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Old 06-09-2013, 03:00 PM   #631
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shov3BR View Post
Dielectric grease is a better choice than Vaseline for keeping contacts clean. You don't need thick, you need a thin film for corrosion protection.
Yep, but to stop/reduce vibration, thicker is better.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:01 PM   #632
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Where does one get low-discharged rechargeables? I've a stock of lithiums from Sam's Club ... $20 pack.

As for seeing the screen, I don't use it for navigating so much, mostly for keeping track of where I've been lost.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:18 PM   #633
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So I calculate that by using lithiums, I'll need to change battery pairs 90 times to = the add'l $300 or more over the cost of a $200 Oregon for 1 Montana 650. By then, Garmin may have the bugs worked out of the Montana and I'll get one.
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:55 PM   #634
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Where does one get low-discharged rechargeables?
They are becoming more common. They are availabe at Walmart and other stores. They are usually called precharged Nimh. The best known are Sanyo Eneloop. Duracell and Kodak makes some as well as some other off brands. They are great because you don't always have to charge them before you use them.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:16 PM   #635
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Thanks for that tip! I'll look for them when my 12 pack of lithiums is done.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:21 PM   #636
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[QUOTE=Shov3BR;21599632][*]
Quote:
"...$10 power supply is just not good system design unless a fault protector is installed between power supply and load which no one offers." Not true.

Most Generic USB power ports, even the cheapo ones, use switching regulators. I've never seen a switching IC (the heart of the circuit) that doesn't have built in thermal and over-current protection. That's not to say that they don't exist, it's just that we have looked at dozens for our designs and all have built in protection. -Shov
Excellent summery of various connectors and having warrantee data is the best of all. Well worth 2 cents. I think the discussion only related to the Mini USB used on GPS units.

Q: Which part is "not true"?

I think you are talking about my comment about a fault protector. Over current is not the problem, over voltage is. I would put a Zener across output that was just above the max tolerance of the regulator and below the max input voltage of the load. That is a very tight window and may not be possible.

I will stand by my analysis that having an external voltage reducing power supply between a battery and a load with no over voltage protection is a very poor system design compared to having the power supply inside the load device.

I am a very concretive engineer as I design power systems for manned space craft. This design would never fly without much more sophisticated fault protection.

Q: Do all the cheap cigarette lighter USB power supplies really have a switching regulators? It is very hard to believe that the increased efficiency of a switcher over a series reg is worth the cost.

Q: If they are switchers, I assume they are simple Buck converters with just a pass switch, fly back diode and choke (no transformer). If it is a Buck, many failure modes give you 12 V out (GPS toast). It they use classic transformer inverter, very few failures will result in 12 V out but seems way too expensive for consumer product.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:25 PM   #637
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Yep, but to stop/reduce vibration, thicker is better.
So Dialetcric grease on the contacts and Vasaline or wheel bearing grease on the sides! I still like black tape better for more fricition.
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:25 AM   #638
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Originally Posted by Countdown View Post
So Dialetcric grease on the contacts and Vasaline or wheel bearing grease on the sides! I still like black tape better for more fricition.
But tape puts pressure on the case and case seals...
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:56 PM   #639
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But tape puts pressure on the case and case seals...
Good point, but never saw a leaker.
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:53 AM   #640
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Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
After you create your route in Basecamp, make sure you change your activity type to "Direct", then send the route to the gps. Your 300 behaves no differently than any other current Garmin gps; the whole Oregon series, Dakota, 62/78, Montana and Colorado all recalculate routes unless you change the activity to Direct before sending it.

Also, if you use the Direct activity type then once the route is on the gps, you are able to edit it, and insert/delete waypoints, reverse the route, none of which is possible if you use other activity types.
Thanks very much for this pointer, Emmbeedee. I haven't seen a single reference to activity type settings anywhere during my research.

My biggest frustration with the GPS is the lack of complete documentation/obscurity of the interface (esp given the age of the technology). I've seen some bad user interfaces and docs in my day, working in IT, but we rarely see a product with such mature technology.

Thanks again!
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:20 AM   #641
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Can't delete track name ...

Oregon 450

In Track Manager, one track -- or at least its name -- won't go away. It doesn't respond when I click to show on the map, change the name, etc. Pressing "Delete" gets no response. "Change name" gets no response. Pressing any of the track options elicits no response. Removing the micro SD card makes no difference. Turning on and off makes no difference. The name just sits there, taunting me.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:27 PM   #642
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Oregon 450 In Track Manager, one track -- or at least its name -- won't go away. Pressing "Delete" gets no response. "Change name" gets no response. Pressing any of the track options elicits no response. Removing the micro SD card makes no difference.
Thoughts?
First question, what is name?

Try looking at Oregon memeory from PC with Explore and deleting the file with that name.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:41 PM   #643
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Awesome, C'down!

Tried that path, but it didn't get me there. BUT! Your reference to the Oregon's memory lit the 15w bulb in my 70s liberal-arts brain, and led me to My Computer/Garmin K drive/GPX folder ... and there it was. So ... the cure was to access the Oregon's internal memory as the K-drive showing in My Computer, then get into the GPX folder, select, delete.

You're the best!
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:54 PM   #644
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byways and countdown sittin' in a tree.

sorry, I had to.




When deleting files always back them up first. Instead of just deleting them cut and paste them in a separate folder on your hard drive just in case things go south on the unit and you've got to restore the 'deleted' file.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:33 PM   #645
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Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
Of course that works but you have to zoom or move the screen again to the previous spot. Sometimes I accidentally touch the screen and drop a pin and wish that I could remove it without going back.
Its been a while since this was first posted, but any way to remove a pin without hitting the back arrow and getting bumped back?
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