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Old 10-03-2012, 02:54 PM   #14761
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
Oddometer: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
medisyn,

How are you finding TDC?

Plug out, 5th gear, rotate tire backwards to keep it out of the auto decomp until TDC.
I pull the stator cover and spark plug off, then turn the crank anti/counter clockwise watching the intake valves to insure they have gone up. confirming compression by putting my finger in the plug hole and aligning the notch with the T mark. I then check if I can move the rockers slightly. This is what the service manual calls for. I dont have a stand yet, thats why I did not use the other method.
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:58 PM   #14762
medisyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
As others have stated, it could be a deeper issue. I've certainly observed that tight valves can cause hard starting. Or worse, worn valves. The last time I couldn't clear up the issue with a proper valve adjustment, I found I needed a top end job.

Have you tried push starting it? Usually, once it's running, it should run OK (even with a needed valve job).
When I checked the valves they were all a bit tight. I loosened them up to .006in (insuring a .007 almost fits and a .008 cannot) intake and .008in (a .009in is a tight fit and .010in does not.) on the exhaust.

I will try a push start, need to get a buddy to come over. I don't have a truck so I cant roll it down a hill.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:23 PM   #14763
medisyn
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I will note that I do hear a click once I am getting close to TDC-C. Is this the auto decompress kicking in and messing up my measurements? How "loose" should the rockers feel? Mine only move slightly.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:12 PM   #14764
RalphyDo
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Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 308
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuskyMoose View Post
My crank is still mocked up... The Germans seem to wreck their rods pretty often and push me towards buying a carillo. What would you guys go for? Just a complete OEM crankshaft+rod or the former plus a carillo (moneymoneymoney... ).


XR650R_K200642_KuWe_3 von jnk@tabain.eu auf Flickr


There was a Carillo in the flea market here for $200. I dont know if it is still there.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:10 PM   #14765
jwalters
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Location: Little Marais, MN
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Hi Guys,
Quick question. I'm putting on new chain and sprockets on my XRR. I noticed the front counter shaft sprocket has some play after the #8 bolts are snugged down on the CS retaining plate. Is this normal? It's not excessive slop, but I'd guess it's almost 1mm of play. Never seen it on my other bikes...
Thanks!
-jw
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:38 PM   #14766
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi Guys,
Quick question. I'm putting on new chain and sprockets on my XRR. I noticed the front counter shaft sprocket has some play after the #8 bolts are snugged down on the CS retaining plate. Is this normal? It's not excessive slop, but I'd guess it's almost 1mm of play. Never seen it on my other bikes...
Thanks!
-jw


Yeah, that is normal. 1mm sounds like a bit much. Did you check the splines on the counter shaft to see if there was excessive wear?
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:27 PM   #14767
jwalters
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Ya, the splines look good. I don't think it's a full millimeter, I meant to say it was no more than a millimeter. I can feel it moving around on me when I move it side to side. thanks for the input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphyDo View Post
Yeah, that is normal. 1mm sounds like a bit much. Did you check the splines on the counter shaft to see if there was excessive wear?
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:38 PM   #14768
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Ya, the splines look good. I don't think it's a full millimeter, I meant to say it was no more than a millimeter. I can feel it moving around on me when I move it side to side. thanks for the input.


Yep, it'll be fine. The sprocket is made to float.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:48 PM   #14769
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphyDo View Post
Yep, it'll be fine. The sprocket is made to float.
Yup.

That feeling when you jump back on your 650R after riding your 600R for two weeks. Feels like a raped ape bastard demon from hell (yes, that's the best I can describe it). And feels light as hell, even though it's heavier. Love this damn bike.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:01 PM   #14770
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Ya, the splines look good. I don't think it's a full millimeter, I meant to say it was no more than a millimeter. I can feel it moving around on me when I move it side to side. thanks for the input.

The retainer can wear, and some sprockets are tighter than others. Don't run Primary Drive. I normally use them, but find them too sloppy on the XRR. I've stopped using them in favour of other cheap brands like JT, etc.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:38 PM   #14771
MatttheHatt
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
I mean the engine was running fine before hand, but I guess I can buy a compression gauge. Right now I am grasping at straws. It has to be carb related, but I am still in the dark. I wish I didn't touch the valves. Now I will always have to wonder. For now on I am only changing one thing at a time on a kick start motorcycle. Its way too annoying kicking hundred of times, haha.
Sometimes I'll turn my idle down a bit too much, it runs fine, but it's not enough gas to re-start. I've spent 20 minutes in the Texas heat kicking my pig over until I remember I messed with the idle knob. I turn it up a half-turn and it starts right up.

It's backfiring, which suggests to me it is getting spark, compression and a little fuel, I think it may just need a bit more gas...
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:51 PM   #14772
medisyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatttheHatt View Post
Sometimes I'll turn my idle down a bit too much, it runs fine, but it's not enough gas to re-start. I've spent 20 minutes in the Texas heat kicking my pig over until I remember I messed with the idle knob. I turn it up a half-turn and it starts right up.

It's backfiring, which suggests to me it is getting spark, compression and a little fuel, I think it may just need a bit more gas...
The throttle stop or the pilot screw? I have no idea how to set the throttle stop right on a bike I cant get started. Also I have tried half turn out all the way up to 4.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:57 AM   #14773
BuRPsa
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Medisyn,

first: to find TDC take out plug + the small cover in the stator cover. Trun the flywheel forward (anticlockwise) and forward only, until the markers show. Do not for a millimeter turn back (clockwise) as this will engage the decomp system and will lift an exhaust valve. Check valveplay at tdc.
second: measure the compression on your bike, with a meter. Beg, steal or borrow a gauge but do this. If you get a reading below say 8 then the valves are leaking.
third: get a new plug. A light smear of anti-seize on the thread, check gap & put it in.
fourth: take carb off bike. Set mixture-screw to 1.5 full turns (from closed, and don't close it 'hard' ever!), floatlevel to 18mm or thereabouts (15 is too low ergo a too high fuel level), and with the cables off turn the slide-stopper down until the slide stops. Then turn it up again say 3 or 4 full turns and leave it at that - you should see a gap under the slide, around a millimeter. Reassemble on bike, and leave enough slack in the cables.

Kick as follows: with decomp pulled in cycle the kicker say 4 strokes withOUT turning the throttle (but maybe once or twice with choke on, then off again), and keep yet mitt off the handle - NO throttle! Release the decomp and kick until it goes 'hard' and stops. Pull decomp and ease the kicker and inch further down. Release decomp, bring kicker up, breath in deep... and whack kicker down (again without touching the throttle!).
Be greeted with the bark you're after!!

Let it idle, ride it warm-enough, park it on your bikestand, run a hosepipe over a radiator, and adjust first the mixture screw to 'best' (highest revs) around the 1.5 full turn, and then set the idle revs by adjusting the slide stopper screw.
Repeat these steps (both!) until it purrs.
Switch off bike, turn off water, have a coffee (ie wait 5 mins).
Start the bike as per above, without turning the throttle ever!
It should start first kick, but if it won't start your stopper screw is set too low - so don't fuck with the mixture screw.
Repeat.

Remember that it may need upping the slide stopper when cold, in the morning - no biggie but remember it, otherwise you'll grow a developed calf plus a bad temper. Once it gets warm you can ease down the stopper screw again. Warm starting is a single kick (after cycling it 2 times) every time!

BuRPsa screwed with this post 10-04-2012 at 01:10 AM
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:55 AM   #14774
atreiou
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Verona - Italy
Oddometer: 61
tried it yesterday evening, only for 1 centimeter (about 1/3 inch) the Clarke tank don't fit with spal fan mounted on the right radiator


Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
I have a Clarke 4.3 and Acerbis. Both tanks will.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:23 AM   #14775
tannerc
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so....close....

Quote:
Originally Posted by atreiou View Post
tried it yesterday evening, only for 1 centimeter (about 1/3 inch) the Clarke tank don't fit with spal fan mounted on the right radiator
I can verify that. I have a SPAL and a set of Unibiker rad guards, the Clarke does not fit. I'm thinking there might be the possibility of heating it up and forming it a bit to make it fit. Moving the fan is out of the question with the Unibiker guards.
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