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Old 05-10-2012, 09:59 AM   #4186
HeadTrauma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomshakalaka View Post
1.) Anyways, I'll be ordering some parts soon, and I was wondering what spark plug people are running. The Honda parts fiches have five or so to choose from, and I don't know much about these bikes, so I'm open to suggestions.

2.) guess I need a new .......(snip),,,,, crank bolt cover thingy..
1.) Just start with a DPR8EA-9, which is the original plug. It's unusual to actually need a colder DPR9 and extremely rare to need a hotter DPR7.

2.) Join the club. '83-87 stator cover plugs actually had a big slot for a screwdriver.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:11 AM   #4187
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadTrauma View Post
...

2.) Join the club. '83-87 stator cover plugs actually had a big slot for a screwdriver.
If they are the same as the curved slot of the '79 500, you are better off to use a large washer held in a pair of vise-grips. The curved edge of the right-sized washer matches the width and curve of the slot, and provides a better grip. To use even a large screwdriver tends to chew up the slot.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:13 AM   #4188
Callahan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
If they are the same as the '79 500, you are better off to use a large washer held in a pair of vise-grips. The curved edge of the right-sized washer matches the width and curve of the slot, and provides a better grip. To use even a large screwdriver tends to chew up the slot.
the large washer method is supreme with a curved slot.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:15 AM   #4189
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
If they are the same as the curved slot of the '79 500, you are better off to use a large washer held in a pair of vise-grips. The curved edge of the right-sized washer matches the width and curve of the slot, and provides a better grip. To use even a large screwdriver tends to chew up the slot.
I am definitely doing this the next time it needs to come loose
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:52 PM   #4190
boomshakalaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadTrauma View Post
1.) Just start with a DPR8EA-9, which is the original plug. It's unusual to actually need a colder DPR9 and extremely rare to need a hotter DPR7.

2.) Join the club. '83-87 stator cover plugs actually had a big slot for a screwdriver.
1) cool, thanks, I'll order a few when I place my order at servicehonda.com

2) Ya, I'm used to this... I've mostly worked on cb350's, and all of their case cover bolts were philips heads from the factory. They were like trying to torque out a screw made of playdough! Half of the time you just had to grind the head off, pull the case cover off and use vise grips to unscrew the threaded part.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deejay_xr View Post
Is that JBweld or something?

Did it work?

How 'cold' a spark plug you should run has mostly to do with outside temperatures and elevation I believe, I just went with the NGK plug my local dealer recommended me, I can;t check right now which one that was, sorry
I've been using NGK's for cars and bikes for a long time and never had reason to complain, so if you can remember what you went with, that would be cool.

As for the JBweld, I'm not sure yet if it worked, wanted to give it plenty of time to cure-- gonna go find out right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Boom,

that side to side play is normal as is the small play on the wrist pin.
awesome, that is quite a relief. The play in the pin was not anything crazy, so it's probably fine. This means I may get away with just getting new rings. I woke up late, so I won't make it to the machine shop before work today, but I'll go tomorrow-- hopefully the turn around is reasonable.
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:59 PM   #4191
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I'm fairly sure mine was a DPR8 as well, like Headtrauma said
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:28 PM   #4192
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Sticking exhaust valve?

For awhile now, have been dealing with an intermittent stall issue. Comes and goes. Thought I was running out of fuel. Don't think that's it. I pulled the covers and checked the valve lash and if anything they are loose. It has an aftermarket cam, so no auto decomp issues. The manual decomp lever seems to have enough free play in it. Riding this weekend, when the engine would come down to idle, it would miss, I can hear a metallic sound, sort of like a ping/pre-ignition sound and the engine would either stall or catch and run. And it seems to only happen after the engine is warm. And it only does it once rather than repeat in rapid succession. It does not seem to be woofing or popping back in the intake.
So here is the 20,000 dollar question. Do I possibly have a bent or tight valve? Do I have an ignition problem? I could pull the head and tear it down, but would rather not if I am missing the real issue elsewhere? Ideas?
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:26 PM   #4193
elsalvadorklr
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aftermarket cam? which one?

your valves adjusted correctly?

what do the rocker and cam lobe faces look like?

metallic sound?
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:59 PM   #4194
mcma111
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Jab,

Does this stall bit happen when you coming to a stop? Is your idle set to low? Is the carb float set to low also? Have the slosh guard in place?
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:59 PM   #4195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
aftermarket cam? which one?

your valves adjusted correctly?

what do the rocker and cam lobe faces look like?

metallic sound?
aftermarket cam? which one?
Hot Cam (yes, I know, but it has had no issues, yet)

your valves adjusted correctly?
Nope. They are loose by a few thou. I was looking for a tight valve, but no luck there.

what do the rocker and cam lobe faces look like?
Looking at the cam lobes thru the cover holes, they all look nice and smooth. I am going to pull the valve cover and give it all a good look.

metallic sound?
It is a little noisy, so a valve adjust is in order. There seems to be one
click-ping-snap sort of noise when it misses. Sort of like the valve is snapping shut with no pressure from the cam or lifter.
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:07 PM   #4196
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isn't that noise just the manual decompress actuator? The engine might kick backwards when it stalls?
I have heard that noise often and it hasn't concerned me...but...I am not an expert
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:32 PM   #4197
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogervize View Post
isn't that noise just the manual decompress actuator? The engine might kick backwards when it stalls?
I have heard that noise often and it hasn't concerned me...but...I am not an expert

My bike has stalled MANY times in the past at traffic lights and such, but never did it make a sound like described when it did.

I don't think that could be it

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAB View Post
For awhile now, have been dealing with an intermittent stall issue. Comes and goes. Thought I was running out of fuel. Don't think that's it. I pulled the covers and checked the valve lash and if anything they are loose. It has an aftermarket cam, so no auto decomp issues. The manual decomp lever seems to have enough free play in it. Riding this weekend, when the engine would come down to idle, it would miss, I can hear a metallic sound, sort of like a ping/pre-ignition sound and the engine would either stall or catch and run. And it seems to only happen after the engine is warm. And it only does it once rather than repeat in rapid succession. It does not seem to be woofing or popping back in the intake.
So here is the 20,000 dollar question. Do I possibly have a bent or tight valve? Do I have an ignition problem? I could pull the head and tear it down, but would rather not if I am missing the real issue elsewhere? Ideas?

My '87 has almost the same symptoms yours does, except without the strange noise, the noise makes it a little more curious.

In my case I have dis-assembled the entire head and relapped the valves into their seats, replaced EVERY electrical part except the crankshaft pulse generator and I handchecked the entire wiring harnes and replaced a few pieces that looked suspect. I checked float levels and checked for air leaks around every part of the carbs with brake cleaner while it was running.
Still there..
I just now replaced the air cut-off valve in the primary carb (it's a dual carb), hoping to take it for a test run tomorrow.
If that doesn't do the trick I'll be at a complete loss...
I'm convinced that my jetting isn't a 100%, but nothing that could be the cause of making it stall like it does if you ask me.

Pulling the head would be an investment in time and money, but wouldn't be a bad idea if you haven't done so for some time, or even since you have it. It would give you a chance to check up on the Hotcam too...

Also, mcma111 raises some good points about float level and slosh guard if the stalling occurs at coming to a stop. But those things wouldn't account for the noise I guess

Good luck man !!
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deejay_xr screwed with this post 05-10-2012 at 07:42 PM
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:03 PM   #4198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22manyrides View Post
French bags from army/navy surplus store, leather and rivits.
This is how far I got today, A little more tweaking and I'll put them through some rigous testing.







Jusy yook a look on line at woldman tank panniers they are 79.99...
Their front fender tool pack is 24.95...cheap enough.
Love the idea of saddle bag ..guess it could also be over the seat..it would be comforting to know that you have less distance to fall
Keep us posted on this...
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:07 PM   #4199
elsalvadorklr
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yeah the noise is what I would think discards the other theories

I have had the stalling when I didnt have the slosh baffle, but that was only when abruptly coming to a stop

it can be fixed by simply having a high idle like an enduro bike setup...to prevent stallin in the techincal stuff

would a broken valve spring do the noise?

just for shits and giggles readjust your manual decomp and see if it changes anything

it can be too loose

I adjust mine monthly

cheers
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:17 AM   #4200
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15 tooth front sprocket

If I go from a 14 to a 15 tooth front sprocket can I still use the OEM case guard? Or will the chain hit with the bigger sprocket?
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