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Old 11-22-2011, 11:33 AM   #11476
FlyGuy
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Middle of Highway 1 California
Oddometer: 165
[QUOTE=backdoc;17358460]SO...I was finally able to take the pig riding after finishing the CRF-XRR USD conversion. I must admit that I like the look of the bike now a whole lot better as i'm partial to the gold anodized look. It mathces my gold anodized Unabiker radiator guards . AS for the handling on and off road..IMHO I think it handles much better than stock on the road and even better on the dirt. For all of the imates that helped with advise during the conversion a big THANK YOU is in order . I originally swapped the Clarke tank out for a Sahara tank, but the damn thing weighed so much and was uncomfortable on my thighs, so I went back to the Clarke tank and it rides 100% better.

Yea Baby that a great update.
I know there used to be some debate on USDs on the aluminum frame But the difference in control in cross ruts and going across ruts at angles is superior, way more lines to chose from in the rough stuff
On the road its more stable as well.
Make sure you have the right springs for your weight before you get to far from home.

Here is what I did on stabilizer.
Its a billet CR500 upper triple for fatty bars. I used a spacer tube on stem and a few miniutes on a mill to clear frame. and am able to use the stock scott setup for the XR
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:38 PM   #11477
RideFreak
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FG, bike's looking good!
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:58 PM   #11478
seabee1
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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gonna give this photo posting a try....

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Old 11-22-2011, 05:00 PM   #11479
lstzephyr
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Location: Huntsville, Al
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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...w/o9a-33UqMEE/

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...4/SxD-vIQ-VPo/

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h...M/77DUQhxkM-E/

I couldn't see them too well, so I linked bigger versions. Nice bike!


All this piston, cam chain, valve talk is interesting! You guys are helping me decide on parts, and scaring me into checking my valves and cam chain.

Motomochilla- post a pic of your hybrid please!
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:20 PM   #11480
seabee1
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try again. thanks for the assist, istzephyr! ^^^
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:31 PM   #11481
Garthe
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Arizona
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Don's new CRF 450 X





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Old 11-22-2011, 05:38 PM   #11482
RideFreak
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Nice CRF
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:43 PM   #11483
seabee1
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thanks. sorry for the hijack of the xrr thread, i'm just kinda excited!
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:45 PM   #11484
skibootdog
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stock to lite

took my oem piston to local machine shop, they removed from the sides and under the top. the result is a piston that comes in at 296g
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:14 PM   #11485
StevefrmGV
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Location: Nor Cal.
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Wiring Help - Front Brake / Brake Light

Howdy
My new to me XR has the Baja Designs DS `kit and is street legal in Ca. The PO has installed the front brake switch but did not wire it in. I have the wire diagram for the kit but it does not show a front brk Lt. What is the best way to hook this up? Thanks
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:30 PM   #11486
XRx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevefrmGV View Post
Howdy
My new to me XR has the Baja Designs DS `kit and is street legal in Ca. The PO has installed the front brake switch but did not wire it in. I have the wire diagram for the kit but it does not show a front brk Lt. What is the best way to hook this up? Thanks
I can't see mine without taking parts off at the moment, but I believe I just spliced it in parallel with the rear brake switch wires, meaning connect it to the rear brake switch wires, and it should work, though someone correct me if I'm having a brain fart.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:22 AM   #11487
BuRPsa
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Yip, just parallel the wires to the rear one's.
That is Steve, if you know what 'paralleling' is? You got 2 wires on the rear switch. Take each wire, splice each, and run each spliced/secondary wire to the front switch, with the obvious result that when either switch is activated your brakelight will come on.
Wait, a picture paints.....
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:14 AM   #11488
BuRPsa
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Skibootdog,

pls post a few photos of that modded piston?
Also, how does it hold up - if it's mounted already that is?
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:38 AM   #11489
backdoc
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Location: the great state of texas
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crf

that is sure a nice CRF seebee.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:39 AM   #11490
KASUYAHO
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If you change the weight of the piston you should balance the assembly again.

Also tappered pins are stronger than the non tappered pins.
Tool steel pins are the best as in the strongest but i don't know how they go on an edurance engine.

I think the stock piston is cast so i wouldn't take too much weight out of it, as it might fail.

If your going a lighter piston which will let the engine rev quicker,
another option is to lighten the flywheel which will give you better results in regards to the engine
picking up revs quicker and keep the stock piston for endurance.

Also alot of guys do all this stuff and never change the ignition timing.
The only way to change the total ignition timing with this engine is at the fly wheel.

Anyone know the weight of the HRC piston ?
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