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Old 08-17-2012, 01:39 PM   #14101
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
Hey!

Has anyone found a way to replace the shock bearings with something more reliable? I'm thinking about unibal joints. Opinions?

Alex :)

Are you talking about heim joints/ball joints?
I haven't heard of many failures of these bearings, mine I just replaced this week were brand new in 2002. Is it an issue?

I don't know how you would do that, and I really don't think you want a ball joint on the top and bottom as this would allow the shock to rotate a bit and it would bang the crap out of the reservoir and frame.

You could concievable ream out the shock mounting holes and fit a bigger bearing, but then you are weakening the shock. So I don't know.

I just replaced mine with Allballs bearings, after two days and 7 miles they are still like new.
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:45 PM   #14102
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Originally Posted by gmanski View Post
I dont have a skid plate, the knocking definitely comes from the engine.
It is not that loud when the engine is cold, it gets louder when the engine gets warm.

The valves have been adjusted 300 ks ago.

That is starting to sound not so good. These can be noisey engines, and mine had an intermitent knocking before the rebuild which I believed was normal. Ran fine for several thousand miles. However, during the rebuild I found the small end of the connecting rod was on its way out; gauled up pretty bad. Since the rebuild I don't have a knocking noise.

However, the knocking more when warm could still be detonation. If it is detonating, I think you should see some signs on the plug, like aluminum sparkles on the ceramic.

Or if it is like Larryboy says, intake backfires, then perhaps a vacuum leak?

Try a thicker oil maybe, that could help narrow things down.. Also, you could send some oil in for analysis and see what is going on in the engine as far as bearing wear.

Is the knocking under load? OR just revving in nuetral?
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:06 PM   #14103
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If you think your bike is too light, get a Corbin!?! Their 1/2" thick fiberglass seat pans weigh a ton!
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:30 PM   #14104
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cragdweller View Post
Have any of you big guys (I'm 6'4", 240) resprung the stock XRR forks/shock without revalving? I'm about to do this just to see how the stock valving works for my type of riding. Just curious how this has worked for others...
Swapping springs isnt' that hard, so you can at least get the spring rates and sag numbers right for you which is the first step anyways. The stock valving won't work well, but at least you'll have a baseline for when you do decide to tackle a re-valve. I've done the forks and shock per Borynack's info, and am pretty happy. The worst part of the job is filling the shock reservoir with oil and bleeding the air. That and keeping everything clean and organized....not one of my best traits.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:43 PM   #14105
mr. coffee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
For me, hard starting is usually a sign of either a clogged idle jet in the carb (not likely in your scenario) or valves out of adjustment. You'd be amazed at having the results of the right valve lash....

To check for spark, you don't need to remove your spark plug. Just pull the cap and put it on a spare (doesn't even really need to be the 'right' one, either). It's a bit more figgidy trying to get it grounded and kicked over by yourself, though.
thanks for the help. i'm on the right track now.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:00 PM   #14106
BigNastybrp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cragdweller View Post
Have any of you big guys (I'm 6'4", 240) resprung the stock XRR forks/shock without revalving? I'm about to do this just to see how the stock valving works for my type of riding. Just curious how this has worked for others...
I did this and I am 6.1" 250bls better than what it was but I am sure it would be better with the valve work.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:04 PM   #14107
BigNastybrp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
I've got a Guts tall/soft seat kit that I keep thinking I need sell.

It's used in that I put it on my seat pan, but I didn't ride with it much after I tried my brother's SDG tall seat and decided to get one of those.

I can't remember what they cost new, but if anyone is interested we can figure out what a new one costs and I'll give you a great deal on it.
I think it was $60 foam and $60 for cover. some one should pick that up, I use the guts more than the others
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:21 PM   #14108
Hoologan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi ya'll,
I'm a bit overwhelmed trying to find a good aftermarket seat that fits the Acerbis tank. I've search and searched and there is almost too much information out there. Unfortunately, I haven't found what I am looking for. Some aftermarket seat makers (like corbin) have different model seats for different tanks, but none specifcally mention the Acerbis 6 gallon.

So here it is, I need a much taller aftermarket seat for my XR650R but it has to fit on an Acerbis 6 gallon tank. Let me know if you have this setup and what seat worked for you. Thanks!
I have the guts tall foam and cover and it works well with the acerbis tank.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:58 PM   #14109
fire1998
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How the hell do you blow up an XR650!! Raced Vegas to Reno today. Made it 210 miles till motor locked up solid. Bike was running great until then. Bike developed a valve tick and it locked up a few miles later. Downshifted into a corner and it locked!! All I can think of is maybe oil pump failed. No leaks on bike oil or coolant. When bike locked I took air filter off and it was full of coolant and it was steaming out of airbox. Bike was double/ triple checked!! Ladt thing we thought we had to worry about was motor!!
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:06 AM   #14110
BuRPsa
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Shibby, great post, appreciated. Your "I love my XXR" says it all


Gmanski,

pinging or detonation one does not get at partial loads, you mention "when running in mid revs". You'll get detonation when opening up, when loading the bike - so it won't be pinging. And no, your idling circuit/screw won't affect the mix here.
However, you said you did the valves 300km's ago - so check here, or rather re-check? Make ab-so-lu-te-ly sure that the engine does not reverse back, not an iota, as that will throw off the exhaust-valve's play (the auto-decomp system!) which you then will have set to 'too wide' - which you will hear. And do take the plug out when you get busy, makes life simpler.
If it is not this then others have given pointers which you better check if there's really something wrong, and do keep in mind that some have reported that this bike can be a bit noisy. You were the guy who's going to ride to Down Under aren't you? Better open it up at home & make sure than along route in some lost place where matches are had to come by.


Fire,

your head is ported? If so then they took off too much, head's cracked it sounds like. Don't tell me you run that never-boil-off coolant, forget the name, you better do too. If your (inner) jug is cracked then you've got quite costly problems, and do dig deeper than the base gasket as you seized it, cranks don't like this. Valve tick? When you take off the rocker cover and see shot followers you'll know if your oil pump resigned.
Sorry bru, time for some expenditure and extended TLC.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:09 AM   #14111
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire1998 View Post
How the hell do you blow up an XR650!! Raced Vegas to Reno today. Made it 210 miles till motor locked up solid. Bike was running great until then. Bike developed a valve tick and it locked up a few miles later. Downshifted into a corner and it locked!! All I can think of is maybe oil pump failed. No leaks on bike oil or coolant. When bike locked I took air filter off and it was full of coolant and it was steaming out of airbox. Bike was double/ triple checked!! Ladt thing we thought we had to worry about was motor!!
How much time on the engine? One thing I have always been worried about is blowing out the oil jet for cyclinder/c-rod.
Hopefully, since it sounds like you weren't under power when it locked, the damage is minimal.

That sucks. There is usually someone there associated with xrsonly, talk to them. I have a few spares over in Caliente, but you probably aren't in a hurry now.

Casey will be happy to sell you a new Beta.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:29 AM   #14112
achile
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Hey guys
! I've started an interesting mod on my piggy. I'm talking about the shock bearings. The stock job is with needle bearings and bushings. Needle bearings and bearings, in general aren't really made for static loads and needles and balls tend to stamp themselfs into the raceways. I've ordered two uniball joints and started the mod. The top one is an easy fix. Just put the new joint in the housing and machine the inner bushing(the long one, part ) to 7.3 mm. The top part is now connected. Now the tricky part... I have to make two bushings to connect the lower part of the shock to the links.

Tech data:
-these are the unibals
http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalo...odid=183201010
http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalo...odid=183201012

And these are the bushings, and the materials we have to use.


Why did I do this?
It's cheaper 12 $ per joint
It's better the static and dinamic loads are much bigger. You can check out the specs and make a comparison :). This is a needle bearing of similar size:
http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalo...odid=146101047

P.S: you can use the stock seals :)

achile screwed with this post 08-18-2012 at 09:34 AM Reason: ...I'm a senile old man
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:46 AM   #14113
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XRR Noise Question for the Guru's

Guy's my BRP is fairly new to me so I need someone's ear that knows these things. I've had a ton of bikes and both my ATC250sx's have kinda sounded like this, but I want to check and makes sure I'm not about to loose a rod bearing. Some have referred the the XRR as have a marble in a can sound much like a diesel. I have the stock plastic skid on, fresh oil its fully up to temp. starting around 3500 rpm at light load it makes the sound and then becomes indistinguishable about 4200ish.


and also

you'll hear me say "right there" that's the noise in question but its audible longer on the first video. I'm going to recheck the valves but i'm fairly certain they are within spec and this doesn't sound like valve noise to me anyway. Please weigh and and let me know what you think. I have a tendency to over analyze things but I would rather fix it now before it does major damage later if so. Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:30 PM   #14114
cdogg44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
"Question for those with the Acerbis tanks. Did anybody have issues with the supplied petcocks? Or did you switch out for a higher quality ones?"







http://www.clarkemfg.com/cart/index....ex&cPath=16_35

Get the 'with GROOVED' ones and one of each.
To bring up a post from last September...Has anyone had any luck with the Clarke petcocks on their Acerbis tank? I ordered a new Acerbis tank awhile back along with two Clarke 90 degree WITH GROOVE petcocks and they are leaking on me.

I have no experience with an Acerbis tank, but the petcock mounting surface is slightly dished out, so much so that I can see the o-ring (both the Clarke and Acerbis petcocks). Is that normal?

Any info?
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:30 PM   #14115
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frickenmotarded View Post
Guy's my BRP is fairly new to me so I need someone's ear that knows these things. I've had a ton of bikes and both my ATC250sx's have kinda sounded like this, but I want to check and makes sure I'm not about to loose a rod bearing. Some have referred the the XRR as have a marble in a can sound much like a diesel. I have the stock plastic skid on, fresh oil its fully up to temp. starting around 3500 rpm at light load it makes the sound and then becomes indistinguishable about 4200ish.


and also

you'll hear me say "right there" that's the noise in question but its audible longer on the first video. I'm going to recheck the valves but i'm fairly certain they are within spec and this doesn't sound like valve noise to me anyway. Please weigh and and let me know what you think. I have a tendency to over analyze things but I would rather fix it now before it does major damage later if so. Thanks in advance!

hard to say from the sound quality , but check the valve clearances again and the water pump also .
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