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Old 10-26-2011, 01:50 PM   #12451
roger123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgiacobbe;
I'm also kind of scratching my head about how to sync the throttle bodies. Getting to them with the tank on just looks impossible.
If you have an '07 or later you need the Suzuki scan tool. Nice job on the valve adjust, I need to do mine.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:33 PM   #12452
MAN OF BLUES
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgiacobbe View Post
ICalled it quits yesterday when I had finished measuring the valve clearance on the rear cylinder and it was obvious I needed to adjust the exhaust valves.

Started back up today after work and pulled the exhaust cam and swapped for the next size down shims on both exhaust valves. Replaced the cam, rotated the engine a couple rotations and checked again. Right at the loose end of the range so that one is good.
Re-assembled the cam/ valve cover and other various tidbits that I removed to access the rear cylinder then proceeded to loosen the radiator and front valve cover. Rotated the engine to the correct position to measure the front valves. Both intakes were right in the middle of the range with both exhaust right at the tight end of the spec. Tomorrow I'll replace the exhaust shims with the next smaller size. Hopefully I can get it done without having to pull the radiator. I hate anti-freeze.

I will hopefully have it all back together Thursday or if not, I was awarded Friday off for all the work I did in Chicago last week. I'm also kind of scratching my head about how to sync the throttle bodies. Getting to them with the tank on just looks impossible.

Not sure if you did this by the explanation, but when you are doing shim under bucket like yours (and also like my C14 that has 16 of them.....) you should pull both the covers off at the same time, measure the clearances and record them prior to pulling the cams to see what shims are there, then pull the cams and record the existing shims. You then calculate the desired clearances and record what shims you need to replace. This is called "mapping the shims). While you are doing this, Also Mic the thickness of the heads on the buckets...(for goosd reason, hold on). With this information, you can now see what existing shims can be swapped into different positions to save buying new shims that you already have, also note simply switching buckets on some shims can save a shim switch, or bring them closer to the desired spec. It takes a bit of time I know, but the information gleaaned is critical, and needs to be recorded and saved. The next time you go to adjust them, all you need to know is the clearance then, and with the map, you can predict what exact shim is needed (not like the first time where you have to remove each and every one to record the number/thickness...that's a time saaving step already done if recorded)

if it ain't buttoned up yet, I highly suggest you pull the cams and record them all NOW, you will be thankfull later...
as for doing the synch, while you have it down this far, install lengths of rubber tubing onto the synch ports, and route them out to one side. plug them there, and they will be accessable for the synch from now on.

Little tidbits of knowledge from someone that owns a C14, and that same job is twice as involved....so any time savers are worth doing first go round...good luck.
I also HIGHLY recommend the Twin-Max synch tool for ALL multi cylinder bikes...it is superior to any currently available tool today, and as all multi cylinder bikes still require balancing "pairs" it works on them all in that regard...
google and find the twin Max tool....they have them at Morton's....
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:37 PM   #12453
RoccoVa
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Dl650 synch

jgiacobbe: thanks for the post on the valve work, I too am ready to do mine and am wondering about the synch. Please keep us updated.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:54 PM   #12454
biker128pedal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger123 View Post
If you have an '07 or later you need the Suzuki scan tool. Nice job on the valve adjust, I need to do mine.
I just had to adjust the rear screw on my 09. They have stayed in sync for 20k miles.

Valve clearance good so fare for 27k miles. I don't think I dodge that bullet next time.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:26 PM   #12455
Boon Booni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger123 View Post
If you have an '07 or later you need the Suzuki scan tool. Nice job on the valve adjust, I need to do mine.
Need is a bit strong. I've got the scan tool and have done the throttle body sync without using the tool to see what the results look like. Nearly the same. I was within 5 steps of the spec'd idle step. The trick is to adjust both the front and rear screws equally.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jgiacobbe View Post
I'm also kind of scratching my head about how to sync the throttle bodies. Getting to them with the tank on just looks impossible.
Getting at the rear is easy, just lift the tank on its prop then take a screwdriver bit and reach up and adjust. The front one takes some finagaling. I use a universal swivel on a looong extension
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:51 PM   #12456
biker128pedal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boon Booni View Post
Getting at the rear is easy, just lift the tank on its prop then take a screwdriver bit and reach up and adjust. The front one takes some finagaling. I use a universal swivel on a looong extension
The front one is tough to get to. I did turn each one about 1/16 turn at a time until the F and R were equal.

For an 07 it may be time for the second coolant change. It only take 2 quarts not a gallon. The manual is incorrect for quarts but correct for liters.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:15 PM   #12457
jgiacobbe
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It actually runs

I managed to finish the valve adjustment this evening. I can't find any extra pieces and it runs.

MOB, on opening both valve covers at once, to measure shims, I skipped that by getting a bunch of shims from hotcams for $31. Has 5 of each size 1.50 to 1.75.

This was my first adjustment on this bike at 22500 miles. Only 7500 miles overdue. I did not need to adjust any of the intake valves as they were all pretty much dead center of the allowable range. All the exhaust valves where right at the tight end of the allowable range so I ended up going one shim smaller on all of them to put them at the loose end of the range. Both rear shims were marked 1.82 and the fronts were marked 1.62 and 1.72. My caliper measured them as being pretty close to that. The hot cams shims though did seem to run slightly smaller than what they were marked. This is probably more of a result of me buying my calipers at Lowe's than their manufacturing process.

I was able to adjust the valves on the front without removing the radiator. I was happy about that as I hate dealing with antifreeze. The actual adjustment went pretty quick on the front after using a strap to hold the radiator up out of the way.

I spent much more time this evening replacing the plastic and generally going back over everything making sure I didn't forget anything. I did remove the rear cover again because I got paranoid that I had possibly jumped a tooth on the exhaust cam(I hadn't).

I have not bothered to do a throttle body sync as the bike seemed to be running pretty good and settled to what seemed a nice low idle (I didn't have the dash on at the time so this was just by ear). I did find where the vacuum nipples are located and that I can reach them without removing the tank. I just need to actually locate the adjustment screws if I want to proceed. Not sure why I would need a scan tool, wouldn't this be very similar to balancing the butterflys on the little ninja 250 other than there are adjustment screws on each TB?

The only thing odd I noticed after getting it all back together is that my neutral indicator light isn't working. The neutral sensor is working because with the side stand down, the fuel pump would turn on when I put it in neutral. It was 10 when I finished so I have not taken it for a test ride yet.

Overall I'd say I put in 8 hours or so of work. Having done it once now, I figure it could be done in a somewhat long day, provided you have extra shims and don't mess up anything else while you are in there. It is important to have a good selection of various small ratchets, sockets and allen wrenches though when attempting this as there are so many tight spots where if you don't have just the right tool, you can't get on the fastener.

Hope that maybe this inspires some of the other procrastinators on adjusting the dl650 valves.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:17 PM   #12458
jgiacobbe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADSTROM View Post
Is anybody going to Willville this weekend besides Tommyhof and I ??????




October 28-31, 2011

BOO STEW Closing Weekend!
Make that one last trip to the mountains before Willville closes for the season. Join us for a pot of Beef Stew and Halloween decorations.




Willville Motorcycle Camp
1510 Jeb Stuart Highway (Route 58)
Meadows of Dan, Virginia 24120
Exit Route 58 West off the Blue Ridge Parkway
(Mile Marker 177.7)
Route 58 West 3/4 of a mile on the left
(1/2 Mile past the RV Campground)
(276)952-CAMP
or email us at our NEW address
willville@centurylink.net

Happy Trails!
W.B.



Camper relaxing by the nightly community campfire.


I'm definitely planning on some riding this weekend but not sure about making it an overnight trip. I think my wife has been making some plans since I was out of town most of last week and I've been in the garage at my mother's house most of this week.

jgiacobbe screwed with this post 10-26-2011 at 08:18 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 10-27-2011, 04:46 AM   #12459
biker128pedal
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Wee Throttle Body Screws

Here are a couple of pictures.

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Old 10-27-2011, 04:51 AM   #12460
jgiacobbe
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Originally Posted by biker128pedal View Post
Here are a couple of pictures.

Thanks, I might have to see what it will take to reach them.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:22 AM   #12461
biker128pedal
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A very short small flat blade screw driver. I have a carb tool screw driver and it works OK. I may have to make something next time. Also I added sections of vacuum hose so I can check without reaching in to put off the tinnie tiny caps every time. You will see.

Plus I want to add cruise control for my long commute and will need the vacuum line. I have more pictures if you need them. There are more over in Stromtrooper and vstrom.info.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:42 AM   #12462
skychs
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Location: Glen Allen Va (N. Richmond)
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Wed Ride

Hey Jeremy, Eddy, Mickey and .....
Yesterday Mark and I headed back over to Mount Pleasant National Scenic Area where we experience the infamous "Eddy Adventure". We went in at the rest area just east of the Parkway on 60. We bumped our way around the mountains and eventually popped out onto Alhambra crossing over the Appalachian Trail several times along the way. The terrain was a little different this time because of all the leaves but I can tell you the rocks were still there. Mark did a great job (no dirt naps) on his Wee-Strom and new Anakee 2 tires. We rode just over 340 miles and had lunch at Gerties in Vesuvius.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:57 AM   #12463
kwn306
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Quote:
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Hey Kurt, Brenda here. Picked up a silver '06.
Ahhhh, the thumper, I looked that over, it's a nice bike. Sue's 2009 sold, a young couple was drooling all over it during the open house, not sure if they purchased it or someone else, it is a very nice bike. Good luck with your new steed, look forward to seeing you out on the road.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:09 AM   #12464
Guy Young
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biker128pedal View Post
A very short small flat blade screw driver. I have a carb tool screw driver and it works OK. I may have to make something next time. Also I added sections of vacuum hose so I can check without reaching in to put off the tinnie tiny caps every time. You will see.

Plus I want to add cruise control for my long commute and will need the vacuum line. I have more pictures if you need them. There are more over in Stromtrooper and vstrom.info.
What vacuum-operated cruise control are you considering?

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Old 10-27-2011, 07:01 AM   #12465
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