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Old 09-26-2012, 04:07 PM   #14671
sintax
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: So.Cal
Oddometer: 495
Anyone have a upper fork tube thats straight that they'd want to sell?

Would buy the whole assembly if needed.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:08 PM   #14672
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Didn't like the MT21 rear. Never used the front.

After running another Pirreli after the MT21, I will no longer run any more P tires.
Im the same way, mt21 didn't give the bite I wanted, front was downright scary on anything that had a sidehill. I run the Maxis Des IT on the front and I jump between a 606 and Dez IT on the back, Dez IT is my pref, durable tire with pretty good bite. None of them seen to last me very long.

Here's some more XRR riding from last weekend.

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Old 09-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #14673
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Im the same way, mt21 didn't give the bite I wanted, front was downright scary on anything that had a sidehill. I run the Maxis Des IT on the front and I jump between a 606 and Dez IT on the back, Dez IT is my pref, durable tire with pretty good bite. None of them seen to last me very long.
Interesting on the Mt21 i've heard good things about them. I was going to try them next round. I've used a Desert IT front, and found it to wash out like crazy. And worst of all it seemed to do it without warning. I LOVE the desert IT rear though, Its the only tire i've found that will last coupled to my KX500 powered bike. That bike will chew and spit lugs like crazy.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:19 PM   #14674
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Anyone have a upper fork tube thats straight that they'd want to sell?

Would buy the whole assembly if needed.


There is a set of forks for sale in the flea market here.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:21 PM   #14675
tennessee thumper
now in Mt. View, AR
 
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Location: Arkansas Ozarks
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Coolant

Replaced my thermostat and lost about 2-3 cups of coolant in the process.

I am without my service manual and wanted to double check....

Just add the couple cups I lost taking out the thermo back into the top of the radiator, not the res at the bottom of the engine.

Cheers
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:26 PM   #14676
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
Replaced my thermostat and lost about 2-3 cups of coolant in the process.

I am without my service manual and wanted to double check....

Just add the couple cups I lost taking out the thermo back into the top of the radiator, not the res at the bottom of the engine.

Cheers

Add it to the radiator, but make sure the coolant overflow bottle is filled between the "upper" and "lower" marks
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:30 PM   #14677
tennessee thumper
now in Mt. View, AR
 
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Cheers and thanks for the heads up on that.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:46 PM   #14678
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphyDo View Post
Add it to the radiator, but make sure the coolant overflow bottle is filled between the "upper" and "lower" marks
On this topic, is there any surefire way to get all of the air out of the engine? I know the FSM says just to start it, let it idle a few min, and then rev it a few times. Seems pretty simple. My 2strokes have a nice screw at the top of the head and let the air bleed.

This reminds me I need to install a thermostat in mine, its currently empty.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:31 PM   #14679
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
On this topic, is there any surefire way to get all of the air out of the engine? I know the FSM says just to start it, let it idle a few min, and then rev it a few times. Seems pretty simple. My 2strokes have a nice screw at the top of the head and let the air bleed.

This reminds me I need to install a thermostat in mine, its currently empty.

I fill it up to the top of the rad and let it "settle. Fill it up again, again.....however many times it takes for it to stop taking coolant. Once that is done, start it up for a few minutes to circulate, shut it off and then squeeze the lower rad hose coming from the water pump a few times. "Burp" it, like a baby. Never had any issues doing it this way. That is the way I'd burp my racecare motors too. Always worked for me.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:21 PM   #14680
Sutherngintelmen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
If it was a 650 I would say change the plug, But its not, so I won't...
Good point
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:03 PM   #14681
jwalters
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Hi Guys,
Quick question, I am ready to install my Acerbis 6.3 gallon tank. It came with some hardware and no instructions, no big deal, I pretty much figure out where things need to go. One of the tank braces came with a nut welder on crooked but again, no big deal, because I had Hodakaguy's Tank Brace. However, before I do something that might have irreversible consequences I thought I would check with ya'll first.

I received 4 black orings all the same size outter diameter, but they varied noticeably in thickness. Not enough to think they are used for different parts, but they are definitely different thicknesses. I am using one on each petcock as shown below, but I'm wondering why they would have included 4 orings? Used on other bikes perhaps?


Also, pictured below, the four bolts (2 per petcock) that hold the petcock on to the tank appear to not have any gasket. Do these tanks leak from these 4 screws? Anyone place smaller diameter rubber orings on these screws?

Thanks for the advise. Does this look right?



Another angle
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:54 PM   #14682
BuRPsa
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I am baffled (and disgusted too!) to see selftapping screws holding a petcock in a plastic tank!!?? My Clarke (for a 230F) had inserts in them, and inserts will not leak. Did you have to drill your own pilot holes for these screws?
Help the oke out boys, this looks suspect!
In any case I'd use the thicker two of the orings, and go easy on the screws if they are meant to be like that.


Babuja,
look South bro, all you need is available here. Specify 'Pages from South Africa' in Google and you'll find a plethora of suppliers who can & will help you. Yeah, noone will speak your latin lingo but English is fine, so go there. Should be quicker too, and prices here are good.
Mitas CO2's are fine tyres btw, amazing grip, and they last too.


For bleeding the cooling system I drill a small hole (3mm dia) into the rim of the thermostat. This hole also increases the flow with a shut thermostat which is a good thing, marginally cooler running if you will, but any air in there will find 'top' super quick. The thermostats (oem & aftermarket) lack in this department, hence my drilled hole.
After a new filling just let it lean on the sidestand and idle it for some minutes, with removed rad-cap. Top-up to the brim, close off, fill tank to inbetween lines, and off you go, all's fine.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:03 AM   #14683
jwalters
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Ya, it doesn't seem right. The holes were pre-drilled. The only four bolts that came in the kit were the self tapping screws shown. I've installed a lot of tanks, but the hardware that came with this one sucks. I might buy some after-after market petcocks for the tank (which is good quality).

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
I am baffled (and disgusted too!) to see selftapping screws holding a petcock in a plastic tank!!?? My Clarke (for a 230F) had inserts in them, and inserts will not leak. Did you have to drill your own pilot holes for these screws?
Help the oke out boys, this looks suspect!
In any case I'd use the thicker two of the orings, and go easy on the screws if they are meant to be like that.
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jwalters screwed with this post 09-27-2012 at 12:12 AM
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:22 AM   #14684
BigStick
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Location: Golden, Colorado
Oddometer: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi Guys,
Quick question, I am ready to install my Acerbis 6.3 gallon tank. It came with some hardware and no instructions, no big deal, I pretty much figure out where things need to go. One of the tank braces came with a nut welder on crooked but again, no big deal, because I had Hodakaguy's Tank Brace. However, before I do something that might have irreversible consequences I thought I would check with ya'll first.

I received 4 black orings all the same size outter diameter, but they varied noticeably in thickness. Not enough to think they are used for different parts, but they are definitely different thicknesses. I am using one on each petcock as shown below, but I'm wondering why they would have included 4 orings? Used on other bikes perhaps?


Also, pictured below, the four bolts (2 per petcock) that hold the petcock on to the tank appear to not have any gasket. Do these tanks leak from these 4 screws? Anyone place smaller diameter rubber orings on these screws?

Thanks for the advise. Does this look right?
You've got the right idea on the assembly. Don't worry about sealing the screws. They don't penetrate into the fuel area. They screw into plastic bosses molded into the tank. It seems a bit hokey, but works fine even for long term.

I've uploaded the instructions to: http://www.balaun.ws/advrider/Acerbi...structions.pdf

I hope that helps!

-'Stick!
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:23 AM   #14685
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
For bleeding the cooling system I drill a small hole (3mm dia) into the rim of the thermostat. This hole also increases the flow with a shut thermostat which is a good thing, marginally cooler running if you will, but any air in there will find 'top' super quick. The thermostats (oem & aftermarket) lack in this department, hence my drilled hole.
After a new filling just let it lean on the sidestand and idle it for some minutes, with removed rad-cap. Top-up to the brim, close off, fill tank to inbetween lines, and off you go, all's fine.

That hole is present on OEM Honda thermostats, or at least it is there on US models. I did the "mid 80's small GM car" thermostat on mine where you have to drill a small hole. The 'stat was like $4 compared to $15+ for an aftermarket. The 'stat I used was a Stant 185*.
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