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Old 07-27-2012, 08:28 AM   #5116
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejay_xr View Post
Exactly


Cool that you noticed an actual increase in power band just by doing the half wrap !
Half the wrap is the max with 2strokes from what i learned, completely wrapping a 2stroke exhaust will lead to overheating the piston and melting it.
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:42 AM   #5117
guns_equal_freedom
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Still trying to figure out what you want to call all XR600R's.

Call all XR600R!!!
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:47 AM   #5118
elsalvadorklr
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help

need some quick answers here bros

so

spark plug cap theoretically should read 5ohms right? resistance?

Im getting 2.5 on the new coil...

when plugging the cap on I get a way off high reading

there was some water in the cap when I unscrewed the plug off and recut the wire

also

when adjusting your meter for ohms you should touch the negative and positive and adjust till you get a solid infinity right?

Im brain farting here and maybe just maybe its my plug cap that took a shit

no its a ngk plug not the stocker...

thoughts peeps?

thanks
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:00 AM   #5119
Schrauberklaus
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Hi

i just remove the wrap 2 days ago , after 6 years on my xr'sonly stainless header .
Its locks so rusty , if i don't know better i say its normal steel .

But its not , normal Steel may be gone compleatly .
From the hole surface of the stainless maybe 0,2 -0,4 mm corroded away .
its pitted like hell
clean it a little bit , new wrap is on the way .
then XR and XL get new wrap .
On the XL i notice a little power drop after i cut the wrap of a few month ago .
so it seams to help a little bit
If some one want to wrap the header , don't let oil run over the wrap .
You get it never clean again .
and use quality one .
The wrap from xr'sonly last 6 years , the local one ( i buy here in Thailand ) 4 month.

like deejai say already : never use wrap on steel headers

The ABP header on E-Bay is maybe a long time there as nobody in Germany want it .
it seems they don't fit very well as many people report so a few years back .
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:10 AM   #5120
elsalvadorklr
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any help here buds?

please?

I get no reading with cap and a reading of around 3 without cap

it seams the cap is bad?

yes?
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:12 AM   #5121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post

when adjusting your meter for ohms you should touch the negative and positive and adjust till you get a solid infinity right?

On older style analog meters, you ZERO the reading when the leads are shorted together. You probably meant to say zero and not infinity.

I had to rework my old plug caps due to corrosion/high resistance readings.


Speaking about header wrap, I'd like to hear more about the ceramic coatings. They are supposed to keep the rust away and insulate the headers so the heat stays on the inside.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:20 AM   #5122
elsalvadorklr
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THANKS MAN!

yes zero out or the opposite end of max or infinity

yeah I hear a rattle in my plug cap

seems it shorted or had corrosion too as there was water in it

would any 5ohm cap work?

this cap I had was just a ngk 5ohm cap off cheapcycle parts not the stocker

I think I found my issue

P.S. i HEAR CERAMIC COATING IS THE BEST TOO..

wrap just doesnt last I wanted to do this to my headers but we have torrential humid rainy season here and it was a no go for me

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Old 07-27-2012, 11:12 AM   #5123
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I bet the resistor in your cap died. Look in the end that goes on the plug, you should see a screwdriver slot in a brass piece. Remove the brass part and take out the resistor, cut a piece of heavy stiff wire to replace the resistor and try to start the bike. I've had to do this out in the mountains when a buddy's bike died...
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:24 AM   #5124
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There is spray-on sealer available from Thermo-Tec for their header wrap. It is supposed to reduce the wrap's tendency to absorb dirt and liquids. I can't help but wonder if it's really just 2000° header paint, though.

http://www.thermotec.com/products/12...t-coating.html

On a side note, exhaust wrap isn't going to have as pronounced an effect as it does on a two-stroke expansion chamber because the average four cycle doesn't rely nearly as much on exhaust resonance (and not in the same way) to shape the power curve. Wrapping an expansion chamber increases its resonant frequency because the speed of sound in air increases as density goes down and density goes down as temperature goes up.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:48 AM   #5125
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustySpokes View Post
I bet the resistor in your cap died. Look in the end that goes on the plug, you should see a screwdriver slot in a brass piece. Remove the brass part and take out the resistor, cut a piece of heavy stiff wire to replace the resistor and try to start the bike. I've had to do this out in the mountains when a buddy's bike died...
yeah if only it were the stock plug cap

its an aftermarket ngk one with a built on 5k resistor I have tried and its not removable so I have to replace the whole thing

I too was bummed when I bought this cap as I wanted to have the option of replacing the resistor in case if failure
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:39 PM   #5126
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First off, the original Kevlar header wrap was an aerospace tech item adopted by professional racers many years ago to help keep the heat in and make the header pipe more efficient. It worked very well but also kept the thin walled mild steel and stainless steel header pipes extremely hot and it would destroy the header tubing over time a rather short period of time. The Air Force discovered ceramic coatings via DuPont and did away with header wraps on all aircraft. Ceramic is far superior to even Kevlar header wrap as it is applied on both the inside and outside of the tubing encapsulating it. As long as it is not flexed excessively or bent from an impact it will last forever and chemical properties far exceed even the toughest of racing conditions.

All that said, about 15 years ago higher end racer supply shops sold Kevlar header wrap for about $150 per 50ft roll. Some smaller race headers could be done with one roll but most of the V8 cars needed one roll each side and another half roll all the way to the muffler can. In a race application the headers and exhaust system would last 1-2 race seasons or about 1 year of use. Where as the same Ceramic coatings from such companies as Jet-Hot the entire system cost just under $1000 to be coated, and potentially last for the life of the part, baring any crashes.

Fast forward 10 years and everyone and their dog are building street racers to match their favorite Sunday team drivers cars and the advent of cheap Chinese crap entering the market as "economical" racer parts. Voila, the current state of affairs, the common glass fiber exhaust system heat barrier wrap cloth. Which really equates to nothing more than some very cheap fiberglass webbing that you soak in water to make it plyable, wrap your header with it cause everyone else is doing it and it looks so "racer chic", and let it dry and you hope its the bee's knee's of super trick!

This stuff is shit! total waist of your hard earned money! Last I checked Jet-Hot Coatings has come way down in price and a typical 4-1 motorcycle header was about $250 to coat, your lousy small 2-1 XR header couldn't be more the $150 to do, although I'm only guessing, its been a while since I looked into it.

If your just a cheap ass like most of my clients are and insist on wrapping headers for that fresh racer look, do yourself a favor, wrap them wet, let the wrap air dry for 24 hours, use a quality heat gun to accelerate if needed but let them dry completely. Use either quality SS zip ties or 4 wraps of SS safety wire at every beginning and ending point and finish with at least one full can of DEI Silicone header wrap spray protectant. Let that stuff dry for a day and then try soaking the pipe with water to see if you missed any spots. if you did and it absorbs water, wait for it to dry and coat the wrap again with silicone. If you do all these steps and you ride your bike in a harsh muddy environment, inspect the wrap every time you clean your bike. If after you wash it you notice spots that are soaking up the water instead of just beading off, you need to recoat it with silicone. Sounds like a lot of work don't it. Well it is. Ceramic really is the way to go. Kevlar wrap is still available but it hasn't come down in price, only went up.

Just looking into other ceramic options and I might not even go with Jet-Hot. Here is a link to a shop in Washington called Performance Coatings. http://www.performancecoatings.com/index2.html

Might be worth looking into. 2-1 motorcycle header is listed at $90, you'll spend $50 for quality header wrap, SS zip ties and 2 cans of silicone spray and maybe more down the road if you have to replace the header after it has dissolved from within.

Just my 10 cents worth but what the hell do I know anyway.

Later Travis
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IronSpadeCycles screwed with this post 07-27-2012 at 12:50 PM
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:17 PM   #5127
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There we have it folks
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:55 PM   #5128
brucifer
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Thanks for that post Travis.
I've always thought header wrap looked terrible on anything. On a bike, it really takes away from the overall look and completely uglies it up--in my opinion of course.
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:03 PM   #5129
elsalvadorklr
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well back to square 1

changing the cap didnt do a thing...

so guess its the pg or something else

geeze

no back to header wrap,

apparently this stuff is the shiznit!
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:29 PM   #5130
IronSpadeCycles
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Heat wrap explained

Well worth the read, granted these guys are trying to sell heat wraps so... but still great info. http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/news/9

Keep in mind a perfect 14.7 to 1 air to fuel mixture will have exhaust temps from 1400-1600 F degrees @ WOT. http://www.teamrip.com/masc1thermocoupleinstall.htm

Since fiberglass heat wrap can not take temps over 1000 F degrees with 1200 F being the failure point, well I think that explains all.



Later, Travis
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