ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-30-2012, 04:15 PM   #13756
XRx
Broken Filter
 
XRx's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Bruins Territory
Oddometer: 505
Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
+1

Been doing it that way since I realized what a PITA the factory procedure is
As usual, you two are full of great advice.
__________________
"Get the hell out of my way." - John Galt
'78 KE100 - '09 K1300S - '09 CRF450X Tagged- '00 XR650R Tagged - '80s XR600/XL600 Project - Giant Trance X3 - PC: SSD-4.2ghzOC - Old mildly stinky hockey gear
XRx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2012, 08:41 PM   #13757
Erndog
dirt relocation service
 
Erndog's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Moses Lake, WA
Oddometer: 101
Wicked Completely Useless info



Was goofing around a bit today, thought I'd share....
__________________
Red Neck First Aid Kit-
Superglue and Duct tape are great, if you need to step it up to the baling wire it's time to seek professional healthcare assistance....
Erndog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2012, 08:44 PM   #13758
DocAxeYarYar
RideDualSport.com
 
DocAxeYarYar's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 755
Gasket blow out (wallet)

Funny, or not, but learning that it costs $$ just to take parts off, and put them right back on! My XRR is a 2000 model so its already a 12 year old bike! Took off cover off: stator, clutch, oil filter, water pump, ect... for powder coating. Well, all new o-ring gaskets there! Factor in other misc items: exhaust manifold gaskets, few nuts/bolts, air box clamp, clutch lock ring, and others. Ends up at $90 in gaskets, and bits/pieces. Sure I could re-use some o-rings, but why chance it when I have the bike apart now and can replace. I learned same lesson restoring 1984 900 Ninja, hardware and misc bits/parts ate my lunch! Oh well...........
__________________
My XR650R Build:
http://ridedualsport.com/forum/index.php?topic=2748.0
DocAxeYarYar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2012, 09:56 PM   #13759
digga1111
bann ed
 
digga1111's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: wynnum
Oddometer: 3,306
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
Funny, or not, but learning that it costs $$ just to take parts off, and put them right back on! My XRR is a 2000 model so its already a 12 year old bike! Took off cover off: stator, clutch, oil filter, water pump, ect... for powder coating. Well, all new o-ring gaskets there! Factor in other misc items: exhaust manifold gaskets, few nuts/bolts, air box clamp, clutch lock ring, and others. Ends up at $90 in gaskets, and bits/pieces. Sure I could re-use some o-rings, but why chance it when I have the bike apart now and can replace. I learned same lesson restoring 1984 900 Ninja, hardware and misc bits/parts ate my lunch! Oh well...........
you could always go with the revolutionary design(pat pending) a couple of us are working on here in aus. i call it the oil rotation system. just leave an oil leak here and there so as to allow ..space... in the oil reservoir to regularly top up with new oil, thus allowing longer oil change intervals
__________________
----------------------------------------------
iam just not ready to be an adult
[QUOTE=troy safari carpente;24254589]
... the XR is the greatest off road motorcycle ever constructed. There's nothing it can't do, hasn't won or will not outperform.
digga1111 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2012, 12:56 PM   #13760
saberstud
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Oddometer: 113
F/S: Metzeler Enduro 3 Sahara Tires

Just in case anyone is looking for a set of fresh tires:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1#post19033841
saberstud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 05:56 AM   #13761
babuja
Gnarly Adventurer
 
babuja's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Luanda, Angola
Oddometer: 291
Valve adjust infos

Hi guys,

need some help about valve ajustment. I've never adjusted any valve but I feel the need to do it as I live in angola and canīt find any relieable mechanics and ear some tick tick that I assume is valve need for adjustment.

This a new bike from 2007 and has about 2000km.

Where can I find proper info about this job, like valve adjustment for noobies?

Tnks guys
__________________
Cheers guys
Babuja
________
KTM 950 ADV
www.babuja.smugmug.com
http://www.nomadstrail.net/site/

babuja screwed with this post 07-03-2012 at 01:28 AM
babuja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 08:02 AM   #13762
Agent2
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Firestorm Alley, California
Oddometer: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
Hi guys,

need some help about valve ajustment. I've never adjusted any valve but I feel the need to do it as live in angola, canīt find any mechanics and ear some tick tick that I asume is valve need for adjustment.

This a new bike from 2007 and has about 2000km.

Where can I find proper info about this job, like valve adjustment for noobies?

Tnks guys
This site - http://www.xr650r.us/ is a must read for pig owners. Go to Tech Tidbits and the valve adjust is there. One thing, I don't remove the side cover, just the inspection plug, and center the "T" in there.
Agent2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 10:26 AM   #13763
Shibby!
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Currently - Canada
Oddometer: 1,646
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent2 View Post
and center the "T" in there.

Easier said then done! =)

My plug won't even come out anymore. I'm afraid of stripping it.

Just get it to the right part in the stroke when both valves are fully closed and you can check from there. First few times I'd line up the T though for sure. It's a fine line to get it to that sweet spot though.
__________________
Tour of Idaho T1 Challenge - https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php...551f1642711d75
Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

Shibby! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 11:33 AM   #13764
babuja
Gnarly Adventurer
 
babuja's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Luanda, Angola
Oddometer: 291
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent2 View Post
This site - http://www.xr650r.us/ is a must read for pig owners. Go to Tech Tidbits and the valve adjust is there. One thing, I don't remove the side cover, just the inspection plug, and center the "T" in there.
Could never open this site: http://www.xr650r.us/


always get this mesage:

Forbidden

You don't have permission to access / on this server.

Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

Apache Server at www.xr650r.us Port 80
__________________
Cheers guys
Babuja
________
KTM 950 ADV
www.babuja.smugmug.com
http://www.nomadstrail.net/site/
babuja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 11:40 AM   #13765
BuRPsa
Finally growing up..
 
BuRPsa's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
"Valve adjustment for noobies"

'Ere ya are mate, and note this is a com-ple-te-ly different procedure than Honda prints in their manual - however a lot more easy:

Make sure the engine is cold.
Take off tank, and wash the engine's top & framebits as the bare minimum.
Take off the valve covers first, then take out plug (so the small bolts cannot fall into the cylinder - duh).
Put bike on a stand (jack, not sidestand), and put it in 5th gear.
Rotate the rear wheel forward - on this, do not EVER rotate it backwards or allow it to turn back (block it with a piece of wood through the spokes or whatever) as even a little of this will mess with the auto-decomp system on this bike which will lift an exhaust valve!! So no 'back', nothing!
Turn rearwheel fwd until you've convinced yourself that first the intakes go down, then up, and next the exhaust valves do ditto (hey, you said 'noobies' )
Turn even more forward, but maybe slower this time, until you actually notice that at a certain point, just when the intakes come up again, the exhaust valves ALSO start to move - which is correct, any 4stroke does this, not to worry.
Now rotate the wheel slow, very slow, until the exhaust valves are just about at their deepest point... then stop rotating, and block the wheel if necessary.
Now adjust the intake valves as per below.
To adjust the exhaust valves you turn (again, always forward only) the wheel until the intake valves are somewhere at their deepest point. As a sidenote, the exhaust valves are more difficult to reach on this bike, less handspace available.

Adjusting valves.
Valveplay is to be: Intake: 0.15mm (0.006"), Exhaust 0.20mm (0.008").
The valves to adjust will have some play, they are loose, which can be felt, so check this, move the rocker up & down - see? If no play make sure (by rotating rear wheel forward, see above) that the other valves are quite a bit down if not fully down. If this is the case but you still feel no play then know you did postpone adjusting for too long, the play's gone... which is a bad thing.
However, there normally is a bit of play.
Take the correct-thickness feeler gauge and make sure it is spotlessly clean - then try to slide it inbetween rocker & valve. They slide-in best sideways, but find your own best way.
If it goes in - just - and feels not too tight but also not too loose (this is experience which noobies do not have, sorry, however they can learn this by doing all this often) then that valve is set perfect.
If either too loose or when the feeler gauge won't go in, undo the locking-nut with a ringspanner (10mm, spotlessly clean - and only morons use open ended spanners) whilst holding the actual adjuster with a well-fitting screwdriver (which also is spotlessly clean). The idea is to loose the nut whilst the adjuster stays where it is. Once loose wind the nut a half turn up (more loose).
Now turn the adjuster with the screwdriver-only (yes, the nut will also turn) until the feeler gauge just goes in & and can be slid to & fro - just, tot too loose, not too tight.
Now hold the adjuster into position with the screwdriver whilst you turn the nut tight - of course by sliding the screwdriver through the ringspanner. Watchitnow, this only sounds easy, but in practise the adjuster wants to turn with the nut when tightening it - and it may not turn!
Try, fiddle & try again, but get the nut locked whilst the feeler gauge still just slides inbetween the adjuster & rocker. If this is the case then the valve is set correctly... so proceed with the other one(s).
How much torque for those nuts? Never mind the manual, they must be tight whilst not over-tightened (refer remark above regarding experience), but basic gutfeel will get you there. MIND though, it is less than the force you needed to loosen them in the first place! There is oil now inbetween you see, so this lubes the lot now. Apply a bit less for tightening than for taking them loose.

If this all reads daunting then relax, there's a way to check yourself.
Say you 'think' you set the In's to 0.15 - because this size feeler goes in.
Good - does the 0.20 also go in?
It should not, so if it does re-adjust that valve, but a notch tighter this time.
Got a 0.18 feeler in the set? This one should not go in either, however with enough force one can do anything... or cut your fingers


Once you get handier with this, here's an idea. Next time, before you loosen the nuts, you first measure what the actual play is! You may want to write this down for later, may come in handy. Valves 'move' you see, they normally become tighter over time (due to wear), and at a certain point in life this goes quick to fast even... and this point you want to notice, before it get really expensive. This is the time where you take the top off, however, with your new bike this is a loooong way to go still.

Have fun doing this. If you really will be doing this for the first time I'd advise to, after having adjusted all, rotate the wheel again a bit, and then check your own settings. If done correct it all will be fine, but this will give you piece of mind. Also check all nuts before you close her up - and if you turn one then you must re-adjust that valve again.
BuRPsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 11:46 AM   #13766
Agent2
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Firestorm Alley, California
Oddometer: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Easier said then done! =)

My plug won't even come out anymore. I'm afraid of stripping it.

Just get it to the right part in the stroke when both valves are fully closed and you can check from there. First few times I'd line up the T though for sure. It's a fine line to get it to that sweet spot though.
Brings up a discussion I had over beers and a bonfire, rider said he didn't look for "the sweet spot" of TDC on the compression stroke. if the intake rockers are compressed, he adjusted the exhausts, when the exhaust rockers started to open, he adjusted the intakes. I still look for the sweet spot, but any debating his method of adjusting valves?
Agent2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 12:01 PM   #13767
babuja
Gnarly Adventurer
 
babuja's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Luanda, Angola
Oddometer: 291
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
"Valve adjustment for noobies"

'Ere ya are mate, and note this is a com-ple-te-ly different procedure than Honda prints in their manual - however a lot more easy:

Make sure the engine is cold.
Take off tank, and wash the engine's top & framebits as the bare minimum.
Take off the valve covers first, then take out plug (so the small bolts cannot fall into the cylinder - duh).
Put bike on a stand (jack, not sidestand), and put it in 5th gear.
Rotate the rear wheel forward - on this, do not EVER rotate it backwards or allow it to turn back (block it with a piece of wood through the spokes or whatever) as even a little of this will mess with the auto-decomp system on this bike which will lift an exhaust valve!! So no 'back', nothing!
Turn rearwheel fwd until you've convinced yourself that first the intakes go down, then up, and next the exhaust valves do ditto (hey, you said 'noobies' )
Turn even more forward, but maybe slower this time, until you actually notice that at a certain point, just when the intakes come up again, the exhaust valves ALSO start to move - which is correct, any 4stroke does this, not to worry.
Now rotate the wheel slow, very slow, until the exhaust valves are just about at their deepest point... then stop rotating, and block the wheel if necessary.
Now adjust the intake valves as per below.
To adjust the exhaust valves you turn (again, always forward only) the wheel until the intake valves are somewhere at their deepest point. As a sidenote, the exhaust valves are more difficult to reach on this bike, less handspace available.

Adjusting valves.
Valveplay is to be: Intake: 0.15mm (0.006"), Exhaust 0.20mm (0.008").
The valves to adjust will have some play, they are loose, which can be felt, so check this, move the rocker up & down - see? If no play make sure (by rotating rear wheel forward, see above) that the other valves are quite a bit down if not fully down. If this is the case but you still feel no play then know you did postpone adjusting for too long, the play's gone... which is a bad thing.
However, there normally is a bit of play.
Take the correct-thickness feeler gauge and make sure it is spotlessly clean - then try to slide it inbetween rocker & valve. They slide-in best sideways, but find your own best way.
If it goes in - just - and feels not too tight but also not too loose (this is experience which noobies do not have, sorry, however they can learn this by doing all this often) then that valve is set perfect.
If either too loose or when the feeler gauge won't go in, undo the locking-nut with a ringspanner (10mm, spotlessly clean - and only morons use open ended spanners) whilst holding the actual adjuster with a well-fitting screwdriver (which also is spotlessly clean). The idea is to loose the nut whilst the adjuster stays where it is. Once loose wind the nut a half turn up (more loose).
Now turn the adjuster with the screwdriver-only (yes, the nut will also turn) until the feeler gauge just goes in & and can be slid to & fro - just, tot too loose, not too tight.
Now hold the adjuster into position with the screwdriver whilst you turn the nut tight - of course by sliding the screwdriver through the ringspanner. Watchitnow, this only sounds easy, but in practise the adjuster wants to turn with the nut when tightening it - and it may not turn!
Try, fiddle & try again, but get the nut locked whilst the feeler gauge still just slides inbetween the adjuster & rocker. If this is the case then the valve is set correctly... so proceed with the other one(s).
How much torque for those nuts? Never mind the manual, they must be tight whilst not over-tightened (refer remark above regarding experience), but basic gutfeel will get you there. MIND though, it is less than the force you needed to loosen them in the first place! There is oil now inbetween you see, so this lubes the lot now. Apply a bit less for tightening than for taking them loose.

If this all reads daunting then relax, there's a way to check yourself.
Say you 'think' you set the In's to 0.15 - because this size feeler goes in.
Good - does the 0.20 also go in?
It should not, so if it does re-adjust that valve, but a notch tighter this time.
Got a 0.18 feeler in the set? This one should not go in either, however with enough force one can do anything... or cut your fingers


Once you get handier with this, here's an idea. Next time, before you loosen the nuts, you first measure what the actual play is! You may want to write this down for later, may come in handy. Valves 'move' you see, they normally become tighter over time (due to wear), and at a certain point in life this goes quick to fast even... and this point you want to notice, before it get really expensive. This is the time where you take the top off, however, with your new bike this is a loooong way to go still.

Have fun doing this. If you really will be doing this for the first time I'd advise to, after having adjusted all, rotate the wheel again a bit, and then check your own settings. If done correct it all will be fine, but this will give you piece of mind. Also check all nuts before you close her up - and if you turn one then you must re-adjust that valve again.
Tnks for all the infos...I'll get the tools and print copy of this "how to"
__________________
Cheers guys
Babuja
________
KTM 950 ADV
www.babuja.smugmug.com
http://www.nomadstrail.net/site/

babuja screwed with this post 07-02-2012 at 01:09 PM
babuja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 12:15 PM   #13768
BuRPsa
Finally growing up..
 
BuRPsa's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Agent,

zero debate required, this works, no, better, this is correct to do this.
It is the result of cams having their groundcircles plus the fact that 'somewhere deepest' is more than 90 crank-degrees apart. To be honest I do this with 4 cylinder engines too, I just feel which valves are open, then adjust their opposites - which you check first by feeling their play. Failsafe & quick.
The problem comes with engines which need their valves set 'hot'...... that feeling you see


Re-reading your " when the exhaust rockers started to open, he adjusted the intakes. " ..... that is WRONG!
It also is not what I said: I said 'deep' or deepest point', which is quite a bit different than 'starting to open'.
BuRPsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 12:22 PM   #13769
Agent2
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Firestorm Alley, California
Oddometer: 128
Guess we were writing at the same time, I should have waited 10 minutes to read your post, answers that question.
On the feeler gauges, I have a dedicated set for the pig which I bent into the correct shapes to get into the hard spots, as said especially the exhausts.
Agent2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 12:35 PM   #13770
BuRPsa
Finally growing up..
 
BuRPsa's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Awwwww, come on now, spoilsport, you give all the tricks away for the Angolian!!!!


He's right Babuja, that's what you should do to make life easy. Bend them so you can reach them, and remember to oil them before you store them away.
BuRPsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014