank out for a Sahara tank, but the damn thing weighed so much and was uncomfortable on my thighs, so I went back to the Clarke tank and it rides 100% better.

Here it is with the Sahara tank.....the freakin thing is huge

I know its been a topic of much debate, but I must give a shout out to Mike at MANRACKS for providing me with a kick ass rack and under fender support for my XRR. I dont carry a whole lot of supplies or stuff when i ride, but it sure is nice when i have to .. The rear fender is solid as a rock and doesn't flop around like crazy anymore when i ride the woods or trails. I also love the MANRACK tie down brackets that mike sent. No more scraping up my pretty Renthal Fatties.

brackets on the top triple clamp

A shot of the Sahara tank and USD forks during the conversion.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:31 AM   #11474
Motomochila
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Enjoy the USD setup. I did see that you retained the stock CRF clamps. Emig racing makes a great set with a stabilizer setup you might like even better. I did that a few years back before retiring the old girl. She's now sporting a CBR 600 front clip with F/R wheels to boot. The evil canyon conversion is almost complete. Amazing beasts the BRP's, they can do so much.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:57 AM   #11475
FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
It leans out the intake charge by opening a secondary passage in the carb.



Did you replace the cam chain while you were in there? Replacing a worn CC helps smoothness a good bit also, mine needs it so I going to tear into it this winter, I was considering a JE piston but you got me thinking I might try the Ross with it's lightweight.
Yes I did a chain at the same time, But what I feel as for less vibration, is in my opinion a result of weight reduction of reciprocating weight.
The removed chain was in really good shape. I suspect it was only at most 2 deg. retarded of a new chain chain?
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