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Old 02-06-2009, 08:09 AM   #166
esmoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird
These pics are from an XR650R headlight on ebay (so they'll disappear eventually) - but this is exactly what it looks like.




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Old 02-06-2009, 11:22 PM   #167
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Calling all XR600 gurus

I've had my 93 XR600 about 4 months now so I'm still new to their ways - done 29500km; goes great but does use quite a bit of oil (if I do a hard ride I may have to add half a litre say). I presume this means I have some piston/ring wear and the oil is getting past. As far as I know the engine is standard never been rebored etc. Money is a bit tight for anything major but I do want to keep it and fix this issue. What are my options?

Thanks guys
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Old 02-07-2009, 06:50 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidingQWERTY
I've had my 93 XR600 about 4 months now so I'm still new to their ways - done 29500km; goes great but does use quite a bit of oil (if I do a hard ride I may have to add half a litre say). I presume this means I have some piston/ring wear and the oil is getting past. As far as I know the engine is standard never been rebored etc. Money is a bit tight for anything major but I do want to keep it and fix this issue. What are my options?

Thanks guys
If it is just rings and the piston and cylinder are good....the cheapest fix IMO is to hone the cylinder and re-ring the piston. As long as the head is off, replace the valve guide seals.
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Old 02-07-2009, 09:15 PM   #169
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Mine is finished



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Old 02-07-2009, 09:21 PM   #170
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dirthopper, that is sick!!!!
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:50 PM   #171
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Thanks to Blakebird, I got the new 650R headlight mask on yesterday. It's a little different than the original 600R mask, but I like the way it looks.

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Old 02-08-2009, 05:07 PM   #172
Owyhee
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The only thing that would make the big XR easier to work on is a removable subframe. My bike went from on its wheels to this (minus airbox) inside the baby's two hour nap.

I put on a TM38 Mikuni, changed the front and rear sprockets, examined the fork tubes and stem (again), and did something else I can't remember at the moment. Those rear sprocket bolts had been on there for ten years and were a bugger to remove.

Next up is fork oil change, oil change, taking the triples and stem to the machinist as an example for what my other 600's stem needs to look like, swingarm/linkage greasing, getting new fuel line and dump tubes for the carb, and seeing if the TM38 will fire up. I forgot to pull it apart and see what sort of jets are floating around in there. I need to read up in the Sudco manual on how to tune it too.


That Teraflex on the back rim is massive! It's a full 1/4" wider on each side than the 140/80-18 Michelin S12 I had on there before.

"O"
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Old 02-08-2009, 05:11 PM   #173
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Pull That Mikuni apart. This was probably a fluke but when I got mine the jets were loose inside the body. So while you have it torn down it may be worth a check Oh and put the high altitude kit in it.

Marc
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Old 02-08-2009, 07:36 PM   #174
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I made a little progress today. The '00 is a roller, and the 628 is not on the floor anymore.
...jeez, do we like maroon vehicles or what?




The '92 is getting redder... (how gauche, huh Lomax? )

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Old 02-08-2009, 07:58 PM   #175
Owyhee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lomax
Pull That Mikuni apart. This was probably a fluke but when I got mine the jets were loose inside the body. So while you have it torn down it may be worth a check Oh and put the high altitude kit in it.

Marc
I got the Mikuni used (like most of the stuff I get... I'm just cheap that way) off of an XR600 from Utah (or was it California?) and the guy claimed it was jetted for 3,000 or so. Judging from the condition of the dump tubes and the fuel tube it's been sitting for a while. I'll take care of that on Tuesday. If the TM-38 doesn't work right away I have two stock carbs to play with too (one is stockish jetting and one is jetted fatter).

I also have an TM-40-6 (HSR40) that I need to get rolling on. It's new (!) and jetted for an XL1200 Skirtster and it also needs an adapter kit to fit the XR's boots. Maybe this summer. It may be the last step before I get the 628 rolling.

"O"
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Old 02-08-2009, 07:59 PM   #176
Owyhee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird
I made a little progress today. The '00 is a roller, and the 628 is not on the floor anymore.
...jeez, do we like maroon vehicles or what?

What brand of rim is that and are the spokes aftermarket?

"O"
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:13 PM   #177
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owyhee
I got the Mikuni used (like most of the stuff I get... I'm just cheap that way) off of an XR600 from Utah (or was it California?) and the guy claimed it was jetted for 3,000 or so. Judging from the condition of the dump tubes and the fuel tube it's been sitting for a while. I'll take care of that on Tuesday. If the TM-38 doesn't work right away I have two stock carbs to play with too (one is stockish jetting and one is jetted fatter).

I also have an TM-40-6 (HSR40) that I need to get rolling on. It's new (!) and jetted for an XL1200 Skirtster and it also needs an adapter kit to fit the XR's boots. Maybe this summer. It may be the last step before I get the 628 rolling.

"O"
I think you'll find the TM38 to be a little small for the 600, the TM-40 will work nicely. I put a 40mm flat slide (non-pumper) on my 600 for a while and it performed very well. It was nice to be rid of that part throttle sticking that the stock carb has.
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:38 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owyhee
What brand of rim is that and are the spokes aftermarket?

"O"
Woody's Wheel Works built it for me last year when I found a crack in the stock wheel.
Rad CACR rim, stainless spokes, billet nipples, and billet hub.
Black anodized hub, black anodized rim, laced and trued.
Was in the $400-$450 range complete (just wheel, no tire/tube)

It has held up really well to a full season of use.
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Old 02-08-2009, 09:15 PM   #179
Owyhee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
I think you'll find the TM38 to be a little small for the 600, the TM-40 will work nicely. I put a 40mm flat slide (non-pumper) on my 600 for a while and it performed very well. It was nice to be rid of that part throttle sticking that the stock carb has.
You think so? I read that the 38 was a good setup for a stock 600 (my 99's engine is stock down to the muffler... the airbox is even uncut). I too dislike the off-idle stumble but my main beef is on downhill chop the motor floods out and if it tips over it's a 10-kick starter to get lit again. Not too bad once or twice a ride but I (used to) ride a lot in the snow and spent more time sliding than riding. Not fun.

If the 38 turns out to be too small I'll sell it for more than I paid for it and find something bigger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird
Woody's Wheel Works built it for me last year when I found a crack in the stock wheel.
Rad CACR rim, stainless spokes, billet nipples, and billet hub.
Black anodized hub, black anodized rim, laced and trued.
Was in the $400-$450 range complete (just wheel, no tire/tube)
At first read I nearly fell out of my chair when I read the price then thought about it a bit and figured that billet hub is pretty darn trick and worth the money. I'm not sure I can pony up $450 for a back wheel but if they can work with my stock hub I'd (my wife) would be more inclined to go semi-trick.

I'm not sure if this has been discussed before, I but I believe the stock rear rim to have a poor seam weld which results in it cracking over time. Most of the 600's I've seen, especially those with a few hard miles, have a perfectly straight hairline crack in the same spot. I'd thought that maybe sourcing a replacement rim/hub on eBay for $100 or so would be smart money but wondered if the rim I'd buy used would have the same problem.

"O"
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Old 02-08-2009, 09:25 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owyhee
I'm not sure if this has been discussed before, I but I believe the stock rear rim to have a poor seam weld which results in it cracking over time. Most of the 600's I've seen, especially those with a few hard miles, have a perfectly straight hairline crack in the same spot. I'd thought that maybe sourcing a replacement rim/hub on eBay for $100 or so would be smart money but wondered if the rim I'd buy used would have the same problem.

"O"
That crack occurs at the join weld of the rim extrusion. It's a thin-wall extrusion, not a tough rim to begin with.
It's happened to two of my XR wheels, the '96 XR400 and the '92 XR600. I had the 400's wheel welded successfully.

When I took the 600's wheel to Woody's, he explained why you see more cracks on the drive side, and what leads that weak join weld to crack in the first place.
The XR's stock hub is not all that robust on the drive side, and the torque is enough to slightly tweak things, spokes loosen, cracks develop.

So I was more after the billet hub than the wheel....but since my wheel was cracked and a couple of broken spokes got me there... why not do it right.
Assembling, lacing and truing - included in the ~$400+ tab.
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