Richmond Va chatter

[burtonrider3889]

Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8

This could be a good bike for you as well. I really like the DR350. Not as fancy as the DRZ400 but simple to own and maintain. I am pretty sure this 98' has the better suspension from the dirt only version. i know the 99 does which was the last one brought to the US. This bike is worth consideration.
http://richmond.craigslist.org/mcy/3620724685.html

+1. My friend had a DR350 and a DRZ400, and to this day he talks about how much he loved that dr350. He never mentions the DRZ. The one in the link seems a bit overpriced though.

[Dr WhipIt]

Originally Posted by Eddy Alvarez

I wouldn't look too long...it won't last long. Seems like a good deal and you (or Guy) can fix the gearbox in no time. I'm actually surprised that Todd didn't scoop it up already as it's in his backyard.

I've emailed him, asking about the 5th gear slip. It might just need a new clutch. Slipping shows up in top gear first.

Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8

This could be a good bike for you as well. I really like the DR350. Not as fancy as the DRZ400 but simple to own and maintain. I am pretty sure this 98' has the better suspension from the dirt only version. i know the 99 does which was the last one brought to the US. This bike is worth consideration.
http://richmond.craigslist.org/mcy/3620724685.html

Looking for power and minimum weight. Plus that seems a little pricy for a bike that old.

[Dirtmonkey8]

Originally Posted by Dr WhipIt

I've emailed him, asking about the 5th gear slip. It might just need a new clutch. Slipping shows up in top gear first.



Looking for power and minimum weight. Plus that seems a little pricy for a bike that old.

That is overpriced and I am sure he knows it or will find out soon enough. It is in great conditon and has low miles. Power/weight is pretty good on on the 350. Have Jesse mod the can and put a pumper carb on and you will be very happy. I am happy without them but if I had the money... My 90' DR350S has everything removed that is not necessary and it is so light if feels like a mtn bike compared to my DR650.

[Guy Young]

Originally Posted by Dr WhipIt

I've emailed him, asking about the 5th gear slip. It might just need a new clutch. Slipping shows up in top gear first.

And/or adjusted.

I'd try and get clarification of his description of "slipping." Ratcheting sounds, or just engine reving with no increase in forward speed. Former indicates deep internal problems; latter indicates a clutch issue.

.

[Dr WhipIt]

Originally Posted by Guy Young

And/or adjusted.

I'd try and get clarification of his description of "slipping." Ratcheting sounds, or just engine reving with no increase in forward speed. Former indicates deep internal problems; latter indicates a clutch issue.

.

This is cut from the email I sent him. I like your thinking.

"Does it shift into 5th gear then slip, grind, or does it not even get into 5th?

Did the slip start a little, then keep getting worse?"

I'm really getting itchy!!!

[Guy Young]

Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8

IS it just me or did this site get a new and different appearance sometime this morning???

I have new chain and sprockets to install on my DR650 and I went with the rivet type master link. I am wondering if my chain tool is robust enough and correct for pressing the rivet. Can anyone look at this photo and tell me if my tool will work or if I will have to borrow a better one?

To back up a bit, your tool is the type we used quite frequently back when I was working in a bike shop in Lynchburg. Actually (semi) looked for one early on here, but had no luck.

Tools I use today:



I've had the above for a number of years, and they stay with the KLR.... as you can see by their condition. They work well.

Present tool set I keep in the garage:



Did have a problem early on when I damaged one of the push pins used in breaking a chain. My fault because I didn't grind off the rivet heads, but Pit Posse was kind enough to issue me a replacement.

.

[Mbarr]

FYI, 2002 DRZ400E just hit Craigslist (New Kent), should be around $2k or a little less. Not sure why is doesn't have a tail light, but can probably be titled and inspected without too much trouble, as long as there is an existing title (bike should have one). I have a 2003 DRZ400E and love it. Although it's a little heavy, it will do just about anything.

Mike B.

[Michhub]

Originally Posted by Guy Young

...Present tool set I keep in the garage:



Did have a problem early on when I damaged one of the push pins used in breaking a chain. My fault because I didn't grind off the rivet heads..

I have the Motion Pro version of the above...also damaged it as Guy describes before I learned how to use it on a stock, quad staked chain(MP was not kind enough to replace it )....my KTM 990 uses the flared rivet type which is easier...

[Dirtmonkey8]

Thanks, Guy. Yesterday I was looking at buying one of those sets or ordering a clip instead, but Dan has one and is letting me borrow it. Since you are a resident expert, I have another question for you: How can you tell if the bearings in the swingarm and linkages need replacing? Or how often do you replace them. I have ridden through a good bit of water in the past 4.5 years and I don't know if I can jerk on stuff or if I have to pull it apart to find out.

Originally Posted by Guy Young

To back up a bit, your tool is the type we used quite frequently back when I was working in a bike shop in Lynchburg. Actually (semi) looked for one early on here, but had no luck.

Tools I use today:



I've had the above for a number of years, and they stay with the KLR.... as you can see by their condition. They work well.

Present tool set I keep in the garage:



Did have a problem early on when I damaged one of the push pins used in breaking a chain. My fault because I didn't grind off the rivet heads, but Pit Posse was kind enough to issue me a replacement.

.

[ddlewis]

Originally Posted by Michhub

I have the Motion Pro version of the above...also damaged it as Guy describes before I learned how to use it on a stock, quad staked chain(MP was not kind enough to replace it )....my KTM 990 uses the flared rivet type which is easier...

I've only used the chain breaking "feature" a handful of times. I always cut off the worn out chain with grinder, so 90% of the time the tool is just used to peen the rivet on the master link.

The only times I've broken the chain was when i got a good price on a slightly longer than needed one and had to cut it down a few links to fit.

Besides grinding off the rivets - since the pushpin is driven out by a screw inside the larger screw, tighten the larger one flush against the chains sideplate so the pushpin doesn't have to extend very far. Probably everybody does that too.. but just in case.

[Guy Young]

Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8

Thanks, Guy. Yesterday I was looking at buying one of those sets or ordering a clip instead, but Dan has one and is letting me borrow it. Since you are a resident expert, I have another question for you: How can you tell if the bearings in the swingarm and linkages need replacing? Or how often do you replace them. I have ridden through a good bit of water in the past 4.5 years and I don't know if I can jerk on stuff or if I have to pull it apart to find out.

Depends on if they are bushing and/or bearing type.

If bushings, newer bikes also use needle bearings that ride on those bushing; the bushing is the inner race. Since there is no preload involved, you may be able to detect wear by testing for lateral movement, i.e., slop, in the parts where they are being used. The only real way to see what is going on is to pull those sub-assemblies apart. Excess wear (if not detected by movement) will be visible in the bushing as wear marks where the needles have been working on it.

Pre-load types that use tapered roller bears are about the same. If lateral movement is detected, you may be able to take up the slack by readjusting the pre-load, however, if that is needed I would still pull them apart to check for wear marks on the tapered races. Ones with minimal wear and no discernible impressions from the rollers, I would grease up the cat, reassemble, and adjust the preload as specified in the bike's manual.

No easy answer, but more of a judgement call once you assess the wear you might be dealing with.

.

[Guy Young]

Originally Posted by Michhub

I have the Motion Pro version of the above...also damaged it as Guy describes before I learned how to use it on a stock, quad staked chain(MP was not kind enough to replace it )....my KTM 990 uses the flared rivet type which is easier...

LOL!

I love Motion Pro tools, and looked at them before I ordered the one from Pit Posse. Musta been in a "frugal state-of-mind" day and I opted for the low-priced spread..... mainly because I knew I would be mainly dealing with the dimpled-pin type straight off. The heavier quad-staked tool with their special anvils were through the roof, so I opted out.

Other than my initial "oops," this one has worked well for the number of chains I have had to stake their pins with.

.

[DirtDoctor]

I'm in for the RTE.

[Guy Young]

Originally Posted by DirtDoctor

I'm in for the RTE.

On another note, finally dragged out the power washer to hose down the KLR. All the salt and crap we rode through during the Black Ice Ride was starting to show its presence. There's probably still some Montana mud stuffed up in there somewhere, but we'll leave it in place as the bike's "Red Badge of Courage."

.

[pplassm]

I am another fan of the Dr350. They are great bikes.