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Old 05-25-2012, 05:55 AM   #13351
jwdub
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: SW Washington
Oddometer: 766
P3rcr,

I'm assuming that you're referring to the lower tank mounts with the brackets that slip behind the upper bolt on the bottom engine mount. I just started installing my tank on an 03 yesterday. Many hours of frustration. I can take a picture of my brackets, which are attached to the engine mount bolt, but not attached to the lower tank bushings as yet. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send a pic.

I would suggest that you contact Hodakaguy (do a search in this thread) hopefully, he's in the process of making up some more of his HD lower mount which should do a much better job of protecting the radiators. I intend to replace the Acerbis mount ASAP!
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:23 AM   #13352
Ironwood
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I run Hodakaguy's Tanker Brace and it is the only way to go.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:46 AM   #13353
BMKTW2
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:00 AM   #13354
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
I run Hodakaguy's Tanker Brace and it is the only way to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertriding View Post
Alright, so here is a comparison of the steel subframe (with removable pannier attachments) from RTE vs the stock aluminum subframe, if anyone is interested.
My first impression of the steel subframe is how strong (and heavy) it feels and looks. When I pulled the stock one off, it felt like it only weighed 1 pound in comparison.

I've done many of K on that subframe, and no issues.

I believe I weighed my stock subframe at just under 3 lbs, and this one at 13lbs. It adds 10lbs of high up weight, and you do feel it riding. That being said, I've put 16,000km with 75lbs on the back. No issues, not even a loose bolt.

(I think he should pay me for how I plug his product... haha)

Quote:
Originally Posted by P3rcr View Post
Hi Everyone:)
I've got a question for the masses for the Acerbis 25 liter tank. I got an 03 XRR used with this tank and the previous owner didn't mount the brackets correctly and now I've got to install rads on each side from the brackets, and lost 1 side of the brackets) and piercing a hole in the rads( both sides:(
Anyone have any pictures of ther tank mounts? Have they modified them or make your own? As it seems the brackets are Way too close to the rads for my liking.
Stock or modified mounts?
Any hints or suggestions would be appreciated.
Anyone upgrade there rads and have spare rads for some positive karma ?
Tks PB
I use the tanker brace as well. Good peice of kit, however I still had a bitch mounting it up, but now that it's seen 1000's of K things seem to line up better and it slips on pretty much hassle free now.

The brace is worth it. I dropped my bike a few times (at low speeds) with the above mentioned 75lbs of gear and full gas and it did protect my rads, etc.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:26 PM   #13355
BuRPsa
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Bamf,

clearly you love this bike. Here's an idea, chuck it if you don't like it. Presuming you're in the US prepare yourself to undertake a strip coming winter, by ordering the gaskets you'll need as a minimum. Yours has seen some work during the years, and |I'd take the jug off to inspect as a minimum. C/S-shaft still fine? If not get a new one too, and, if you're going to open the cases I would renew every bearing in sight, but that's up to you. Go over every part accessible when opened up, and have it fixed is not to spec. Yeah, that will cost some, but you'll end up with a) piece of mind, and b) a good-as-new engine, ready for years to come.
'Wall' climbing? No wonder you see oil in the airbox, the vent's at the back of the cases. The scavenging pump's at the front somewhere, so obviously it can't cope when vertical. Same when wheelying for prolonged periods. What happens then is more oil will stay/be in the cases, and the frame/tank's level goes down obviously. All will return to normal when level again, but the vent probably will loose some oil into the airbox thus engine when upright. No biggie really
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:14 PM   #13356
BMKTW2
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Thumb

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Old 05-25-2012, 02:31 PM   #13357
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that was the last one.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:25 PM   #13358
krazykiwi
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Rebuilt XR650R - how best to run it in?

I've just rebuilt my engine (long story) putting in new camshaft, exhaust and intake lifters and rings. What is the best way to run it in? Some say ride it gentle, some say hard! What's the accepted best method?
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:36 PM   #13359
XRx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krazykiwi View Post
I've just rebuilt my engine (long story) putting in new camshaft, exhaust and intake lifters and rings. What is the best way to run it in? Some say ride it gentle, some say hard! What's the accepted best method?
Internet advice is very usefuly usually, and sometimes wrong, so if it's info that's in the manual, do what the manual says. And this I believe would be in both the owner's manual and the service manual.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:01 PM   #13360
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Bamf,

clearly you love this bike. Here's an idea, chuck it if you don't like it. Presuming you're in the US prepare yourself to undertake a strip coming winter, by ordering the gaskets you'll need as a minimum. Yours has seen some work during the years, and |I'd take the jug off to inspect as a minimum. C/S-shaft still fine? If not get a new one too, and, if you're going to open the cases I would renew every bearing in sight, but that's up to you. Go over every part accessible when opened up, and have it fixed is not to spec. Yeah, that will cost some, but you'll end up with a) piece of mind, and b) a good-as-new engine, ready for years to come.
'Wall' climbing? No wonder you see oil in the airbox, the vent's at the back of the cases. The scavenging pump's at the front somewhere, so obviously it can't cope when vertical. Same when wheelying for prolonged periods. What happens then is more oil will stay/be in the cases, and the frame/tank's level goes down obviously. All will return to normal when level again, but the vent probably will loose some oil into the airbox thus engine when upright. No biggie really
Good idea ordering the gaskets sooner rather than later. CS is perfect. I forgot to grease the new CS sprocket when I put it on, so I took it off a few weeks ago and the splines were as good as new, no lie! I was really happy to see that. Like I've mentioned before, I want to do the cam chain for sure. Even if it's good they're relatively cheap and will add more years vs the existing one. Peace of mind.

So I guess that's where the oil came from! Well that's good to know. Phew.

Thanks for your help, appreciate the responses. Cheers!

PS what colors are the OEM gaskets if they had just one? I can see on mine poking out kind of. The top one is black, and the bottom one is green, if I recall correctly.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:24 PM   #13361
jimmyx
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Thumb Hey P3rcr, Here is a bit of info.

This brace worked great man......

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyx View Post
I wrecked hard this weekend on the right side of my xr!(hyper extended both knees) Had I not invested in the Hodakaguy brace I would have surely crushed my right radiator ,It,s also a good idea to replace your right footpeg bolts, I did not, and slamed my footpeg so hard it jammed my kick start lever( I had to hammer it back down with a rock see pics) You can see from the photo's that the brace did bend in a couple of places but held up well. Thanks again to Hodakaguy, Great product!!!!

Jimmy
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:54 PM   #13362
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
I forgot to grease the new CS sprocket when I put it on, .

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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 05-25-2012, 11:01 PM   #13363
DocAxeYarYar
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XRR build

With trusty swing arm tools in hand, I attacked removing the rear swingarm to clean and grease all the pivots. *Over the last few weeks, I sprayed several applications of Liquid Wrench on the swingarm pivot points, which I think was critical to getting it out. *I needed to use a brass drift to get the pivot bolt to start to come out, then after about half way it was no problem. *I am glad I got some oversize metric sockets, including a 27mm that fit on the pivot nut. *The special tools worked a treat no problem with the special preload castle nuts on the opposite side. I also managed to remove the sidestand, which has three round head allens securing it to the frame.

Here is the pivot bolt, fairly corroeded, but covered in Liquid Wrench when I took it out. *



Here is the swingarm showing the needle bearings on one side. So, once a year at least I will need to drop the swingarm and keep all the bearings greased up. I am sure it does not take much wear to introduce a fair amount of slop in the rear suspension. *All suspension linkages are now cleaned and greased with Bel Ray waterproof grease. With regular cleanings, the swingarm should be fairly easy to remove from now on.

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Old 05-25-2012, 11:24 PM   #13364
bamfslap
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Something wrong? If I recall correctly, it doesn't say to in the manual, but I was told it was a good idea to...more bad advice?
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:52 PM   #13365
Desertriding
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
Love those subframes

If your buying this frame weight aint an issue ,,,,,you would get this frame to add more weight so why bother with what the sub weighs


tho personally i hove done 4 day trips on my bike carrying everything i need ...subframe held up fine

Suspension and the way the load is carried is the key to getting these bikes to carry well

keep bags low and forward ...works for me
Good to know! I'm still waiting on the 6.3 Acerbis tank too. I have the frame partially installed atm (need to get some extra hardware) but already hooked up the RTE panniers and I think this set up is going to work out just fine.
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