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Old 08-10-2012, 10:19 AM   #14011
tannerc
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:21 AM   #14012
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I run 15/43 on my XRR. It's Johnny Campbell's 2003 BITD bike so it's pretty well built. Will pull to nearly 120mph with that gearing.
I have been running a 15/47, and I run a lot of the BITD Silver State 300 course which is pretty wide open since its a truck race. WIth a 102mm 11:1 piston, bigger valves, and all that it seems to be a great all around ratio. Max speed around 90, pretty mellow at 75. Still works well on single track.

If there is no single track or slow stuff in the plan, I like the taller ratio better for sure.
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:16 AM   #14013
aaronp1264
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all ride, just ordered a 15/47 combo and o ring chain from ironman sprockets. i didn't want to go too tall because i still want to get all up in some single track this fall.

anything i need to know beforehand about throwing these on the piggy? can't remember the last time i put a chain on a bike... last time i put sprockets on was 3 years ago on my 93 xr200, once the job was complete i realized my top end was shot.
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:22 AM   #14014
BuRPsa
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Aaron,

few pointers.
First off, use new bolts for the sprocket, always. If I remember correct the Ironman comes with these, and some threadlocker/locktite won't go amiss. Then, the boss on the c/s faces the outside, and mounting it the other way round will cause a misalignment hence heavy wear everywhere.
This is the time to take out & clean the chain-adjuster bolts & nuts, and renew if needed. Also, use an overdose of anti-seize/coppaslip when mounting them, as they have a habit of seizing properly.
Also, you've got the wheel out, clean there where you can now. Wheelbearings? Clean them, seals too (new one's are cheap), and waterresistant grease is best. A thin smear of coppaslip on the axle aint a bad idea.
Check your brakepads, clean the caliper, and I use coppaslip when I reassemble these things, also on the pad's sliding surfaces (there where they ride in the caliper!). Know that sintered pads last, and normal one's will wear to 'gone' in just hours of wet sandy riverbed - ask me, I know, will never make that mistake again.
Check the rollers and sliders for wear, especially the one on the swingarm at the bottom - all fine? Renew when not, and clean & lube the rollers bearing pins.
On the swingarm, all bearings fine, no play, all lubed, you're sure? Yeah, lots of work, but now's the time to rip it out and make sure all's good.
Then the chain. No clip-type master link but only a riveted one, this bike has WAAYY too much power for such, and you need the tools for this - got? Ditto for breaking the chain to the correct length, and, unless you want to be able to use it for varying ratios/sprockets, keep it as short as possible ie the wheel most-forward in the swinger. This reduces the wheelbase hence the steering, some here have remarked on this to be noticeable. Regarding the chain breaking & riveting tool I can recommend DID's tool, as superb as their chains. If you have to buy one get a spare pin then also, as this thing may chip/break on you if you're doing things slightly misaligned - and yes, I did once, hence me having the spare now
If you do all this then you're sure to have a reliable setup which will last a good while. Keeping it clean and greased when possible should give you a very long service life.

BuRPsa screwed with this post 08-11-2012 at 02:31 AM
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:50 AM   #14015
ZXRaziel
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I am getting really fedup with the Stock carburettor , no wonder that everybody uses the mikuni TM40 or keihin FCR ,
the stock piece of shite runs like a dog ,
it was pissing fuel out of the overflov tube , i have cleaned it and adjusted the float valve - it stopped leaking but engine would not start , checked it no fuel was going in the carb , took it of again change the settings again , now fuel is comming in and the engine starts but in idle the revs will go up gradualy , if i flick the accelerator up and down the revs will drop for a moment and then rise up again , i am not exactly a carburetor guru but i have never experienced such a bad one in my life , i think i just give up and get the hammer out
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:33 AM   #14016
RTWADVGuy
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I am either lucky or just plan good but my stock carb starts first kick(with choke) never spits or sputters, no hesitations NOTHING! It just works!


I understand your frustration tho.
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:21 PM   #14017
tannerc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTWADVGuy View Post
I am either lucky or just plan good but my stock carb starts first kick(with choke) never spits or sputters, no hesitations NOTHING! It just works!


I understand your frustration tho.
I was/am having the same luck with my stock carb. I did the jetting and needle that was recommended with the uncorking process, seen it was running a bit rich on the main circuit dropped it down was size and she runs and starts very well (unless you lay it over on the trail then its a pain sometimes) runs cool on and off the trail .. So what did I do... Bought a Mikuni TM40 because of all the raging fans of the pumper and now that one is being a major pain in the ass to get dialed in. So much so that i bought an O2 sensor and O2 bung to put in my pipe to aid in this frustrating process.
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:29 PM   #14018
RTWADVGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
I was/am having the same luck with my stock carb. I did the jetting and needle that was recommended with the uncorking process, seen it was running a bit rich on the main circuit dropped it down was size and she runs and starts very well (unless you lay it over on the trail then its a pain sometimes) runs cool on and off the trail .. So what did I do... Bought a Mikuni TM40 because of all the raging fans of the pumper and now that one is being a major pain in the ass to get dialed in. So much so that i bought an O2 sensor and O2 bung to put in my pipe to aid in this frustrating process.


Yep, I live by the adage that if it is not broken, dont fix it! Well, most of the time I do.....
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:30 PM   #14019
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXRaziel View Post
I am getting really fedup with the Stock carburettor , no wonder that everybody uses the mikuni TM40 or keihin FCR ,
the stock piece of shite runs like a dog ,
it was pissing fuel out of the overflov tube , i have cleaned it and adjusted the float valve - it stopped leaking but engine would not start , checked it no fuel was going in the carb , took it of again change the settings again , now fuel is comming in and the engine starts but in idle the revs will go up gradualy , if i flick the accelerator up and down the revs will drop for a moment and then rise up again , i am not exactly a carburetor guru but i have never experienced such a bad one in my life , i think i just give up and get the hammer out
That is a common symptom of an air leak, usually in the carburetor boot. Make sure it's on the carb tight. (I had that problem once, really annoying!)
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:26 PM   #14020
slickwill
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Same here on the good luck with the stock carb. As long as my valves are adjusted it's always a one kick affair.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:09 PM   #14021
ZXRaziel
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If i only knew someone trustworthy who can repair the bas...d for me but there is noone where i live , i have had some bad experiences with some garages and i have lost my trust in them , strange feeling , surounded by people but feeling alone
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Old 08-11-2012, 06:34 PM   #14022
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXRaziel View Post
I am getting really fedup with the Stock carburettor , no wonder that everybody uses the mikuni TM40 or keihin FCR ,
the stock piece of shite runs like a dog ,
it was pissing fuel out of the overflov tube , i have cleaned it and adjusted the float valve - it stopped leaking but engine would not start , checked it no fuel was going in the carb , took it of again change the settings again , now fuel is comming in and the engine starts but in idle the revs will go up gradualy , if i flick the accelerator up and down the revs will drop for a moment and then rise up again , i am not exactly a carburetor guru but i have never experienced such a bad one in my life , i think i just give up and get the hammer out
Go back and do some looking through this thread, there is lots of posts covering problems with the stock carb, plenty of great info covering every aspect of getting it dialed in correctly. Before you toss it, just remember the TM40 isn't a magical fix, it's going to give you fits till it's dialed in correctly. The stock carb actually works very well and starts easily provided it's setup correctly. It's usally replaced with a TM40 to get the extra hp that the pumper provides.

From what you're describing it sounds like there isn't enough freeplay in the throttle cables, they work against each other and cause the throttle cam to come off of idle when they are too tight. You should feel a small amount of slack in the throttle no matter where the wheel is pointed.
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:29 PM   #14023
jules083
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Just put on the Performance Designs lowering link a few hours ago, going to play with suspension settings in the morning to get this thing dialed in.

Anyone have some baseline ideas on sag and how far to slide the forks up?

Right now the forks are 1 1/4" up, I think it may be too much. I'm worried about the front tire hitting. Maybe back slide them in to 1"? I meant to go 1", but they slid a bit easier than I expected.

I was by myself and couldn't get a good measurement on sag, but I know I have too much. I'm somewhere between 4" and 4 1/2" right now. Stock I think the recommended is about 3 3/4", maybe I should set it to about 3" or 3 1/4"? Just enough to balance the bike out and hopefully keep it from bottoming too hard.

I ride mostly slow paced single track, gravel roads, and street. Not a whole lot of jumping or high speed rough sections, but I do occasionally play a bit and bottoming the suspension is a concern.

Thanks.
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:30 PM   #14024
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Go back and do some looking through this thread, there is lots of posts covering problems with the stock carb, plenty of great info covering every aspect of getting it dialed in correctly. Before you toss it, just remember the TM40 isn't a magical fix, it's going to give you fits till it's dialed in correctly. The stock carb actually works very well and starts easily provided it's setup correctly. It's usally replaced with a TM40 to get the extra hp that the pumper provides.

From what you're describing it sounds like there isn't enough freeplay in the throttle cables, they work against each other and cause the throttle cam to come off of idle when they are too tight. You should feel a small amount of slack in the throttle no matter where the wheel is pointed.
Yes you are right , that was the first thing i have noticed when i got the bike the cables are too tight , but i cannot loosen them any more ( they are set to minimum extension on both sides ) i think that they are too short , there is no slack what so ever and the throttle moves with loads of resistance, i have cleaned and lubed it but still no good .
I have spend couple of nights reading and then testing things but just getting to the edge now .
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:44 PM   #14025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXRaziel View Post
Yes you are right , that was the first thing i have noticed when i got the bike the cables are too tight , but i cannot loosen them any more ( they are set to minimum extension on both sides ) i think that they are too short , there is no slack what so ever and the throttle moves with loads of resistance, i have cleaned and lubed it but still no good .
I have spend couple of nights reading and then testing things but just getting to the edge now .

A frayed cable will hang too.

If you have a large riser on the tripples/bars you cables may be too short. Otherwise they should have no problems. I have tall bars (CR High's) and 1.5" risers with stock cables no problem. I did route them a bit different from stock.
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