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Old 10-02-2012, 04:17 PM   #14746
CeeBee
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Little Town north of Houston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 415MC View Post
Yes a 16t works. I bought mine from Sprocket Specialist. I used it with the stock chain and a 48t rear. 16-48 is same ratio as a 15-45---very good dual sport gear ratio.
Thanks 415MC,
Ijust called them and they said there on 4 week back order and call back later- no waiting list. Glad to know they are still available. THANKS

Later, Chuck
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:42 PM   #14747
jesusgatos
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Location: on the road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I think you will be dissapointed. It is very hard to find a setup where you only change the CS and don't also have problems with chain length. Let us know what works.
14/48 and 16/45 works great! 16T countershaft sprocket will also work with a case saver if you clearance it. There's not much left, but it's better than nothing.
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:21 PM   #14748
Sean-0
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Location: Mumblebum Northern NSW
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The 16works well its a standard. Setup for Australian spec bikes ..I run a 16 45 for long haul and run a 48 rear at times with a 16 front or you could go a 15 45 for a good combo or run the 48 with either. A 16 or a 15 all this works with a 110 link chain as for a case saver the stock saver. On the aus spec bikes will fit a 16 tooth cs sprocket ..with 16 /45 I can sit on 70mph all day and the bike loves it at about 5000 rpm

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Old 10-02-2012, 06:21 PM   #14749
jesusgatos
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uh huh, cruising all day long at 80mph and a stock engine will also push +110mph with that gearing too.
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:51 PM   #14750
galland1
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Location: S.W., MI
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She's starting to come together. Just waiting on a few more bits. The Unabikers are a bit of a bioch to install. Have the right tools to do this job or you will swear alot..:





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Old 10-02-2012, 08:01 PM   #14751
RZRob
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Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
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Look again

Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Yeah it will only backfire once after maybe like 15 min of kickstarting. The spark plug is known to be good. This was a 2-5 kick start bike cold with no choke before I tried to "improve" it. Yesterday was hot and I tried to kick it many times after tinkering with it. I got super sweaty and lost so much water weight somebody asked me if I recently lost weight.
Consider what you did - and what you didn't. Starting the bike relies solely on the pilot circuit. I'd be seriously checking that again. Remember the atomizer holes. Also, pull the main and the emulsion tube under it and again, check those atomizer holes. Confirm the petcock is FLOWING before you go anywhere. Gas that sits turns to goo. I just got done with a new XR that sat for 10 years and the petcock was beyond repair and the carb was sketchy, but patience prevailed. Finally, if you don't follow the starting procedures - no gas - it won't start.

Also, if you messed with the float, take a common-sense look at the valve/float level.Make sure the valve actually opens.

RZ Rob
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:41 PM   #14752
woodsxr
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Location: Hollister, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Yeah it will only backfire once after maybe like 15 min of kickstarting. The spark plug is known to be good. This was a 2-5 kick start bike cold with no choke before I tried to "improve" it. Yesterday was hot and I tried to kick it many times after tinkering with it. I got super sweaty and lost so much water weight somebody asked me if I recently lost weight.
How do you try to start it?

You should clear the cylinder. Open the compression release and open the throttle wide open. kick the engine over 5 to 7 times. Close everyhting. find just past TDC and kick. the engine should try to start even if it has been flooded. May have to play with the choke if it doesn't start
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:02 PM   #14753
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RZRob View Post
Consider what you did - and what you didn't. Starting the bike relies solely on the pilot circuit. I'd be seriously checking that again. Remember the atomizer holes. Also, pull the main and the emulsion tube under it and again, check those atomizer holes. Confirm the petcock is FLOWING before you go anywhere. Gas that sits turns to goo. I just got done with a new XR that sat for 10 years and the petcock was beyond repair and the carb was sketchy, but patience prevailed. Finally, if you don't follow the starting procedures - no gas - it won't start.

Also, if you messed with the float, take a common-sense look at the valve/float level.Make sure the valve actually opens.

RZ Rob
I have tried every variation of the start procedure. Each time I tried kicking 7-8 times with the throttle wide open and compression open first. I have tried choke, half and no choke. Is it possible if the float is too low the bike would not start? I have checked the petcock fuel flows out no problem. Also the bowl is getting fuel. Here is how much got out of it after shutting off the petcock and loosening the drain screw. http://i.imgur.com/nqM1o.jpg

I pulled the plug, it looked fairly normal the bike was running lean before hand which was expected. The threads looked slightly wet but the middle was bone dry and didn't look fouled. Also got a blue spark from it when kicking, so spark is working. I can smell gas in the exhaust.

I sprayed carb cleaner into the carb inlet and only got a single backfire. The bike didn't attempt to start or anything.
Also is there any sort of spec for the idle stop?

EDIT: The bike has not been sitting really. I was riding it up until I took the carb apart. The carb was 100% clean inside and didn't have any varnish inside.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:57 PM   #14754
tijuana
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oh yeah and flip the ignition to the start position too.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #14755
mattymurn
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bike not starting

Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
I have tried every variation of the start procedure. Each time I tried kicking 7-8 times with the throttle wide open and compression open first. I have tried choke, half and no choke. Is it possible if the float is too low the bike would not start? I have checked the petcock fuel flows out no problem. Also the bowl is getting fuel. Here is how much got out of it after shutting off the petcock and loosening the drain screw. http://i.imgur.com/nqM1o.jpg

I pulled the plug, it looked fairly normal the bike was running lean before hand which was expected. The threads looked slightly wet but the middle was bone dry and didn't look fouled. Also got a blue spark from it when kicking, so spark is working. I can smell gas in the exhaust.

I sprayed carb cleaner into the carb inlet and only got a single backfire. The bike didn't attempt to start or anything.
Also is there any sort of spec for the idle stop?

EDIT: The bike has not been sitting really. I was riding it up until I took the carb apart. The carb was 100% clean inside and didn't have any varnish inside.
Ok this is similar to my experience I had with my XRR this spring. I rode it one day and it was fine, the next day it would not start only backfire (reallly loud every once in a while). I must have kicked that thing 1000 times. Long story short you need 4 things to run the engine, fuel, air, spark, and compression. I had all but one (compression). Turns out my intake valves were worn down to knife edges, I still had lash but I guess there was not enough compression to start the engine. I did use a compression tester but the tests were a bit inconclusive. A leak down would tell you for sure. I took the top end apart and had the valve seats reground and had kibblewhite valves put in. When I put it back together the bike started first kick.

I hope this is not your issue , but taking the top end apart was not a big deal, a bit costly depending on what you do, ( I put new rings in at the same time and had the cylinder diamond honed)

Matthew
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:28 AM   #14756
juri.tabain
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Going RTW
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My crank is still mocked up... The Germans seem to wreck their rods pretty often and push me towards buying a carillo. What would you guys go for? Just a complete OEM crankshaft+rod or the former plus a carillo (moneymoneymoney... ).


XR650R_K200642_KuWe_3 von jnk@tabain.eu auf Flickr

juri.tabain screwed with this post 10-03-2012 at 09:16 AM Reason: typo
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:25 AM   #14757
crypto666
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When I researched it a little over a year ago, I concluded the Falicon rod was for me, despite the $$$$.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MuskyMoose View Post
My crank is still mocked up... The Germans seem to wreck their rods pretty often and push me towards buying a carillo. What would you guys go for? Just a complete OEM crankshaft+rod or the former plus a carillo (moneymoneymoney... ).


XR650R_K200642_KuWe_3 von jnk@tabain.eu auf Flickr
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:47 AM   #14758
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattymurn View Post
Ok this is similar to my experience I had with my XRR this spring. I rode it one day and it was fine, the next day it would not start only backfire (reallly loud every once in a while). I must have kicked that thing 1000 times. Long story short you need 4 things to run the engine, fuel, air, spark, and compression. I had all but one (compression). Turns out my intake valves were worn down to knife edges, I still had lash but I guess there was not enough compression to start the engine. I did use a compression tester but the tests were a bit inconclusive. A leak down would tell you for sure. I took the top end apart and had the valve seats reground and had kibblewhite valves put in. When I put it back together the bike started first kick.

I hope this is not your issue , but taking the top end apart was not a big deal, a bit costly depending on what you do, ( I put new rings in at the same time and had the cylinder diamond honed)

Matthew
Last night I triple checked the valves insuring I was checking the clearances on TDC-C. Stuck my finger in the spark plug hole to feel the compression. Watched the intake valves come back up, there was a little wiggle room with the rockers etc. They all seem to be within spec. I tried also raising the float level a bit. I am just using a ruler and eyeballing so its not the best method. I raised it a few MM, looks to be around 15mm. I know this is not spec, I just wanted to change a little at a time. I also triple checked the pilot/main jets. Brand new and no clogs or anything. Threw it back together and it seems to backfire slightly more but still wont start or sputter.

I mean the engine was running fine before hand, but I guess I can buy a compression gauge. Right now I am grasping at straws. It has to be carb related, but I am still in the dark. I wish I didn't touch the valves. Now I will always have to wonder. For now on I am only changing one thing at a time on a kick start motorcycle. Its way too annoying kicking hundred of times, haha.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:56 AM   #14759
larryboy
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medisyn,

How are you finding TDC?

Plug out, 5th gear, rotate tire backwards to keep it out of the auto decomp until TDC.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:57 AM   #14760
Cpt. Ron
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As others have stated, it could be a deeper issue. I've certainly observed that tight valves can cause hard starting. Or worse, worn valves. The last time I couldn't clear up the issue with a proper valve adjustment, I found I needed a top end job.

Have you tried push starting it? Usually, once it's running, it should run OK (even with a needed valve job).
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