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Old 08-08-2012, 10:30 PM   #14011
phorensic
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Corona, CA
Oddometer: 13
For everyone who thinks my oil screens are clogged, I chose too thick of an oil (even though it's going to be 70-110F here for a while), and I shouldn't have needed to run the bike on the street to get a proper level check--I found someone who seems to agree with my theories, all the way back in 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Rking View Post
as far as oil level. you check in the neck of the frame but you HAVE to check after you have run it (not just idle in the garage) and as soon as you stop. Proper level is 1.6L with a filter change. If you don't check the oil properly it'll appear low (since when sitting it sits in the bottom of the motor and when running in the frame) when you are refilling it...add 1L and start it let it idle to suck it down, then kill it and add the remainder. if you try to add it all at once it'll overflow.
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:35 PM   #14012
Big_John
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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The RMAR Rendezvous was frickin awesome and the Pig performed in amazing fashion!!!!!

Next....the Pig will be carrying me on the CAM1000!!!!


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Old 08-10-2012, 10:58 AM   #14013
jwalters
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Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Little Marais, MN
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Hi Guys,
I'm in the process of rebuilding a new-to-me plated 2001 XR650R. I noticed the clutch cable is fraying on the left side of the engine case. I was wondering if there is suppose to be a clutch cable stand-off/bracket of some kind on the bike to keep the cable from touching the engine cylinder. The clutch cable has frayed down to the metal housing inside the cable. I've been looking on the OEM parts fiches but I don't see any such bracket that would hold the cable off the engine cylinder. Any ideas?

ps. I'd post a picture, but I am away on business right now, I was hoping to get the needed part ordered so it's there when I get home.
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:14 AM   #14014
tannerc
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Location: SOuth dakOTA
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Cool2 Clutch Cable

Getting the pig ready for some action JW?!

My cable does not get close to my engine, it actually runs up on the outside of the coolant hose.



There is another up close of the cable "holder" back a few pages in the thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...09774&page=401

tannerc screwed with this post 08-10-2012 at 11:18 AM Reason: linky
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:17 AM   #14015
jwalters
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Location: Little Marais, MN
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Hey man! Thanks for the picture. I think I know where the PO messed up! Much appreciated!

FYI, I sent my suspension off to superplush last week. I'm looking forward to getting it back so I can keep working on the bike. Which one of you needs my 4.3 gallon tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
Getting the pig ready for some action JW?!

My cable does not get close to my engine, it actually runs up on the outside of the coolant hose.
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:19 AM   #14016
tannerc
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TANK!
It was me!
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:21 AM   #14017
crypto666
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Joined: May 2011
Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
I run 15/43 on my XRR. It's Johnny Campbell's 2003 BITD bike so it's pretty well built. Will pull to nearly 120mph with that gearing.
I have been running a 15/47, and I run a lot of the BITD Silver State 300 course which is pretty wide open since its a truck race. WIth a 102mm 11:1 piston, bigger valves, and all that it seems to be a great all around ratio. Max speed around 90, pretty mellow at 75. Still works well on single track.

If there is no single track or slow stuff in the plan, I like the taller ratio better for sure.
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:16 PM   #14018
aaronp1264
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Joined: May 2011
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all ride, just ordered a 15/47 combo and o ring chain from ironman sprockets. i didn't want to go too tall because i still want to get all up in some single track this fall.

anything i need to know beforehand about throwing these on the piggy? can't remember the last time i put a chain on a bike... last time i put sprockets on was 3 years ago on my 93 xr200, once the job was complete i realized my top end was shot.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:22 AM   #14019
BuRPsa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Aaron,

few pointers.
First off, use new bolts for the sprocket, always. If I remember correct the Ironman comes with these, and some threadlocker/locktite won't go amiss. Then, the boss on the c/s faces the outside, and mounting it the other way round will cause a misalignment hence heavy wear everywhere.
This is the time to take out & clean the chain-adjuster bolts & nuts, and renew if needed. Also, use an overdose of anti-seize/coppaslip when mounting them, as they have a habit of seizing properly.
Also, you've got the wheel out, clean there where you can now. Wheelbearings? Clean them, seals too (new one's are cheap), and waterresistant grease is best. A thin smear of coppaslip on the axle aint a bad idea.
Check your brakepads, clean the caliper, and I use coppaslip when I reassemble these things, also on the pad's sliding surfaces (there where they ride in the caliper!). Know that sintered pads last, and normal one's will wear to 'gone' in just hours of wet sandy riverbed - ask me, I know, will never make that mistake again.
Check the rollers and sliders for wear, especially the one on the swingarm at the bottom - all fine? Renew when not, and clean & lube the rollers bearing pins.
On the swingarm, all bearings fine, no play, all lubed, you're sure? Yeah, lots of work, but now's the time to rip it out and make sure all's good.
Then the chain. No clip-type master link but only a riveted one, this bike has WAAYY too much power for such, and you need the tools for this - got? Ditto for breaking the chain to the correct length, and, unless you want to be able to use it for varying ratios/sprockets, keep it as short as possible ie the wheel most-forward in the swinger. This reduces the wheelbase hence the steering, some here have remarked on this to be noticeable. Regarding the chain breaking & riveting tool I can recommend DID's tool, as superb as their chains. If you have to buy one get a spare pin then also, as this thing may chip/break on you if you're doing things slightly misaligned - and yes, I did once, hence me having the spare now
If you do all this then you're sure to have a reliable setup which will last a good while. Keeping it clean and greased when possible should give you a very long service life.

BuRPsa screwed with this post 08-11-2012 at 03:31 AM
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:50 AM   #14020
ZXRaziel
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Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 401
I am getting really fedup with the Stock carburettor , no wonder that everybody uses the mikuni TM40 or keihin FCR ,
the stock piece of shite runs like a dog ,
it was pissing fuel out of the overflov tube , i have cleaned it and adjusted the float valve - it stopped leaking but engine would not start , checked it no fuel was going in the carb , took it of again change the settings again , now fuel is comming in and the engine starts but in idle the revs will go up gradualy , if i flick the accelerator up and down the revs will drop for a moment and then rise up again , i am not exactly a carburetor guru but i have never experienced such a bad one in my life , i think i just give up and get the hammer out
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:33 PM   #14021
RTWADVGuy
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I am either lucky or just plan good but my stock carb starts first kick(with choke) never spits or sputters, no hesitations NOTHING! It just works!


I understand your frustration tho.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:21 PM   #14022
tannerc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTWADVGuy View Post
I am either lucky or just plan good but my stock carb starts first kick(with choke) never spits or sputters, no hesitations NOTHING! It just works!


I understand your frustration tho.
I was/am having the same luck with my stock carb. I did the jetting and needle that was recommended with the uncorking process, seen it was running a bit rich on the main circuit dropped it down was size and she runs and starts very well (unless you lay it over on the trail then its a pain sometimes) runs cool on and off the trail .. So what did I do... Bought a Mikuni TM40 because of all the raging fans of the pumper and now that one is being a major pain in the ass to get dialed in. So much so that i bought an O2 sensor and O2 bung to put in my pipe to aid in this frustrating process.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:29 PM   #14023
RTWADVGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
I was/am having the same luck with my stock carb. I did the jetting and needle that was recommended with the uncorking process, seen it was running a bit rich on the main circuit dropped it down was size and she runs and starts very well (unless you lay it over on the trail then its a pain sometimes) runs cool on and off the trail .. So what did I do... Bought a Mikuni TM40 because of all the raging fans of the pumper and now that one is being a major pain in the ass to get dialed in. So much so that i bought an O2 sensor and O2 bung to put in my pipe to aid in this frustrating process.


Yep, I live by the adage that if it is not broken, dont fix it! Well, most of the time I do.....
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #14024
bamfslap
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXRaziel View Post
I am getting really fedup with the Stock carburettor , no wonder that everybody uses the mikuni TM40 or keihin FCR ,
the stock piece of shite runs like a dog ,
it was pissing fuel out of the overflov tube , i have cleaned it and adjusted the float valve - it stopped leaking but engine would not start , checked it no fuel was going in the carb , took it of again change the settings again , now fuel is comming in and the engine starts but in idle the revs will go up gradualy , if i flick the accelerator up and down the revs will drop for a moment and then rise up again , i am not exactly a carburetor guru but i have never experienced such a bad one in my life , i think i just give up and get the hammer out
That is a common symptom of an air leak, usually in the carburetor boot. Make sure it's on the carb tight. (I had that problem once, really annoying!)
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:26 PM   #14025
slickwill
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Same here on the good luck with the stock carb. As long as my valves are adjusted it's always a one kick affair.
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