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Old 03-11-2012, 07:46 PM   #12511
thouk
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Lincoln, Ne my hometown, Where I'm freezin
Oddometer: 195
Any body know

Hey Ya'll,
I am putting the Big Ruckus headlight assembly, with dual hids, on my Piggie. I already have the deflector made and painted but I want to use an adjustable deflector with it also. Does anyone know what the material the stock headlight shroud is made of? Is it form-able with household heat and where can I get it. Thanks, Tony
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:37 PM   #12512
950TRANSALP
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Jackson , Wyoming
Oddometer: 794
Normal !

Quote:
Originally Posted by KYLEISCOOL View Post
I tore into my clutch to just inspect it while I did an oil change and noticed that the steel plate closest to the judder spring has been getting a groove in it from the judder spring (pictured below). The clutch has never been touched prior than now that i know of. Im the 2nd owner. anyone know of this issue? is it normal? my clutch works just fine. No chatter or any hangs ups on it. The clutch basket doesnt have any grooves from the plates. Visually looking at the friction plates and steel plates they look good (other than the plate mentioned), no glazing burn or warped marks.
Just installed a Rekluse EXP ( psyched here ! ) in mine and I had that grove too , did some research here and saw it is a normal occurance . With my Rekluse I just installed one w.o. the grove back there .

2001 with approx. 10,000 miles
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:38 PM   #12513
BajaDoug
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Hendersonville, TN
Oddometer: 465
Quote:
Originally Posted by NMZens View Post
Hello all, first post here and a quick synopsis of how I ended up on a BRP.



Too fast, too small, just at matter of time!



Soooo nice until that nice little old lady decided not to stop for me or the traffic.



Super fast one month build for my first ADV ride, this week in the Tennessee Smoky Mountains! 1500 miles, 3 Red Bulls, 24 hours, and we're in the holler!



Ride report in progress! Gotta go turn wrenches, we're heading out tomorrow from Ocoee lake and returning to Dale Hollow via the Smokys, (not really a direct route, but that's the point!)

Very nice BRP man. Where did you pick that up at? We ride E TN from Nashville about 3x's a year. We'll have to hook up.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:18 PM   #12514
PeteN95
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Muk, WA
Oddometer: 2,745
Did I see that bike on Easter Island?!?

Quote:
Originally Posted by aiMhi View Post
Got my fairing all bolted up this AM and the lights mounted. Just need to add the dashboard and I am all ready for the Kokopelli Rally ride to Moab
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:54 PM   #12515
Ironwood
Friday Harbor, WA
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Oddometer: 751
Compression relief question...

So I occasionally use the comp. release when going down steep and knarly trails. Does anyone know if this could cause excessive wear to any part of the valve train?

It just works so well it would be hard to give it up. Joe
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:04 PM   #12516
RideFreak
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Out in the NM Dez somewhere
Oddometer: 6,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
So I occasionally use the comp. release when going down steep and knarly trails. Does anyone know if this could cause excessive wear to any part of the valve train?

It just works so well it would be hard to give it up. Joe
It was never intended to be used while the motor is running. Will it hurt the bike? Not sure but I wouldn't use it that way, valvetrain parts get expensive real fast.
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"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but to rather skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ... Holy Shit, what a ride!"
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:07 PM   #12517
RideFreak
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Out in the NM Dez somewhere
Oddometer: 6,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by aiMhi View Post
Got my fairing all bolted up this AM and the lights mounted. Just need to add the dashboard and I am all ready for the Kokopelli Rally ride to Moab


Love my Honda




Looks nice!

That's going to be a great ride, wish I could swing it but I just got back from there. Working on the next hall pass now
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"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but to rather skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ... Holy Shit, what a ride!"
CL Adventure Ride 2013 /CL Revisited 2014 / 700 Miles of Scenic Utah Backcountry / MY VIDEOS / RIDEFREAK TV
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:16 PM   #12518
KYLEISCOOL
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: So. Cal. U.S.A
Oddometer: 144
Thanks950TRANSALP I was worried when I took my magnetic oil drain plug out and it had a couple shavings on it and now I know where they came from.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:59 PM   #12519
NMZens
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 80
4 hours on the new bike and first ride under my belt!!

Loaded up!



4 hours later found Hunt's Lodge to dry out and revel in a day well spent in the Smokys!

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Old 03-12-2012, 11:46 PM   #12520
Jungle Man
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Camas Washington
Oddometer: 492
Nice XR! Just got mine put back together.
On the clutch plate I noticed some wear but just switch places with another plate.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:59 AM   #12521
dohcfox
meh
 
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 143
Hard Starting XRR

Morning all...

So I've been commuting on my new to me XRR for the last month or so and have noticed some interesting starting issues. First off, the bike refuses to start with the choke in the on position, either at the first or second detent. It'll only start with the choke off, and requires me to apply throttle once the motor fires off in order to keep running. Once she's running, she runs like a champ and pulls with no flat spots or hiccups. The other thing is that the XRR requires many kicks to get running; maybe 10 to 20 when cold. The bike starts very easily when warm; one kick easily.

So far, the bike has been rejetted with the 'uncork' recommmended jet sizes, in addition to all of the other uncorking stuff.

Any ideas?

Thanks!!

JT
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:06 AM   #12522
GoinRidin
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Joined: Feb 2012
Oddometer: 49
If its properly jetted you won't need much if any choke (unless real cold outside temps compared to what its tuned for). Choke is to richen it up enough to start a leaner running bike. If yours runs fine once warm I would bet its probably on the slightly rich side and your idle may be set a little low if it takes some throttle to keep it running when cold.

make sure you aren't giving too much if any throttle while starting, should be jetted to not require throttle, (tip: squeeze the front brake as well and it will help you not to inadvertently give too much throttle)

Do you remember what jetting you are using? and mixture screw turns you are using?

The only adjustments I'd suggest is bump up your idle, then don't use throttle when starting and find out how many turns out your mixture screw is from full in (lightly seated). If the idle and no throttle doesn't help close the screw in 1/4 turn increments to see if that helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
Morning all...

So I've been commuting on my new to me XRR for the last month or so and have noticed some interesting starting issues. First off, the bike refuses to start with the choke in the on position, either at the first or second detent. It'll only start with the choke off, and requires me to apply throttle once the motor fires off in order to keep running. Once she's running, she runs like a champ and pulls with no flat spots or hiccups. The other thing is that the XRR requires many kicks to get running; maybe 10 to 20 when cold. The bike starts very easily when warm; one kick easily.

So far, the bike has been rejetted with the 'uncork' recommmended jet sizes, in addition to all of the other uncorking stuff.

Any ideas?

Thanks!!

JT
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:43 PM   #12523
Burgman
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: The Great North Wet
Oddometer: 1
A little about what you did ?

Hi All, I am in the middle of rebuilding my 04 XRR, and have been curious about the stock aluminum sub-frame .
The bash plate on the bike when I bought it was basically scrap metal ! but most of the rest was OK , so I was kinda expecting to see some stress cracks on the sub-frame, none anywhere! the top frame mount was ovaled a little on both sides, TPO had a billet rack mounted, one bolt was sheared. So to get to the question, I am planning on loading my bike with the same type bags and eqipment and tools, are you running the stock sub-frame or have you reinforced it ? The rest of the BRP riders here, what is the percentage that find the stock set up adaquate or working fine, to those that have found it neessary or prudent to replace with steel or re-inforce with more aluminum ?
The direction I am leaning now is,a steel suf-frame along with a bolt-on steel cargo rack that has lashing points and lighting mounts. I am looking at a l.e.d. strip type light w/ tail-stop-and turn all in one, that will mount up under the
cargo rack, and still alow the plate/ holder below it. If the rack is detachable it can be repaired or replaced seperate
from the sub-frame.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:25 PM   #12524
crypto666
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: The best trails in Nevada
Oddometer: 1,282
Check you valve gap (lash). I have heard that tight exhaust valve lash will make it hard starting too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
Morning all...

So I've been commuting on my new to me XRR for the last month or so and have noticed some interesting starting issues. First off, the bike refuses to start with the choke in the on position, either at the first or second detent. It'll only start with the choke off, and requires me to apply throttle once the motor fires off in order to keep running. Once she's running, she runs like a champ and pulls with no flat spots or hiccups. The other thing is that the XRR requires many kicks to get running; maybe 10 to 20 when cold. The bike starts very easily when warm; one kick easily.

So far, the bike has been rejetted with the 'uncork' recommmended jet sizes, in addition to all of the other uncorking stuff.

Any ideas?

Thanks!!

JT
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:47 PM   #12525
dohcfox
meh
 
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 143
Hey, thank for all of the advice! I'll certainly try what you've suggested. I am however always very careful not to open the throttle when kicking the bike over. I only apply throttle once the motor lights off, to keep it running.

Thank you!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoinRidin View Post
If its properly jetted you won't need much if any choke (unless real cold outside temps compared to what its tuned for). Choke is to richen it up enough to start a leaner running bike. If yours runs fine once warm I would bet its probably on the slightly rich side and your idle may be set a little low if it takes some throttle to keep it running when cold.

make sure you aren't giving too much if any throttle while starting, should be jetted to not require throttle, (tip: squeeze the front brake as well and it will help you not to inadvertently give too much throttle)

Do you remember what jetting you are using? and mixture screw turns you are using?

The only adjustments I'd suggest is bump up your idle, then don't use throttle when starting and find out how many turns out your mixture screw is from full in (lightly seated). If the idle and no throttle doesn't help close the screw in 1/4 turn increments to see if that helps.
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