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Old 01-18-2010, 07:10 PM   #751
trackhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by screwit
My 2000 XR6 had the edelbrock on it when I got it. I have not had any problems with it but I also haven't noticed any real benefits over a stock carb either. I have an 01' XR400 with the stock carb and don't think I'm gaining much (throttle response, easier starting etc.) with the Edelbrock. I wouldn't spend the money to buy one if that helps.
It's already got the Edelbrock on it now. Seems ok I guess.

I like the fact that the accelerator pump is adjustable on the fly and the needle is as well.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:29 PM   #752
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The Edlebrock eliminates the bog when you goose the throttle. If that slight bog bothers you , spend 400 on the Edlebrock.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:41 PM   #753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r00t4rd3d
The Edlebrock eliminates the bog when you goose the throttle.
Only if it's the pumper version.
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:33 PM   #754
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[quote=HeadTrauma]
Quote:
Originally Posted by r00t4rd3d
The Edlebrock eliminates the bog when you goose the throttle.[/quote

Only if it's the pumper version.
Is there some indication on the carb as to if it's a pumper series?

Edelbrock Quicksilver is the model stamped on it. It has the right side accelerator pump screw and the red nob on the top to dial the needle.
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:56 PM   #755
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accelerator pump = pumper
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:21 PM   #756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r00t4rd3d
accelerator pump = pumper
Got it, thx.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:45 AM   #757
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Carb Assy Advice

I posted the following over in the XR400 thread. I'm posting over here also because the carb types are the same and I'm doing the XR600 next.

I've got my stock carb fully disassembled & cleaned. Should I use any lubricant at any locations to promote smooth operation & longevity? Or just rely on the fuel passing through it for any needed lubrication?

I could see the air/fuel passing through being sufficient for the throttle valve. I'm thinking for the linkage above the throttle valve, the shaft where the throttle cables attach and the contact surfaces of the choke lever. Nothing dripping but maybe a drop smeared then wiped off with a finger. Just enough to get a minimal film on the moving surfaces. If so what type? Motor oil, 3-in-one, Triflow or any other suggestions?

Lastly, how about the idle set screw/knob? Should I leave that bare or I was thinking just a very small amount anti-sieze??

Thanks,
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:26 AM   #758
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Carb

Yes you can put a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the idle screw but otherwise it's all dry. Anything you put on there WILL attract dirt to build up.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:09 AM   #759
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I ran 60/160 or 165 main

thanks..
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:08 AM   #760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocelica
1.) Should I use any lubricant at any locations to promote smooth operation & longevity? Or just rely on the fuel passing through it for any needed lubrication?

2.) Lastly, how about the idle set screw/knob? Should I leave that bare or I was thinking just a very small amount anti-sieze??
1.) Lube is optional, but I find that the stock XR600 carb works more smoothly, especially older ones with more wear, when the slide and bore has been oiled. Just use some kind of light oil like ATF, thin engine oil, etc. Fuel vapor will eventually wash it away, but I find it usually lasts long enough to be worthwhile.

2.) I don't think the idle screw needs anything if it isn't being frequently adjusted. If it is, then something else is not right. I haven't touched mine in probably two years.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:06 PM   #761
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Carb Assy Advice

Thanks for the replies and advice.

As far as the Idle Screw goes sometimes I'll turn it up a bite for intitial start up when it's cold and hasn't been run in a while. Otherwise it'll die unless I leave the choke on for a real long time. Maybe I have my idle normally set on the low side? I know I don't have much of an ear for idle RPM of a thumper?

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Old 01-19-2010, 02:30 PM   #762
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Idle

I do the same thing, turn the idle up at start. The reason I suggested anti-seize on the idle screw is my buddy's XR650l's screw seized in his carb due to never turning it. Now it's really stuck!
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:36 PM   #763
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I think that's what I'll do... Put just a bit on there then wipe it off which will leave a very thin layer behind which should keep it from seizing and hopefully not atract too much dirt. The silver stuff I use pretty much requires solvent or brake cleaner to fully eliminate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111
I do the same thing, turn the idle up at start. The reason I suggested anti-seize on the idle screw is my buddy's XR650l's screw seized in his carb due to never turning it. Now it's really stuck!
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:46 PM   #764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocelica
As far as the Idle Screw goes sometimes I'll turn it up a bite for intitial start up when it's cold and hasn't been run in a while. Otherwise it'll die unless I leave the choke on for a real long time. Maybe I have my idle normally set on the low side? I know I don't have much of an ear for idle RPM of a thumper?
With all my XR's I have always modulated the idle screw regularly. I don't even bother with choke on my bikes, I just twist up the idle a turn, 1 kick start, then gradually turn it down as the bike warms up.

Depending on riding conditions, temps, jetting, etc engine temp will vary during riding which has a direct effect on the idle. I do minor adjustments while riding all the time.

Your results may vary.
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:36 PM   #765
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In contrast, I don't have a choke and still never have to touch the idle screw. YMMV.
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