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Old 01-15-2012, 03:34 PM   #12001
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrtrippin View Post
My theory on chain lube for off road bikes is not to use it on a O-ring chain, Most of it just collects dirt and increases the wear to the sprockets which in turn increases the wear on the chain. I run Ironman sprockets with a Regina chain. Working on running them on year three now, close to 3000mi and then chain has not stretched and the sprocket is still well within serviceable limits. The few here that run with me know I am not easy on the throttle, will attempt just about anything legal and do about a 70/30 split off road/ on road.

I can see using a light oil for rust preventative measures but as far as trying to always keep the chain exterior lubed, It just seems to make more of a mess than its worth. So heres to dry O-ring quality chains and sprokets.
Opposite experience here, we ride allot of sand, an o-ring is a must on the XRR if we want any kind of chain life in that situation. We're lucky to get a couple seasons out of regular chains. I'm at 6K on an RK EXW, about 95% dirt, very little stretch, I adjust it about every 2 rides. My chain maint consists of soaking it pretty well with a silicone based lubricant and removing all the dirt with a brush when I clean the bike. It's about ready for a new one though.
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:08 PM   #12002
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrtrippin View Post
My theory on chain lube for off road bikes is not to use it on a O-ring chain, Most of it just collects dirt and increases the wear to the sprockets which in turn increases the wear on the chain. I run Ironman sprockets with a Regina chain. Working on running them on year three now, close to 3000mi and then chain has not stretched and the sprocket is still well within serviceable limits. The few here that run with me know I am not easy on the throttle, will attempt just about anything legal and do about a 70/30 split off road/ on road.

I put 14,000 miles on my 610 with Ironman sprockets and the Regina Z-ring...dry, never put anything on the chain. The chain never lumped up and there was just a hint of hooking on the rear sprocket when I sold that bike.

The XRR puts down more power and the dry moly seems to make the sliders last longer. I put 10,000 miles on the Ironman sprockets and Regina Z-ring on my last XRR, started the dry moly after it ate thru the slider and just about got the swingarm.
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:10 PM   #12003
ktmnate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Geo, I was running a Primary Drive O-ring on the XR400, It only had about 10 rides on it and I noticed that the sideplates were split about every 3rd link going from the pin hole outward. Never seen that kind of chain failure before, the chain still looked new, the sprockets were replaced with the chain. We had just finished riding from Lockhart Basin to the Needles dist, 70 mi through the middle of BFE. Beware of those.
I too use the Maxxima chain wax. I ride about 6-8k a year on everything from Baja to the OBCDT. I got about 10k on the chain that came on the bike. Currently have about 5k on a Ragina and have only needed to adjust it once.
I also use it on my big orange nasty which also does Baja among other things. I usually get about 20k on the 950 chain. And blieve me, I don't think about my chain much. The 950 has gone over 1000 miles two-up in Baja mostly off road at speed. And on road at over 80-100mph for over 150 miles without issue. I will continue the same chain maintenance schedule as it seems to work just fine.


Nate


PS- this is just my opinion and YMMV
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:15 PM   #12004
jules083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I win, the guy bought one.


Here, cry yourself to sleep with this picture:





See you on the trail...or will I?


Yep, it's on order. If I find that I can't stop from blinding people I'll figure out an alternate plan from there. Maybe switch the big light and run some Autozone fog lights for street use.


On a side note, doing valves right now. I don't know when they were adjusted last, but I wish I'd done them when I first bought the bike. My smallest feeler gauge is .0015 and won't fit on the intake side. Haven't got to the exhaust yet. Should I just set everything correctly, or do I have a problem that needs taken care of? Bike runs good, I only put maybe 3 tanks of gas through it since buying it. Looks well maintained elsewhere, and the bolts showed signs of being off before. I hope it's not new valve time.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:02 PM   #12005
jules083
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I set the Intakes to .006, just now got to the exhaust. Same deal, they're tight. I'm suprised I didn't kill the head. Think I have a problem?
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:21 PM   #12006
slogger
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I'd set those valves to spec, then do 200-300 miles and check them again. If they've tighten back up with that few miles, you'll likely be do for a top end job.

If not, just keep an eye on them ever 600-1000 miles.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:30 PM   #12007
jules083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slogger View Post
I'd set those valves to spec, then do 200-300 miles and check them again. If they've tighten back up with that few miles, you'll likely be do for a top end job.

If not, just keep an eye on them ever 600-1000 miles.
Makes sense. Thanks. Hopefully I didn't do any damage running it like this. Guess I'll find out soon. These exhaust ones are fun to get to. I'm having a great time.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:46 PM   #12008
Garthe
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I win, the guy bought one.

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Old 01-15-2012, 08:24 PM   #12009
Ruprect
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speedo

Quote:
Originally Posted by marcusarelius View Post
2240:60 means that the speedometer cable coming from the front wheel revolves at 2240 rpm at 60mph. It's a standard for Japanese bikes.
Thanks for the info and the explanation - I wondered what 2240:60 meant ! good to know its common to Japanese bikes in case i find a good used speedo.

im having trouble finding a cheap aftermarket in kph. Any suggestions ?
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:39 PM   #12010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruprect View Post
Thanks for the info and the explanation - I wondered what 2240:60 meant ! good to know its common to Japanese bikes in case i find a good used speedo.

im having trouble finding a cheap aftermarket in kph. Any suggestions ?


Is a TrailTech Vapor or something similar out of the question? They are cheap at around $100. You can set them for MPH or KPH

Johnny55 screwed with this post 01-15-2012 at 10:46 PM
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:30 AM   #12011
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Geo, I was running a Primary Drive O-ring on the XR400, It only had about 10 rides on it and I noticed that the sideplates were split about every 3rd link going from the pin hole outward. Never seen that kind of chain failure before, the chain still looked new, the sprockets were replaced with the chain. We had just finished riding from Lockhart Basin to the Needles dist, 70 mi through the middle of BFE. Beware of those.
The riding info. I'll see where I end up and where the riding is.

I use, an have use for years the wax above. Good stuff because it does not fling, but I will try to find the alternative to try in Canada.

I've also had a primary drive chain on my Ktm 250 and the XRR without issue. It was one of their primium chains though.

As a nice alternative, EK chains makes their X-
ring chain for the same price (75$) and I have really enjoyed it on my trip. 13000km so far and it's looking very good. Adjusted it only twice with very minor corrections. Sprockets not wearing much at all because of this. (primary drive steel).
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:55 PM   #12012
onlead
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Stock Carb Needle Jet Holder Question

From what I understand the assembly looks like this:

Main Jet -> Baffle?-> Needle Jet Holder (w/ Nut) -> Needle Jet

My question is what is the nut on the needle jet holder for and to where should mine be adjusted?

Thanks, all.

BTW every freakin screw on my carb is frozen and made of butter. Had to easy out 5 of them.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:38 PM   #12013
AtomicXRer
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Rust w/o even riding it recently. Maybe I ought to ride .

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
XRx,

To those using chain-wax - rust will be your buddy, I find it doing nothing at all. Some non-fling grease from an aerosol however does all I want, and I've never seen rust when using it.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:40 PM   #12014
AtomicXRer
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I don't ride as hard or fast as you. Nonetheless, I have used the Primary Drive o-ring chains for the last 5-years w/o having any problems as you describe. Maybe your rear tire was put in a some small tilted angle for that particular ride?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Geo, I was running a Primary Drive O-ring on the XR400, It only had about 10 rides on it and I noticed that the sideplates were split about every 3rd link going from the pin hole outward. Never seen that kind of chain failure before, the chain still looked new, the sprockets were replaced with the chain. We had just finished riding from Lockhart Basin to the Needles dist, 70 mi through the middle of BFE. Beware of those.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:41 PM   #12015
AtomicXRer
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Ok. I think I am getting a consensus? Thanks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
BuRPsa i would agree on the non-fling grease... its what i use
O'ring chains are not good for wax .. and i think wax is a magnet for dirt
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