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Old 08-14-2012, 02:29 PM   #14056
Garthe
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Location: Arizona
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Sean, tell us some info on those gas bladders...

Are they ment for gas use?

Do they leak?

How long do they last?

How much do they cost?
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #14057
Sean-0
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we were going to go up north but theres to many trees ..hence a desert ride

Garth ....The bladders hold 12 ltrs ....they are made for fuel they are around 150 bucks each ...they will last a lifetime if looked after ..very tuff

has a screw on cap with a spout to pour fuel ....and ring eyelets on the seams to tie them on if need be

a mate of mine come up with the idea of getting a bag made to hold them each side of the tank

there very stable and dont move about ..they dont leak but they do leech fuel vapour so cant be packed in your bag when empty ..you can roll them up and tie them ontop of your gear Aussie made product
they can make them any shape you like and any size

work very well for long hauls ...should give me a range of about 550kms to 600 kms so 400 odd miles in range

we have a ride report we started and 1 of the boys is bringing his laptop to update as we go

here's the link
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815554

the stickers i had made up by a mate of mine ..we gunna stick em on shit when were out there
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Old 08-14-2012, 04:39 PM   #14058
Cruz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
Snakes ...and spiders ..we eat them suckers
Swags are the go mate ..yea i got tents and shit ..but there a pain in the ass to setup ..packup ..see my swag holds all my gear and my clothes ..roll it up strap it on .. im away
Hmmm, thought it was because they pack up quick in the morning to give you more time to get your bike started and be ready to leave with everyone else with tents. Have a safe trip Sean, when do you want to get that gear?
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:21 PM   #14059
brapp-alot-puss
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Oil change on the Pig...

So, I just changed the oil in the Pig for the first time. I feel like I did it right but need affirmation that the filter is in correctly. Since it shot out after loosening the last screw on the cover I could not refer to the orientation of the old one. It seems the spring installs into the recessed part of the filter? Also it seemed to take less than the 1,75ish liters. I ran it at idle, then checked it, then gently rode around the block and checked it. Both times it seemed fine. Any advice?
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:37 PM   #14060
XRx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
we were going to go up north but theres to many trees ..
Come clean Sean-0, you know those are front impact air bags.

Seriously though have a great trip. Sounds like a good time. The swag setup sounds pretty good.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:50 PM   #14061
Sean-0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brapp-alot-puss View Post
So, I just changed the oil in the Pig for the first time. I feel like I did it right but need affirmation that the filter is in correctly. Since it shot out after loosening the last screw on the cover I could not refer to the orientation of the old one. It seems the spring installs into the recessed part of the filter? Also it seemed to take less than the 1,75ish liters. I ran it at idle, then checked it, then gently rode around the block and checked it. Both times it seemed fine. Any advice?
your on the money mate

Airbags .... didnt think of that ...Yea gunna be a great ride ...i have total faith in my rig ....she'll get me home
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:59 PM   #14062
Sean-0
straya carnt
 
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Location: Mumblebum Northern NSW
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Had a few ppl ask about the bladders and bag
heres a shot of them



the hole in the middle of the bags is to put over your fuel neck
the bags have eyelets to allow for the bags to be tied down but can still remove the bladders

the bladders are 12ltrs but hold about 11ltrs each side
they leech fuel vapor so cant be stored in your bags or tent ....hence the bag option when empty the bag just stays there ...is far enough forward to not impeed your knees

http://www.liquidcontainment.com/fuel_bladders.php

i think the bladders came from these guys
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:18 AM   #14063
johnyrrr
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Need some Supermoto wheels

LEt me know if any of you BRPerz want to get rid of your XR650R setup. Also where can I find the backing plate for a Twin Air Filter. My bike came with a K&N and a Twin Air but just the filter foam for the Twin Air and I dont really want to run the K&N if I dont have to.
Shes got a stage 2 cam
Big Gun ()
and holy cow does she BRAP!
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:10 AM   #14064
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brapp-alot-puss View Post
So, I just changed the oil in the Pig for the first time. I feel like I did it right but need affirmation that the filter is in correctly. Since it shot out after loosening the last screw on the cover I could not refer to the orientation of the old one. It seems the spring installs into the recessed part of the filter? Also it seemed to take less than the 1,75ish liters. I ran it at idle, then checked it, then gently rode around the block and checked it. Both times it seemed fine. Any advice?

Sounds right as long as you put "this side out" towards the outside...
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Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 08-15-2012, 12:10 PM   #14065
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Wink rear shock

So what is your guys opinion on the rear shock. I am trying to do a mental cost benefit analysis of redoing the shock.

Everything on my bike has been rebuild/built up, except the rear shock (has 10kg spring). Last night I changed the bearings, flushed it, refilled and recharged. It had a considerable amount nitrogen in the oil which had to be effecting the rebound, I assume it seeped in osmotically through the bladder over the past ten years.

I was ready to send it to racetech for a rebuild and gold valve and maybe a rebound seperator valve, but was going back over the Bornyack stuff and he says the stock valve is pretty good. So now I am thinking to just rebuild it myself this winter, and just put new seals and redo the shim stacks.


What would you do? Send it to racetech for $250-350 and get everything done? Do it yourself and just replace the consumables? Redo shims also? Or just oil and nitro and ride the hell out of it?

I don't race so not interested in the cr500 hybrid.

I don't have any real complaints right now, but I am sure it could be better.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:41 PM   #14066
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brapp-alot-puss View Post
So, I just changed the oil in the Pig for the first time. I feel like I did it right but need affirmation that the filter is in correctly. Since it shot out after loosening the last screw on the cover I could not refer to the orientation of the old one. It seems the spring installs into the recessed part of the filter? Also it seemed to take less than the 1,75ish liters. I ran it at idle, then checked it, then gently rode around the block and checked it. Both times it seemed fine. Any advice?
The oil filter goes in with the rubber ring facing out from the engine , it takes 1.6 litres to change the oil and oil filter .
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:45 PM   #14067
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnyrrr View Post
LEt me know if any of you BRPerz want to get rid of your XR650R setup. Also where can I find the backing plate for a Twin Air Filter. My bike came with a K&N and a Twin Air but just the filter foam for the Twin Air and I dont really want to run the K&N if I dont have to.
Shes got a stage 2 cam
Big Gun ()
and holy cow does she BRAP!
Trow the k&n filter in the bin , no matter what some say they are very bad filters , bad filtration capabilities .
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:23 PM   #14068
Shibby!
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Currently - Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
So what is your guys opinion on the rear shock. I am trying to do a mental cost benefit analysis of redoing the shock.

Everything on my bike has been rebuild/built up, except the rear shock (has 10kg spring). Last night I changed the bearings, flushed it, refilled and recharged. It had a considerable amount nitrogen in the oil which had to be effecting the rebound, I assume it seeped in osmotically through the bladder over the past ten years.

I was ready to send it to racetech for a rebuild and gold valve and maybe a rebound seperator valve, but was going back over the Bornyack stuff and he says the stock valve is pretty good. So now I am thinking to just rebuild it myself this winter, and just put new seals and redo the shim stacks.


What would you do? Send it to racetech for $250-350 and get everything done? Do it yourself and just replace the consumables? Redo shims also? Or just oil and nitro and ride the hell out of it?

I don't race so not interested in the cr500 hybrid.

I don't have any real complaints right now, but I am sure it could be better.

How did you know nitrogen was in your oil?!

Just use Borynacks site and use his valving. I'm 93.5% happy with it =) Don't think it gets any better once luggage is on either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXRaziel View Post
The oil filter goes in with the rubber ring facing out from the engine , it takes 1.6 litres to change the oil and oil filter .
1.8 liters with filter, 1.6 without.
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Tour of Idaho T1 Challenge - https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php...551f1642711d75
Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 08-16-2012, 06:28 AM   #14069
mr. coffee
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hey there guys. long time listener first time caller. wanted to first of all thank everybody out there for all of the help, support, and information you have made available to all xr owners in the adv. rider community. what a great group of people. i have learned so much from this thread.

purchased a 2000 xr650r from a fellow inmate back in feb. the bike has very low hours and seems to be well set up. uncorked, rejetted, nice seat, tank, etc. after owning many different bikes in the past, i am having an absolute blast with this one. until the other day.

with my truck in the shop with major timing sprocket issues. i have been happily commuting on the pig. then all of a sudden it will not start. usually 1/2 choke and a couple of kicks and it is good. i have kicked the thing a hundred times in the past two days and nothing. i feel like it is not getting a spark, but why. went to pull the plug last night, but didn't bring the right size plug socket. ( bike is at my girlfriend's house and thankfully she is letting me ride her sportster )

here is where you guys come in. i feel like it is something very simple that i am overlooking. the carb is stock and it is definitely getting fuel. ( i can smell it ) the kill switch is not stuck and the decomp lever is operating freely. it has plenty of fuel in the tank and yes i have opened the petcock valve. i will get the plug out tomorrow and see what is going on, but in any case i have been looking for an excuse to post something here, so now i have it. thanks in advance for all of your help

one other question is ... do y'all have any recommendations on spark plug types?

best of luck to everyone, and you fellows down under keep up the entertaining posts. cheers
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Old 08-16-2012, 08:40 AM   #14070
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. coffee View Post
hey there guys. long time listener first time caller. wanted to first of all thank everybody out there for all of the help, support, and information you have made available to all xr owners in the adv. rider community. what a great group of people. i have learned so much from this thread.

purchased a 2000 xr650r from a fellow inmate back in feb. the bike has very low hours and seems to be well set up. uncorked, rejetted, nice seat, tank, etc. after owning many different bikes in the past, i am having an absolute blast with this one. until the other day.

with my truck in the shop with major timing sprocket issues. i have been happily commuting on the pig. then all of a sudden it will not start. usually 1/2 choke and a couple of kicks and it is good. i have kicked the thing a hundred times in the past two days and nothing. i feel like it is not getting a spark, but why. went to pull the plug last night, but didn't bring the right size plug socket. ( bike is at my girlfriend's house and thankfully she is letting me ride her sportster )

here is where you guys come in. i feel like it is something very simple that i am overlooking. the carb is stock and it is definitely getting fuel. ( i can smell it ) the kill switch is not stuck and the decomp lever is operating freely. it has plenty of fuel in the tank and yes i have opened the petcock valve. i will get the plug out tomorrow and see what is going on, but in any case i have been looking for an excuse to post something here, so now i have it. thanks in advance for all of your help

one other question is ... do y'all have any recommendations on spark plug types?

best of luck to everyone, and you fellows down under keep up the entertaining posts. cheers

For me, hard starting is usually a sign of either a clogged idle jet in the carb (not likely in your scenario) or valves out of adjustment. You'd be amazed at having the results of the right valve lash....

To check for spark, you don't need to remove your spark plug. Just pull the cap and put it on a spare (doesn't even really need to be the 'right' one, either). It's a bit more figgidy trying to get it grounded and kicked over by yourself, though.
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