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Old 10-14-2012, 07:24 PM   #14881
jules083
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Richmond, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RZRob View Post
Got this '03 XR650 a couple months ago but hope to finally take it out for the first time today. It was essentially a new bike (56 miles) but had been sitting in the corner of someone's garage for the last 10 years.

...............


RZ Rob
Dude, your bike is awesome. I love it. Had to say that.




I have 2 questions for the experts here, my pig is getting close to where I want it but little stuff is holding me up.

1. Rear light/brake light/turn signals. At this point I don't care how good they look, or if they are even visible on the road. I want them to work. What's the fastest, cheapest, and 'close enough to legal'? Over the summer I managed to destroy my acerbis plate mount, I want to just bolt the plate to the fender and get it good enough that I don't get thrown in jail. No inspection here, as long as I make an attempt they don't seem to care. Money is no object at this point, I'm sick of messing with it.

2. I had a few dollars burning a hole in my paypal account and I bought a FMF slip-on from e-bay last month. Seems to work good so far, but what's a good heat shield to keep the side panels from melting when I throw the Giant Loop on? Or a home-brew solution? No trips planned until spring at least, so I have all winter to deal with this one.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:20 PM   #14882
Lostsaffa
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Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
1. Rear light/brake light/turn signals. At this point I don't care how good they look, or if they are even visible on the road. I want them to work. What's the fastest, cheapest, and 'close enough to legal'? Over the summer I managed to destroy my acerbis plate mount, I want to just bolt the plate to the fender and get it good enough that I don't get thrown in jail. No inspection here, as long as I make an attempt they don't seem to care. Money is no object at this point, I'm sick of messing with it.
Jules I am not sure about the laws where you are but for a cheap and reliable rear fender light solution that incorporates a brake light and is a bolt on item, I would not look past this:

http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/36/24/64.shtml

Here is write up I did on another page:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
For anyone who is interested in doing the same, here are some photos of the LED insert for the rear fender light that I fitted today. It came from Wheeling Cycle Supply in the States and literally is a bolt on item needing no drilling, just some connections to the existing wiring.

photo 1

photo 2

It is seriously bright too!
These guys also do a range of LED indicators. You can mount indicators on a small flat sided part of the rear fender just before it meets each side cover. Mine have been there for a while and they are still good (just watch out you don't kick them when mounting the bike)
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #14883
medisyn
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Looks like my strator is too crap to keep the battery charged. It keeps killing that lead acid battery I got from this thread. Is it normal for the headlight (baja designs) to be running off DC power?

The headlight turns on (when the battery is not flat) when the bike is off with the headlight switch on. So what is the best option? Rewind myself? Buy one from Baja Designs/Ricky? From what it looks like, I have the stock strator.

I also saw somebody mention a more efficient blinker, something about the BD one being thermal or something. One thing is when my battery dies, the blinkers stop working...
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:22 PM   #14884
FlyGuy
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Location: Middle of Highway 1 California
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TM40 Review

I have an old 2000 XR650r that is UN plunged, opened up air box, 11 to 1 ross light weight piston, cleaned up cylinder head,Big gun head pipe to a white brothers E silencer, and a stock cam.

I decided to get a TM40 carburetor for some extra performance and some possible economy.

I got THE XR650R Kit recently from jetsrus. It took awhile to get (3 weeks). It came closely jetted, I only replaced the idle jet 22.5 to a 25 (included in the kit)
I am at sea level so I need more fuel at idle


The hardest part of the instillation was rigging the new throttle cables (included in the kit) if you look at this picture above note where the cable ends go on the actuating cam. There are no instructions so I hooked them up wrong at first.

Once installed it started with not too much fuss.
one of the best feature of this carb is the ability to adjust the idle and idle mixture while seated on the motorcycle
Easy to make on the fly adjustments through different altitudes.




the brass screw next to the sudco sticker is the idlle mixture, and the white plastic screw is the idle.

the first test drive was good except for a hesitation when rolling on the throtle from a heavy decell
I found the pump was coming in too early and the solution was to adjust pump actuator play so there is no pump for the first few degrees of throttle
an easy adjustment with the 3.3 gallon tank on

Above the screw is too loose it needs to be so the spring is tighter

It was easy to dial in and I am very happy with the results.
I get better acceleration from near all throttle settings and better top end as well
So far its been dificult to tell if I am getting better economy as I am liking the extra preformance a bit too much.
It is one of the best mods I have done. Idd recomend it if you got the money to burn
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:09 PM   #14885
RZRob
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Passed with flying colors

Took the new bike out today for its maiden voyage. Besides having just got it, and having never ridden it, I'd just completed the dual sport kit. It had 56 miles when I got it, and today I put 98 miles on it. It performed flawlessly. Really all I need to do is tighten the left mirror and go flog it more. Next time I'll have the GoPro.

RZ Rob

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Old 10-14-2012, 11:37 PM   #14886
RZRob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Dude, your bike is awesome. I love it. Had to say that..
Thanks, I'm pretty jolly about it myself. Thankfully it starts a lot easier than I thought it would.

RZ Rob
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:27 AM   #14887
jules083
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Location: Richmond, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
Jules I am not sure about the laws where you are but for a cheap and reliable rear fender light solution that incorporates a brake light and is a bolt on item, I would not look past this:

http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/36/24/64.shtml

Here is write up I did on another page:



These guys also do a range of LED indicators. You can mount indicators on a small flat sided part of the rear fender just before it meets each side cover. Mine have been there for a while and they are still good (just watch out you don't kick them when mounting the bike)
Looks good to me, thanks. I forgot about that company. Laws here are relaxed, I've had 'show lights' that don't work for most of this summer.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:31 AM   #14888
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Looks like my strator is too crap to keep the battery charged. It keeps killing that lead acid battery I got from this thread. Is it normal for the headlight (baja designs) to be running off DC power?

The headlight turns on (when the battery is not flat) when the bike is off with the headlight switch on. So what is the best option? Rewind myself? Buy one from Baja Designs/Ricky? From what it looks like, I have the stock strator.

I also saw somebody mention a more efficient blinker, something about the BD one being thermal or something. One thing is when my battery dies, the blinkers stop working...

How many watts is that light?

Rewinding if you have the time and skill. It isn't hard, but use good wire (gobrushless.com). Buying one isn't much more money.
Also know that the stator doesn't put out full power until around 1800 RPM, so if you are riding slow stuff big lights can still kill a battery with a big stator.

For my next bike I was thinking of just going with all LED thinking I could use the stock stator, but some dude at a bike shop said that led lights ruin batteries, claiming the draw is too much. I don't think the guy had a clue what he was talking about. watts are watts.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:41 AM   #14889
medisyn
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Ok since my Baja Designs kit is somehow running off the stock stator (sigh) I ordered a 200w ricky stator. Is there anything else I should buy to make the install go smoothly? Anything else critical to keep stuff from melting?
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:21 PM   #14890
RalphyDo
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Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Ok since my Baja Designs kit is somehow running off the stock stator (sigh) I ordered a 200w ricky stator. Is there anything else I should buy to make the install go smoothly? Anything else critical to keep stuff from melting?

You are running a battery right? If so, get the Ricky's Stator Reg/Rec too.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:32 PM   #14891
crypto666
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Originally Posted by RalphyDo View Post
You are running a battery right? If so, get the Ricky's Stator Reg/Rec too.

+1 on the 250W? (maybe its 200W) one. It is way heavier duty than the trailtech units, which I have destroyed simply by looking at them too long. The only draw back of this unit is that it can hard on batteries if you run the battery low because it does not regulate the charge current. Which is why I prefer LIFePo4 batteries.

Are you combining both coils for an all DC system? I prefer to run my halogen off of AC, and everything else DC for redundancy. If I lose my DC I still have lights. If I lose my AC, I still have lights. I have yet to lose either except for losing the use of the HID when a battery cell went bad.

Oh, and to avoid melt downs, I put a self-resetting circuit breaker on my DC. Its is just like one of those standard plastic fuses we see in cars, but its a breaker instead so You don't have to pull your seat to replace it.

crypto666 screwed with this post 10-15-2012 at 01:58 PM
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:50 PM   #14892
RalphyDo
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
+1 on the 250W? (maybe its 200W) one. It is way heavier duty than the trailtech units, which I have destroyed simply by looking at them too long. The only draw back of this unit is that it can hard on batteries if you run the battery low because it does not regulate the charge current. Which is why I prefer LIFePo4 batteries.

Are you combining both coils for an all DC system? I prefer to run my halogen off of AC, and everything else DC for redundancy. If I lose my DC I still have lights. If I lose my AC, I still have lights. I have yet to lose either except for losing the use of the HID when a battery cell went bad.

Oh, and to avoid melt downs, I put a self-resetting circuit breaker on my DC. Its is just like one of those standard plastic fuses we see in cars, but its a breaker instead so You don't have to pull your seat to replace it.


Yes, it is the 250W RS reg/rec. On my bike, I run straight DC for everything as my headlights are HID.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:26 PM   #14893
medisyn
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My whole system is currently DC, (my headlight turns on when the bike is off, from battery power.) The issue I am having is my battery always dies because the stock stator cannot power the BD DS kit. Which way should I go? If I run AC to the headlight will that work with the BD DS light? If so will I have to buy any more parts? Is it easier to just get that DC reg with my setup and just run it off the whole 200w setup?

If I run all DC can I pop a HID bulb into the BD DS headlight?

medisyn screwed with this post 10-15-2012 at 04:34 PM
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:30 PM   #14894
RZRob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
My whole system is currently DC, (my headlight turns on when the bike is off, from battery power.) The issue I am having is my battery always dies because the stock stator cannot power the BD DS kit. Which way should I go? If I run AC to the headlight will that work with the BD DS light? If so will I have to buy any more parts? Is it easier to just get that DC reg with my setup and just run it off the whole 200w setup?
That was my same experience with the BD kit. It's because it only uses an 8-pack of AA batteries. Anything more than a flashlight goes dead in 30 seconds. That's why I went and added an AGM battery. I made this handy-dandy tray for the battery to sit behind the cylinder and below and to the left of the carb. Battery was under $20 at Batteries Plus.



RZ Rob
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:49 PM   #14895
medisyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RZRob View Post
That was my same experience with the BD kit. It's because it only uses an 8-pack of AA batteries. Anything more than a flashlight goes dead in 30 seconds. That's why I went and added an AGM battery. I made this handy-dandy tray for the battery to sit behind the cylinder and below and to the left of the carb. Battery was under $20 at Batteries Plus.



RZ Rob
I already have a slightly better lead-acid battery. It kills it after an hour or so of use. The issue is the stock stator cannot keep up. So I looked up the price of the DC reg, 50 bones. I think I will hold off on it unless its REALLY needed.
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