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Old 11-23-2011, 01:22 AM   #11491
BuRPsa
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Yip, just parallel the wires to the rear one's.
That is Steve, if you know what 'paralleling' is? You got 2 wires on the rear switch. Take each wire, splice each, and run each spliced/secondary wire to the front switch, with the obvious result that when either switch is activated your brakelight will come on.
Wait, a picture paints.....
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:14 AM   #11492
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Skibootdog,

pls post a few photos of that modded piston?
Also, how does it hold up - if it's mounted already that is?
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:38 AM   #11493
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crf

that is sure a nice CRF seebee.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:39 AM   #11494
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If you change the weight of the piston you should balance the assembly again.

Also tappered pins are stronger than the non tappered pins.
Tool steel pins are the best as in the strongest but i don't know how they go on an edurance engine.

I think the stock piston is cast so i wouldn't take too much weight out of it, as it might fail.

If your going a lighter piston which will let the engine rev quicker,
another option is to lighten the flywheel which will give you better results in regards to the engine
picking up revs quicker and keep the stock piston for endurance.

Also alot of guys do all this stuff and never change the ignition timing.
The only way to change the total ignition timing with this engine is at the fly wheel.

Anyone know the weight of the HRC piston ?
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:21 PM   #11495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
If you change the weight of the piston you should balance the assembly again.

Id say that the rotating weights are the same, but the reciprocating weights are different.
the piston assembly works aginst the counterbalance and if anything the counterbalance r can be reduced in weight if it were to vibrate more.

Also tappered pins are stronger than the non tappered pins.
Tool steel pins are the best as in the strongest but i don't know how they go on an edurance engine.

I think the stock piston is cast so i wouldn't take too much weight out of it, as it might fail.

If your going a lighter piston which will let the engine rev quicker,
another option is to lighten the flywheel which will give you better results in regards to the engine
picking up revs quicker and keep the stock piston for endurance.

yes and no
Reciprocating mass is wasted energy
Rotating mass is stored energy
if you reduce the wasted energy you get more rotating energy. Greater power.
Reducing flywheel weight is cool too.but you dont get the same gains in power


Also alot of guys do all this stuff and never change the ignition timing.
The only way to change the total ignition timing with this engine is at the fly wheel.

Good point on timing that's the next area for me is to increase timing.
I have yet hear my pig ping even with regular fuel???

Anyone know the weight of the HRC piston ?
?

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Old 11-23-2011, 02:51 PM   #11496
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"Also tapered pins are stronger than the non tapered pins"
Nonsense, they're only heavier than needed - and then a bit only.

"Reciprocating mass is wasted energy"
Not so. The acceleration-energy is produced/comes from the flywheel, but the decelleration-energy is stored in the flywheel, ergo the balance is just about zero, it just feel less 'responsive' as it will fluctuate rev's less willingly.

Right. Those were my 2c's for tonight




BuRPsa screwed with this post 11-24-2011 at 02:22 AM Reason: Changed letter-colour
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:49 PM   #11497
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Thanks

Hey all, Thanks for the reply to my wiring question. really helped, plan on completing task today.
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:04 PM   #11498
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clutch help?

Sorry if this is posted in the wrong place. I'm from Boston but am in San Ignacio Baja on an xr650r and the clutch won't work. When I pull the clutch lever the cable is pulling the lever going into the engine case and releasing the tension on the plates but the engine remains fully connected to the rear wheel, there is zero change, it's as if I haven't pulled the clutch in at all. I can ride the bike by coasting before dropping it into 1st (it just lurches and stalls if I shift into 1st when standing still even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in). Once I get the bike moving
I can shift fine through all the gears without using the clutch. I had just changed the oil and used some basic el cheapo 20-50 quaker state oil, I had only ridden the bike for about 10 minutes after the oil change when the bike broke,

I took the clutch plates out and they didn't seem stuck, there isn't any fragmentation or excessive wear.

And without the plates in the motor still engages the rear wheel. Shouldn't the motor be "disconnected" from the rear wheels without the clutch plates in? It shifts fine through all the gears and neutral works as normal.

I removed the clutch basket and I couldn't see any obvious problems so put it back together. Looks like I need to take it apart again.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:45 PM   #11499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hahv View Post
Sorry if this is posted in the wrong place. I'm from Boston but am in San Ignacio Baja on an xr650r and the clutch won't work. When I pull the clutch lever the cable is pulling the lever going into the engine case and releasing the tension on the plates but the engine remains fully connected to the rear wheel, there is zero change, it's as if I haven't pulled the clutch in at all. I can ride the bike by coasting before dropping it into 1st (it just lurches and stalls if I shift into 1st when standing still even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in). Once I get the bike moving
I can shift fine through all the gears without using the clutch. I had just changed the oil and used some basic el cheapo 20-50 quaker state oil, I had only ridden the bike for about 10 minutes after the oil change when the bike broke,

I took the clutch plates out and they didn't seem stuck, there isn't any fragmentation or excessive wear.

And without the plates in the motor still engages the rear wheel. Shouldn't the motor be "disconnected" from the rear wheels without the clutch plates in? It shifts fine through all the gears and neutral works as normal.

I removed the clutch basket and I couldn't see any obvious problems so put it back together. Looks like I need to take it apart again.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Bummer. That pretty much has to be the common non-upgraded 2000/2001 clutch bushing, as they have less lubrication passages than the upgraded later years, so over time depending on clutch use style, the bushing tends to sieze to the shaft. As I understand it, it's fairly expensive fix as you need to replace the shaft as well, as opposed to had you upgraded the bushing for $20 it would have never been an issue. Sorry man. At least you can ride it still, though it must be a real pain in the ass. Thanks though for reminding me, I bought the part but didn't install it yet.

I'm also in MA. Maybe give me a yell if you ever want to ride the white mountains or something. I was thinking of some sort of ride up there next year. Is your bike plated?
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:30 PM   #11500
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hahv View Post
Sorry if this is posted in the wrong place. I'm from Boston but am in San Ignacio Baja on an xr650r and the clutch won't work. When I pull the clutch lever the cable is pulling the lever going into the engine case and releasing the tension on the plates but the engine remains fully connected to the rear wheel, there is zero change, it's as if I haven't pulled the clutch in at all. I can ride the bike by coasting before dropping it into 1st (it just lurches and stalls if I shift into 1st when standing still even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in). Once I get the bike moving
I can shift fine through all the gears without using the clutch. I had just changed the oil and used some basic el cheapo 20-50 quaker state oil, I had only ridden the bike for about 10 minutes after the oil change when the bike broke,

I took the clutch plates out and they didn't seem stuck, there isn't any fragmentation or excessive wear.

And without the plates in the motor still engages the rear wheel. Shouldn't the motor be "disconnected" from the rear wheels without the clutch plates in? It shifts fine through all the gears and neutral works as normal.

I removed the clutch basket and I couldn't see any obvious problems so put it back together. Looks like I need to take it apart again.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
The bushing might be toast but you may get it to work for you with some elbow grease, a file and some sandpaper. Basically deburring everything, that being said, if you do get it freed up, just pull in the clutch when absolutely necessary as it will do it again. If the bushing is the culprit, you have nothing to loose as most of the parts will need replaced anyway.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:21 PM   #11501
XRx
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I guess I really did get a good deal on my bike.

Looking for a backup bike around 2 g's depending on specifics, but assuming well used but well maintained, non-plated to save money, and based on the non-riding season discount, whatever that might be(any thoughts?). Same reason I bought my Z28 convertible mid-winter, which I did get a great price. But anyway I paid 2700 for mine, well maintainted and clean, plated with fully functioning complete BD DSK w/ LED TL, blinkers f&r all brand new(50mi on BD odo). Everybody seems to want right near there for more worn with sketchy/incomplete DSK setups or even non-plated.

I guess I'll just need to be more patient, or maybe I just got a good deal.

EDIT: Oh snap, I see the perfect one, but it's a ten hour drive each way. http://altoona.craigslist.org/mcy/2700023770.html
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:06 AM   #11502
BuRPsa
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Well now XRx,

you'll have to find an acceptable vehical first!
That then is a bit of a longer drive to California first - did you budget that in?




I'd ask the guy to make a walkaround video first, run it too - and then make up your mind.
I've said it before, the prices you chaps pay remind me of peanuts....
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:26 AM   #11503
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hahv,

Shite occurs!
You've got it opened anyway, or had, so do again - if you can pluck the basket off the shaft consider yourself lucky, but you'll probably need a suitable puller to do that. I'd not go overboard: if it comes off fine, if you're going to need a sledgehammer then leave it.
If the bush stays on the shaft then look at the basket's bore - ok still? If not then file this as RF says, and I'd try to get some oilgroove in it so as to lube it. Mind, you need to replace it anyway.
If the bush stays in the basket then lucky you, file the bugger as per above. But especially the shaft is important - salvable still? No filing on it if it seems like it, just some sandpaper may do the trick. And, clean/wash ALL sandpaper-debris out before reassembling eh?
Nurse the clutch if it works again. If you can't pull it off then ride as-is, easy does it, and finish your Baja trip I'd say. Then, once home again do a proper job. If the shaft's farged you'll need to split the engine, sorry.


Now, you mention el cheapo Quaker State oil..... really??? Some 30 years ago this was the bling stuff (in Europe mind), with finely dispersed molybdenum disulphide in it, and not even remotely cheap!
Haven't seen this brand/stuff since though - has time changed all this so much that it now is 'el cheapo' ?
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:39 AM   #11504
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Thanks Ridefreak, I was able to get it loose and clean it up. I'm going to put it back in tomorrow and chance it (it would take a week plus to get a new one down here. I think I caused it with that 20/50 oil. Xrx that's a crazy photo of your bike. I keep this bike in Phx too bad it'd be fun to ride around with another xr up there!
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Old 11-25-2011, 06:13 AM   #11505
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyGuy View Post
?
Again if you change the weight of the piston and rod the engine should be balanced again.

re: a flywheel uses energy to keep that flywheel turning,
if the flywheel is lighter then less energy is needed to keep the flywheel turning.
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