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Old 01-15-2009, 11:10 PM   #121
IKIGAI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenB
When I was considering buying a C14, I did some research on this to check the cost and see if it was something I'd want to do myself.

I came across this picture over on concours.org from someone that was doing the valve job himself, and was not having fun. I decided to call the dealer's service manager.


The service manager said it would be 5 hours at $80/hour and the interval is every 15K miles.
I have no idea why someone would disassemble each and every piece of the fairing just to get at the engine -- the entire belly pan and both left & right sides of the fairing, right up to the dash panels, can be removed as one piece in less than 10 minutes.
With the bike on the centre stand, that entire fairing piece can then be rotated out from under the bike and set aside as one unit.
Remove the saddle, the 'glove box' pan, and then the gas tank and you have access to the engine. That complete stripping process requires no more than 45 to 60 minutes -- and that includes removing the battery.
4 hours is reasonable. 5 is someone who is detail orientated or fucking the dog, but either way, one shouldn't have to disassemble the fairing down to separate components.
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:10 AM   #122
tjhess74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IKIGAI
I have no idea why someone would disassemble each and every piece of the fairing just to get at the engine -- the entire belly pan and both left & right sides of the fairing, right up to the dash panels, can be removed as one piece in less than 10 minutes.
With the bike on the centre stand, that entire fairing piece can then be rotated out from under the bike and set aside as one unit.
Remove the saddle, the 'glove box' pan, and then the gas tank and you have access to the engine. That complete stripping process requires no more than 45 to 60 minutes -- and that includes removing the battery.
4 hours is reasonable. 5 is someone who is detail orientated or fucking the dog, but either way, one shouldn't have to disassemble the fairing down to separate components.
huh, well i have no idea why someone would remove the battery, gas tank, and the seat to get to the engine...its not located under there.

those items werent even touched when i did my valves. its all on the sides of the bike.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:27 PM   #123
IKIGAI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjhess74
huh, well i have no idea why someone would remove the battery, gas tank, and the seat to get to the engine...its not located under there.

those items werent even touched when i did my valves. its all on the sides of the bike.
Because I was pulling the secondary throttle plates out, installing a couple powerlet outlets, snugging down the exhaust manifold , banging a 2 Brothers pipe & can on, plugging a power commander in, blocking off the smog valve hose, laying in a wire harness for heated grips, and putting the battery on a charger.
It would seem like a good time to set valves too, wouldn't it?
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:12 AM   #124
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were those really pictures of your plastic on the floor?

I have to ask, because those look a lot like another COG'rs first valve adjust.... Fred's kinda anal about this "tear it apart" thing (opposite of me...the Tech Editor, with "if it ain't broke" mentality) and tends to explore stuff...sometimes that's a bad idea...(like when he pulled rear end/tire a couple times and foxed up the seal...) he began farkling the damn thing on day one.
He does however have a nice set of DVD's on C14 maintainence out now because of it....
Nothing wrong with getting familliar with that plastic though, sooner or later everyone needs to try it....I'll do it later, and ride now.
I could have the old Conni "nekid" and adjust the valves wiping my hands off when finished in less that an hour, and ten minutes. This puppy looks like a 4 hour job IF YOU HAVE THE SHIMS... and that is the slow part, because you don't know what ones you need till you get it apart.
The dealers time estimates come from the book, and I will bet very few dealers will beat that time and make a profit....ask your dealer's tech how many he has done so far.... mine told me "none.... but it can't be any different than the ZX14...." yeah, he ain't touching mine for sure... (ZX ain't got VVT.....)...and having them cross thread all of the bolts holding on the battery cover/frame plate when they installed the battery on dealer prep/assembly, doesn't leave me with warm fuzzies.....(thanks, now I get to install heli-coils on 4 frame points. I sure ain't letting them do it...)


Quote:
Originally Posted by IKIGAI
Because I was pulling the secondary throttle plates out, installing a couple powerlet outlets, snugging down the exhaust manifold , banging a 2 Brothers pipe & can on, plugging a power commander in, blocking off the smog valve hose, laying in a wire harness for heated grips, and putting the battery on a charger.
It would seem like a good time to set valves too, wouldn't it?

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Old 01-21-2009, 10:50 AM   #125
tjhess74
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ikigai, in that case, yes, thats a good time for all of that stuff!

mob, did you see the post from the cog forum of the guy that let the dealer do his valve adjustment and they cracked the narrow cam cap because they torqued it down too soon? iirc, there was some head damage too. big bill!!! , but they eventually fixed it. i would have told them to box it up and give it back...along with a check for the damage.

IF you have done a few of these, AND had a good shim selection, you could do it in 4 hours. i expect my next one will take 5 or 6 hours. the first time was like losing your virginity, you just kinda fumble through it and look for parts you have seen in pictures and flicks!!
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Old 03-24-2009, 06:44 PM   #126
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:02 AM   #127
Tundra Tom
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C-14...best cycle I've ever owned....till you have to push it around in the Garage!

Really is a treat to ride in all conditions, best part is the Jekyll and Hyde nature of it's capabilities. Especially with the flies pulled, PC3 and a slip on. I'm still astounded by folks who piss and moan over the small stuff like heated grips. $35 Dual stars anyone?
I could be wrong but from what I've been reading the valves can go a long(er) way before shimming. I'm over 17k now and plan to wait till next winter.

Took her to the Grand Canyon via Utah, Colorado from Wisconsin last June. Wish I could that every month, it's that easy on the C-14.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:14 PM   #128
badcop621
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Bump for an awesome bike!
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:43 PM   #129
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:53 PM   #130
olie
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...just click on this slideshow from my last trip to Yellowstone, Black Hills, Badlands, etc. Plenty pics from the C14...

http://cid-53848b7844afae9c.photos.l...Site.JPG?ref=2
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Old 09-17-2010, 03:14 PM   #131
DC2wheels
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Since this thread has been recently resurrected I will add my input.

I may not be 20 any more, but even with the engine completely stock it is fast. Occasionally when the conditions allow, I get to 5000 rpms in 2nd gear and "floor" it. HOLEE chit. But that is what you get with 150+hp at the crank.

Of course once you taste the Cool-Aid.......

Now I have to make the choice- GIPro and slip-on or do I go for a PC and pull the "flies" plus slip-on and/or full system.

Hmmm. Decisions, decisions.
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Old 09-18-2010, 12:35 PM   #132
IKIGAI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstrasser
Since this thread has been recently resurrected I will add my input.

I may not be 20 any more, but even with the engine completely stock it is fast. Occasionally when the conditions allow, I get to 5000 rpms in 2nd gear and "floor" it. HOLEE chit. But that is what you get with 150+hp at the crank.

Of course once you taste the Cool-Aid.......

Now I have to make the choice- GIPro and slip-on or do I go for a PC and pull the "flies" plus slip-on and/or full system.

Hmmm. Decisions, decisions.

Should you decide to release 'the hidden magic' of this 1400 cc engine, I can solidly recommend using the services of these guys,...
http://fuelmotousa.com/2008_kawasaki...0_concours.htm

They provide a mapped PC III or V, which can be pre-mapped with your choice of exhaust upgrades, which results literally as a plug & play installation.
Just be aware that changing out the exchaust, whether mid pipe & can (or complete from the header) adds very little if any additional horse power to the conversion -- the additional ponies come largely from simply freeing up the intake restriction (removal of secondary throttle plates) and re-mapping for fuel & ignition.
Removal of the stock exhaust results in weight reduction only.

Any change in the exhaust will make the bike louder, but also reduce some of the high-er rpm buzzy-ness.

I installed a 2Bros CF midpipe and can when I plugged in the PC III, and found it way too loud and went back to stock exhaust -- I never felt any change in performance between the two exhaust systems and have since stayed with the stock can.

There is a lot of shit-talk from BMW supporters and FJR owners about how much better their ride/handling/features/reliability/heat/mileage/etc, is when compared to the C14, and a lot of potential buyers can be confused by the spew.

What never seems to be brought up in discussion however, is the ability to dramatically increase performance with such little aftermarket money and effort.
No other manufactures product that I've seen, has so much hidden potential as the C14 -- this bike is truely a helluva bargin!
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Old 09-18-2010, 02:59 PM   #133
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IKIGAI
No other manufactures product that I've seen, has so much hidden potential as the C14 -- this bike is truely a helluva bargin!
Bandit 1250
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Old 09-18-2010, 06:55 PM   #134
olie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas
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...different league.
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12 XT12, black
Akrapovic, Givi W'shield, Kappa saddlebags...
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:35 AM   #135
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olie
...different league.

...another matter....I replied to the issue of hidden engine potential!
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