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Old 05-23-2013, 08:11 AM   #8161
elsalvadorklr
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exact same one I switch back and forth with...

good spare...no issues
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:53 PM   #8162
voltz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
exact same one I switch back and forth with...

good spare...no issues
why do you switch back and forth ?
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:22 PM   #8163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltz View Post
why do you switch back and forth ?

He's been trying to exorcize the demons out of his engine. He finally found a bad/cracked wire at the coil. All better now.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:05 AM   #8164
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
He's been trying to exorcize the demons out of his engine. He finally found a bad/cracked wire at the coil. All better now.
x2

If I ever have troubles(which I do) I can easily diagnose electrical issues by eliminating possible causes...

this because I live in a country where spares are hard to come by so over time steve and others have sent me a crapload of extra stuff

I have 2 stators
2 coils, 2 plug caps
2 cdis
oem pg and new one installed

anytime I start getting electrical issues from vibrations or whatever and they seem out of the blue the first thing I switch is the cdi...if that shows no change I usually change the coil and cap or resistor in the cap

if none of this helps what I usually end up doing is testing the stator for volts then I undo the wiring harness

this last time I actually had one of the coil wires under the honda gromment cracked you couldnt see it...

I made new connections and Im good to go...

so thats part of the reason I have all these electrical components to switch back and forth with

I dont with the pg or stator...jejeje
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:10 AM   #8165
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Captin115,
Have you looked at your head closely for interferance with piston / valves.
Dropped valve guide or something.
I had mine start a ticking noise.
When it was torn down it was obvious it was the valve seat.
However the guide had moved also.
Go back and look at your old piston for top surface damage very closely.
Mine was showing signs of lower compression when I was starting it. This was about 10,000 after a major rebulid.
We kero tested the head at the rebuild and it was fine,
We had the valves reseated at the time, came back border line for thickness but we used it.
Now have repalced with new head, valves and some rockers, cam was whole new cam at rebuild time so did not need work.
Did you also check the oil holes in the crank before you reassembled.
Did you pump oil in the crank shaft end oil hole and see oil coming out of the connecting rod big end.
You could have a blocked crank oil hole.
Did you check the oil screen in the bottom of the frame oil tube to make sure it was not blocked with the teflon / nylon from the cam chain guides as they wear.
Biggest cause of engine oil starvation in XR's after not feeding them enough oil.
Hope you get it sorted.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:05 AM   #8166
elsalvadorklr
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^^^x2...good tips

john...

what did you do to the head during your rebuild? if nothing this could be a source of issues

same goes for crank...you really have to clean everything ESPECIALLY when you had a failure before...

remeber the seal I asked about, if that is leaking then your crank suffers oil starvation and could be causing it to run drier and make noise...dunno really but its a VERY important seal.

Im still plucking bronze flakes from the catastrophic failure the previous onwer had when he exploded a crank assembly and the sold the bike in boxes to me without a crank...this after almost 4 years having the bike...

even after 2 unrelated rebuilds and a million flushes of the frame there are still bits that end up in the frame strainer...

so if something similiar happened with your bike you really need to make sure you check EVERYTHING

also you were sold the bike as a 630 kit...what if it was a 630 at one point had some major damage happen and then they went back to stock cylinder and stuff...

?????

just trying to help a fellow 88er...

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Old 05-24-2013, 04:21 PM   #8167
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
^^^x2...good tips

john...

what did you do to the head during your rebuild? if nothing this could be a source of issues

same goes for crank...you really have to clean everything ESPECIALLY when you had a failure before...

remeber the seal I asked about, if that is leaking then your crank suffers oil starvation and could be causing it to run drier and make noise...dunno really but its a VERY important seal.

Im still plucking bronze flakes from the catastrophic failure the previous onwer had when he exploded a crank assembly and the sold the bike in boxes to me without a crank...this after almost 4 years having the bike...

even after 2 unrelated rebuilds and a million flushes of the frame there are still bits that end up in the frame strainer...


so if something similiar happened with your bike you really need to make sure you check EVERYTHING

also you were sold the bike as a 630 kit...what if it was a 630 at one point had some major damage happen and then they went back to stock cylinder and stuff...

?????

just trying to help a fellow 88er...

reading this is kinda a relieve for me...
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:59 PM   #8168
elsalvadorklr
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UH OH...

Got something going on?
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:42 PM   #8169
voltz
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Some slight damage to the rear wheel bearing spacer, anything to be concerned about?

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Old 05-24-2013, 08:16 PM   #8170
Captain115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzAnt View Post
Captin115,
Have you looked at your head closely for interferance with piston / valves.
Dropped valve guide or something.
I had mine start a ticking noise.
When it was torn down it was obvious it was the valve seat.
However the guide had moved also.
Go back and look at your old piston for top surface damage very closely.
Mine was showing signs of lower compression when I was starting it. This was about 10,000 after a major rebulid.
We kero tested the head at the rebuild and it was fine,
We had the valves reseated at the time, came back border line for thickness but we used it.
Now have repalced with new head, valves and some rockers, cam was whole new cam at rebuild time so did not need work.
Did you also check the oil holes in the crank before you reassembled.
Did you pump oil in the crank shaft end oil hole and see oil coming out of the connecting rod big end.
You could have a blocked crank oil hole.
Did you check the oil screen in the bottom of the frame oil tube to make sure it was not blocked with the teflon / nylon from the cam chain guides as they wear.
Biggest cause of engine oil starvation in XR's after not feeding them enough oil.
Hope you get it sorted.
Thanks for the suggestions mate.

The head was fine, no loose valves etc and the top of the piston was ok. The knock was definitely down lower, ie crank transmission etc. I will check the crank oils holes though, that is something I didn't think of, thanks!

__________________________________________________ ______________________________________

I have actually found the problem!!

Found it yesterday, in between finishing my stat analysis and beginning my results section.
(Currently my life is just separated into moments around this paper: thesis, breakfast, thesis, take a crap, thesis, coffee, thesis, lunch, thesis, work, thesis, dinner, thesis, sleep.)

So who wants to step right up and guess the problem? Come on now, don't be shy.

Here's a hint, remember all those metal fragments that I found when I first tore it down, and couldn'tt figure out where they came from? Thought it was from an old piston? Well I've found where they're coming from...

Give it a shot
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:18 PM   #8171
voltz
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Big end bearing?

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Old 05-24-2013, 08:35 PM   #8172
tijuana
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Looks like a Ricks CDI

Quote:
Originally Posted by S.t.t.G. View Post
CDI box, factory or aftermarket? Any horror stories regarding aftermarket boxes like this one:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...l-CDI-Box.aspx



*absolutely pretty sure mine has done gone an' shit the bed...
I Have one (among the 8 million products I stock) available that looks exactly like that, made by Rick brand.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:01 PM   #8173
Captain115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltz View Post
Big end bearing?

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk
Remember there was no vertical play in the rod at all.

It's an after market rod, ProX, and has been put in fairly recently as there is only slight wear in the small end....





































... dammit Geoff, why are you so clever



No vertical play that I could tell, or my Dad, friends or machinist could tell either.

A mate of mine who is a mining engineer flew back in the other day (2 weeks on - 1 week off) and offered to go get the rod look at etc since I am busy and he had nothing better to do. Lo and behold, the big end was trashed.
Notice the lack of a bearing cage? Fuck knows where that went, ground into those metal flakes I guess. Missing needles and others broken in half. Whole thing is well fucked.

Anyway, this is a good thing. Means I know the problem, know where the metal came from that started the first blow up, know why it was knocking both before and after the rebuild (so i didn't fuck that up which is good). Will replace it with a HotRods rod when I get the money/time, and so almost everything should be new , top and bottom ends.

My mate also picked up a replacement main bearing from a bearing supply shop because it is cheap ($20) and I'm going to order the strangely sized one (6307/18) in the next week or so. While this expensive one still turns fine and seems perfect, I don't want some flakes of metal to float out of it's cage after I've finished the rebuild, ala Christian and his bronze flakes still sticking around in his crank.

Cheers for the help everyone, happy days!

John
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:27 PM   #8174
voltz
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glad you finally found it John,now get to work on that thesis :)
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Old 05-25-2013, 03:41 AM   #8175
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
UH OH...

Got something going on?
every time I change oil or something I get these couple of flakes, nog a lot.. just enough to cover a nail or something.. But I don't have any issues with the bike.. Now I do know the previous owner had a seized up piston/cylinder/cam and I have flushed the frame and engine, but not thoroughly.. this would explain why I keep seeing the flakes..
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