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Old 12-21-2012, 10:06 AM   #4021
Roadracer_Al
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Well done, lad!
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When they say Harleys are for 1%ers, I don't think they mean guys who sell crank and get in bar fights any more.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:12 PM   #4022
Signal
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My son (ripe age of 14) picked this out for my dad's christmas-

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/KA5...geable-Handles#

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Old 12-21-2012, 02:43 PM   #4023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithy View Post
The steel is my own, made in the old fashion using cementation of carbon into thin strips of wrought iron (to preserve that slaggy character, but up the carbon content) and welding those strips into what is commonly referred to as "shear steel". I left it a fairly low layer count so there's lots of dramatic boundary layer action, and the quench line shows up well too. I etched it with ferric chloride, cleaned, and waxed it.

It's not high-performance, but it's beautiful and wicked sharp.
Appearance is period correct indeed. Looks as if it was just discovered! Excellent work. How does the handle hold the blade? The original would have been the type owned by a civilian official or by a solider?
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:07 PM   #4024
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At long last

Santa came a little early!

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Old 12-21-2012, 04:15 PM   #4025
Smithy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Appearance is period correct indeed. Looks as if it was just discovered! Excellent work. How does the handle hold the blade? The original would have been the type owned by a civilian official or by a solider?
It's a thin hidden tang, in a drilled hole, secured with epoxy and disguised with cutler's resin.

A Parazonium, by definition, was an award for valor within the Legions... so a military reward. There are many forms, but the distinguishing element is the eagle's head, included somewhere near the pommel of the knife. Some are done in shallow relief, this was done in full 3-d mimicking the original I studied in the British Museum.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:15 PM   #4026
tslewisz
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Santa came a little early!

You finally got your Golok! Merry Christmas.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:10 PM   #4027
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Not really a knife but a cool pic anyhow. A matching katana and wakizashi pair by Cheness Cutlery:

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Old 12-21-2012, 11:40 PM   #4028
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Originally Posted by Smithy View Post
Finished my Parazonium in the nick of time.

Original:



My attempt at re-creation. I flipped the aging, it's an inverse of the original, whose blade was all but gone, but the grip is near pristine. My blade is fantastic, and the grip looks beat up and old. To make both in really good shape would miss the sense of antiquity that was desired by the client.



Great Job!!! Question though, what is the significance of the number on the sheath?

Thanks,

B.
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:57 AM   #4029
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Pissed

Quote:
Originally Posted by GP640 View Post
They're illegal here too.
"Any knife that opens by spring, lever or centrifugal force...." Falls into the same category as a machine gun here.
same here, but you can add any fixed blade, any locking folder and anything over 3" to the list.
cant have anything sharp in case a robber gets hurt and it costs the gov a lot in legal aid for him to sue you.

politics, sorry guys................
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:25 AM   #4030
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Originally Posted by Boughan View Post
Great Job!!! Question though, what is the significance of the number on the sheath?

Thanks,

B.
That's not a number, that's an acronym, Manui Dat Cognito Vires, loosely translates to "Knowledge Gives Strength To The Arm" (lit. "Hand knowledge gives strength").
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:24 AM   #4031
Roadracer_Al
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Originally Posted by davsato View Post
same here, but you can add any fixed blade, any locking folder and anything over 3" to the list.
cant have anything sharp in case a robber gets hurt and it costs the gov a lot in legal aid for him to sue you.

politics, sorry guys................
In that case, you just gotta go all "Shawn Of The Dead" on'm.

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When they say Harleys are for 1%ers, I don't think they mean guys who sell crank and get in bar fights any more.
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:42 PM   #4032
davsato
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Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
In that case, you just gotta go all "Shawn Of The Dead" on'm.

haha yeah cool i got a few of those laying around, and no questions asked why i would have them either!

but i'd have to hide the leatherman
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:09 PM   #4033
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I'm getting sick of black handled knives so these Kershaw Blurs push the right buttons:



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Old 12-22-2012, 04:39 PM   #4034
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Advice on sharpening

Back in the mid-eighties a customer of mine made a custom knife for me as a gift for helping him. I was blown away as it is really a nice piece of work. I really never used it but kept it hidden away. About a year ago I got it out and took it to a sports shop for a top sharpening job. The shop had a sign up and I assumed it would run between 20 and 30 dollars. I handed it to a kid at the counter and he left with it and returned a few minutes later. Handed me the knife and said "That will be 5 dollars". I looked at the edge and asked the kid " what did you do , run it through a kitchen sharpening deal" He said ya. Well its time to have it done right. What do you guys suggest?
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:51 PM   #4035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dudley View Post
Back in the mid-eighties a customer of mine made a custom knife for me as a gift for helping him. I was blown away as it is really a nice piece of work. I really never used it but kept it hidden away. About a year ago I got it out and took it to a sports shop for a top sharpening job. The shop had a sign up and I assumed it would run between 20 and 30 dollars. I handed it to a kid at the counter and he left with it and returned a few minutes later. Handed me the knife and said "That will be 5 dollars". I looked at the edge and asked the kid " what did you do , run it through a kitchen sharpening deal" He said ya. Well its time to have it done right. What do you guys suggest?
Dudley
My shop is set up for my process, which I've detailed here before, but here's the short version - vertical belt grinder, using the highest grit I can get away with to start. If it's a mild job with just a few flat spots, 1000 is fine. Others which have been down the garbage disposal need to start at 400 to remove enough material gently, without ruining the heat treatment, and re-establish the geometry. I always work edge-up so I can clearly see what I'm doing, and use little pressure against the belt. Once I establish a consistent geometry along the edge at 1000 grit, it's time to either strop or buff. Both provide a razor-edge, since I think polishing beyond that 1000 tooth is key to having a blade that really slices through material, rather than tears at it with the micro-serrations left by any abrasive. I'm finding using a leather belt on the grinder gives me a more subtle, but durable, sharp edge than the buffer did. It's taking some getting used to but I like it, and I'm using the same compound in both applications.

Many have suggested a Lansky system for home use, but you need to first establish a clean edge, and then just hone it from time to time, without removing excessive material needlessly.

Good luck!
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