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Old 09-20-2010, 06:09 AM   #136
dolomoto
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valve inspection...

I tore apart my C14 for the valve inspection. The recommended intervals are 26k for non-CA models. I stretched mine out to 36k (!). ALL of the valves are in spec (but 14/16 valves are at the low end of the spec).

Getting the plastic off wasn't too bad. I reckon both sides of the fairing could be taken off as one piece, but I didn't. The frame braces and fairing stays MUST be removed to get the valve cover off. I took my time and had the valve cover off in 4 hours. Next time, I could have it off in 2 hours.

The inspection is straightforward. Cam removal also looks straightforward.

I have the Angelride DVDs and the OEM manual.

The toughest part will be finding someone to swap shims.

I'm gonna adjust them to the loose end of the spec and probably ride it another 35k before the next inspection.

It's been a great bike so far.

YMMV.

This was on the way up to Indy. We stopped at Rella's in Hacker Valley, WV for lunch.

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dolomoto screwed with this post 09-20-2010 at 06:49 PM
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Old 09-20-2010, 10:44 AM   #137
tjhess74
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dolo, i may have missed this on the concours forum, but the valve inspection interval for US models is 15k miles. non-US models is the extended interval. there is much debate over why this is, but its a moot point because mawkaw says 15k, and thats what they will get. if you were to have an engine issue because you went past 15 they would certainly ask you to pay for the repairs out of pocket, regardless of what the interval is for other countries.

doesnt really matter now that youre doing yours. im curious though to see what your clearances are. for the record, i did my third check last spring and the engine seems to have settled.
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:59 PM   #138
dolomoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjhess74
dolo, i may have missed this on the concours forum, but the valve inspection interval for US models is 15k miles....
It's 15,000 miles for US CA models, and 26,000 miles for NON US CA models.

The OEM manual is a bit ambiguous, but I think you'll agree that it's 26,000 miles for those of us without CA spec bikes...

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Old 09-21-2010, 07:11 AM   #139
tjhess74
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dolo, the comma between the us and ca means it applies to both. so 'us, ca' means both models are 15k intervals. non us, ca models are 26k. we fall under the 'us, ca' category.

this is a point that has been hashed to death and verified by kawasaki themselves. again, for you its now a non issue, as your valves are fine. but i dont want a newbie to read this thread and misinterpret the proper interval.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:24 AM   #140
muguvian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolomoto
...
The toughest part will be finding someone to swap shims.
...
Measure your clearances and if I have what you need in my stash of shims, I'll swap you.
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:48 PM   #141
dhillr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjhess74
dolo, the comma between the us and ca means it applies to both. so 'us, ca' means both models are 15k intervals. non us, ca models are 26k. we fall under the 'us, ca' category.

this is a point that has been hashed to death and verified by kawasaki themselves. again, for you its now a non issue, as your valves are fine. but i dont want a newbie to read this thread and misinterpret the proper interval.
Yep.... I got all excited about the 26k thing too until I saw that damned comma!

Checked mine at 15K and it was a PITA but all of my clearances were good. I'm expecting to have to shim some valves at the 30k check.

Glad I finally found this thread!
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:04 AM   #142
dhillr
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Dead thread??

Is this thing dead??
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If so, where in the heck in the current C-14 thread??
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:45 AM   #143
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I purchased a 2010 Concours (GTR1400 in Australia) last January and to be honest was not impressed by a number of areas of the bike in it's stock form, so much that the Kwaka often sat forlornly while I preferred to ride other bikes in my line up. Many words have been penned on this bike in many forums but here is my (abrieviated) list of it's good and bad points. Keep in mind that my bike is the 2010 model so a number of issues such as excessive engine heat, size of windscreen, inclusion of heated grips etc have been addressed by the factory.

My biggest critisms of the 2010 model are the linked brakes and 'flat as a pancake' power delivery below 3000-4000rpm. The linked brakes work fine when riding in easy touring mode but become a right pain in the butt when the red mist descends when you attck your local twisties. It becomes difficult to ride smoothly at speed in the corners when braking and trail-braking on the rear when setting up for a corner becomes problematic. This braking issue encroaches into the area of handling so that I am left with the impression of an uninspiring bike when it comes to spirited riding. Although the chassis and suspension do the job without fault, I am not left in awe of the handling like I was when I hired the nimble by comparison R1200RT in The States for a 14 day period. Let me stress that in normal touring mode, the bike is fine.

In stock form, the power through the midrange (4000-5000rpm) is good and the top-end above 5000rpm is brilliant but down low around 3000rpm the bike cant pull the skin of a rice puddin'! Last Feb about a month after I bought the bike, I did a 5000km road trip to Victoria taking plenty of secondry roads such as Grafton to Armidale, Putty Road and the run over Mt Hotham. This lack of bottom end became very apparent when trying to lay down the power on the way out of the corners so much so that by the time I got home I'd fallen well out of love with the damn bike and have only used it since when the wife wanted to come for a ride because she winges about riding on the back of the Speed Triple. So to keep the peace, I take the GTR.

That's the bad news. Now the good news. I had been thinking for awhile about un-linking the brakes so a couple of weeks ago I had a brake line specialist make me up a special brake line that runs directly from the rear master cylinder to the rear caliper. I then removed the two lines that connect to the ABS and plugged the holes in the ABS control block. Viola, no more linked brakes!

Since the fuel tank has to be removed to do this, I figured, why not remove the secondry butterflies from the inlet tracts while I'm at it.

Result? These two mods have transformed the bike in my two major areas of complaint and am now finding excuses to ride. The brake line mod has no adverse effect on the general operation of the bike except that there is no ABS on the rear wheel but it works just the same on the front wheel where it really matters anyway. The brake action, feel and power at the pedal/lever is perfect and there are no crazy warning lights flashing at me to remind me of a system that has been tampered with. The traction control works on the rear wheel as before so no issues there either.

Regarding removing the 'flies', this has been well documented by many other owners and I can also report that there are no side issues. The fuelling is still good just of a closed throttle and the bike runs perfectly in all other ways. The difference is that the bike now pulls good from 2000rpm, pulls like a barstard from 3 and goes ballistic from 4. The pull off the bottom is similar to my 2009 Speed Triple and not far off the exceptional B-King that I owned before the Triumph so I am now a happy chappy!

Another critisim I had of the bike was the stock muffler but I fitted a Remus c/f pipe earlier in the year. The stock pipe sounded less inspiring than Grandma's old Singer and it looked plain ugly so it had to go. I have retained the mute in the Remus so it is not too loud at touring speeds but the note when pressing on is a thing of beauty to the ear! I did note at the time of fitting the pipe that there was a small performace gain and the weigh saving was exactly 5kg.

On a comfort level, I fitted a set of Heli Risers as I found the windscreen sucked me forward putting too much weight on the wrists in touring mode. The other thing this bike needs badly when touring is a cruise control. Although we sell the friction type units from our shop (Kaoko and Vista), I have just purchased a proper electronic CC from MC Cruise Control and will be fitting this over the next few days. Will post pics of this (and the brake line mod in a few days). Griz
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Grizzlybear screwed with this post 11-04-2010 at 06:56 AM
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:02 AM   #144
dhillr
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Thanks for the info on the secondaries. I have mine appart right now for the 30K valve inspect and may just pull the secondaries while it's apart. I typically keep the rpms around 4,500 when in the twisties so I never had any complaints about lowend torque but it would be nice to have some more pull.

I come from a motorcross racer background and never liked the idea of linked brakes or ABS in a bike. I'm feeling a bit better about ABS lately and have never ridden a bike with linked brakes but your experience seems to sum up what I expected it to be.

dhillr screwed with this post 11-04-2010 at 08:54 AM
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:06 AM   #145
olie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhillr
Is this thing dead??
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If so, where in the heck in the current C-14 thread??
this thread will alive till end of Winter. After that C14 riders will be ...riding, ...not cruising the net...

BTW, here in Austin, I ride all year around although I try not to during raining days but sometimes you get caught...
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Old 11-05-2010, 02:21 PM   #146
dhillr
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Another Valve post!

Just finished checking the valves for my 30K maintenance and all but one valve is at the tight-end of the specs.

When I checked them at the 15K maintenance, everything was just a little below the median values....except the #4 exhaust which was a little toward the high side.

I seem to have experienced about 0.0009" tightening across most of the valves since my 15K check.

Now begins the search for shims!
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Old 11-05-2010, 03:23 PM   #147
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhillr
Just finished checking the valves for my 30K maintenance and all but one valve is at the tight-end of the specs.

When I checked them at the 15K maintenance, everything was just a little below the median values....except the #4 exhaust which was a little toward the high side.

I seem to have experienced about 0.0009" tightening across most of the valves since my 15K check.

Now begins the search for shims!
When my son had his YZ450 dirt bike, we just bought a set of shims from HotCams and had all the shims we ever needed for less than $80, which you just saved by doing the job yourself.
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:00 PM   #148
dolomoto
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I may not do another valve inspection since the first/last one at 36,000 had all in spec (but one was at the tight limit). Alright, I may do ONE more at 60,000 miles.

4 days after the valve inspection, and with just a cursory ride around the block...I took off on a 5400 mile trip.

This is a superlative motorcycle for me. It does everything I need and has been very reliable.

I hope to keep this one for many more miles. With the exception of the '95 C10 I owned, the most miles I've ever gotten on a motorcycle before totalling it or blowing the motor is 59,988.

I'm at 42,000 with the C14...here's to hoping for 100k crash free miles!
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:41 PM   #149
dhillr
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C-14 Shim kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
When my son had his YZ450 dirt bike, we just bought a set of shims from HotCams and had all the shims we ever needed for less than $80, which you just saved by doing the job yourself.

I checked the HotCams site but they didn't have an C-14 or ZX-14 stuff. You bring up a good point though about buying a shim kit. The $80 investment is well worth it.

Anyone have a source for a quality C-14 shim kit??
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:56 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhillr
I checked the HotCams site but they didn't have an C-14 or ZX-14 stuff. You bring up a good point though about buying a shim kit. The $80 investment is well worth it.

Anyone have a source for a quality C-14 shim kit??
They may not list one, but just figure out what size your shims are, I think they are all pretty standard, then buy the proper size kit.
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