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Old 05-27-2013, 06:03 AM   #8191
Royal Club
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Location: The Netherlands
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yeah.. I think I can brew something up.. Still would be nice if someone could donate some old pegs.. even the worn stuff is expensive here.. -_-
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:21 AM   #8192
joexr
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I think all you would need is a bushing for a spacer , without welding.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:46 PM   #8193
motomike14
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Florida
Oddometer: 1,667
Just got my 3rd XR600, this time a 2000 (hello 21st century brakes opposed to those on my 86/87).

Came with an hsr42 carb on it. Runs very well, especially on mid to top. But, has a slight stumble just off idle. Only does it when rolling in the throttle slowly. Seems like a lean condition the way it farts. Here's what I'm thinking to try:

Half turn in on air screw
Half turn out on throttle pump (allow more in)
Drop one clip on needle

On the big end, seems to run just fine as its blowing a little black soot on the fender. Has a fmf powerbomb header and q4 exhaust with spark arrester. Doesn't start hard. But, needs no choke at start up, which seem to contradict my lean on the bottom theory.

Anyone got recommendations on jetting setups? I am at sea level, and is often quite humid.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:55 PM   #8194
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomike14 View Post
Just got my 3rd XR600, this time a 2000 (hello 21st century brakes opposed to those on my 86/87).

Came with an hsr42 carb on it. Runs very well, especially on mid to top. But, has a slight stumble just off idle. Only does it when rolling in the throttle slowly. Seems like a lean condition the way it farts. Here's what I'm thinking to try:

Half turn in on air screw
Half turn out on throttle pump (allow more in)
Drop one clip on needle

On the big end, seems to run just fine as its blowing a little black soot on the fender. Has a fmf powerbomb header and q4 exhaust with spark arrester. Doesn't start hard. But, needs no choke at start up, which seem to contradict my lean on the bottom theory.

Anyone got recommendations on jetting setups? I am at sea level, and is often quite humid.
whatever you choose to do, do one thing at a time, not all three!!!
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:58 PM   #8195
Dino3310
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Location: waikato gravel and sand
Oddometer: 672
good excuse to open her up every time and not just 'roll on the throttle'
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:02 PM   #8196
Dino3310
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Location: waikato gravel and sand
Oddometer: 672
Hey nikolic
what bike did the oil cooler come off?
thinking of adding one under my headlight
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:01 AM   #8197
nikolic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino3310 View Post
Hey nikolic
what bike did the oil cooler come off?
thinking of adding one under my headlight
yamaha xtz tenere 600!
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:57 AM   #8198
elsalvadorklr
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 4,076
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikolic View Post
yamaha xtz tenere 600!
great choice...of cooler and installation!

nikolic just be carefull with the copper tubing...it has a tendency to fatigue and crack...its a great material but a little sensitve to vibration and such...

My dad used to make solar panels and we made copper heat tubing to absorb the suns energy...

I learned a lot as a kid about the benefits of copper and how to work with it...

other than that great job! jealous!
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:10 PM   #8199
martin.kryjom
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Oddometer: 50
Tm 40

HI
I have renovated XR 600 R with 628 HRC big bore done by XR only.
Please help me with carb, i have try already 3 of them and results are strange.

1) It was flat side MX by XR only- bike did not start, if star has pure "pumping" effect on the mid range, no power...

2) FCR 40. To start that thing i needed to screw IN Idle screw, then , when engine hot i needed to crew it out to get proper idle . This carb does not have choke. Bike was running unstable up to 1/4 throttle, "pumping" effect, unstable idle and so on. When stop, i needed to screw idle screw in and then start

SET UP

EMR needle
170 main jet
50 pilot jet
Fuel screw: 1 turn out
pilot air jet: 150 (1.5 turn out)
main air jet: 200


3) Mikuni TM 40. Now on the bike.
It starts in the beginning with the choke out, but now to start the bike i need to screw Idle Screw almost all IN .Bike starts but with very high rpm. If i set up idle for proper rpm, it goes down on every stop lights:(.
When i try to make rapid acceleration bike is not responding up to 1/4 throtlle.
I have Mikui set up for Honda XR 600 , but no idea what is that set up as i did not get any manual for that,

How is related idle screw to fuel screw in that carb? What IDLE screw does?
Please help as im loosing my determination to ride that thing again:(
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:36 PM   #8200
elsalvadorklr
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Location: el salvador
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martin the issue is you never actually tune the carb you currently have

if you just plop on different carbs from different bikes you are going to end up shooting yourself!

from all this info you just put up all I can say is the fcr40 on the xr6 uses the ncvt needle...

it also needs to be tuned for your specific cam, exhaust etc...

you never did work on the tm38 from xrsonly did you?

the tm40 is a popular carb for the bigger xr650r it may work but whatever settings work on the xr650r will not likey work exactly the same as on the xr6 that is pretty basic info...

tough to help when you dont follow through
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:45 PM   #8201
voltz
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Location: Taree,Mid North Coast Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royal Club View Post
whatever you choose to do, do one thing at a time, not all three!!!
^^^^^words of wisdom,right there !
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:11 PM   #8202
thebigman
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Location: Texas Gulf Coast
Oddometer: 3,328
Quote:
Originally Posted by voltz View Post
^^^^^words of wisdom,right there !


Yessir +1 , small moves and only 1 at a time .
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:57 AM   #8203
Airguitar
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Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Oddometer: 383
How wise is Wiseco & co...?

Hi fellow XR600 riders.
Here's a question:- After reading this thread from start to finish, and then more like it on TT, etc. I come up with a common theme. After many people do a rebore and add Wiseco or similar, Hotcam, etc. The bike goes like hell for 3 months and then it's rebuild time with the top end or piston/rings doing a major self-destruct.
I'm an aircraft engineer, and we have a policy of always staying within the design limits of the factory. When you exceed those limits, you SEVERELY, EXPONENTIALLY compromise the reliability of the engine(s). (Read shorten time between rebuilds)
Where is the sense, then, in hot-rodding a 20-year-old bike when you KNOW you're going to be rebuilding it within 2000 miles?
And most likely the bike will let you down when you're 150 miles from help.

My inclination is to keep it standard, go (a bit) slower, but much further for much longer with far fewer surprises downroute. What say you?
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:04 AM   #8204
Dino3310
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rebuilds half the fun
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:07 AM   #8205
Dino3310
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Location: waikato gravel and sand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikolic View Post
yamaha xtz tenere 600!
sweet cheers mate, it looks primo, you done a good job
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