XR650R Thread!

[Gunslinger1]

Originally Posted by Starkman

Tell us about that box mounted down on the skidplate.

Had a guy make this box out of aluminum...........trying to get some tool weight down low.

[Shibby!]

Originally Posted by Gunslinger1

Had a guy make this box out of aluminum...........trying to get some tool weight down low.

They work well, until you crush them on rocks in Baja. haha.

I had one on mine too. I had an issue with rusting tools and being packed with fine grit. Might build a redesigned one here eventually.

Nice looking bike! One of the nicest XRR's I think. Black wheels on XRR's make them look delicious.

I see you have the wolfman tank bag too. I couldn't get along with mine. I had the Expedition model and sold it to get the Giant Loop Wrap. Didn't get in my way while riding. I like to sit right up front close to the filler cap. Do you have the same issues?

[Gunslinger1]

Originally Posted by Shibby!

They work well, until you crush them on rocks in Baja. haha.

I had one on mine too. I had an issue with rusting tools and being packed with fine grit. Might build a redesigned one here eventually.

Nice looking bike! One of the nicest XRR's I think. Black wheels on XRR's make them look delicious.

I see you have the wolfman tank bag too. I couldn't get along with mine. I had the Expedition model and sold it to get the Giant Loop Wrap. Didn't get in my way while riding. I like to sit right up front close to the filler cap. Do you have the same issues?

Same issue with rusting tools, grit, and moisture. This thing was made tight and I thought it would resist the water but not so. I have this tank bag on a lot of bikes and did notice it at first. I don't stuff it full and it is working OK. I mostly use this bike for Long Haul Trips like the Western TAT.

[Agent2]

I'd like to build something like that, but out of PVC pipe, glued cap on one end, threaded cap on the other. Wondering how to attach it to the skidplate, guessing some sort of metal saddle brackets must be available.

[Shibby!]

Originally Posted by Agent2

I'd like to build something like that, but out of PVC pipe, glued cap on one end, threaded cap on the other. Wondering how to attach it to the skidplate, guessing some sort of metal saddle brackets must be available.

Lots of people do that. Might be considered somewhat KLRish, but there is no denying it works. You'll get the odd dirty look driving past the BMW's at starbucks.


Instead of a threaded end you can use a pressure testing cap.

[dohcfox]

Originally Posted by Shibby!

Lots of people do that. Might be considered somewhat KLRish, but there is no denying it works. You'll get the odd dirty look driving past the BMW's at starbucks.


Instead of a threaded end you can use a pressure testing cap.

A couple of strategically placed cuts in the skid plate will accept hose clamps large enough to secure a piece of pvc pipe. I run test plugs on mine; perfectly sealed every time.

[Hoologan]

Here's the fan bracket that I fabbed up this weekend.




I mounted it low enough to work with both my Clarke 4.3 and of course the Acerbis 6.3.



I'm hoping that I won't lose too much cooling effect by ditching the KTM shroud, but we'll just have to see.

I also installed an Eastern Beaver 3 circuit fuse holder and relay tied into the ignition switch, so now my GPS, heated grips and fan are only enabled when the key is on.

I stuffed the fuse holder and connectors in the gap between the airbox cover and rear fender and used proper open barrel connectors for reliability.

[windquest]

Originally Posted by Hoologan

Here's the fan bracket that I fabbed up this weekend.




I mounted it low enough to work with both my Clarke 4.3 and of course the Acerbis 6.3.



I'm hoping that I won't lose too much cooling effect by ditching the KTM shroud, but we'll just have to see.

I also installed an Eastern Beaver 3 circuit fuse holder and relay tied into the ignition switch, so now my GPS, heated grips and fan are only enabled when the key is on.

I stuffed the fuse holder and connectors in the gap between the airbox cover and rear fender and used proper open barrel connectors for reliability.

A very nice fan bracket.... very clean. BUT could you please tell me about your headers?? where did you get them from?

[Shibby!]

Originally Posted by windquest

A very nice fan bracket.... very clean. BUT could you please tell me about your headers?? where did you get them from?

I believe they are Big Gun. As far as I know, they are the only header to fit behind the down tube.

Very nice crimp jobs. I love Eastern Beaver for quality connectors, but I'm ashamed to say I do it half ass without the proper crimper. I back that up by soldiering every wire connection though.

[Hoologan]

Originally Posted by windquest

A very nice fan bracket.... very clean. BUT could you please tell me about your headers?? where did you get them from?

Originally Posted by Shibby!

I believe they are Big Gun. As far as I know, they are the only header to fit behind the down tube.

Very nice crimp jobs. I love Eastern Beaver for quality connectors, but I'm ashamed to say I do it half ass without the proper crimper. I back that up by soldiering every wire connection though.

It is a Big Gun full exhaust. It was on the bike when I got it.

Thanks Shibby! It's my first time using these, but I got the right crimper so it wasn't too hard.

[BuRPsa]

Hoologan,

"I'm hoping that I won't lose too much cooling effect by ditching the KTM shroud, but we'll just have to see"

No you won't, in fact the cooling effect remains same (ignoring fractionally higher friction of the now higher-speed air passing through the radiator, but this is only meant for those a bit nerd-inclined )
That shroud, when the fan is off, blocks/restricts the air passing thought the radiator, hence the cooling of the rad is less ergo the fan will come on more often.
When it comes on though it pulls air through a larger area (the entire shroud's), so it stands to reason that the fan will run a bit shorter (compared to no shroud).
Without shroud more air will flow through the rad (when fan = off) hence it will cool better, so the fan will come on less often.
And, when it is On, because it will cool a smaller radiator-area it will run a bit longer than before.
A "bit" yeah, because the airspeed is a lot more since it is a smaller area now, so it will cool that smaller area a lot better than when it has to serve a larger area (the whole shroud).

End of Leson Wan Zermodinamiks

[Cpt. Ron]

Originally Posted by Shibby!

Very nice crimp jobs. I love Eastern Beaver for quality connectors, but I'm ashamed to say I do it half ass without the proper crimper. I back that up by soldiering every wire connection though.

Solder joints are prime places to have the wire fracture since it is very rigid while the stranded wire is not. Fractures will occur right at the joint if they aren't restrained properly. And soldered wire connectors, since they get disassembled often, are more likely to break compared to crimped connectors.

[PeteN95]

Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron

Solder joints are prime places to have the wire fracture since it is very rigid while the stranded wire is not. Fractures will occur right at the joint if they aren't restrained properly. And soldered wire connectors, since they get disassembled often, are more likely to break compared to crimped connectors.

But if you solder the end of the wire below the crimped connector, that is the best!

[Shibby!]

Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron

Solder joints are prime places to have the wire fracture since it is very rigid while the stranded wire is not. Fractures will occur right at the joint if they aren't restrained properly. And soldered wire connectors, since they get disassembled often, are more likely to break compared to crimped connectors.

This may be so, but I still believe if the proper crimpers aren't use soldiering can only help.

25,000 problem free km's and counting..

[Hoologan]

Originally Posted by BuRPsa

Hoologan,

"I'm hoping that I won't lose too much cooling effect by ditching the KTM shroud, but we'll just have to see"

No you won't, in fact the cooling effect remains same (ignoring fractionally higher friction of the now higher-speed air passing through the radiator, but this is only meant for those a bit nerd-inclined )
That shroud, when the fan is off, blocks/restricts the air passing thought the radiator, hence the cooling of the rad is less ergo the fan will come on more often.
When it comes on though it pulls air through a larger area (the entire shroud's), so it stands to reason that the fan will run a bit shorter (compared to no shroud).
Without shroud more air will flow through the rad (when fan = off) hence it will cool better, so the fan will come on less often.
And, when it is On, because it will cool a smaller radiator-area it will run a bit longer than before.
A "bit" yeah, because the airspeed is a lot more since it is a smaller area now, so it will cool that smaller area a lot better than when it has to serve a larger area (the whole shroud).

End of Leson Wan Zermodinamiks

The shroud has a rubber "backdraft damper" in it to minimize restriction when the fan is off and the bike is moving.

Yes, I will lose effectiveness of the fan without the shroud. The shroud increases the surface area which decreases the velocity, increasing the DeltaT. Q=CFM x cp x DeltaT Higher velocity DECREASES the DeltaT and the total heat transferred.

Will it be enough to negate the effort of installing the fan, though? Probably not.