XR650R Thread!

[juri.tabain]

My crank is still mocked up... The Germans seem to wreck their rods pretty often and push me towards buying a carillo. What would you guys go for? Just a complete OEM crankshaft+rod or the former plus a carillo (moneymoneymoney... ).


XR650R_K200642_KuWe_3 von jnk@tabain.eu auf Flickr

[crypto666]

When I researched it a little over a year ago, I concluded the Falicon rod was for me, despite the $$$$.

Originally Posted by MuskyMoose

My crank is still mocked up... The Germans seem to wreck their rods pretty often and push me towards buying a carillo. What would you guys go for? Just a complete OEM crankshaft+rod or the former plus a carillo (moneymoneymoney... ).


XR650R_K200642_KuWe_3 von jnk@tabain.eu auf Flickr

[medisyn]

Originally Posted by mattymurn

Ok this is similar to my experience I had with my XRR this spring. I rode it one day and it was fine, the next day it would not start only backfire (reallly loud every once in a while). I must have kicked that thing 1000 times. Long story short you need 4 things to run the engine, fuel, air, spark, and compression. I had all but one (compression). Turns out my intake valves were worn down to knife edges, I still had lash but I guess there was not enough compression to start the engine. I did use a compression tester but the tests were a bit inconclusive. A leak down would tell you for sure. I took the top end apart and had the valve seats reground and had kibblewhite valves put in. When I put it back together the bike started first kick.

I hope this is not your issue , but taking the top end apart was not a big deal, a bit costly depending on what you do, ( I put new rings in at the same time and had the cylinder diamond honed)

Matthew

Last night I triple checked the valves insuring I was checking the clearances on TDC-C. Stuck my finger in the spark plug hole to feel the compression. Watched the intake valves come back up, there was a little wiggle room with the rockers etc. They all seem to be within spec. I tried also raising the float level a bit. I am just using a ruler and eyeballing so its not the best method. I raised it a few MM, looks to be around 15mm. I know this is not spec, I just wanted to change a little at a time. I also triple checked the pilot/main jets. Brand new and no clogs or anything. Threw it back together and it seems to backfire slightly more but still wont start or sputter.

I mean the engine was running fine before hand, but I guess I can buy a compression gauge. Right now I am grasping at straws. It has to be carb related, but I am still in the dark. I wish I didn't touch the valves. Now I will always have to wonder. For now on I am only changing one thing at a time on a kick start motorcycle. Its way too annoying kicking hundred of times, haha.

[larryboy]

medisyn,

How are you finding TDC?

Plug out, 5th gear, rotate tire backwards to keep it out of the auto decomp until TDC.

[Cpt. Ron]

As others have stated, it could be a deeper issue. I've certainly observed that tight valves can cause hard starting. Or worse, worn valves. The last time I couldn't clear up the issue with a proper valve adjustment, I found I needed a top end job.

Have you tried push starting it? Usually, once it's running, it should run OK (even with a needed valve job).

[medisyn]

Originally Posted by larryboy

medisyn,

How are you finding TDC?

Plug out, 5th gear, rotate tire backwards to keep it out of the auto decomp until TDC.

I pull the stator cover and spark plug off, then turn the crank anti/counter clockwise watching the intake valves to insure they have gone up. confirming compression by putting my finger in the plug hole and aligning the notch with the T mark. I then check if I can move the rockers slightly. This is what the service manual calls for. I dont have a stand yet, thats why I did not use the other method.

[medisyn]

Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron

As others have stated, it could be a deeper issue. I've certainly observed that tight valves can cause hard starting. Or worse, worn valves. The last time I couldn't clear up the issue with a proper valve adjustment, I found I needed a top end job.

Have you tried push starting it? Usually, once it's running, it should run OK (even with a needed valve job).

When I checked the valves they were all a bit tight. I loosened them up to .006in (insuring a .007 almost fits and a .008 cannot) intake and .008in (a .009in is a tight fit and .010in does not.) on the exhaust.

I will try a push start, need to get a buddy to come over. I don't have a truck so I cant roll it down a hill.

[medisyn]

I will note that I do hear a click once I am getting close to TDC-C. Is this the auto decompress kicking in and messing up my measurements? How "loose" should the rockers feel? Mine only move slightly.

[RalphyDo]

Originally Posted by MuskyMoose

My crank is still mocked up... The Germans seem to wreck their rods pretty often and push me towards buying a carillo. What would you guys go for? Just a complete OEM crankshaft+rod or the former plus a carillo (moneymoneymoney... ).


XR650R_K200642_KuWe_3 von jnk@tabain.eu auf Flickr

There was a Carillo in the flea market here for $200. I dont know if it is still there.

[jwalters]

Hi Guys,
Quick question. I'm putting on new chain and sprockets on my XRR. I noticed the front counter shaft sprocket has some play after the #8 bolts are snugged down on the CS retaining plate. Is this normal? It's not excessive slop, but I'd guess it's almost 1mm of play. Never seen it on my other bikes...
Thanks!
-jw

[RalphyDo]

Originally Posted by jwalters

Hi Guys,
Quick question. I'm putting on new chain and sprockets on my XRR. I noticed the front counter shaft sprocket has some play after the #8 bolts are snugged down on the CS retaining plate. Is this normal? It's not excessive slop, but I'd guess it's almost 1mm of play. Never seen it on my other bikes...
Thanks!
-jw

Yeah, that is normal. 1mm sounds like a bit much. Did you check the splines on the counter shaft to see if there was excessive wear?

[jwalters]

Ya, the splines look good. I don't think it's a full millimeter, I meant to say it was no more than a millimeter. I can feel it moving around on me when I move it side to side. thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by RalphyDo

Yeah, that is normal. 1mm sounds like a bit much. Did you check the splines on the counter shaft to see if there was excessive wear?

[RalphyDo]

Originally Posted by jwalters

Ya, the splines look good. I don't think it's a full millimeter, I meant to say it was no more than a millimeter. I can feel it moving around on me when I move it side to side. thanks for the input.

Yep, it'll be fine. The sprocket is made to float.

[bamfslap]

Originally Posted by RalphyDo

Yep, it'll be fine. The sprocket is made to float.

Yup.

That feeling when you jump back on your 650R after riding your 600R for two weeks. Feels like a raped ape bastard demon from hell (yes, that's the best I can describe it). And feels light as hell, even though it's heavier. Love this damn bike.

[Shibby!]

Originally Posted by jwalters

Ya, the splines look good. I don't think it's a full millimeter, I meant to say it was no more than a millimeter. I can feel it moving around on me when I move it side to side. thanks for the input.

The retainer can wear, and some sprockets are tighter than others. Don't run Primary Drive. I normally use them, but find them too sloppy on the XRR. I've stopped using them in favour of other cheap brands like JT, etc.