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Old 08-16-2012, 08:27 AM   #14071
jwalters
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Hi ya'll,
I'm a bit overwhelmed trying to find a good aftermarket seat that fits the Acerbis tank. I've search and searched and there is almost too much information out there. Unfortunately, I haven't found what I am looking for. Some aftermarket seat makers (like corbin) have different model seats for different tanks, but none specifcally mention the Acerbis 6 gallon.

So here it is, I need a much taller aftermarket seat for my XR650R but it has to fit on an Acerbis 6 gallon tank. Let me know if you have this setup and what seat worked for you. Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2012, 08:40 AM   #14072
Dread Pendragon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi ya'll,
I'm a bit overwhelmed trying to find a good aftermarket seat that fits the Acerbis tank. I've search and searched and there is almost too much information out there. Unfortunately, I haven't found what I am looking for. Some aftermarket seat makers (like corbin) have different model seats for different tanks, but none specifcally mention the Acerbis 6 gallon.

So here it is, I need a much taller aftermarket seat for my XR650R but it has to fit on an Acerbis 6 gallon tank. Let me know if you have this setup and what seat worked for you. Thanks!
My brother has an SDG tall seat and it seems to fit just fine with his Acerbis 6 gallon tank. It's a better seat than the stock, but is certainly isn't a Renazco or a Corbin seat.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:02 AM   #14073
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How did you know nitrogen was in your oil?!

Just use Borynacks site and use his valving. I'm 93.5% happy with it =) Don't think it gets any better once luggage is on either.



1.8 liters with filter, 1.6 without.

Because when I removed the rebound adjuster it shot oil all over the place. I think my bladder might be bad.

Does your rebound adjuster make any difference that you can notice? It doesn't seem to change much on mine.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:11 AM   #14074
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Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
My brother has an SDG tall seat and it seems to fit just fine with his Acerbis 6 gallon tank. It's a better seat than the stock, but is certainly isn't a Renazco or a Corbin seat.

I've got a Corbin for the XRR, it fits all of the smaller tanks(IMS/Clarke) except the 6.3 Acerbis. Had a Renazco on my 610, it was okay for 2007 dollars, at todays going rate I'd look for something else...buy foam and cover make your own seat type of thing.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:08 AM   #14075
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Because when I removed the rebound adjuster it shot oil all over the place. I think my bladder might be bad.

Does your rebound adjuster make any difference that you can notice? It doesn't seem to change much on mine.

The bladder pressures the whole system. What you did was allow the bladder to expand and push the oil out.

The bladder is probably "worn" as per manual anyways. A new bladder is ultra cheap and might as well replace it. If you take it off, or reduce pressure to 0, it should return to unwrinkled shape. I bet it won't and that's when the manual says to replace.

Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I've got a Corbin for the XRR, it fits all of the smaller tanks(IMS/Clarke) except the 6.3 Acerbis. Had a Renazco on my 610, it was okay for 2007 dollars, at todays going rate I'd look for something else...buy foam and cover make your own seat type of thing.

Seat Concepts is worth checking out. Way better then stock, but I can't compare to other seats. Fits Acerbis no problem.


For spark plugs I just use the factory recommendations. They can be found at Napa here in Canada. I assume Autozone, etc would have them in the states too.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:42 AM   #14076
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Originally Posted by crypto666
Because when I removed the rebound adjuster it shot oil all over the place. I think my bladder might be bad.

Does your rebound adjuster make any difference that you can notice? It doesn't seem to change much on mine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
The bladder pressures the whole system. What you did was allow the bladder to expand and push the oil out.

The bladder is probably "worn" as per manual anyways. A new bladder is ultra cheap and might as well replace it. If you take it off, or reduce pressure to 0, it should return to unwrinkled shape. I bet it won't and that's when the manual says to replace.

U2 keep chatting please, I'm learning here!
I did read somewhere how to take apart a shock but haven't done this myself yet.
I also seem to remember that some dudes were not too happy having done the Borynack-mod on the rear, this whilst they had done the front - and were full of praise with that bit. So I'm a bit wary to do the rear, but will most definitely do the front.
Good to know that Shibby is happy with his/this mod. Mind telling what the main diff's are?
Crypto, how did you pressurize the shock with nitrogen again? Had it done at a tyre place, or done yourself in some way maybe?
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:51 AM   #14077
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Coffee,

I'm with Captain! I bet if you adjust the valves (which you know you should do quite often, and keep track how quick they close-up?) it will start first kick. You mentioned this yourself, a 'few kicks' and it starts - nope, it should do this on the first (after cycling it a few times with the decomp in), but if not on the second whack.
But no bad thing to look at the plug, and new is better than used or up-used in any case. Stick to the recommended NGK. I have never taken a faulty one out of a box yet, but Bosch & Champion I have. A thin smear of anti seize/coppaslip on the tread will go a long way to protect the head's thread and guarantee simple removal the next time too.
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:47 PM   #14078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi ya'll,
I'm a bit overwhelmed trying to find a good aftermarket seat that fits the Acerbis tank. I've search and searched and there is almost too much information out there. Unfortunately, I haven't found what I am looking for. Some aftermarket seat makers (like corbin) have different model seats for different tanks, but none specifcally mention the Acerbis 6 gallon.

So here it is, I need a much taller aftermarket seat for my XR650R but it has to fit on an Acerbis 6 gallon tank. Let me know if you have this setup and what seat worked for you. Thanks!
I am in the same situation , after some searching i think that the Renazco is the best choice + reasonably priced .
added to my wish list ( feck its starting to be very long )
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:05 PM   #14079
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Originally Posted by crypto666
Because when I removed the rebound adjuster it shot oil all over the place. I think my bladder might be bad.

Does your rebound adjuster make any difference that you can notice? It doesn't seem to change much on mine.





U2 keep chatting please, I'm learning here!
I did read somewhere how to take apart a shock but haven't done this myself yet.
I also seem to remember that some dudes were not too happy having done the Borynack-mod on the rear, this whilst they had done the front - and were full of praise with that bit. So I'm a bit wary to do the rear, but will most definitely do the front.
Good to know that Shibby is happy with his/this mod. Mind telling what the main diff's are?
Crypto, how did you pressurize the shock with nitrogen again? Had it done at a tyre place, or done yourself in some way maybe?
Depends what people want in a suspension. I generally like my dirt bikes to be on the firmer side even though a plush ride makes for railing bumps, it does has it surprised when it decides to step out. It can also provide less feedback. That's what I found with Borynacks stack. It'll rail whoops and rough terrain, but because of it's softness it feels a little less responsive in technical terrain and corners. Load it up with a full Acerbis tank and luggage and it's just about right though. Plus with that much weight I'm not riding race pace.

I did tweak my settings with the clickers a bit from his recommendations. Once again, my bike was loaded down so I knew one change was adding more rebound resistance to the rear shock since the rear was a bit flighty the first time in Baja. Two clicks at a time I dialed it in, now it tracks pretty straight even when things get ugly. Before it would hop around a bit which can get scary, real quick. Locally we don't have whoops and without my luggage I feel the rear rebound is a bit slow. I haven't go around to playing with it because it's not bad.

So I'm not saying it's the best, but for a cheap DIY project it's WAY better then stock. I wouldn't even ride another stock valved XRR again. I was scared to go down roads with potholes because of the suspension. The rear wasn't nearly as bad but the front forks with whale snot is just downright dangerous. Adding the correct springs always helps get the forks in the proper stroke area. Im running cut/spaced stock springs but I have a rated set in some spare suspension I have. The rear is 10.5kg I think.

Shops can do suspension for you, but basically they are guessing at your terrain, weight, requirements, etc. Nobody can fine tune it but yourself. Sadly, shims aren't easily revised so you either have to take a shops word, or somebody elses (borynack) or learn the black art and do it yourself. Borynack's setting makes a pretty good baseline without 10's of hours of work and test riding.

As for the bladder, its a "bladder" in your shock reservoir. You fill and bleed your shock (not that fun of a job), then install the bladder/airvalve. There should be NO air in the shock. Air makes tiny bubbles and that plays havoc with viscosity (Think leaking strut car, etc). After the air valve/bladder is installed you put nitrogen into the bladder to pressure the whole system (it presses against the oil surrounding the bladder. When the shock compresses the piston quickly moves up, pushing oil both through the shim stack and back through the compression valve and into the reservoir where the nitrogen can compress some to take the sudden spike in oil pressure. Some fancy suspension has piston type devises in the reservoir but most (all?) offroad suspension has air bladders.

Front forks differ and have a few different methods. Ours is pretty standard. Not necessarily a bad design. Good and simple like it should be =)

If the original poster has issues with his clickers not adjusting at all, I suspect either they over-torqued the nut holding the shim stack, or they got locktite in the shims. Both of these are covered in Borynacks site. For some reason I remember a potential typo regarding the shock shim stack nut torque limit. Inquire about that prior to doing the modification. I think I used the service manual spec limit and not Borynacks. I believe his was in-lbs and not ft-lbs, whereas the front is in in-lbs and correct (matched service manual). Something like that anyways.

The hardest part of doing the full suspension is

- Chamfering the nut's stakes. Keep in mind you can only do this so much before you need a new shaft! Only take off the required material and make sure the threads are good when installing the nut. Be absolutely positive the threads aren't crossed when tightening it on. If not enough material is removed you can damage the nut's threads as well.
- Bleeding the rear shock. Not hard, just requires persistence and patience. You'll probably spray yourself in the face with oil once or twice too resulting in some choice words. Be very careful and you might avoid this. VERY slow, steady movements and be prepared for the shaft to suddenly shoot forward/backward spraying oil out the valve hole!

I've now done my suspension a few times without too many issues. I once damaged a seal on the shock piston which required replacement (sharp shaft edges from lathe - tiny nick in the seal), had the forks done twice for some reason (fluid change?), and screwed my rear shock shaft threads requiring me to buy second set of suspension off an inmate to get a new shock shaft rod. I had that shock apart, and rebuilt with updated stack in less then an hour (not counting bleeding). Ironically I was rebuilding it because after about 6000km the rear shock started leaking. Once again, a new shock piston was put in (20$ only! Whoo hoo!). It's now got 24,000 KM leak free service.

When I get a lower mileage motor/frame I'll likely change the oil and replace bushings and seals on the forks. I know the dust seals are in bad shape but they have never leaked leading me on to believe the actual seals are in good shape. Gators / socks are awesome at saving seals.

Before doing the job it's a good idea to have a bladder around for the rear shock. Its cheap (7$?). Shock pistons (20$) can be ordered if you damage the seals. Online retailers will have it shipped in a few days.

Depending on how much use new bushings/seals on the forks could be done. If operation is smooth and everything looks good it's not needed. If you do a spacer/cut springs make absolutely sure you put the spacer ON TOP of the spring. On the bottom the spacer will rub the walls of the forks. On the top they don't move against anything.

Sorry about the rambling, lengthy post. Just scribbling things down as I think of it.

I love my XRR =)

Last ride I did was showing around some dual sport riders to a local area. They all commented how quick and nimble the XRR looked.
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:49 PM   #14080
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
The bladder pressures the whole system. What you did was allow the bladder to expand and push the oil out.

The bladder is probably "worn" as per manual anyways. A new bladder is ultra cheap and might as well replace it. If you take it off, or reduce pressure to 0, it should return to unwrinkled shape. I bet it won't and that's when the manual says to replace.




Seat Concepts is worth checking out. Way better then stock, but I can't compare to other seats. Fits Acerbis no problem.


For spark plugs I just use the factory recommendations. They can be found at Napa here in Canada. I assume Autozone, etc would have them in the states too.

Nope, I depressurized the bladder before cracking the rebound valve. There should have been no real pressure in the system, but there was to my suprise. The bladder was the right shape and it held its shape, but it does need to be replaced. There was black goo in the res from the bladder which must be degrading, but the shock itself was internally clean. I used suspension clean to douche it out.
It was an improve shock service. I was only planning to replace to bad top bearing, but you know how that goes. I think I will send it to racetech, but I will probably wait until Burpsa and I go for a trip. I learned from doing the forks that just the cost of buying extra shims I don't need will cover labor costs. Plus, I won't end up with my head covered in shock fluid, but it is silky smooth.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:00 PM   #14081
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Thanks for the rambling shibby! That is helpful stuff. I am not sure why the rebound adjuster isn't adjusting. As far as I know, I am the first to pull this shock out so everything should be stock. I figured it had to be the bubbly fluid, but now that I got it back together with no change I don't know. I will check it again tonight to make sure all of the air is out.


Burpsa, I recharged it with a nitrogen bottle of course. When you play with motocycles, paintballs, and a truck with rebuildable shocks, you got to have some nitrogen around. I will show you the details in october.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:00 PM   #14082
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Seat Concepts= I have not tried one but I hear good things
I have this five seats. corbin will not work with the 6.3
Renazco= best
Corbin= ok but will not do it again
gut tall soft= best deal and I use it more than the others
stock= sucks
sdg stock= sucks
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:18 PM   #14083
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Thanks for the rambling shibby! That is helpful stuff. I am not sure why the rebound adjuster isn't adjusting. As far as I know, I am the first to pull this shock out so everything should be stock. I figured it had to be the bubbly fluid, but now that I got it back together with no change I don't know. I will check it again tonight to make sure all of the air is out.


Burpsa, I recharged it with a nitrogen bottle of course. When you play with motocycles, paintballs, and a truck with rebuildable shocks, you got to have some nitrogen around. I will show you the details in october.

As for adjustment I figured you were dealing with the forks, not the shock. Not sure why it won't work.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:18 PM   #14084
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I have a Renazco for my KTM 990 Adv and I like it. But I'm not trying to figure out which aftermarket seat maker I like more than the other. I just want to know which seats fit on the XR with an Acerbis tank. Because Corbin and others have said their tanks don't fit with the Acerbis, so I am wondering if I need to rework the seat pan before I ship it off to one of the vendors.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNastybrp View Post
Seat Concepts= I have not tried one but I hear good things
I have this five seats. corbin will work with the 6.3
Renazco= best
Corbin= ok but will not do it again
gut tall soft= best deal ad I use it the ore tha the other
stock= sucks
sdg stock= sucks
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:36 PM   #14085
BigNastybrp
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Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
I have a Renazco for my KTM 990 Adv and I like it. But I'm not trying to figure out which aftermarket seat maker I like more than the other. I just want to know which seats fit on the XR with an Acerbis tank. Because Corbin and others have said their tanks don't fit with the Acerbis, so I am wondering if I need to rework the seat pan before I ship it off to one of the vendors.
sorry typo corbin will not work with the Acerbis 6.3 all the others will work as long as the seat pan is flexible
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