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Old 10-03-2012, 08:38 PM   #14776
MatttheHatt
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
I mean the engine was running fine before hand, but I guess I can buy a compression gauge. Right now I am grasping at straws. It has to be carb related, but I am still in the dark. I wish I didn't touch the valves. Now I will always have to wonder. For now on I am only changing one thing at a time on a kick start motorcycle. Its way too annoying kicking hundred of times, haha.
Sometimes I'll turn my idle down a bit too much, it runs fine, but it's not enough gas to re-start. I've spent 20 minutes in the Texas heat kicking my pig over until I remember I messed with the idle knob. I turn it up a half-turn and it starts right up.

It's backfiring, which suggests to me it is getting spark, compression and a little fuel, I think it may just need a bit more gas...
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:51 PM   #14777
medisyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatttheHatt View Post
Sometimes I'll turn my idle down a bit too much, it runs fine, but it's not enough gas to re-start. I've spent 20 minutes in the Texas heat kicking my pig over until I remember I messed with the idle knob. I turn it up a half-turn and it starts right up.

It's backfiring, which suggests to me it is getting spark, compression and a little fuel, I think it may just need a bit more gas...
The throttle stop or the pilot screw? I have no idea how to set the throttle stop right on a bike I cant get started. Also I have tried half turn out all the way up to 4.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:57 PM   #14778
BuRPsa
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Medisyn,

first: to find TDC take out plug + the small cover in the stator cover. Trun the flywheel forward (anticlockwise) and forward only, until the markers show. Do not for a millimeter turn back (clockwise) as this will engage the decomp system and will lift an exhaust valve. Check valveplay at tdc.
second: measure the compression on your bike, with a meter. Beg, steal or borrow a gauge but do this. If you get a reading below say 8 then the valves are leaking.
third: get a new plug. A light smear of anti-seize on the thread, check gap & put it in.
fourth: take carb off bike. Set mixture-screw to 1.5 full turns (from closed, and don't close it 'hard' ever!), floatlevel to 18mm or thereabouts (15 is too low ergo a too high fuel level), and with the cables off turn the slide-stopper down until the slide stops. Then turn it up again say 3 or 4 full turns and leave it at that - you should see a gap under the slide, around a millimeter. Reassemble on bike, and leave enough slack in the cables.

Kick as follows: with decomp pulled in cycle the kicker say 4 strokes withOUT turning the throttle (but maybe once or twice with choke on, then off again), and keep yet mitt off the handle - NO throttle! Release the decomp and kick until it goes 'hard' and stops. Pull decomp and ease the kicker and inch further down. Release decomp, bring kicker up, breath in deep... and whack kicker down (again without touching the throttle!).
Be greeted with the bark you're after!!

Let it idle, ride it warm-enough, park it on your bikestand, run a hosepipe over a radiator, and adjust first the mixture screw to 'best' (highest revs) around the 1.5 full turn, and then set the idle revs by adjusting the slide stopper screw.
Repeat these steps (both!) until it purrs.
Switch off bike, turn off water, have a coffee (ie wait 5 mins).
Start the bike as per above, without turning the throttle ever!
It should start first kick, but if it won't start your stopper screw is set too low - so don't fuck with the mixture screw.
Repeat.

Remember that it may need upping the slide stopper when cold, in the morning - no biggie but remember it, otherwise you'll grow a developed calf plus a bad temper. Once it gets warm you can ease down the stopper screw again. Warm starting is a single kick (after cycling it 2 times) every time!

BuRPsa screwed with this post 10-04-2012 at 12:10 AM
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:55 AM   #14779
atreiou
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tried it yesterday evening, only for 1 centimeter (about 1/3 inch) the Clarke tank don't fit with spal fan mounted on the right radiator


Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
I have a Clarke 4.3 and Acerbis. Both tanks will.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:23 AM   #14780
tannerc
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so....close....

Quote:
Originally Posted by atreiou View Post
tried it yesterday evening, only for 1 centimeter (about 1/3 inch) the Clarke tank don't fit with spal fan mounted on the right radiator
I can verify that. I have a SPAL and a set of Unibiker rad guards, the Clarke does not fit. I'm thinking there might be the possibility of heating it up and forming it a bit to make it fit. Moving the fan is out of the question with the Unibiker guards.
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:19 AM   #14781
atreiou
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I'm not sure that I'll do that... the plastic thickness seems a little lower than the stock tank... uhmm

ora maybe I can try to put the fan in a lower position on the rad..


Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
I can verify that. I have a SPAL and a set of Unibiker rad guards, the Clarke does not fit. I'm thinking there might be the possibility of heating it up and forming it a bit to make it fit. Moving the fan is out of the question with the Unibiker guards.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:00 AM   #14782
Renazco
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Anybody interested in an e-start for the XR650R, if so I need at least a half dozen people to get the Joe Racer e-start back in production.
With the new Lithium ION batteries available now it will also help reduce a lot of the weight. PM me if interested.






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Old 10-04-2012, 06:05 AM   #14783
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renazco View Post
Anybody interested in an e-start for the XR650R, if so I need at least a half dozen people to get the Joe Racer e-start back in production.
With the new Lithium ION batteries available now it will also help reduce a lot of the weight. PM me if interested.






.
How much? 500?
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:33 AM   #14784
tijuana
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what do you think it will weigh? How much?
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:43 AM   #14785
woodsxr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
When I checked the valves they were all a bit tight. I loosened them up to .006in (insuring a .007 almost fits and a .008 cannot) intake and .008in (a .009in is a tight fit and .010in does not.) on the exhaust.

I will try a push start, need to get a buddy to come over. I don't have a truck so I cant roll it down a hill.
When you try to start the bike, Can you kick the starter from TDC without going just past TDC?

I am 220 lbs and if I try to start at TDC I can stand on the starter and it may barely move.
I would say if you have the same issue, you should have good compression.

Any chance your header is full of fuel or water?

Try starting in 3rd gear. First is too tall. Second may work if you use the compression release to get the engine spinning. May have to do the same in 3rd.
Good luck
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:43 AM   #14786
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atreiou View Post
tried it yesterday evening, only for 1 centimeter (about 1/3 inch) the Clarke tank don't fit with spal fan mounted on the right radiator

Clarke 4.3?

Must depend where you have your fan mounetd because both myself, and my buddy (using my 4.3 Clarke) easily fit the SPAL fan behind the right rad.

Our fan is mounted between the emissions tabs on the back of the fan. I could dig up a picture with enough searching.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:50 AM   #14787
woodsxr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renazco View Post
Anybody interested in an e-start for the XR650R, if so I need at least a half dozen people to get the Joe Racer e-start back in production.
With the new Lithium ION batteries available now it will also help reduce a lot of the weight. PM me if interested.






.
I would be interested if price is decent.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:47 AM   #14788
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
medisyn,

How are you finding TDC?

Plug out, 5th gear, rotate tire backwards to keep it out of the auto decomp until TDC.
You rotate your tire/wheel backwards to get to TDC?
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:53 AM   #14789
Renazco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
How much? 500?
Dunno yet but I'm estimating 3 times that going by memory of what a Joe Racer e-start used to cost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tijuana View Post
what do you think it will weigh? How much?
I don't really know what the actual weight will end up being since the new Lithium batteries will shave a few pounds off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodsxr View Post
I would be interested if price is decent.
Me too, if the price is similar to what Baja used to sell them for. I don't want to pay more then the next guy but there is a lot involved when putting these things together.

I'll keep you all posted on weight and price as soon as I know more.
In the meantime, mine kicks over first kick every time, it's when it's vertical, hot out and your exhausted that makes you want the e-start.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:07 AM   #14790
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
The retainer can wear, and some sprockets are tighter than others. Don't run Primary Drive. I normally use them, but find them too sloppy on the XRR. I've stopped using them in favour of other cheap brands like JT, etc.
Stay away from the primary drive chains too. I love rocky mountain atv, but a hundred or so pages back you will see my broken crank case caused by a pd chain that failed premature. Also, when I posted my review of the pd chain on rmatv explaining how it cost me over $2000, rmatv gave me my money back (for the chain, not whole motor) and deleted my review. I got paid off and didn't even know it. Bastards!
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